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Shrimp>Wife,
in Shrimp Tank Setup
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By Josh16622
Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.
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By Zebra
Hello,
So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
So I made this:
The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.
A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.
The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system.
My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
enjoy.
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By Zebra
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
?
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Cheers
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
View full article
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
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Must Read SKF Articles
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Posts
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By Shawn Lu · Posted
About 3-4 weeks. It depends on your quality of water and the iodine of activated carbon. -
By jayc · Posted
Keep doing this, and feeding it the medicated food. If the shrimp doesn't eat the food within a day, remove it and feed new medicated food again the next day. You sir, are a good candidate for an RO filter. Your shrimp are not going to like the hard water in the long term. -
By alkemist · Posted
The shrimp is in a separate container, but it's been in there for a week or so now. I see it picking off the air stone and the sides of the tub. There is shrimp poop in the container, so it is eating, just not the food I give it. I suck out the detritus and excess food every couple of days and do small water change daily. At first I used tank water, since I don't run R/O. I use a combination of hard tap water with a little water ran through my water softener (I know it's a bit taboo to do). I don't know an exactly how to re-mineralize it to keep the shrimp from going into shock if I used straight clean tap water. I am starting to slowly remove the water from the tub and mixing it with direct tap water with the water softener on by-pass, so hopefully it can acclimate to full clean tap water. With the shrimp feeding, should I try to remove all visible signs of food and fast it for a couple days and then try again? -
By jayc · Posted
Is the shrimp still in the main tank? Or have you moved it into a separate container? There should be no biofilm in a new container, and it should be hungry to want to eat the medicated algae wafer. It won't go away without treatment. The bacteria is not just on the shell (carapace), so moulting won't get rid of the bacteria. -
By alkemist · Posted
I've tried to feed the shrimp food soaked in the oregano oil mixture (1 drop of oregano and 5 ml of water since it's 86% carvacrol). The shrimp seems to hate the taste of any food I put in there with the mixture. It goes off and tries to feed on anything but the medicated food. I don't have any other food in the tub and took all the floaters out but seems to be feeding on naturally growing biofilm now.. I'm not sure if I am seeing any results. Should the reddish brown spots go away on it's own or does the shrimp have to molt it off? I've noticed it's been scratching itself a lot.
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