Stainless Steel Immersion Chiller
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Shrimp>Wife, in Shrimp Tank Setup
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By Zebra
Hello,
So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
So I made this:
The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.
A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.
The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system.
My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
enjoy.
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By Zebra
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
?
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Cheers
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
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By CNgo2006
These can be made to fit any size tubing at the fraction of the cost of what is sold and is so very easy to make. So lets get started!
Note: It is recommended that you use protective goggles and gloves, as frayed mesh wires can get pretty sharp.
Here is what you will need to make the filter guard:
Stainless Steel Mesh sheet hole size #30 (can be purchased at the mesh company online, I got the A3 size sheet which is enough for a lot of guards!) Tin snips Heat Shrink (depending on the size of your tube get the heat shrink at least 5mm bigger, can be purchased eBay) Heat source (Lighter, hair dryer, heat gun, etc) A tube of the size required Pencil, marker Ruler Cable ties Craft knife
Steps
Prepare cable ties as you will need both hands free
Cut mesh sheet to size depending on how long you want the guard and how thin the tube is (I cut mine 10cmx10cm) and wrap tightly around the tube, secure tightly with cable ties
Cut another piece of mesh depending on the width of the mesh wrapped around tube (mine was 18mm), cut a square piece (18x18mm), place on end of mesh and bend corners over
Cut a bit of heat shrink (mine was 2cm) and place over the mesh making sure the piece of mesh covering the end stays in place, leave about 0.5cm above.
Using the heat source you are using (I just used a lighter) and heat the heat shrink until it shrinks tightly around the mesh (make sure you don't heat the same place for too long as it will melt! Just quickly run the flame over the shrink) and then quickly push the end down on a flat surface for a minute.
The outcome should be something like this (you can use the craft knife to make the opening bigger if you wish)
Now for the other end, repeat the steps above but shove the tube in instead. Leave for a minute or so.
Remove the tube and cut the cable ties, cut a thin bit of heat shrink to place in middle of guard for extra support, heat it until tight. And there you have it, your DIY filter guard.
For a fraction of the cost you can make all the filter guards needed, can be HOB, canister, overflow pipe, etc. for your 20 shrimp tanks!
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By kms · Posted
As jayc has mention, do check if you are allowed to import them into your country, I think Australia is ok as long as you applied for the paper work to import them, but do check first. But this option are for those who are after good quality shrimp with a guaranteed of pure bloodline. You can contact them through this email, they accept Paypal with a addition 7.5% on top, their Paypal account email is different, but email them first for relevant detail as they may differ from mine. YU CRS CENTER CORP. <contact@yu-crscenter.com> For me they cost with shipping and Paypal fee, its still cheaper them in Hong Kong. I will have to delay this purchase, ADA and the CALs Black Earth Premium substrate are limited now, most places does not have stock, and no delivery date. -
By ShrimpNewb · Posted
See, and I thought you meant weak solutions were just as susceptible. So I should pre-mix my 7 gallon tank when I get the RO water and it will last the 4 weeks or so that I use it to change water just fine. That's what I was after. Apparently the Salty Bee guys think the same. Makes sense. -
By jayc · Posted
I was talking about letting pure RO water sit around for too long unused. Try not to do it.
RO water that has been remineralised is different. -
By jayc · Posted
Oops did I mix them around? <edit> - I did mix the names around. Fix it now in my post above. -
By DKC · Posted
Ok then. Will add more plants to try and reduce nitrates. Thanks Simon and JayC for the pointers and hints. I think the Dino Spit is the Glutaraldehyde and the Dino Pee has the macro and micronutrients. I will leave off the Glutaraldehyde and reduce the dose of the Pee to one third. I am pretty careful with the dosing. Good news is that there are at least two RCS females still in the tank and looking well. Maybe they went and hid and moulded after the big water change? The surviving DAE are all looking well. Anyway will take all your advice on board and do smaller water changes and work out a dripper system.
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