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Stainless Steel Immersion Chiller
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Shrimp>Wife, in Shrimp Tank Setup
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By Zebra
Hello,
So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
So I made this:
The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.
A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.
The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system.
My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
enjoy.
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By Zebra
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
?
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Cheers
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
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By CNgo2006
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
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By CNgo2006
These can be made to fit any size tubing at the fraction of the cost of what is sold and is so very easy to make. So lets get started!
Note: It is recommended that you use protective goggles and gloves, as frayed mesh wires can get pretty sharp.
Here is what you will need to make the filter guard:
Stainless Steel Mesh sheet hole size #30 (can be purchased at the mesh company online, I got the A3 size sheet which is enough for a lot of guards!) Tin snips Heat Shrink (depending on the size of your tube get the heat shrink at least 5mm bigger, can be purchased eBay) Heat source (Lighter, hair dryer, heat gun, etc) A tube of the size required Pencil, marker Ruler Cable ties Craft knife
Steps
Prepare cable ties as you will need both hands free
Cut mesh sheet to size depending on how long you want the guard and how thin the tube is (I cut mine 10cmx10cm) and wrap tightly around the tube, secure tightly with cable ties
Cut another piece of mesh depending on the width of the mesh wrapped around tube (mine was 18mm), cut a square piece (18x18mm), place on end of mesh and bend corners over
Cut a bit of heat shrink (mine was 2cm) and place over the mesh making sure the piece of mesh covering the end stays in place, leave about 0.5cm above.
Using the heat source you are using (I just used a lighter) and heat the heat shrink until it shrinks tightly around the mesh (make sure you don't heat the same place for too long as it will melt! Just quickly run the flame over the shrink) and then quickly push the end down on a flat surface for a minute.
The outcome should be something like this (you can use the craft knife to make the opening bigger if you wish)
Now for the other end, repeat the steps above but shove the tube in instead. Leave for a minute or so.
Remove the tube and cut the cable ties, cut a thin bit of heat shrink to place in middle of guard for extra support, heat it until tight. And there you have it, your DIY filter guard.
For a fraction of the cost you can make all the filter guards needed, can be HOB, canister, overflow pipe, etc. for your 20 shrimp tanks!
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Posts
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By Crabclaw · Posted
My vote is for Endlers. Mine are the most fascinating (from a fish lovers point of view here) and cute fish in my tank, but I reckon they would be perfect for you, as mine are constantly picking on stuff! They’re the only fish who eat my dreaded snail eggs (on the glass and other surfaces) which I love! Plus you don’t need heaps. Males are small if you just want them for this. And you will be able to get them anywhere. I have a school of 20 embers in my tank, but I rarely see them hunting in any manner, much less on surfaces. -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
In case it helps I have looked up the figures of the 2 tanks with cherry shrimp in them and they are as follows, Main tank PH7,, GH5, KH2, TDS 225 (mixed water) Betta tank PH7.5, GH6, KH3, TDS 222 (tap water + mineraliser) They are fairly similar to each other but neither is really in the 'IDEAL' recommendation range of CHERRY shrimp ,so it confirms that cherry shrimp are more adaptable and can thrive even outside those 'IDEAL' parameters? I suppose neither are that far out but it just shows there is a bit less necessity to get everything 100%, though if you aim for perfect you will probably get better results all round? Simon -
By jayc · Posted
Oh, if you are planning on keeping Cherry shrimp aim for 6-8GH as Simon said above. -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
Do you know what the water parameters are of this tank? Is the new male old enough to breed, assume it is as they only need to be 3 months I think but is that a possibility? Simon -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
The usual GH range for Cherry shrimp is 6-8 and with the 1 part tap, 3 parts RO water mix you will be 50% there for G|H and just under 4 for KH! There are 2 products, one is GH+ and one is GH/KH+ so you need to get the right one for whichever route you plan to go, all RO water would be GH/KH+, mixed water would be GH+! IF you are planning the mixed route then that would be an easy adjustment you can do now by taking 25% water out and replacing with dechlorinated tap water, then adjust with the GH+ when you get it? This is the one I use, it is so simple as it is a liquid and even calculating is easy as each drop = +1gh (about 20ish TDS) / litre: https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/shrimp-king/803-shrimp-king-mineral-fluid-double-gh-4001615061413.html If you want to get this I have just done a dummy test on the website and you get delivery on it as long as it is one item, which is normal, but I thought you may need to pay as it is a bulky item to send? The soil should have lots of what the plants need I would have thought and the poop from the snails/shrimp must be some fertiliser? As JayC says you could leave the CO2 running for now as there are no shrimps, but I would probably turn it off and stop using fertiliser and just keep a close eye on the plants at this stage, after all you can start using them again IF the plants start looking unhealthy, but neither may be needed and it is better to know from the start and will make life easier long term. As I say I have never used either and my plants grow fantastic, in fact I wish they would grow slower, doh! Simon
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