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  2. Thanks. It would help determine if there are any signs of disease on them. In all the time I have kept shrimp, and researching shrimp diseases, I have not actually seen shrimp loosing legs in a shrimp only tank. However, it can be a possibility. If they have a particularly difficult time at moulting, and can rip off their legs during the moulting process. The good news is that shrimp can regrow legs, after moulting a couple of times. The hard part is keeping them healthy long enough till their next moult. What concerns me is that it is happening to more than one. Let's go back to water parameters. Can you list all the parameters you can? Water hardness, and calcium is of particular concern to me. Are you adding any form of calcium to the tank?
  3. Today
  4. No fish, just one snail and hard to do macro shots on my old phone. Plus i have no breeder box.. I'll try to see what I can do and get better ones in the morning.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Do you have fish? We need a Macro shot of the shrimp please. Can't see anything with a zoomed in, with the shrimps on a black background. Put them in a breeder box to photograph them easier.
  7. As my title states, The last few days my cherries have lost some of their legs and one died this morning. Not sure whats going on and my google-fu hasn't turned up anything. Hope you guys can point me in the right direction. I upgraded to a 10 gal from a 2 gal about 3 weeks ago with no problems. I cycled the tank for about 2 weeks before and all are in line. Here are some pictures:
  8. jswljones

    Welcome jswljones

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes jswljones. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin Hi everyone! From OC, CA
  9. TaVinci

    Welcome TaVinci

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes TaVinci. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  10. Hedlesschkn

    Welcome Hedlesschkn

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Hedlesschkn. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  11. Hello, Indeed, there shall be a pH variation depending on the plants that use/release CO2. However, 0.2 is comparable to the measurement error of a pH pen (i bought 2 and average the measures, and generally repeat the measuring 2-3 times if i need something more accurate). Concerning the akadama, the one i bough is Akadama Ibaki, and i think that it is the brand of it, the model is "double hard line". All technical soils will be "used up" at some point, and have to be replaced to get the buffering effect. However, the largest the effect on the water, the faster it will use the chemicals... For the same soil, if you're starting from 8.5 pH water to go to 6, it will probably use faster. In my case, my tap water is pH 7, KH 0 and GH 0, and i get to 6.5 pH, so i expect it to last a long time. If you want to do smaller doses of technical soil to lower "just a little" , i wonder if akadama will be strong enough for that? Or maybe it would simply take a long time to buffer the water to the final value... Anyway, in my case, the main goal is to keep shrimps. Some tanks are scaped, but if the soil "runs out", i'll probably either keep the scape with a population that likes the default water parameters, or redo the tank. But i have 11 tanks so i can move populations around i guess; if you only have this tank i don't know how to proceed... One thing i have noted though : Seyru stone increases the PH to aproximately 8 (again from near RO water parameters : GH/KH at 0, pH 7, TDS at 40), and the effect lasts extremely long (i have tanks with seyru stone that are years old, still the same parameters), so perhaps if we could find a rock that produces acidic water, it would create a long lasting buffer... With the large rock it takes more time than with technical soil to reach the final value, but basically lasts forever...
  12. So I noticed with my pH meter that when the lights are on, it goes to 7.4, and when the lights are off, it goes to 7.2. I guess this must be due to the CO2 levels in the water, even though I don't inject CO2. I read a little about akadama, and it seems that different brands result in different pH. But what is the chemical that does the actual buffering? I wouldn't want to put it in my tank if it is something that runs out, but maybe put it in one of my filters as a form of media that is easy to replace.
  13. sdlTBfanUK

    Replacing substrate

    Thanks again JayC for your time. I think I understand it a bit better. My tank was only set up about 6 months ago so hopefully it will be a while yet before I need to do a substrate change! If I have understood, with the JBL (I have a spare bag anyway) I would do the first 2 weeks in a bucket in the bathroom or kitchen to save lugging buckets of water around the house with changing the water every third day (as per manufacturer instructions) to clear the mineral build up they mention. Then I can change it in the actual shrimp tank and cross my fingers.............. I do have a spare heater and pump (unless I get a Betta for the spare small tank) which I could put in the bucket (and use dirty fish tank water) if it were in the kitchen so guess that would be the way to go (no plugs in bathrooms in uk) but as you said that is basically the same as setting up a tank I guess. That should then clear the mineral build up (per manufacturer instructions) and seed the substrate with some bacteria ready to go. Thanks again JayC I feel much clearer/confident about it now, though I would appreciate you letting me know if you think I haven't grasped it correctly. Simon
  14. Hello! I used ada amazonia, and it was much too strong to my liking, i end up with 5-5.5 ph from 0KH water. However, with Akadama double hard line, i get 6.5 pH. This is suitable for Neocaridina Davidi (i have multiple colonies with those settings), tigers (multiple colonies as well), and it is in the high range for crystal reds, taiwan bees, etc (from what i read, it should be in 5.5-6.5 pH). As for the minimal kH possible, it depends on what is in your tank. If you don't have many things that can swing the pH, it should not move much once it's settled at the value the soil will set...
  15. Last week
  16. jayc

    Replacing substrate

    Don't think like that. It's never a bother. If you add tank water or squeeze the filter media/sponge into the bucket of new substrate, it will seed the new substrate with bacteria. But the bacteria won't last long with, unless there is a source of ammonia (ammonia is the bacteria's food source), as well as warmth and oxygen. This tread was started because some planted substrates (eg ADA Amazonia, etc) have ammonia. And you don't want to add it directly into the tank. So treating it in a bucket to remove ammonia by multiple rinsing cycles was the idea. So the bacteria, could survive and multiply in a bucket with dirty tank water and some warmth (Summer seasons would be ok). So that is a possible way of treating new substrate outside the tank. Do this for a couple of weeks, and you should be able to add it slowly into an existing tank. JBL soils, however do not have ammonia in it, so rinsing then adding it straight into the tank is fine. Of course there are some planted substrates that release it's ammonia much slower than ADA Amazonia, so those can be added straight into the tank at reduced amounts over a span of time. Cal Labs Black Earth Premium (CAL BEP) is one such substrate.
  17. sdlTBfanUK

    Replacing substrate

    The filters (with the bacteria) etc would still be running in the old tank happily with the shrimp and the old substrate as it had been? Could some dirty water (with sponge squeezed in to it) be used in the bucket? The instructions for the JBL soil I am using is: Use: Rinse the substrate briefly under tap water to wash away any abrasion caused in transport. To avoid accumulation of minerals in the water, carry out a 50 % water change every 2 to 3 days in the first two weeks after filling. It isn't actually anything I need to do soon so don't want to waste too much of your time, but it would be much easier to have a bucket in the bathroom with the soil for a couple of weeks etc if you need to keep doing water changes every few days until the soil has settled down, ie the (above mentioned) mineral build up cleared and/or some soils I believe have an ammonia spike (doesn't this mean the soil must contain ammonia) etc early on so would that still happen in the bucket without filters and heater etc? JayC don't waste too much time on this (I appreciate your time) as I expect I am just not experienced enough to understand! Simon
  18. sky99

    OEBT: The shrimp with no fear?

    After more observation, i can confirm that they react less to my presence in the tank than both neocaridinas and caridinas babaulti; i have not performed testing for "out of the tank" visual stimulation.
  19. flaviomz

    Welcome flaviomz

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes flaviomz. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  20. jayc

    Replacing substrate

    No ammonia source to keep the bacteria alive. You could put fish in it, but then that's just another tank!
  21. So are all the pipes in our plumbing. Yet tap water can be used.
  22. Rolando_bonilla2

    Welcome Rolando_bonilla2

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Rolando_bonilla2. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  23. sdlTBfanUK

    Replacing substrate

    I know this is a bit out of date as a topic, but I have been wondering for some time about this. Can you just put new substrate in a large bucket with dechlorinated water (no heater or filter or anything else) and let it do its thing, cycle, ammonia spike etc, change the water weekly (or when an ammonia spike happens). Then put it in the shrimp tank setup afterwards so as not to 'risk' the shrimp or have to set up another tank to transfer the shrimp too etc. I'm sure there must be a reason why you can't just do this as it sounds way too simple, so wouldn't everyone do it?? Simon
  24. jayfreezzi

    Welcome jayfreezzi

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes jayfreezzi. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  25. Yeah I figured that out. The diffuser has a check valve to keep water out, however water from the bubble counter made its way to the wire. It didnt show anyou real signs of corrosion but better safe than sorry.
  26. sdlTBfanUK

    Betta Water Parameters

    Thanks again for all the great advice JayC. I did the weekly maintenance of the FISH tank today and have kept the old water (sponges were rinsed in it so nice and dirty) while I mull everything over. I checked the cupboards and have everything except an electrical adaptor - cheap and easy enough to get! Main thing now is whether I can re-arrange stuff to make room for the 15L tank near the new shrimp tank (probably wait until friends come round for that), as when I used it before it was on the dining table and that wasn't a good idea at all - always in the way etc, but it was only a TRIAL shrimp tank at that time? I feel more confident it should be possible thanks to all your helpful advice! Thanks for taking the time to do this JayC. Simon
  27. Bronze is 88% copper you know...
  28. Hello folks, I currently have a tank that is gH7 kH5 that has Amanos and neos. I was at the aquarium the other day and saw a Crystal red, and thought maybe I wanted to add one. However, they like low pH, kH etc. My pH is currently 7.4 according to my pH meter. The plan is to first gently lower the kH of my tank. From the reading I did, shrimp don't care about the actual kH value, but rather the pH stability. So what is the minimum kH value that can still be "stable"? Also, I had read a comment elsewhere that plants sometimes like carbonates, so maybe I still have to keep some kH? (not injecting CO2 for now) The second part is that I would prefer to have an inert substrate that won't break down over time, which means I don't want to run the typical buffering substrates like ADA, Fluval Stratum, etc. Is there some object, like a rock or mineral, etc that can buffer the water just below pH 7? I use RO water + Salty Shrimp GH/KH + potassium bicarb, so I can adjust the water however I want from the alkaline side. But I don't know of an equivalent acidic buffering thing.
  29. jayc

    Betta Water Parameters

    You seem to have right strategies to bring the parameters into line. GH/KH is flexible if you can't reach those numbers exactly. pH and TDS however, should be the priorities. That's not for me to say. I would just be taking a guess. A guess at how fast the beneficial bacteria multiply. Only way to determine if a tank is cycled is to test ammonia levels with a test kit. However, it will certainly be a lot quicker if you re-use stuff from an existing mature tank. Fastest way is to re-use the filter media from an existing tank, the dirtier the better. I wash my filters in new tanks - yes, it makes a visual mess in the new tank. But once the debris settles, the tank is well on its way to being cycled. Give the tank a warm 26-28 degreesC and the tank will be cycled in a week by washing your old filter in the new tank. As good as Bacter AE is, it cannot compete with re-using old media. (Don't forget to reduce the temps to the right level before adding any livestock) I cannot help you there. I am in denial about suffering the same illness myself. I have cut down by 2 tanks this year. And I'm already thinking ..."I have more space now, and 2 empty tanks. I wonder what I can put in them?".
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