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  1. Today
  2. sdlTBfanUK

    Parasite infection heeeelp

    Here are a couple of vids, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-FhLa3gl5o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfFyDb5o4iA It would be worth trying the salt treatment, or malachite green. I have 'Waterlife fin rot and ulcers' treatment that I got from ProShrimp, that definitely has malachite green in it and may work, though they may sell something 'malachite green' on its own? Here is a link to their treatments, lots, https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=treatment&submit_search= Always treat seperately from the main tank, and if you can set up a temporary quarantine tank to house them during the period of treatment, that is better, even a bucket or something would do! Simon
  3. pasha15

    Parasite infection heeeelp

    We havent added anything new for a while. The yellow is definitely not eggs but from what I can read on line that is the parasite. It is only on the underside of the shrimp. Looking on line seems to suggest ellobiopsidae!! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  4. sdlTBfanUK

    Parasite infection heeeelp

    Sorry to hear you have a problem. It is difficult to make out from the photos but obviously it is difficult to take photos of something so small? Try looking here, there were a coupe of possibilities I noticed having a quick glance through it, vorticello, parasites https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/5052-shrimp-diseases-and-diagnosis/ Both the ones I saw say salt treatment so that may be worth a try anyway (not household salt but aquarium salt)! Any idea where they came from, have you added anything new recently? I assume the yellow colour is eggs of the shrimp. Hopefully you can set up a temporary quarantine tank whilst you try the salt treatment and others may give some further advice! Simon
  5. Hi all. Watching my cherry shrimp today I have noticed several have yellow bits on there under side. Definitely not eggs. I have removed all I can see are infected. From what I can find on line it appears to be a parasite. I can not find any treatment options. Can anyone help. I do a minimum of 10%water change every week with zero water with added gh+/kh+. I clean the gravel every week also. Any advice gratefully recieved. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
  6. sdlTBfanUK

    Design ideas

    I hope the tank doesn't take too long to make, and everthing arrives in good order! As you say you are planning on Cherry shrimps things should be fairly easy and straight forward with regards the type of substrate and rock and cherry shrimp are quite adaptable! As you say, you will have to wait and see what rock you can get before you can really settle on a design/layout etc. Substrate usually falls into 2 types, inert or soil, whereby the soil reduces/buffers the ph (you don't need the buffering with the cherry shrimp as they prefer higher PH) but looks more natural and is good for plants. We have a new soil substrate which is made by tetra (german I believe, and quite new) that doesn't alter/buffer the PH but I don't know whether that is available to you in Australia, but that would be the best for both cherry shrimp and plants? You can just use gravel or sand with cherry shrimps if you don't want the soil? I assume the tank won't be covered therefore it may suffer from evaporaton and this will need to be TOPPED up with RO (or equivalent) water otherwise there will be a build up of TDS over time? If your rainwater you plan to use has a very low TDS you may be able to gat around this so you won't need to buy RO water etc! You can't really go any further with this aspect though until you have tested your source water! I hope you manage to source some great rocks for the scaping! Simon
  7. Subtlefly

    Design ideas

    Hi Team! So the tank has been commissioned and paid for. Final dimensions are 900x400x200, rimless, 10mm PPG starphire glass, polished edges. Now trying to think about design ideas Idea 1 would be a 5 stone layout with a split or canyon between the main and second stone. This layout would attempt to play with the scale- seeming like a vast landscape. Idea 2 uses larger stones and breaks the surface - I think the sense of scale would be changed here and would not seem so large - more like one mountain monolith. Idea 3 brings the scale to 1:1 and uses some kind of tree roots to create a creek or river bottom. What other ideas could work? I guess I will have to see as I try to find what kind of hardscape I can actually source. Thanks for any and all advice or ideas Have a great day
  8. Yesterday
  9. jayc

    PH keeps rising

    Let the RO water sit for 24hours before testing pH. That will give you the true pH level.
  10. Goco

    PH keeps rising

    Allright thanks, ill do 25% Waterchange weekly, i have many poweder food here, that should be working 😃 Thanks. Im already dripping my water, one litre per hour.
  11. sdlTBfanUK

    PH keeps rising

    Shrimps aren't very high bioload so you should probably reduce the weekly water change to no more than 25% and the new water will need to be dripped into the tank over many hours. I haven't used salty shrimp but I have heard it usually comes out about 6.8 so I don't think that is a problem. It is more likely to be you are changing too much water which has that PH difference of 1 may be too much for the babies to cope with. Lava rock won't alter the PH/KH so thats fine. Just do 20-25% weekly water changes, adding the ew water with a driper and I think you will be fine. I would probably get some baby shrimp food as well and that will be a powder,, so use a pin, dip the tip 2-3mm in to the tank quickly to wet, then in the powder and then swirl that in the tank so it spreads around. It is a fairly small tank so there may not be quite enough natural biofilm (caution not to over feed though). Simon
  12. Goco

    PH keeps rising

    Sorry, yes you are right. I have tropica powder Soil with Taiwan Bees. They are all healthy, no one is dying, buy my shrimp babys die off after maybe 2-3 weeks 😕 The only rock i have inside my tank is lava rock. im asking, why the PH is rising, because im putting RO water with only GH salt inside the RO water. Still the PH is rising to 6,8 PH after maybe 24-48 hours. Im little bit concerned, because my RO Water has maybe 5,8 PH? and the difference is too high to raise that fast. Maaybe thats killing my baby shirmps? The high difference. But i dont want to put any KH anymore in my Waterchange water. Thank you so much for your help 😃
  13. sdlTBfanUK

    PH keeps rising

    I assume you are using a (PH buffering) soil substrate and keeping caridina shrimp? A PH 6.8 and KH 1 is fine for usual caridina shrimp! Are the shrimp dying? Usuallly rock can cause PH/KH to increase but I assume you don't have any of that as you don't list that as in the tank? If you are using soil, it may have absorbed some of the KH and is slowly releasing it but that should reduce over time and if you only have KH1 that isn't a problem - I don't think you can actually measure KH 0 anyway with the usual test kits as each drop is +1 KH? It is possible to get smaller reading than 1 by altering the volume of water you test, double the water (10ml) each drop of tester fluid is then half a KH, double that again (20ml) and each drop will be quarter of a KH, but it isn't really necessary and wastes a lot of tester fluid you could try it once though if you want a more accurate idea of exactly where the KH is, not to the nearest whole number. I may not have grasped what your actually asking and I don't see any problem from the post but do feel free to ask again if I haven't understood? Welcome to the forum by the way and hope you enjoy it! Simon
  14. Goco

    PH keeps rising

    Hello Shrimp Keepers! i have a tank (20 literes) for about 4 Months. The first 2 Months i used RO water with KH and GH Up Liquid. The Parameters were about PH 6,8 / KH 1. The last 2 Months im just using RO Water with Salty shirimp GH + without any KH whatsoever. But after my Waterchange (50% Weekly), the PH still goes up to 6,8 after 24-48 Hours? Can someone explain me please whats going on? Is the soil saving my previous KH from the first 2 Months? Im using Liquid Humin, allmond leafs and got Coral Moss, Phoenix Moos and HCC Cuba. Im not dosing any CO2.
  15. Goco

    Welcome Goco

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Goco. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    Need Advice on Inert Substrate

    Catappa leaves are Indian almond leaves, as you say. Biofilm gows on the leaf surface as well which the shrimp love to eat so it is worth getting some and I imagine they are readily available! Your tap water may be very good in your part of the world, it is probably less messed about with I imagine than most of the world. It sounds like you ae having great success so I recommend you carry on as is and don't use anything you aren't already using, especially chemical wise at this stage. I think the 20% water change each week should slowly bring the PH/KH down to better parameters for caridina shrimp but if they have survived 2 weeks they are doing ok as they are and should be ok, just put the new water in very slowly, over many hours! Hopefully this will counter anything that may be raising the PH/KH and it may fluctuate over the week but it will be so slow it won't harm the shrimp whilst keeping those figures from raising too high! We may need to revisit it later if shrimp start dying, but as it is doing so well don't try and change things too much or unnecessarily and the water changes should reduce the figures slowly and stop any extremes of parameters over times. The caridina are much more difficult to keep than the neocaridina but I understand wanting to keep the caridina. The setup you have would ideally suit neocaridina better but hopefully this will work out long term for the caridina with minimal extra effort! Simon
  17. Ricky ng

    Need Advice on Inert Substrate

    Hey Simon, Thanks a lot to stop by and for all the useful information that you gave such a blessing to have you in this forum. I put 3 pine cone first to see how it goes lol i dont know if i can find that leaves but i think i can get the catappa leaves i think they all just the same.. my question is that since i also have purigen in my filter i believe it will absorb all the tannin so i dont know if the leaves still can reduce the ph.. what about seachem acid buffer or ADA soft water? Well the neos want keep breeding black bee and red bee also thriving for quite some time when i usr tap water plus seachem prime.. low grade prl and tiger fancy low grade has been there for just a month maybe but bb and panda just 2 weeks.. but i will try to do your suggestion 20% RO mineralize water changes.. Mosquito i think is a great idea mate.. and thanks a lot again for all the information that you gave.. may GOD bless you mate..
  18. sdlTBfanUK

    Need Advice on Inert Substrate

    Wow, what a great tank you have there! Usually a soil substrate s used with Caridina shrimp as that buffers the PH to ideal for te shrimp, but clearly you aren't going to re-do the tank at this stage. Adding Indian almond leaves can help the PH a little and you can put those at the back behind the scaping so they don't affect the look. RO water will have a Lower PH (usually 6 or lower) and a KH of 0 so water changes can bring them down so, I would maybe do 20% RO (mineralised) water change a week to start off and see where that gets you in a month - add new water very gradually, a dripper is best! The dragon stone may be increasing the PH/KH but if the 20% water change works and is manageable then maybe continue with that indefinitely - obviously you aren't going to remove the stone, that would be madness in such a beautiful setup? If the shrimps are suriving then I wouldn't worry too much and I assume you acclimated them well. How long have the shrimp been in the tank? With RO water you will need to add minerals which would be GH+ for the caridina shrimps. Your KH is a bit high for Caridina normally so don't use GH/KH+ as that will also affect the KH. Tap water rarely works with caridina! As for fish, I think it would be risky with Harlequin rasbora (they grow quite big for a shrimp tank), especially if the shrimp start breeding, but chilli/mosquito/dwarf spotted fasbora should be fine as they are no bigger than an adult shrimp. I keep neon tetra and ember tetra with some red cherry shrimp but it is very densely planted so shrimps can (and do) hide a lot but I still expect the fish must get SOME baby shrimps? Even the micro rasbora may eat some new born shrimp of coarse. The biggest pointer though is if it is working don't try to fix it, I had caridina in PH the same as yours and they were fine even though it's not perfect for them! It can cause more problems changing things than it solves as many have found out........... just do as you are doing with the water changes of 20% RO mineralised for a month,add some Indian almond leaves and maybe some alder cones, and see where your parameters have got too! If the shrimp die then it may be worth going further but I wouldn't at this stage as it seems to be going so well. Again, wow what a tank, I am so jealous! Simon
  19. I want to move to a caridina scape.. I've already have a quite mature 60p aquascape with mosses and anubias low tech but i use co2 only 1 bps or lower, dragon stone, inert substrate (la plata and jbl sansibar), water changes weekly and adding 1ml of Seachem Nitrogen and 1ml of Seachem Phospate, and adding a bit of ADA Mineral a day after, ADA Green brighty K every 2 day, previously i use tap water since i want to setup taiwan bee scape i already water change 50% of RO water.. Tds still 140-150, ph 7-7.5, kh 4, GH dont know i bought a broken one, i still try hard to lower down my ph but still can not.. so far i already tried to adding blue bolt, panda shrimp one each to test everyone is surviving so far.. what should i do next to stabilize the lower ph as well? And is there any fish recommended to keep with caridina? Harlequin rasbora?
  20. Ricky ng

    Welcome Ricky ng

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Ricky ng. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  21. jayc

    Shallow and long?

    What plants are you going to keep in the tank? Low light mosses and slow growing anubias? then yes, that will be enough. Good idea. Best to be safe.
  22. Last week
  23. Subtlefly

    Shallow and long?

    So do you think you would get away with 1 x Kessil A160? Or play it safe with 2 x A80 ? Cement tank been there since 1968 but I will check the water. Thanks
  24. jayc

    Shallow and long?

    Cement/concrete leaches a lot of minerals into the water. That's why on occasions you see discoloration caused by crystalline deposits of salts on concrete surfaces. These deposits often contain compounds such as calcium, sodium and potassium hydroxides or carbonates, bicarbonates, chlorides, and sulfates of calcium and magnesium. So definitely test the water for pH, KH, GH and TDS parameters. The older the rain tank, the less it will release these minerals. So it might be ok. With regards to your question on lighting, it depends on the type of plants you plan on keeping. That said, the Kessel will grow most plants you put in that tank.
  25. Wilbergz

    Fuzz on crayfish

    Tap is what im using, thank you for the help
  26. Subtlefly

    Shallow and long?

    Thanks for your input.. the tank is cement and is under our house, its what I use to top up my outdoor pond when it loses evaporation and the shrimp living out there are breeding. I will certainly look into test kits but to begin with I am just going to cycle the tank with plants. Thanks again!
  27. sdlTBfanUK

    Shallow and long?

    It is best to test the parameters of the 'source' water and go from there. Many people use dechlorinated tap water successfully with cherry shrimp (me included), but rainwater or RO water you will need to mineralise the water. I guess it is a bit too early at this stage as you don't have the tank yet, but you may want to ge the test kits so you are ready to go anyway - TDS meter/pen, GH, KH, PH and of course ammonia/nitrite/nitrate for cyclng the tank. I guess you can make life easier when you have the tests by testing the different 'sources' so you can get any minerals etc ready as well, and decide which source is going to best suit cherry shrimps? Rainwater is likely near to RO water so will likely need minerals added, and what is the storage tank/guttering made of, as some metals are toxic to shrimp, especially copper? Sorry, got a bit off original topic. All the equipment you originally listed looks good and well thought out from what I saw but as I am in UK it isn't the same 'stuff' here so hopefully someone from Australia will help with that aspect. Simon
  28. sdlTBfanUK

    Fuzz on crayfish

    I have often got odd groups of fungus growing when setting up new tanks, though not seen it on any shrimp, usually wood or ornaments etc and that clears itself in time once the tank is properly cycled and settled down. If he seems happy and active just keep a close eye on him and see how it progresses (hopefully disappears). Maybe the tank wasn't quite ready for him? I'm not quite sure how quickly/easy it is to cycle/establish when there are no plants, it may take longer as they are usually a part (speed up) of the process I would think, and if you have just got an ammonia reading this week? Keep testing Ammonia/nitrite and nitrate regulary at this point? If the ammonia gets too high it is normal to do a large water change, but that may trigger a molt so only do that if absolutely necessary. Don't overfeed the fish either (common mistake) as that may cause extra ammonia? What water are you using, RO or Tap? Simon
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