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By TheKeeper
So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple.
Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
Regards
-The Keeper
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By TheKeeper
Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week.
Options ive thought of-
1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling
3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
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By Shrimp>Wife
Hi Everyone,
I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread:
https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
I made mine with the following materials
- x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
- A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
- A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design.
NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
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By jessaweeshrimp
I am setting up a new tank and currently have a 36" 12 gallon, a 30 gallon long, a 20 high, a 10 gallon and a 29 gallon. I am now setting up a 75 gallon. I am using a Submersible and a HOB and a UG with Power heads.
My question revolves around running the Powerheads in reverse and feeding them with CO2 from a Citric/Baking soda set up. Will the CO2 hurt the plants being delivered to the roots first for maximum diffusion? I do use Seachem Excel in my tanks trying to give the plants the edge over the algae.
I have also used the H2O2 and CO2 punch technique successfully but haven't chatted too much about ferts and CO2. Does anyone see any concerns with my plan?
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By Zebra
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
?
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Cheers
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By richiep · Posted
I have a 220ltr tank been running 3 years a while ago they stopped breeding that's CRS &black bee in the same tank so I separated black bee and within two months the bl/bee are breeding yet the big tank still nothing water is ph6.5 gh5 kh1 temperature 23c those readings are the same in the 10ltr black bee, I do 15% water changes in all my shrimp tanks, I'm wondering should I do a big water change in the 220ltsi can't for the life of me think of what else to do, they have not bread for 6 months -
By Kingo · Posted
Morning all, So i thought I might update this thread for any others experiencing necrosis issues. Thanks once again for your advice @jayc! After 3 treatments of oregano oil, (at @jayc‘s recommended dosage with 3 different foods, 2 x commercial pellets, one of fresh blanched peas) AND increasing my 20% weekly PWC change to 50% twice weekly - my deaths in this tank have stopped. There are still a few w/advanced stages of cell degeneration showing. It appears to have stopped in its tracks for now. First berries in 6-8 weeks have just been spied also. Perhaps too early to say if the issue has stoped completely. -
By Kingo · Posted
Hi all, I am a constant lurker of old threads here it seems. Has anyone had success with crossing BM’s w/black with the goal of stabilising a darker line? -
By richiep · Posted
your idea of a small tank is worth a shot theres also black bee in the same tank that are not breeding they are the left overs from the transfer to a small tank -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
Oh, wow! That really is a surprise then! Maybe your best bet will be to set up a breeder tank which you can then transfer them later into the bigger tank, I guess that will help with getting the best colours possible as well, selective breeding etc? Clutching a bit at straws here, but, It may be worth doing a significant water change if that is an old tank and usually only has a small change. Fresh water usually seems to excite my shrimps and I have noticed this often happens, I guess it is the equivalent of rain falling in the wild and seems to encourage moulting and frantic swimming! I would wait and see if anyone else has any useful advice on here first though as it is quite likely someone has had your same experience and will know what to do but they may be in a different time zone etc so give it a day or so. That plan to set up a small tank though is a good one and worth a bash, especially if you already have an old one lying about anyway. I do have some links on my computer so will read those and see if that throws anything up and let you know if I come across anything, probably be tomorrow now though! Simon
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