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By Merlin
Hello -
I am firing up my planted aquarium and during the setup of my co2 regulator/solenoid I noticed a couple leaks that I am having troubles stopping.
There was a very small leak at the connector from the needle valve to the solenoid. I unthreaded and cleaned it up but upon reconnecting leak is still there (worse actually).
My question is how do you seal these connection? I hear teflon tape is not a good idea as it can cause some internal issues if small pieces break of. Since this connection is past the regulator maybe less of an issue but still.
Is this an ideal application for teflon tape? or is there some other method?
(edit, this is pic from the web. My reg is a JBS but connections are the same)
Thx,
Merlin
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By SonoranStorm
Hi all.
So some background
My 10g tank has:
Blue Dreams
Amanos
1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got
3 Rainbow Paskais
1 Celestial Danio
Phoenix Moss
Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant)
Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus)
Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern)
Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass )
Micranthemum (Monte Carlo)
A random piece of Subwasstertang
algea but i dont want that
The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on.
Current Parameters
Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C
Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test)
Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM
Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM
TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon.
Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone.
Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
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By TheKeeper
So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple.
Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
Regards
-The Keeper
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By TheKeeper
Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week.
Options ive thought of-
1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling
3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
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By Shrimp>Wife
Hi Everyone,
I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread:
https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
I made mine with the following materials
- x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
- A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
- A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design.
NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
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Posts
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By abepaniagua · Posted
Also, I forgot to say and ask. Very few of my neos are 1 color. Most have a clear area where organs are, then circled by its color. Let me share a picture. This shrimp seems like it's black but head area is clear. Most of my blue neos were like that. Now this one is one of the few that grew up 1 colored, and I have no idea what freaking color it is. I didn't buy it, so I'm sure it's one of my first babies from last September/October. But parents were both blue neos, and it doesn't have a clear area where you can see organs. Is that normal? -
By abepaniagua · Posted
Thank you for all the help. I believe the issue was a bacteria. Deaths have stopped so far. Shrimps are very active, they keep molting and there's still 1 berried female. I keep doing water changes until it cycles, and half the tank doesn't have the fuzzy white thing anymore. The other part does still. -
By Crystal Jade · Posted
I haven't been able to find an ammonia test kit so maybe that was my problem but I woke up to no dead shrimp. Before I do a water change I want to make sure my water I have is correct with water parameters and GH and KH especially. I did cycle my tank and it should be fully cycled by now. Thank you all! -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
Sorry to hear you lost some shrimps! How big is your tank and how long has it been running? Did you do the 'cycle'? When doing a water change you should drip the new water into the tank. That will illiminate the temperature difference problem and any difference in parameters between the two waters. When acclimating new shrimps you should drip acclimate them as long as you can, the longer you do that the better chance they have of survival. You will need to match the water temperature to that of the tank by floating the container with the shrimp in the tank once you have stopped dripping, before adding the shrimp to the tank! The parameters you have I would think are acceptable so I would stick with tap water if that is what you are using, for now. RO water is ideal but you will then need to buy GH/KH+ to add the minerals. As I say, I would hold off using RO/distilled water for now until we can pin point the problem. If your water has a green tint to it that may be an algae bloom? A white tint is usually a bacteria bloom and I have only seen that whilst a tank is 'cycling'. I think an algae bloom will mean there is less oxygen in the water as the algae absorbs it?????? Overfeedinng is very common. It will depend upon the size of the tank and how long it has been running etc. With only a few shrimp there may actually be no need to feed additional to the natural biofilm of the tank. As shrimps are feeding all day on biofilm it is usually better to see additional food as just a treat and feed very sparingly. Overfeeding with shrimps doesn't usually mean that the shrimps over eat, it usually means too much uneaten food polutes the water and if you have green tinted water, algae bloom, that may be why? There usually comes a time, if you are lucky, that there are too many shrimps in the tank for the biofilm to sustain on its own, so as the population grows feeding may become more necessary. Shrimp don't usually hide unless they are new to the tank or there are fish etc (even then they will usually adapt to them) or as JayC says, their is something wrong with the water quality? Simon -
By Crabby · Posted
Sorry... this was meant to be partially sarcastic. I mean it's a bit sad but I don't really mind all too much. Yeah they're like that, with those big mouths.
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