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By TheKeeper
So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple.
Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
Regards
-The Keeper
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By TheKeeper
Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week.
Options ive thought of-
1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling
3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
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By Shrimp>Wife
Hi Everyone,
I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread:
https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
I made mine with the following materials
- x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
- A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
- A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design.
NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
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By jessaweeshrimp
I am setting up a new tank and currently have a 36" 12 gallon, a 30 gallon long, a 20 high, a 10 gallon and a 29 gallon. I am now setting up a 75 gallon. I am using a Submersible and a HOB and a UG with Power heads.
My question revolves around running the Powerheads in reverse and feeding them with CO2 from a Citric/Baking soda set up. Will the CO2 hurt the plants being delivered to the roots first for maximum diffusion? I do use Seachem Excel in my tanks trying to give the plants the edge over the algae.
I have also used the H2O2 and CO2 punch technique successfully but haven't chatted too much about ferts and CO2. Does anyone see any concerns with my plan?
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By Zebra
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
?
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Cheers
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By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
As JayC states, that may not be suitable substrate for shrimp so you should probably consider changing it for a different substrate. he Ph of 7.5 is fine as cherry shrimp are suited to that and under normal circumstances salty shrimp Gh/Kh+ is the one to use with cherry shrimp, but the combination of the substrate and the salty shrimp is compounding the parameters to go so high. The increase in the TDS during the week may be part down to evaporation as you should top up evaporation with RO non-mineralised water. Both your sets of TDS numbers though should be ok with cherry shrimp! In the meantime I would try not using the GH/KH+ which should help bring your parameters down a bit more towards the requirements of the shrimp (though the GH/KH+ has all the ingredients that shrimp need obviously?). You will want to slowly reduce the figures anyway even if you change the substrate so that the parameters are closer together You may want to watch this video as it is very informative and may help you decide on where to go from here???? https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/14161-basics-for-shrimp-keeping-video/ You should be ok using distilled water but I would do the full set of tests on some to start with just to double check, in theory it should be 0 TDS/GH/KH etc as I am sure you know? The choice of substrate is dependant on what you are hoping to keep in the tank, soil substrate if you are keeping lots of plants (though that in itself will alter some parameters), but you can use an inert substrate with cherry shrimps as they don't need the buffering effect of the soils as bee shrimps do! My cherry shrimp live in dechlorinated tap water, but as he states in the video RO water remineralised is better as it has everything in it the shrimp require? Simon -
By jayc · Posted
That's due to the salty shrimp GH/KH+ which is doing what it is supposed to. If you don't want pH to rise you need to use Salty Shrimp GH+. That fluorite substrate needs to go. Depending on which version of Fluorite you bought, the red or black version, flourite has iron, potassium and magnesium and high levels of calcium and sodium present. -
By Felenah · Posted
I have a ten gallon aquarium with bloody mary shrimp. I have been using fluorite gravel and it keeps pushing up my GH and KH. I am now changing 20% of my water every week in order to try and slowly adjust it. My GH had been 15 and my KH about 10. I now have it down to GH of 14 and a KH of about 7. I have researched this on other sites and it seems that the Fluorite gravel will gradually stop leaching calcium. I have also been reading that a KH of 8 and above can cause problems with neocardina secondary to their shells getting too hard and the resultant white circle of death. My TDS can run anywhere from 230 or 240 after a water change up to 280 to 290 at the end of the week. Ph is 7.5 and above. I am no longer adding any supplements to the water. One more question. I am using salty shrimp GH/KH premium aiming for a TDS of 100 after off gassing as the water I change with. I am adding it slowly over 6 hours. The distilled water has a ph of about 6.4 before I add the salty shrimp. After I add the salty shrimp to a TDS of about 100 my ph increases to about 7.5. Suggestions? -
By kms · Posted
Those are some healthy discus, I used to breed them about 18 years ago, I had ultra high body and high fin, but those a really rare these days if you are after some good quality ones. -
By Andrea Eliasdottir · Posted
I just got onto this forum as I'm just looking to start keeping Cherries... You have just blown my brain! Just... WoW. o.O
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