Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.
I am firing up my planted aquarium and during the setup of my co2 regulator/solenoid I noticed a couple leaks that I am having troubles stopping.
There was a very small leak at the connector from the needle valve to the solenoid. I unthreaded and cleaned it up but upon reconnecting leak is still there (worse actually).
My question is how do you seal these connection? I hear teflon tape is not a good idea as it can cause some internal issues if small pieces break of. Since this connection is past the regulator maybe less of an issue but still.
Is this an ideal application for teflon tape? or is there some other method?
(edit, this is pic from the web. My reg is a JBS but connections are the same)
So some background
My 10g tank has:
1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got
3 Rainbow Paskais
1 Celestial Danio
Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant)
Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus)
Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern)
Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass )
Micranthemum (Monte Carlo)
A random piece of Subwasstertang
algea but i dont want that
The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on.
Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C
Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test)
Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM
Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM
TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon.
Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone.
Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple.
Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week.
Options ive thought of-
1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling
3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)