Jump to content

Has anyone made DIY remineralizer for sulawesi shrimp?


Josh16622
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      Recently decided to invest in an RODI unit to improve the quality of the water in my shrimp tanks and reduce the margin for any catastrophic deaths. However, sadly my LFS doesn't seem to carry anymore SS Bee Shrimp GH+ minerals. The owner does however have the fish version for soft-water environments and he claims that there isnt a difference. The dosage amount seems similar between the two as well. Does anyone have any experience with using it with shrimp?
       The packaging looks like this in case anyone was wondering!
      Thanks in advance!!
    • Shrimp>Wife
      By Shrimp>Wife
      Hi Everyone,
      I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread: 
      https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
      I made mine with the following materials
      - x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
      - A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
      - A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
      For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
      For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
      Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design. 
      NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
      I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
      I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
      It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
      So I made this:
       
      The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.

      A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.

      The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
      Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
      I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
      The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
      I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. 
      My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
      I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
      enjoy.
    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      This is the new and improved steriliser. 
      its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
      2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
      Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is. 
      Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
      Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together, 
      You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder, 
      ?
      I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
      I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
      its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
      I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
      Cheers

    • CNgo2006
      By CNgo2006
      Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
      What was used was:
      Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!

      For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!

      in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!

      View full article
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      There isn't much to report on this at the moment, I am 50/50 as to whether this is going to work or not long term. I have seen 2 dead shrimp since adding the new ones and counted about half of the new shrimp bought, that I saw yesterday! This is going to be a long term experiment I guess, the best I hope will happen at this point is that the remaining shrimp survive and reproduce and that new borns born in the tank should be more suited to the environment/water etc. There is an element of the acclimating didn't go as well/to plan as it should with my knowledge/experience, but I did the best I could, so that is what it is! Simon
    • Franks
      How is now the condition of pH?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Summary from the old thread; I managed to destroy my wonderful Taiwan bee tank with a faulty heater that cooked them. I then set up the tank afresh May 2019 using shrimpking substrate, new plants and wood etc. The tank looked very drab from the start and several batches of new taiwan bee were added and died out instantly. Covid came along so I decided I would give up with the taiwan bee shrimp and get some fish instead about a year later (1 kilie and 12 mosquito rasbora). September 2020 I tried another batch of tawian bee but they fared no better and the tank was still very drab looking (and still is to this very day). I very much doubt it is the substrate but won't be using that again but have aquired a large bag of the old type of substrate I used before, but I really don't know what caused the problem, maybe there was some sort of bacterial infection or I accidently poisoned the shrimp, or there was something on the new plants/wood??? The parameters were always perfect and I have to just accept I will never know? At some later date I dumped some wild type red cherry culls into the tank as food for the killie but he didn't seem to eat them (they were clear/brown so maybe he didn't see them) and they seemed to settle into the tank and bred! Fast forward to a month ago and I decided that now the postal service is better than it had been early in the pandemic, I should maybe try some more taiwan bee as the cherry shrimp had been in there for a year or so and doing well, so I assume whatever the problem was had gone, although the tank is still not as healthy looking as the other tanks using the other substrate! I ordered 15 black shrimps 2 weeks ago and put those in the tank and they seemed to be surviving so earlier this week I order 20 red/blue shrimp and put those in the ttank yesterday. This morning I counted 18 shrimps (about half) so it looks as though it maybe going to work now, the tank is so densely planted that I would never expect to see ALL the live shrimp anyway! The killie fish died a few days ago so he isn't a threat anymore and I doubt the rasboras are either. I am now in the process of fishing out the wild type cherry shrimp as/when I see them! Here is the link to the full thread about the above but I decided to start a fresh thread from here on, https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/14523-here-we-go-again/ I will keep this thread updated and get some photos at some stage, though the new shrimp are a bit small at the moment.  Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I think I should start a new thread on this now as this is getting a bit long and it seems to be working now, and to keep it tidier and easy to find/follow! I will attach a link below once done! Simon https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/15621-here-we-go-again-again/  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Hopefully it will settle quite quickly now and it was just everything sorting itself out, and at least you caught it before it caused problems with the fish and shrimps. As you also say, it will take a bit of time for the neneficial bacteria to spread in the new sunstrate as well! The  packaging of the substrate should tell you if there is any routine you should carry out when first using it because of mineral build-up or ammonia, so if the packaging didn't say anything I think it is safe to assume it was not the substrate (Fluval stratum is volcanic soil), and other people may have just assumed it was the substrate without considering anything else if they had a similar episode to yours? Simon 
×
×
  • Create New...