Jump to content

Has anyone made DIY remineralizer for sulawesi shrimp?


Josh16622
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Josh, I use Salty Shrimp 8.5. Although it's harder to dissolve, I've been successful by first mixing the remineralizer with 1 quart of carbonated water and allowing it to set for 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Then adding RODI water to fill a five gallon bucket. Add CO2 for 48 hours while heated and covered.

If you are raising ONLY Cardinal Sulawesi you can use the Salty Shrimp 7.5.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      Recently decided to invest in an RODI unit to improve the quality of the water in my shrimp tanks and reduce the margin for any catastrophic deaths. However, sadly my LFS doesn't seem to carry anymore SS Bee Shrimp GH+ minerals. The owner does however have the fish version for soft-water environments and he claims that there isnt a difference. The dosage amount seems similar between the two as well. Does anyone have any experience with using it with shrimp?
       The packaging looks like this in case anyone was wondering!
      Thanks in advance!!
    • Shrimp>Wife
      By Shrimp>Wife
      Hi Everyone,
      I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread: 
      https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
      I made mine with the following materials
      - x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
      - A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
      - A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
      For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
      For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
      Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design. 
      NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
      I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
      I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
      It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
      So I made this:
       
      The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.

      A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.

      The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
      Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
      I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
      The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
      I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. 
      My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
      I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
      enjoy.
    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      This is the new and improved steriliser. 
      its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
      2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
      Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is. 
      Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
      Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together, 
      You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder, 
      ?
      I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
      I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
      its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
      I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
      Cheers

    • CNgo2006
      By CNgo2006
      Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
      What was used was:
      Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!

      For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!

      in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!

      View full article
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • alkemist
      I believe the rocks are banded jasper. Previously when I first set up the tank, I was worried about the rocks. I have done previous testing with them before. I don't have hydrochloric acid but I've done the vinegar and water soak test. I had a test rock in RODI for a month with no change in GH and KH. There were no reactions to vinegar. The rock was marketed for aquatic use but it doesn't always mean it's correct. Sometimes I do question it though. I previously moved some rocks higher out of the substrate to help fix the scape and there was a dividing line in the color of the rock. The portion originally above the substrate had darkened and the part that was previously buried in the substrate stayed it's original color. The only other thing that comes to mind is that maybe I have been overmixing my re-mineralized water. I could have sworn that when I originally made the mix to 180 TDS in 1 gallon of water, it was 6 GH and 4 KH. I did some mix testing yesterday and at 160 TDS, it was 6 GH and 3/4 KH. I did a 10% water change and replaced it with straight RODI water. It brought the KH down to 5/6 but GH also down to 5. I will do another 10% water change next week and probably add in mostly RODI and a little re-mineralized to keep calcium and magnesium content in the water for the shrimp.   I think the KH rise could have been part of the issue. If I recall, I saw a shrimp laying around and twitching, like I've seen in a failed molt. The higher KH had totally skipped my mind and I went straight to thinking it was a food issue due to the ton of shrimp in the tank and light supplemental feeding. Though maybe it can be a contribution to possibly shortening their lifespan.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      The copepods are only really a problem as they compete with the shrimp for food, and look unsightly, but are actually otherwise a good thing and indicate the tank is good! As mentioned by JayC, I had success using fish, they wiped out the infestation in a couple of days. Every environment will find its 'maximum occcupancy' level based on how many it can sustain, and this can be increased with additional food but thats a difficult balancing act to get right. If the filter is clearing some of the copepods, then it will almost certainly also be clearing some of the new born shrimp (hense the decline) as they are similar sizes, rarely do you see newly born shrimp as they are soooo small. I would do as JayC recommends and change the substrate, but would also add some nano fish and plants as it is quite a big tank? Most substrates have some sort of run-in period so this may mean putting the shrimps back in the old tank for now? Shrimp don't need hiding places, unless there is something that predates on them. If you want to try the fish route then sufficient plants/cover/hideouts would be recommended to maximise the survival rates of the shrimps. If you do use soil substrate with plants you don't need additional plant fertilizer as the soil and shrimp waste will cover that.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      The KH is to high for sure and should be reduced, as JayC recommends. Best way to check the rocks is to put them (individually) into a container with pure RO water (which should be zero on all reading) and test the water after a week to see if it has stayed the same parameters. Water changes, slowly added is the only route I know of to reduce the KH! Other than that, everything you are doing etc seems to be well informed! Are you convinced there really is any real problem (other than high KH) as shrimp only live 12-18 months anyway so it could just be natural life span with the high KH also contributing?
    • jayc
      Copepods themselves don't pose much of a threat to shrimps. Apart from out competing the shrimp for food. They would be eating the same foods as adult and baby shrimps.  Copepods can be unsightly in a tank, especially in plague proportions. Unfortunately anything that will kill them will also kill shrimps. The only method that I have had success with is to catch all the shrimp and start a new tank. Do not reuse the gravel, plants or filters. Nothing from the old tank must move to the new tank. The shrimps are caught and placed in a temporary tank/hospital tank, for a few days while the new tank is set up, and then caught again to be placed in a new tank.  It's pain for sure. Oh, another method that works is to add fish! As long as the fish are shrimp friendly of course.  High Nitrates can be an issue for shrimps and shrimplets. So I would put this high on the list to remedy. High Nitrates is linked to detritus. See below.  Heavy amounts of detritus is one of the causes of Nitrates. Detritus that has sunk deep into the gravel, and stuck on filter media can be the causes of Nitrates increasing. When was the last time you gravel vac'd? Or the last time you squeezed out your filter sponges and cleaned the filter media? Of course, cleaning media should be done in the old tank water. Never clean filter media in chlorinated tap water. Lots of fast growing plants also help control Nitrates.  Do you still have the old 40 tank? I would use that as a temp holding tank and move all your shrimp across while working on the 180 tank.  Sand, even if it's black blasting sand, can get compacted and trap detritus. I would look at replacing it with substrate that has a similar shape to ADA Amazonia. That round shape has a reason. It allows more water flow between and as a result is "lighter" and easier to clean with a gravel vac. Plant substrates also have other benefits like holding more nutrients for plants, easier to plant with and has pH buffering abilities.  Yes, that is an increase in costs, but I have never thrown out old ADA substrate. I use it new in my Caridina tanks. And when the substrate has lost it's nutrients and buffering capabilities, I wash and re-use it in my Neocaridina tanks.    Hopefully this has given you some ideas.   
    • jayc
      KH creeping up can only be from fertilisers that are added, or from rocks. As beneficial bacteria break down ammonia/nitrogen, the by product is slightly acidic water. This is a very simplified explanation. But the point is aquarium water will become acidic as the bacteria breakdown nitrogen. It is this acidic water that causes some rocks to increase KH or carbonates. What rocks do you have in the tank?
×
×
  • Create New...