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Showing most liked content since 10/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I think I can finally add some pictures of the female in question. Sorry they aren't very clear but she would not sit still.
  2. 2 points
    Great New Specie of Pinto, with beautiful color on the back and head, please visit our website at www.aj-aqua.com. View full article
  3. 2 points
    Sorry to hear this @NoGi. You have made amazing improvements to this site and kept a fantastic resource available to all of us shrimp keepers, a Massive Thanks for keeping it running and developing. I can appreciate the need for time for other parts of life, I hope you get time soon to spend with the family and to recharge those batteries. Hopefully one of the current members is looking to take on a new challenge. Such a great site that has taught so many of us how to keep these little critters thriving.
  4. 2 points
    Hi Shrimp can and do climb up things including airlines and heater cables so i would say if you had a nice bit of foam at the top, that was all wet for them, then they will use it to climb into the next section. A very close fitting lid would help but then you would have to move the sponge filter to going over the back not the side. From memory, and mine is a bit dodgy, the reason for not putting glass heaters in the horizontal position is because there is a greater chance that the internal elements can touch the glass sides and when it is on that can crack the glass. Another consideration is the seal between the glass and plastic cap will have a greater water pressure on it at the bottom of the tank. Not a lot but if you have cheap heaters that might make the difference. There is the choice of stainless steel heaters now that are not that much more expensive than glass. They are fine to go horizontal.
  5. 1 point
    Good news! Calcium carbonate arrived today.. so going to mix on Saturday, so will post the results.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    Apparently one of my tanks contains a bit of a beatnik Hippie, aside from the over grown algae he seems happy enough always getting about the tank eating. The other day when I was removing algae from the hollow log the BN hangs out in I almost ripped off Mr Hippie snails hairstyle since he was pretending to be just another algae covered bump on the log.
  7. 1 point
    Hi there. I bought some yellows neo and are big , very big. I keep two lines with yellows, golden back, and fire. Mine shrimps are the half size of them, not only the yellows but all neos. I dont think its genetics its something on food i think. i feed them hikari algae wafers, glasgarten( baby , bacter, and shrimp snacks), dernele crusta gran, mulbery leaves. I feed shrimps every day, and some times twice a day. I dont feed any protein foods maybe thats the key to get biger? Tank size it doents mater... I keep rcs in a 180 lt , 100 lt and in 10 lt , all the same small size.. also all tanks have diferents water parameters from 2-3 kh 4-5 gh to 22 kh and 24 gh. In hard water colors are beter , more solid more red. orange , topaz, and mine yellow the bigest adult shrimp is arοund 1-1.2 cm, those i bought are 2-2.3 cm.. It looks like amano shrimp compare with mine shrimps.... Some photos... Not good photos its from my phone... Tank size it doents mater... I keep rcs in a 180 lt , 100 lt and in 10 lt , all the same small size.. also all tanks have diferents water parameters from 2-3 kh 4-5 gh to 22 kh and 24 gh. In hard water colors are beter , more solid more red. I take some photos on the phone , i ll post them .. . orange , topaz, and mine yellow the bigest adult shrimp is arοund 1-1.2 cm, those i bought are 2-2.3 cm.. It looks like amano shrimp compare with mine shrimps.... yellow golden back mine yellow orange and from abobe samge height.
  8. 1 point
    Same I have seen BBA grow in my tanks right next to the canister filter outlets, which has the highest flow. BBA is just so darn difficult to get rid of without Siamese Algae Eaters in a shrimp only tank.
  9. 1 point
    @Baccus We don't have cane toads here in SA YET. I do agree though that the larger capacity container is the best and more stable but sometimes space can be an issue. The plastic pond I use is on an elevated deck with normal decking so it has gaps between the slats giving some air current under the pond. I measured the 33 degrees after a week of hot weather in the high 30- 40 c. The Neos seem to thrive in there and continue to breed all year round even in our very cold winter. I have tested the water down to 8 degrees but again it could get colder in there. The pool holds about 150 litres I think - I haven't actually measured it . The old bath tub was filled and left for a week then emptied and refilled with RO with tubs of benibachi to help buffer the water, tubs with Monte Carlo like ground cover, lots of Java ferns and stem plants, frogbit for cover. As its an old bath I would think it would be equivalent to 2 X 4 foot tanks or slightly under. It is on the ground under a pergola and gets late afternoon sun for a short period. I have Taitibees in that one that have been in there since January this year and have a lot of berried girls in there now . They didn't breed over winter but this is their first year outside. I found the the second generation of Neos bred much better than the first so I guess it takes a while for them to adjust.. I feed weekly - mulberry leaves, a bit of snow and whatever commercial food I happen to have. Both ponds have crystal clear water with a nice covering of algae on the sides. I top up with RO as needed - I don't use tap water because of the amount of evaporation already causes the TDS to rise so plain RO works best - our tap water can be anywhere from 200-400 TDS depending on the time of year so way too high for the Taitibees.. I will try to get some better pictures Will but not sure if it will show up - best you come visit again sometime 😄
  10. 1 point
    Probably an easier option than an old bath tub (especially ensuring all chemicals that may have been used to clean it over the years are well and truly gone), and possibly safer stability wise, would be a 500L tub/ trough from Bunnings. I got one for my two dogs and it is sturdy and has straight sides and being round there are no corners for the yabby's to brace against to shimmy up the sides. The other bonus of the trough design that I got for my dogs is that the pond is above the ground and the sides are too high to allow cane toads in, where as cane toads have always still managed to get into the old bathtub I use as a pond.
  11. 1 point
    See if you can source an old bathtub Will. They are good as they hold a lot of water and the sides are too slippery to get a purchase on so they shouldn't be able to climb out. If you use too small a tub the water gets way too hot. I have a shell clam - child's play pit type and a deeper plastic sand pit but in summer even under shade the temp in them has been at least 33 that I've measured and probably higher . The Cherries have survived for 3-4 years out there but I've now put the Taitibees in a bath and that seems much more stable. Good luck with her
  12. 1 point
    hello everyone, we are AJ Aqua. Many Taiwanese independent breeders with outstanding quality shrimps aren’t able to be discovered by foreign enthusiasts due to language barriers and lack of marketing. The mission of AJ Aqua is to pre-select and introduce these valuable hidden treasures to hobbyists globally.
  13. 1 point
    I know a few people that say the secret to forktails is to have harder water and a teaspoon or two of salt. I have a pair but get very few eggs and even then most are infertile - I dont think its the water - the male just doesn't seem to love the ladies. I'm looking for more to breed from. Cyanodorsalis can live in freshwater but most people say they really need a slightly brackish tank for breeding. I got some recently from Aquagreen in salty water ~20+ ppt I transitioned them down to ~5ppt and lost a few in the process. They are now happy but no breeding yet. I'm hoping to transition some plants up to the same salt levels - I have a native val and a myriophillum that came from pools in the Wimmera River in Victoria that were ~8ppt salt but I've been growing them in rainwater.
  14. 1 point
    I hope to be getting some forktail blue eyes (pseudomugil furcatus) soon which I plan to put in a 50-60 L tank, heavily planted with red cherry shrimp and nerite snails ( along with a few hundred pest species of snail namely Ramshorn and MTS). Has anyone kept these before and are there any tips/ tricks I need to be aware of with them? Eg Prefer harder water or more forgiving like Pacific Blue Eyes in the water department? Prone to committing suicide? I keep open topped tanks, the tank they are going into has lid (but the light stopped working and I find it gets too hot with the lid down. Once I get these guys I am then looking at possibly branching out into Neon Blue Eyes (pseudomugil cyanodorsalis), which is another species I would love to know if anyone has kept and bred successfully without to many dramas. This is the tank I am planning on putting the Forktail Blue Eyes in.
  15. 1 point
    Hi @Don Welcome to SKFA. As @jayc was saying different shrimp require different water conditions. As a general rule the ornamental shrimp we keep in aquariums Prefer a neutral or lower PH. That is a PH of around 7 (neutral) and down to 5.5 (acidic). Most rocks, especially in Australia, are alkaline and will raise the waters natural PH, over time. This can be a problem if your shrimp require a low PH environment. There are still plenty of shrimp that will tolerate and even do well in a higher PH. Australian natives and cherrie shrimp are a couple that come to mind but i really depends on what water parameters they were raised in to start with. If you get a bit more specific and say what type of shrimp you are talking about then i'm sure somebody can give you clear advise on what will and will not be good as a hardscape.
  16. 1 point
    That's absolutely not true. Most rocks will give off carbonates which can alter water parameters. Cause great pain in keeping the right conditions for shrimp. If given the choice, avoid rocks, if you don't want to constantly be adjusting water parameters. However, if you are keeping Sulawesi shrimp, then the opposite is true, since Sulawesi shrimp prefer high pH. Then rocks are almost a must have to maintain the high carbonates for a high pH. Driftwood on the other hand will leach tannins and natural acids which help reduce pH and maintain the conditions shrimp prefer.
  17. 1 point
    You can do that. But don't assume it will be instant. You still need to give it a few days, and test for Ammonia, and Nitrites before adding shrimp. These parameters are too high for them to thrive. Look up the RCS preferred parameters and work matching it. BTW, we do have a for sale section in this forum, but you need to be a Premium subscription member at the very least to unlock that feature. However, most for sale threads for from/for local Australian members. So shipping to the US could be prohibitive. Good luck with the hobby. Don't hesitate to ask us more.
  18. 1 point
    See if any one selling second hand chiller in ur area. Might be worth it in the long run Sent from my HUAWEI Y360-U72 using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    Welcome. Be careful, you're going on the route of a very addictive hobby °°)
  20. 1 point
    Hi not am I only knew to the Forum Am also new to keeping shrimp. that means I have a lot to learn and a far way to go. At this time I'm the proud owner of two Berried Pumpkins shrimps and Blue Jellies. They are still settling but no pics yet. I will probably not post much for now as I will mostly be doing a lot of reading. I've been doing Fish tanks on and off most off my life but I've been back in the hobby for about two years now. at this time I have 7 tanks and 2 15l tanks will be dedicated to my new babies. I know the tanks are a bit on the small size but I will move them to bigger setups once I have the money to buy two larger tanks.
  21. 1 point
    Aquarium: Mr Aqua 12g (90cm x 24cm x 21cm) 45l Filteration: Eheim 2213 Canister Lighting: BeamsWork 90cm (10,000K) Heating: Aqua One Glass Heater (22c) Substrate: Fluval Shrimp Stratum Flora: Anubias nana, Anubias paco, Anubias coffeefolia, Java Moss Fauna: Crystal Red Shrimp Hardscape: Malaysian Driftwood Food: Boss Aquaria Shrimp Crack, Benebachi Kale Tablets, Aqua One Vege Wafers Extras: Boss Aquaria Mineral Powder Future Plans: Intend to test different foods like Indian Almond Leaves & Mulberry Leaves
  22. 1 point
    Hi guys, ive recently joined this forum. I am perth WA based. I have been keeping blue cherry and sulawesis in total of 3 years. Am somewhat experienced and would love to hear what rare species you have! I am hoping to get some aura blue tigers. I hope someone in perth, WA has them and is willing to sell! I accidently posted twice!
  23. 1 point
    Hello @Arkaedus First up welcome to SKFA. There are many ways to do what you want. The first decision is are the dividers are going to be glass or acrylic. Both have their advantages and dis-advantages. Glass is stronger and is easier to stick to glass so it will help with the strength of the tanks. It is harder to work with. Acrylic is not so strong and cannot be relied on to stay stuck to glass with silicon so should not be part of the tanks bracing but it is much easier to cut. So first up you could cut holes in the dividers and cover them with a small enough mesh so the small shrimp cannot go through. You could cut the dividers 4-5cm short and have some mesh at the top so the water flows over the divider and through the mesh. You could cut the dividers 4-5cm short and have the gap at the bottom. Cut some aquarium safe foam (filter foam) 6-7cm thick and compress it into the gap so there is no open holes. The water will flow through the foam but the small shrimp will not be able to go through. This will also add mechanical and biological filtration to the tank. All three have their pro's and con's.
  24. 1 point
    Looking awesome. How tricky/easy are green babaulti compared to the others in your experience? I am looking at getting them at some stage when I see them available.
  25. 1 point
    Ok it looks like if I am quick at locating the pictures that I want to post the site will merge the pictures from two posts into one, which is better than having to post one pic at a time. Can the top broken photo bucket links be edited out?
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    There are plenty of Australian Shrimps not found by hobbyists yet. There are a whole pile of undescribed and different shrimps on the Arhem Land and Kakadu Escarpment CAAB Search 28 756976 .. Leptopalaemon spp. .. Kakadu shrimps 28 756276 .. Leptopalaemon gagadjui .. common Kakadu shrimp 28 756279 .. Leptopalaemon gibbosus .. humped Kakadu shrimp 28 756277 .. Leptopalaemon glabrus .. smooth Kakadu shrimp Parent Codes (if any): 28 708000 .. Order Decapoda - undifferentiated .. decapod crustaceans Child Codes (if any): 28 736901 .. Australatya spp. 28 736005 .. Australatya striolata .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736902 .. Caridina spp. .. [a shrimp] 28 736027 .. Caridina brachydactyla .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736006 .. Caridina celebensis .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736001 .. Caridina confusa .. false zebra shrimp 28 736007 .. Caridina gracilirostris .. slender-beaked caridina 28 736008 .. Caridina indistincta indistincta .. indistinct caridina 28 736009 .. Caridina indistincta sobrina .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736011 .. Caridina nilotica .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736010 .. Caridina peninsularis .. McCulloch's caridina 28 736028 .. Caridina riverstoni .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736012 .. Caridina serratirostris .. spiny-beaked caridina 28 736026 .. Caridina simoni .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736013 .. Caridina spelunca .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736002 .. Caridina spinula .. McIlwraith Range caridina 28 736014 .. Caridina thermopila .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736003 .. Caridina typus .. typical caridina 28 736015 .. Caridina wilkinsi .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736004 .. Caridina zebra .. zebra shrimp 28 736904 .. Paratya spp. 28 736016 .. Paratya australiensis .. Australian paratya 28 736017 .. Paratya howensis .. Lord Howe Island paratya 28 736018 .. Paratya norfolkensis .. Norfolk Island paratya 28 736905 .. Parisia spp. 28 736019 .. Parisia gracilis .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736020 .. Parisia unguis .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736906 .. Pycneus spp. 28 736021 .. Pycneus morsitans .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736907 .. Pycnisia spp. 28 736025 .. Pycnisia bunyip .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736022 .. Pycnisia raptor .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736908 .. Stygiocaris spp. 28 736023 .. Stygiocaris lancifera .. [a carid shrimp] 28 736024 .. Stygiocaris stylifera .. [a carid shrimp]
  28. 1 point
    Authors: Bob Kroll. Fishmosy All the following information comes from personal observations, captive keeping and breeding. Longirostris are wide spread and the most abundant Caridina species in FNQ, found from at least south of Tully to Cooktown, and no doubt beyond. They are confined to coastal streams. I have found them up to 300m altitude in some creeks. To get to this height they have had to climb 50m high water falls. Habitat and Water Conditions Longirostris occur in both large rivers and small streams. In large systems, they require shelter from predators (particularly fish). Dense Vallisneria beds are their preferred habitat and they are in large numbers in these areas. In small streams at higher elevations, there is no plant cover and they tend to be in places where there is low numbers on fish predators. For this reason they are the dominant species in these areas. They can also be found in small and large leaf litter beds. From personal observations in these locations, they can occur in high densities (50 per 25cm2). The rocks and creek bed are clean of detritus and algae when they are at these densities, probably caused by the shrimp’s constant feeding actions. Longirostris are fairly forgiving so long as the water is clean and free from ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and high amounts of phosphates (this applies to all aquatic animals to some degree). In the wild, they live in water that is always clear with a minimum visibility of 1 metre up to 5 metres. Hardness ranges from 0 KH and GH to 8 and 10 degrees of dH depending upon season and the creek where they occur. They have been kept at higher KH and GH and prospered under these conditions. pH is the least important parameter as the pH in their habitat changes from wet to dry season; lower in the dry season because of the leaf litter, higher in the wet because of increased water flow. Ranges from pH 6.6 to 7.4 are appropriate in aquariums. Temperature ranges from 16°C at altitude to 28°C lower down. Temperatures are highly variable year round. In some streams that run from the highest mountains, it is warmer in winter because of lower flow at this time. Similarly, water can be 24°C during winter because of ground water inflow into the creeks. After summer rain, temperatures can be 16-18°C. These tests have been conducted for two years in Harvey creek. Harvey creek flows from the second highest mountain in Queensland. The mountain is covered in rainforest. The following ratings denote ease of aquarium care from, 1 = easy to 10 = hard Availability 5 Keeping 1 Longevity 1 Breeding 6 Compatibility 1 Water parameters 2 Food Longirostris is a good algae eater and will eat anything it is offered. Vegetables are eaten readily, as are raw fish and prawn. All commercial fish and shrimp foods are taken with ease. Breeding Longirostris can be sexed by size differences. All big specimens are female (up to 4cm) whilst males are under 2.5cm. I don't know yet if the males remain small or change sex, that experiment is to come. A mature female can carry hundreds of eggs. The eggs are 0.4mm, the same sized egg as C. typus, but Longirostris are easier to breed than Typus. Aquarium breeding is achievable if they are kept on their own. As the shrimplets are small and free-swimming, they are open to attack from everything. The first food offered to shrimplets should be hard-boiled egg yolk, liquid fry food or spirulina in small amounts so as not to pollute the tank. The egg yolk can be offered through a piece of stocking, or in a small amount of water mashed up with a bar-mix/blender. I also use the bar-mix on the spirulina in a small amount of water. Both the egg yolk and spirulina mixes must be stored in the fridge to keep them fresh, and shaken before use. I use an eye dropper to feed because you have greater control over how much you feed. I also only keep each one for three days before making a new batch. As the shrimplets are so small, you can only raise a small number at a time. However this will lead to easier shrimp to breed as each generation may result in bigger shrimplets (essentially a selective breeding program where the shrimp cull themselves). Most hard to breed aquatic species get easier to breed through captive breeding, because the fry best suited to captivity survive and pass on these genes to the next generation. General Notes The term ‘Glass shrimp’ will be given to these as well as most common Australian shrimp. I feel it is too broad a term to give our native shrimp. When caught, most species will drop their colour making it difficult to get an accurate ID. However, some species can be quite spectacular when they are kept in the right conditions. For general ID, Longirostris has an easily distinguishable red vertical stripped pattern. For scientific purposes, the rostrum or nose of nearly all shrimp is how they are primarily identified, although there are many other ID protocols as well. The Longirostris has a long rostrum, not to be confused with the red nose (Gracilyrostris) which has a longer rostrum. One would think that Longirostris would have the biggest rostrum, but this is not so. Gracilyrostris has a more graceful nose but a bigger nose. Both these species are similar to two species collected near Darwin, Northern Territory, but are genetically different and breed slightly differently.
  29. 0 points
    The time has come for me to hang my net up and focus on other priorities in my life. Working in excess of 80hrs a week and running 3 online sites amongst other things has been leaving me with no time to spend with family or to simply physically and mentally recharge. Rather than leave this community with a forum owner that is always MIA, it’s probably a good time for me to retire and find someone to take up the baton to move things forward. A big thank you all for making this such a great place for newcomers and experienced aquatic keepers. And huge thanks and shout out to all the current and previous moderators – @Squiggle , @northboy , @jayc , @fishmosy , @revolutionhope , @ineke , @OzShrimp, @smicko , @Loach , @buck and apologies if I missed someone. Some anticipated Q&A Who is taking over? Couldn’t tell you as no decision has been made. If you know of anyone that might be interested, get them to get in touch with me. What happens in the meantime? Absolutely no change, the cogs keep turning and it’s business as usual. You probably just won’t see me post that much but I will be lurking. Anything urgent just tag me in a post or send me a PM. When will the change happen? When I find someone suitable. Might be a week, might be a year from now. What about my shrimp? I shut my tanks down back in Christmas to free up some time so no issues there. lol