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Showing most liked content since 01/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    If you ever thought our Aussie native shrimp where dull or boring...... well I have a treat and surprise for you These are a mix of Chameleon Shrimp, Darwin Red Nose Shrimp, Darwin Algae Shrimp, Blackmore River Shrimp and possibly the odd Confusa thrown in.
  2. 5 likes
    this Bluebolt is a breeding machine. Time to catch out the Bluebolts and give them their own tank again.
  3. 5 likes
    Rather than in the post, what about in the signature? E.g. If you are interested in aquiring the yellow cherries in my topic <link> drop me a PM or something along those lines. Have a requirement that in order to be allowed to place in the signature, a topic must exist showing the colony, tank setup etc...
  4. 5 likes
    From my experience Facebook is pretty much dead when it comes to shrimp sales, it's like a bargain basement clearance house & most pages now seem to sell more buce than shrimp. Some people sell rubbish quality shrimp without stating the grades & sell them for really low prices which makes others think that must be the standard price for that shrimp. I'm very proud of my yellow cherry shrimp but finding buyers is not always easy - I recently needed to move juveniles because I had way too many & I struggled to sell them off at $4ea (when they're normally $8ea for med/high grade) I don't sell my culls because they shouldn't be in the marketplace - I want people to have nice shrimp, not spend 2 years refining and improving them like I had to. I ended up selling to a good LFS who then resold them for $15ea There needs to be a place where sellers can build up a reputation (like eBay feedback) and where people can go to buy decent quality shrimp from reputable breeders. The administration needs to set up rules that they are not responsible for sales & that those issues should be brought up with the seller directly. There are always buyers out there who shouldn't buy shrimp because their tanks are not ready or suitable for the shrimp they are buying - I don't like selling to people without asking a lot of questions to ensure I'm not sending my shrimp to their deaths. I'm always happy to share my parameters and help people who want to get into keeping shrimp - sadly there are some sellers who don't care about the shrimp they send out or sharing their hints & tips, some breeders treat sales like a competitive arena and keep essential information close to their chests. Some treat shrimp like a cash cow & others like myself aren't in it for the money - I'm a passionate hobbiest who enjoys sharing the hobby - I'm not a shrimp business looking to cash in & rip people off. I was hopeful that this forum would be a better place to offer shrimp for sale - because the members here have access to all the forums and information needed to have a happy healthy shrimp keeping experience - not a nightmare of deaths & disappointment. I would vote for the classified/for sale section be kept & breeders encouraged to offer decent quality healthy shrimp advertised accurately & honestly. If you're selling culls then list them as such. I like that you make potential sellers upgrade their membership to be able to sell on here - because it should help the quality of sellers & support the forum financially at the same time (++ bonus!). This is a great forum & the opportunity should exist for buyers to have somewhere to buy decent shrimp direct from the breeders. That's just my 2 cents worth.
  5. 4 likes
    I'm a new member here but I've been stalking your forums for ages & always found answers to my questions. I only keep cherry shrimp (paint fire red / yellow / black / blue dreams / yellow rili experiment) & am very proud of my yellow colony which is well established & has been heavily culled in early days & I add new genetics regularly to keep the colony fresh & healthy. Apologies for poor quality phone pictures & reflections - I'm definitely not a photographer lol I've also added a pic of my red colony [emoji7] the original & still a favourite
  6. 4 likes
    There are some times when you need to drop the water levels in your tank, for example, to change substrate. You've spent potentially months or even years cultivating a nice layer of biofilm on the walls of your tank. So how do you stop the biofilm from drying out and dying off? The simple solution is gladwrap/cling film/clingwrap. Simply lay a piece over each wall of your tank to keep in the moisture. And when you refill the tank it will float to the surface for easy removal.
  7. 3 likes
    I should also state I am relatively new to shrimp keeping but planted tanks I do have a bit experience with. I also know shrimp prefer O2 enriched water and injected Co2 can deplete O2 levels. One thing people do get misinformed about with Co2 is it been a nutrient for plants. Unfortunately it's not the case. Easy way to explain it is Co2 for plants is like air for us. Air and Co2 have no nutrimental value that's why fertilizers are used to boost nutrient levels. Decaying plants, food, fish waste do release small amounts of Co2 but isn't usually enough to sustain a balanced amount released. I found Low tec plants like java fern/java and pelia moss and some crypts are the preferred plants for shrimp tanks. And don't need the extra Co2 injection or ferts to flourish. Liquid carbons (what I like to call liquid fake form of Co2) like flourish excel has micro traces of copper which is deadly to any shrimp. Not to mention can raise TDS levels through the roof. Other macros/micros like iron can also contain copper. Phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium all contain chemicals that will affect shrimp coloring, molting, breeding and life span. Common basic chemicals in aquarium fertilizers that are not naturally found in shrimps natural environments can include Rexolin APN a Micro Mix containing (Fe+) Iron DTPA Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4) Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4) in unbalanced portions can be a toxic mix for any fish or invertebrates. I have probably gone overboard but I believe to much info is better than not enough.hahaha.
  8. 3 likes
    When something starts to become a problem for the moderators then remove it. The last thing we want is moderator burn out and then a neglected site. If you follow the forum and read the posts then it dosent take long to work out who has what and where they live. If you want to buy some new ones or get some genetic diversity then a direct PM is not that hard to do. Is it against the rules to include a note that you are willing to sell in a Post? PM's between members then exclude the moderators involvement.
  9. 3 likes
    You are just lucky that you live in a cold climate country. A lot of us especially in Australia is sweltering through heart wave Temps at the moment. Temps are in the high 30's, it was 40+°C yesterday. and it has been like this for many days in a row. If it wasn't for my chillers, the tanks world be 30+ °C. Disciple is also living in a country that is constantly hot , so chillers are a must. On the other hand, he won't need to use heaters. But yeah, i wish this heat would go away.
  10. 3 likes
    Done @NoGi, I should win some sort of prize for this ^_^
  11. 3 likes
    3D modelling is complete, This is not the final design and still needs a few changes but it does reflect the system as a whole.
  12. 3 likes
    I'm trialing a new process for SKF Aquatic t-shirts. The old method of me buying and keeping until people wanted them didn't work. Doing them in bulk doesn't really work well either with my time commitments so I am trialing some on demand printing. I'll keep reviewing providers in an effort to keep costs down but for now these guys are usually pretty good. Please note that as this is based in the US, pricing is in USD$. I've priced them all at the lowest point their system will allow me to go. Check out our new designs here.
  13. 3 likes
    Hi@AquaLars these are most certainly bloody mary shrimp :-) They are derived from the chocolate/dark variant of wild cherry. Depending on the lighting it is possible to see that the colour shows from more depth than the red cherries.. (despite being a darker hue of course as well) [emoji173] [emoji111] [emoji444] Will
  14. 2 likes
    Hi Damien, sorry to hijack the title of your previous thread Though, this title is perfect for those pictures: I have set a tank with the water and soil of the creek, and this time it seems to work. Water is KH: 0, TDS : 30. The one at the bottom is pregnant. This did happen in the tank , and I also have shrimplets. Sorry for quality of pictures, they are from a phone. That being said, these critters leave me perplex: I caught them in the wild, but they really look like the Hue bee (aka Princess Bee)...
  15. 2 likes
    Seachem is giving back with "Save the Rhino". 250ml bottles of Stability and Prime will receive a Bonus of 30% extra FREE. Also, a proportion will be donated to Save The Rhino. Click on the link below to jump on this awesome deal! http://www.thetechden.com.au/searchresults.asp?Search=Rhino
  16. 2 likes
    Amazing API Promotion-Buy a Freshwater Master Test Kit and receive a FREE GH and KH Test kit worth $17.94!Need test kits? This is the perfect time to add one to your cart and take advantage of this fantastic deal. This deal is only available this month. Dont forget you can still use your SKF discount code to give you even better savings. http://www.thetechden.com.au/API_Freshwater_Master_Test_Kit_p/aph41.htm
  17. 2 likes
    @Tricky, pick the right low light plants, and your tank won't need CO2. Saves you money and time from having another piece of equipment or three. My shrimp tanks all have mosses of various varieties, subwassertangs and java ferns. These low light plants are all thriving and constantly need pruning. Which is another added hassle. Pruning means that my hands will need to go into the water, and that's an added risk of introducing contaminants into a tank. Avoid if possible. CO2 shrimp tanks are not taboo and can be done, as long as you know the risks & disadvantages, which is what Brent and Merv are trying to say. Many people have done it successfully. You can always supplement O2 with oxydators, like the one from Sochting. Go ahead if you still like to try it. But do it properly. If you add CO2, plant the heck out of the tank - don't do it in halves and let the shrimp suffer from too much CO2.
  18. 2 likes
    +1 @Brentwillmers. Good for shrimp, not so good for plants. Good for plants, not so good for shrimp.
  19. 2 likes
    I cant help myself have to share. I just llove this colour! Her body is nice but the legs are a bit lacking. Eagerly watching the next generation mature now :-) [emoji173] [emoji111] [emoji444] Will
  20. 2 likes
    So @Ronskitz Came over the other day to help me with some canister maintenance. He even took a quick video. Since I havent done a update for awhile here it is.
  21. 2 likes
    Maybe there is a benefit to all this heat, it seems that nearly all my native girls Chameleons, DAS, Blackmore and Darwin Rednose are berried. Even my little Spotted blue eyes have come to the party and spawned some new fry.
  22. 2 likes
    They might be but very hard to tell because the tank is rather wild in the tank, with a jungle of val, and moss that has gone ballistic. The only time I really get to see the shrimp is when they are right at the very front of the tank, conned out for some particularly tempting food.
  23. 2 likes
    Hi VickyH you have a really nice tank of yellows I've only had yellows for about 7 weeks now and they have started to breed up but to get to your standard I will have to do some serious culling
  24. 2 likes
  25. 2 likes
    Thanks so much - I'm glad you like them :) I like to show the quality of entire colony not just the best shrimp in the colony. It is certainly a very active colony & very large in numbers, but they don't seem to mind :) I will be splitting them into 3 tanks soon - currently setting up 2 new tanks for them - one will isolate the neon striped paint grades to see if I can breed the highest grade possible & the other just splitting up the numbers - (just in case something was to happen to the mother colony). It's taken me a couple of years to get the quality up to this standard & as I said I'm very proud of them [emoji16]
  26. 2 likes
    Just an update. After the F1 shrimplets had grown up. I culled the males and kept 3 females. From those females, I then crossed back to a RB. Heres the female berried. After releasing the eggs, I discovered I may have created some Blue Steels. Heres the pic of the baby. And now here it is at juvie age. Only found 2 of them and hoping for them to be a pair. Fingers crossed. :D Also...I'm hoping this one could be a red steel. Might need to work on it but it looks promising.
  27. 2 likes
    My cardinals have bred. Pretty chuffed as I thought it would take them a bit longer. The adults are highly cryptic, hopefully these new bubs will be less inclined to hide away.
  28. 2 likes
    a some of my TB colony out for dinner
  29. 2 likes
    I LOVE the new theme logo 😍
  30. 2 likes
    Ok SSL is now enabled by default. You may see a message that warns of mixed content, that's not a bug/error, it'll be due to images that I hard linked from the old URL that I haven't updated yet. If you see this, post the page link here.
  31. 2 likes
    Hi All :) after reading these forums for a couple of years like a stalker I have finally joined up & look forward to being able to join in the conversations. I've been keeping cherry shrimp for around 4 years and started with the red cherry (like most do) & fell in love with them. I only keep cherry shrimp & have a very successful colony of paint fire red cherry as well as a wonderful colony of yellow cherry shrimp which I am very proud of, I also keep choc/black cherry shrimp and have a slowly establishing colony of blue dreams which were a variety I totally adored from the moment I first set eyes on them and I'm so happy to finally have them. I also keep tropical fish and breed corydora sterbai, corydora hastatus, Kuhli loaches and good old common Bristlenoses as well as Endler Hybrid Guppies galore & axolotls. I currently have 18 tanks of all sizes from 60L to 800L and am always planning the next one - someone should have warned me this hobby is ridonkulously addictive - but I wouldn't swap it for anything! It's a great hobby and I never stop learning new and cool things from all the great people out there that are happy to help & share their knowledge with others, to all those that willingly share and help - thank you! ❤️ - you don't realise how many people you help with your posts & answers - especially the quiet forum stalkers like me. I look forward to finally joining in. :D
  32. 2 likes
    yes, i believe so. I don't know if biodegradation is the right term for it, even if I have no better terminology to replace that term. The best I could think of is ... 'nature'. Your soil isn't the only thing in the tank that is reducing pH. The bacteria is producing more hydrogens during the nitrogenous cycle of ammonia to nitrates and thus also decreasing pH. The water surface and air is exchanging O2 and CO2, and also alter pH. If you add CO2 into the tank, that will reduce pH as well, as we all know. As you can see there are many factors involved, and it's difficult to isolate one as the many cause. But, reducing amount of soil can help. New soils will produce a greater pH altering affect, but will eventually subside to produce more stable readings. So if you have new soil, keep up with your water changes. Or you can reduce the amount of soil used at the start. Or even introduce some carbonates in the form of shell grit or egg shells, or coral skeletons. Your soil might be reaching it's solubility limit as it is now. pH4.8 should be about it's limit. If you did nothing else, that should be as low as it gets. What soil are you using BTW? ADA Amazonia? <edit> - just read the first post. Amazonia has been know to drop pH into the 4's when new. It's common, when you use a generous amount. It will slow down when it matures, but you can help it along with some carbonate input as suggested above.
  33. 2 likes
    Not at the moment. I've kept a big male in the past. He was a very interesting inhabitant, quite charasmatic. I've seen full blue and full red/orange females. In fact I'm sure there are some pics of them in the field trip section. Line breeding - I dont know with these guys because a) I haven't done line bred these and I'm not aware of anyone who has, and b) I suspect the colouration of the males depend on their social status. The macros seem to have a complex hierachy, with the dominant male in an area being the most colourful and the biggest.
  34. 2 likes
    Hi guys, thank you, happy to be here. :) Happy new year to all.
  35. 2 likes
    No-one has gotten enough generations through yet to really test this out. I'm still working towards getting enough F2 to adulthood to work on producing F3. They are a tricky species and each generation seems to be just as sensitive as their parents. I've heard people claim to have grown zebs through three generations from wild caught, and claim it was easy. They can never provide pictures or information on how they supposedly did it, which makes me quite skeptical.
  36. 2 likes
    Thank you guys very much for the advice, i really appreciate it. I don't know how it survived the delivery and i guess my tank was acting like an egg tumbler with the suface agitation and bubbles it created. Ill try to keep him away from the bad colors neo to prevent WT. if this guy is blue i'll name him optimus prime :) ill keep an update on this little guy! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
  37. 2 likes
    Just on the subject of foam - your tip@jayc re bunnings polytuf mat was a good one. They are adequately thick, affordable and look good in my opinion :-) Keep us posted@Jarad love ya work mate as always!
  38. 2 likes
    You have shrimp in the tank while it is still cycling? I thought the tank was empty apart from plants. In that case, yes, lower the temps. The bacteria colonisation will slow a bit compared to a warmer temp, but you have to think about the shrimp in there as a priority. Now that you have livestock in there, I suggest you look into getting that "Bacteria in a bottle" to boost bacteria growth asap. Or squeeze the junk from an old filter media into your tank. It might look dirty, but it will boost bacteria numbers instantly, and the dirty look will be gone after a short period. Try to avoid cycling a new tank with shrimps in it. As contentious as the subject is, a fish would have had a better chance of survival in a new tank than shrimp. It takes a while to see the effects of shrimp exposed to too much ammonia.
  39. 2 likes
    Purigen's main role is absorbing organics before it turns into Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. Purigen is not the best at absorbing colour bodies or tannin. But it does absorb some of it, activated carbon does a far better job. So it only dampens the pH lowering properties of the peat, but it still removes some of the humic acids and colour. Trace elements released by peat will not be absorbed by Purigen, as it only targets organic compounds. This is what one of the Seachem tech support guys said on their forum... "Using Purigen will not have any impact on the benefits of peat. While Purigen will remove the color bodies, unlike carbon and other chemical filtration medias, it does not remove trace minerals. So, you can use Purigen without loosing the pH buffering ability and the trace elements produced by the peat. However, because it will remove the color bodies, the water would be fairly clear and Purigen would not be the product to use if you were seeking a blackwater look to the tank. " and " Purigen is an organic scavenging resin that remove nitrogenous waste at an unbelievable rate. It does not remove any other elements such as metals, trace elements, or nutrients from the water column. It removes nitrogenous waste before it can convert into ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. It has such great capacity for organics, that it has become known as a "protein skimmer in a bag"! It also does a fantastic job at removing tannins and color bodies from the water. " Just remember this ... Purigen is not a long term filtration media. It performs a role. Use it only when you need it to perform it's function, then remove it. Purigen should not be used long term in the tank, and left forgotten in the filter or bag. This goes for activated carbon, macropore and most chemical filtration media as well.
  40. 2 likes
    Now it's time for a little update :) Paracaridina Blue Bee: My Little Reef 28L: Some my New Shrimp ( Aura Blue and Rote Tupfel) My PRL: And my SCR: Thanks :) And My Sulawesi :
  41. 2 likes
    Hi, Beat regards Bartosz
  42. 2 likes
    +10 to everything zoidburg said. 28degC or 82-83degF is ideal for growing bacteria. You don't need it at 86° F. Too cold and too hot can slow bacteria growth. TDS meter is highly recommended as already mentioned. The 2 other things I would do is change the filter media: 1) Remove the coarse sponge, keep the fine and medium sponge. Fill the space with biological filter media like ceramic noodles, marine pure spheres, eheim substrat pro, biohome. The more the better. Maximise the Sunsun 602b's wasted space with this bio media. The space under the plastic stand can house a layer of bio media. The space on the top plastic tray can also hold a layer of bio media. 2) Stop CO2 injection until the tank is cycled. CO2 drops pH, whereas bacteria like higher pH. If you want a faster cycling time, keep the pH up above 7. After cycling you can drop it to 6.6-6.8. The tank's current 6.4 pH is already slowing bacteria multiplying. Our tap water in Aus is usually 7.8 pH, which is perfect for cycling tanks. So if your tap water is similar, do a water change now to raise pH.
  43. 2 likes
    Bump your tank up to 86° F during the cycle. It will help the bacteria grow a bit faster. Once the cycle is over, you can drop it back down to 68-72° F. Shouldn't need any carbon in the filter, unless you are trying to clean the water/remove meds. Probably don't need the copper test. Maybe ask your LFS if they can test for it? Been in the hobby for about a year, give or take... I don't have a copper test and I don't believe most hobbyists use one. Unless you have an issue with large amounts of copper in your water or you have a lot of copper pipes, I'd just recommend putting that money towards a TDS meter instead.
  44. 2 likes
    So we started keeping shrimp at the beginning of the summer and are doing well with our Caridinas and I just got stuff to take some pictures of them. Really good information on this board (sorry that we are more the lurker peeps then super active) as well as some great help from some locals who are now our friends really helped with our success! We are still sorting out issues with our neo's but now that we found our phosphate issue (over 20ppm in the tanks!) we should have those colonies kicking pretty darn soon. Let me know what you think and any tips on photographing the shrimp would be appreciated!
  45. 1 like
    I've not had an aquarium for some time, ab1 out three years. I saw NoGi selling a Disposable Co2 Regulator, I decided then and there that I would purchase his Co2 Regulator and set-up a brand new tank. - So Thank-You NoGi :P The plan is to set-up an ADA Style cube, plant it out, and stock with some Reasonable Quality CRS, some Boraras Brigittae & a few Otocinclus... I will update this post as I acquire more items, and update the thread with images of any progress made. Please feel free to make any suggestions, ask any questions you may have, or even post images of planted cubes that look awesome as I need much inspiration :p Cheers, John. ______ Purchased: Mr Aqua - Low Iron 30cm Cube. Chihiros Aquasky LED Glass Lilypipe Set Glass CO2/PH Checker CO2 Regulator CO2 Solenoid. CO2 In-Line Atomiser ADA Amazonia Powder To Buy: Eheim 2213 & Clear Hose. CO2 Hose CO2 Buble Counter. Hydor 200w In-Line Heater Hardscape Materials - Wood/Rock Plants & Moss - Tissue Cultured Shrimp & Fish. Power Boards, Timers, Etc. To Make: ADA Style Stand.
  46. 1 like
    Is the GH Builder liquid or powder? Correct though.... top off - RO or rain water. Water changes, remineralize. For lowering TDS in a tank, there's a few different things you can do... Remineralize new water to desired TDS and perform more frequent water changes. Remineralize water to a lower TDS (i.e. target is 130, remineralize to 100), and use this water until the target TDS is desired in tank. Switch back to higher TDS water at next water change. Use straight RO/DI or rain water. Not recommended, as this could result in a much more drastic change and cause shock to the inhabitants. As per a couple of other forum members, your tap water TDS should be around 150.... nice to see someone else with low TDS tap water. I have 3 KH and GH with a TDS of ~50. I've been mixing it with hard water, about 4:1 ratio, and aim for about 180 TDS.
  47. 1 like
    That's mighty impressive. Well done Vicki.
  48. 1 like
    Cherry shrimp really do best with 6-8 GH at least. No Planaria could have killed off planaria, nematodes, detritus worms and scutariella (what most people probably call vorticella). Should kill vorticella, too. Cyclops are harder to get rid of... hopefully, the CPD's ate all, but I wouldn't be surprised if some are just hiding. For future plants, you may want to consider an alum dip or bath. Alum makes the water acidic and I've heard of people using a bath for 3 days to kill off snail eggs. (not sure how well sensitive plants do with this) Some people recommend Potassium Permanganate to remove pests, however, in my experience, it doesn't work. I did two PP dips on some plants within 24 hours. The second dip was so strong that it took *days* for the solution to turn clear. Snails never died... Some people do bleach dips, although this can kill sensitive plants. There's also Hydrogen Peroxide dips and CO2 overdose. Carbonated water could work for the latter. So far, I've only dealt with nematodes, cyclops, detritus worms, small ramshorn snails, limpets and scutariella. A dog dewormer (Fenbendazole) took care of the scutariella. Great pictures of your tank and shrimp!
  49. 1 like
    It's actually better to purchase juveniles instead of adults. Juvenile shrimp are going to be able to adapt to different water parameters better than adults, thus less deaths. You might contact Han and see if he breeds the sakura or fire red shrimp? If not, bloody mary shrimp are a cool alternative! One has a clear body and a red shell, where-as the other one has a red body and clear shell. (although some may have shell coloration, too)
  50. 1 like
    awesome.....love your lighting systems!