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Like all creatures, they do rest, and also slow down and usually hide around/during molting etc!2 points
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Firstly, Welcome to SKFA @Shrimplets Nothing to worry about with that shrimp pictured above. It's normal. See this detailed picture courtesy of Chris Lukhaup I borrowed off the internet. Shrimps have these tiny "hairs" that is probably used to detect movement in the water. Vorticella is usually on the found on the top of the head, between the eyes. <edit> Oops, I was thinking of Scutariella.2 points
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I shall probably just call him bertie as I did the previous 2 I had.1 point
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What nice friends you have! Have you named the new betta yet?1 point
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I had friends round at the weekend, moving furniture around so now I can see the fish tanks from where I normally sit. The only tank that has been running since I moved has had bloody mary shrimps in it and they are fine. It was my betta tank before, and after moving my friends went out and got me a new betta;- As you can see he is ultra healthy looking (pic is of him in the fish store tank) and he has been very active from the moment he arrived and started a bubble nest within an hour of going into the tank. He is about half the size of a fully grown one! He is a bit bland to look at as just white but I went for him as the tank is quite (understatement) dark and so he is easily visible, even from a distance. Hopefully he won't devour the shrimps (the odd baby shrimp I don't mind) but I will have to see on that issue! All the water parameters seem fine aside frm KH which is 6 as this area has harder water than where I was before, but I will gradually get that down using the filtered water (RO) with GH+ shrimp remineraliser from this point, that has no KH and I will just do it gradually over a loooong period as neither he nor the shrimps seem unhappy as it currently is anyway! Apparently the store he came from also sell blue bolt (and some other taiwan bee type) shrimps etc so I will start thinking about setting that tank up (it is situ next to the betta tank) at some point in the near future, though that will be months away even when I do decide to start, as the substrate needs running-in, and the tank will need to cycle etc.1 point
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I see the 2 shrimplets, very exciting and the shrimp in the photo look very healthy! The KH is fine at 3 and slowly dropping because of the substrate, but still in the acceptable range. Not sure about your tank size, other than 'nano' but if you have fish in that same tank (I think I see one in the photo blrred and at the back) I would do 25% weekly water changes (mainly because of the fish) and that will help counter the substrate as well, until the substrate is 'exhausted' of its buffering ability. Use the same kh4 new water as currently and always add the new water slowly, a drip method is best. Obviously you will need to be extra careful when removing the old water that you don't remove any of the new shrimplets........ Try not to change too much though as you may do more harm than good and it looks like everything is actually already going well, visible mating behavour and shrimplets doing well. Hope you manage to get rid of the planaria and that usually involves sizeable water changes in the process so complete that first and from then do the 25% regular water change routine. As the population grows you will need to increase the amount of food but be cautious not to overfeed. The bacter AE should help with biofilm growth etc but it isn't actually a food for the shrimps, though you may see them eating some if it isn't dissolved fully. The scuds are harmless and I would (and did in the past) remove them manually when you see them.1 point
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I cannot see anything wrong with your shrimps. KH at 3 is fine for Neos. But why are you fighting the substrate by adding water with more KH? Fluval Bios stratum has a tendancy for slightly acidic water. Which means lower KH. I quote from Fluval website : "+ helps support a neutral to slightly acidic pH - ideal for live plants as well as tropical fish and shrimp commonly kept in planted aquariums + softens water naturally, reducing carbonate hardness" . If you want KH to stabilise at 3 or 4, some crushed coral is a good idea. I add some in my tanks in an old pantyhose, and bury it in the substrate so it cannot be seen.1 point
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Thanks for your feedback. I am coming back because I am uncertain on what I should do. There are some good and bad news. Bad news is that since last post, I think I lost one more shrimp. I see only 4 of them. Also I discovered some planarian. I just started the no planarian treatment yesterday. I have scuds too, I could get some but the remaining are now much more cautious and hide. Not sure what to do with it. The kh is very low, slightly under 3. I add water at 4kh but somehow it doesn’t evolve. I don’t want to introduce water too different since it s a nano and evthg can go so fast. I have the fluval bio stratum. I was thinking to add some crushed coral but I don’t have place in filter nor want to add it on the dark substract. On the positive side, the berried female is giving birth and I have seen at least 4 shrimplets. She still carries eggs. I put a picture of an adult and 2 shrimplets, can u see them? Finally this morning, I saw a male going crazy and actually mating the other female. Does it means that there are not so unhappy after all? Their behavior seem much more normal since last time. I barely feed them since they never eated my hikari shrimp cuisine but yesterday I did a test and they eated it. (Not the scuds) So I plan to feed them more regularly. I also bought bacter AE. Fishes go well1 point
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Thanks Jayc -)1 point
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hi again - and on another topic! Limpets, or at least I fairly sure thats what I have. What info I can find says they are harmless, but could be a nuisance as they can get out of hand easily. I have started sliding them out of the glass whenever I see them I did put them under the microscope when I first found them and they were fascinating but not really great to look at! In reality they are just tiny white specks inside the glass - but could they be an issue? I have a pretty cool video of two of them almost sparring in a petrie dish lol - but not sure if I can/or how to go about uploading videos on here. But then you've probably seen it all before anyway. TIA1 point
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Agreed with Simon. They are harmless.1 point
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Hi - I'm wondering what you peeps think about this black patch in the photo below. The shrimp population seems to have exploded and I would say it is a healthy tank. They are very active and out and about much of the time. I have seen one or two with this kind of thing - very few and far apart, and of the couple of dead shrimp i've had so far, none showed this. I'm pretty sure the other one I noticed like this was also berried. I'm adding 2 photos - on of the issue I'm asking about, and another of the shrimp in general so you can see their conditions etc. And also one more of another berried girl with no darkness. Thanks🙂1 point
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All shrimp molts are clear, sometimes called ghosts (I think that is a great description, not to be confused with ghost shrimp though) so you can't really tell by that (even caridina shrimp molts are clear as well) and very high quality Red cherry do look very similar to bloody mary shrimp. People thnk the last lot of shrimp I bought were bloody mary, but they were just very good grade red cherry (bloody mary were out of stock at the time).1 point
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That is the first I have heard of Bloody Mary's, but just did some quick research from which I understand they have red pigmented flesh rather than shells. All the molts I see are definitely clear or white in colour - does that support the Bloody Mary theory? Or are CRS molts the same? Thanks for the input 😊1 point
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Ok, great advice thankyou!1 point
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I would just carry on manually removing them as and when you see them. They will be harmless enough to the shrimp and, like snails, may even help with keeping the tank generally cleaner. Any treatments you could try would almost certainly affect the shrimps negatively anyway. As you indicate, they are interesting in their own way and add another dimension, but you need to just keep on top of them, before they do become a bigger issue though! Great photos.1 point
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Hi and thanks for your response. One thing I thought to add afterwards is that she has the same patch both sides of her head - making it seem less "disease like" to me. I think her colour is just the photo at a bad angle perhaps. What do you think of the colour of the the girl in the other pics?1 point
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Personally I don't think there is a problem, the black is beneath the shell and in an area that is usually not visible where there are organs etc. This shrimp has very poor quality colouring unless maybe it was supposed to be a 'red rili', but is still interesting, and early berried (the eggs are still yellow, the yolks)!1 point
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Its not a sign? If there a problem on the water parameters?1 point
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Master whats the meaning of the behavior of caridina if they swim arround or they active to swim? Vs They just like a lazy in the bottom? Just walking arround? Is there a meaning of that?1 point
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I heard about this cray a few years ago but never looking anymore into it. It's the world's smallest Crayfish growing to about 25mm, it's native to Australia and I believe declining rapidly in numbers. Does anyone know of a hobbyist keeping or breeding these guys? I feel like there is a whole lot of benefits to getting them in the tanks of keepers & breeders, the potential is endless as we all know the CRS & Cherries started from wild colours and look where they are now. Thanks in advance for any information, tips or discussion.1 point
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The photo is a bit blurred and in the shade for me to see much! Have a look through this link and see if that helps in any way. https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/5052-shrimp-diseases-and-diagnosis/ If you have fish (albeit small Rasboras) and a small tank then the shrimp will naturally hide more than if they are alone in an aquarium. Hopefully someone can help but the more information you can give the better!1 point
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How about my drip aclimate master? How will i fill up the tank? Do i need to mix or use minerals or i just put ro water?1 point
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Thank you all for your help.1 point
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Here’s a photo of my girl. I’m thinking she’s okay after reading the shrimp diseases link1 point
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That is what I would do but only change 20% of the water and see how that changes the tank figures. Don't retest the tabk for a few hours though to let the 2 waters mix properly first. Is the green water/algae bloom getting better?1 point
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After many many many many PM/Email/SMS/calls etc etc all asking similar questions about building and plumbing rack systems for shrimp, so when a friend asked me a few weeks back i decided to draw up a blue print Guideline to save me trying to explain everything over and over. So With these simple drawings you can understand the most basic way of plumbing up a system. The way i have drawn it is what works best for me and it is the way i have plumbed up all 64 tanks in my various systems now. You can modify any of the fittings and pipe to suit the size of your system but the lay out is tried and proven and works perfect. So i will start with the Over Flow (water going from tanks to sump). In the picture below you will see on the notes that i use 40mm pipe everywhere except the upstands (pipe going to bulkheads) this is to allow for the larger volume of water that passes though this pipe as its draining from every tank. The pipe that runs up the outside beside the tank with an end cap needs to have a hole drilled in the top (5mm). This pipe's purpose is as a noise reduction, if you dont have this you will get more noise in the pipes from the water. The next is the return. (water going from the sump into the tanks) For the return plumbing the pipe size is all the same, as a rule i always use the same size return pipe as the upstands used on overflow pipes. the only important thing to remember about this part of the plumbing is to make sure your corners use 2x 45 elbows to make the corner turn. If you use a 90 elbow it restricts the flow a little and makes the pump work harder than it needs to. You will notice there are 2 ball valves, one on each row of outlets before the pipe going into the individual tanks. This is to control the flow of water to each rack so it flows evenly as the first row of tanks will get more pressure from the pump than the top row, so you can reduce the pressure at the bottom to get the same pressure at the top :) Its always good to put a UV inline also as a bit of back up against any bacterial problems or algae blooms :) Feel free to ask the questions on this thread so everyone can benefit from the sharing of info ;)1 point
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I am new to shrimps. I had 7 neocaridina blue velvet since 1 month. I lost a couple in the very beginning but all the others seems to be very fine. Then one day most of them disappeared but I discover they were mating and 1 female was berried. Since then they hide much more and I realise they have an illness. I can see white on the legs. I did a salt treatment on one but it did not helped. The shrimps don’t move and don’t go on the moss as before. Kh is between 3,5 and 4, ph is around 7. Amonium nitrite and nitrate are fine, i have Chili Rasbora doing well . I thought it was a mold issue due to low kh I reduced ph and put a catalpa leave. I had to leave for some days and when I came back I see only 2 shrimps. This one has white on legs and stopped eating. She move her legs I thought it was for her eggs but I am not sure. They dont go on catalpa leave. They always stays in the dark so it’s difficult to observe. What should I do?0 points
