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Showing most liked content since 07/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    It is important that we as a community are responsible as hobbyists. Recent threats include the white spot virus that has been found in prawns in Queensland and the possibility that the crayfish plague has been introduced to our country via exotic crays from North America that might host this fungus and that have immunity to it. For example entire crayfish populations in Europe have been decimated by this disease because only the North American crays have immunity. It is well known that many in Australia keep and breed exotic shrimps and other creatures and in most cases this is not problematic but there are exceptions and so it is necessary that we have a handy resource on the forum that discusses this topic and provides relevant links. Australia has very strict quarantine laws; although we are allowed to keep and breed a number of different shrimps in Australia the importation of shrimp species not in the "suitable specimens for import" is extremely illegal and if you are caught you will almost certainly be handed a jail sentence. Local fish shops will often freely take any unwanted animals (even sick ones) and there are always plenty of other hobbyists who will jump at the chance to take them as well. Below are some simple rules that are universally applicable - 😠 Do not release any fish or invertebrate from your aquarium to nature regardless of whether it is native to the area or came from that exact place; this is because they may have acquired a disease or parasite in your aquarium/pond and you could do much more harm than good. 😠 Do not allow any of your aquarium water or other contents to enter stormwater drains or go anywhere that might find its' way into a body of water e.g. creek or lake etc. The Australian government advice is to dispose of your water down the sink/toilet. 😠 Do not bring exotic animals into the country unless they are on the approved specimens list (link is below). 😠 Do not collect wild specimens unless you have checked first that you are allowed to do so. 😠 Do humanely euthanise your animals if/when necessary. (link is at the end of the article). 😊 Do enjoy keeping aquariums and treat your animals and our natural environment with the respect they deserve. Below are links to lists of noxious species and guides at a state and national level as well as links to RSPCA instructions for humane euthanisation Instructions for safe disposal of aquarium contents and animals and general guide to aquatic diseases - http://www.agriculture.gov.au/pests-diseases-weeds/aquatic/disease_watch_aquatic_animal_health_awareness/other_aquatic_biosecurity_materials National Guidelines for management of exotic fish trade including list of specimens suitable for import - http://www.environment.gov.au/biodiversity/wildlife-trade/exotics/exotic-fish-trade A.C.T. ???????? NSW Guide / Intro: http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fishing/pests-diseases/freshwater-pests/ornamental-fish Full list of noxious species: http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fishing/pests-diseases/noxious-fish-and-marine-vegetation N.T. Guide / Intro: https://nt.gov.au/marine/for-all-harbour-and-boat-users/aquatic-pests-marine-and-freshwater/about-aquatic-pests-and-biosecurity List of aquatic pests: https://nt.gov.au/marine/for-all-harbour-and-boat-users/aquatic-pests-marine-and-freshwater/list-of-aquatic-pests SA Guide / Intro: http://pir.sa.gov.au/biosecurity/aquatics/aquatic_pests Full list of noxious species: http://pir.sa.gov.au/biosecurity/aquatics/aquatic_pests/noxious_fish_list TAS Tasmania has especially strict requirements regarding importation of live animals. The 3 links below contain lots of relevant information (Thanks to @jayc for finding these) http://dpipwe.tas.gov.au/biosecurity-tasmania/biosecurity/importing-animals/animals-that-can-be-imported-with-entry-requirements/freshwater-aquarium-fish http://soer.justice.tas.gov.au/2009/indicator/84/index.php https://www.ifs.tas.gov.au/about-us/fishery-management/environment-and-conservation/prohibited-activities VIC Guide and list of noxious aquatic species: http://delwp.vic.gov.au/fishing-and-hunting/fisheries/marine-pests-and-diseases/noxious-aquatic-species-in-victoria QLD Guide / Intro: https://www.daf.qld.gov.au/fisheries/pest-fish/noxious-fish Full list of aquatic pests(refer to schedule 1 part 4 through 6): https://www.legislation.qld.gov.au/LEGISLTN/CURRENT/B/BiosecurityA14.pdf WA Guide / Intro: http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Sustainability-and-Environment/Aquatic-Biosecurity/Translocations-Moving-Live-Fish/Pages/Noxious-Banned-Fish.aspx Full list of noxious species and proposed additions list can be found here: http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Sustainability-and-Environment/Aquatic-Biosecurity/Translocations-Moving-Live-Fish/Pages/Noxious-Banned-Fish.aspx News article reporting on an incident of illegal shrimp importation: http://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensland/taiwanese-student-jailed-for-illegally-importing-crystal-red-shrimps/news-story/f735730cdafd30cfb23f319bbe29215d?sv=d06fddccb50ab7281cfc7e74da630b8f If you deem it necessary to end the life of any tank inhabitants and they are not a highly illegal specimen then please ask your local retailer first if they might be willing to try to save them for you. If this is not an option then please see below links. Humane euthanisation of fish: http://kb.rspca.org.au/what-is-the-most-humane-way-to-euthanase-aquarium-fish_403.html Humane euthanisation of crustaceans: http://kb.rspca.org.au/What-is-the-most-humane-way-to-kill-crustaceans-for-human-consumption_625.html I hope this article has been helpful and that we as a community can will disease-watch-brochure.pdf View full article
  2. 4 points
    Mine have exploded since my last post here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 4 points
    OK a tiny update. Now I have a few more tanks with shrimp and corys. So all up I have (in no particular order): Tank 1: Yellow Cherries with mixed adult and juvie corys Tank 2: Tangerine Tigers and Orange Rilli Cherries with mixed adult corys Tank 3: Snowballs with adult breeding group of corys Tank 4: Sunkist Cherries with adult breeding group of corys Tank 5: Bloody Mary Cherries with adult breeding group of corys Tank 6: Black Taitibees with cory fry Tank 7: Red Taitibees with cory fry So far all the tanks are going great. As the shrimp mature they are very bold with corys and push them away from food.
  4. 4 points
    Here are a few pics I took recently of the Corydoras fry I have in the fishroom currently. It's interesting to compare the size of fry at hatching. It has no correlation to adult fish size. Generally speaking long nose corys have smaller eggs.
  5. 3 points
    Somebody get these into the country ... quick!! https://www.ingo-maurer.com/en/products/blow-me-up
  6. 3 points
    Had these guys a bit over 2 weeks now and the growth has been amazing they have gone from under 2cm to over 5 which seems amazing until you think about their adult size of 45cm which they can reach in 6 months I'm getting a little worried how do you house 7 of these little monsters lol.
  7. 3 points
    Already time for an update :-) benches are built (solid AS - massive thanks to my mate Kenny) I'll need to do some sanding here and there to remove misc stamps and marks then will give them a clear coat of varnish/sealant. Also all the miscellaneous crap in the room has been tidied and a lot of it stashed away elsewhere. When benches are ready then it will be time to shuffle the old tanks out and then bring in the new gear. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  8. 3 points
    Last year my tangerine colony started showing a few yellows. I did a search of overseas forums and found them mentioned there too under Caradinas Serrarata Fire Yellow. I decided to try and breed just yellows and started off with a nice trio. I now have a good size colony of yellows and find they breed almost 100% true with only 1 tangerine showing up over several generations. I'm not sure where I will go with these as I still prefer my other shrimp so will probably pass them on to someone else to continue with them. n
  9. 3 points
    The macrobrachium group of shrimp are characterised by the extreme enlargement of the second pair of pereiopods especially prominent in the males. They will tolerate a wide range of conditions as they are found in water from salty to full fresh but the variants I currently have seem to prefer a more neutral environment ph around 7, Gh 2-3, tds around 100 for fresh water variants temperature can vary greatly as well. Over summer they survived in tanks above 28 degrees for 2 weeks straight. The first Australinese were caught in water that was about 10 degrees, but they seem to prefer it from 20 to 28 degrees. Their natural environment should be considered, as the tropical guys will like warmer water than guys from the south. There are also brackish and salt water variants to be explored at a later date. They will eat most foods from peas, oats to commercial shrimp foods, algae wafers etc. Their natural diet varies depending on species from veg based to meatier diets, so keep this in mind when choosing foods for them. They are an intelligent and very inquisitive shrimp that is generally aggressive by nature, so housing them with other tank mates is risky at best. They will happily catch and eat snails, fish, other shrimp etc. They will regrow claws and limbs fairly quickly if they fight and lose a limb. I have the Australinese up to 5 generations tank bred without too many issues. Occasionally one will get in a bad mood and can easily wipe out everyone else in the tank in a few hours. This happened to me with a colony of Bullatum when a female went off and killed a big male and 2 other females overnight. Pay attention to how you setup the tank, and where possible a backup colony is helpful if you want to breed these guys. This guy was toppled as Alpha and lost his long arms; they are starting to regrow after a couple of days. The best setup will give them plenty of personal space with caves to hide in and plants to perch on. Try to break up the line of sight so they can keep away from each other to reduce fights and death, especially after moulting. They like to dig to look for food, so some sandy areas as well as finer gravel will keep them happy. Shrimp soil probably wouldn’t be great with them because of the digging. When selecting a tank keep in mind the size of the adults as they can vary from the very small, like Latidactylus where the adults reach about 5cm total length, to the Rosenbergi & Spinipes that can reach 45cm. They will become stressed if another shrimp comes within claw reach so a minimum of 2-3 body lengths separation per shrimp of floor space is essential to reduce aggression. Some variants are more nocturnal and only come out when the tank isn’t lit. The Bullatum are a good example of this, if they have plenty of cover they will only come out at night. Others, like the Australinese, are more outgoing and rarely hide. Each variant seems to have different sized and shaped claws depending on their preferred food source, from a smaller delicate claw in the Tolmerum: To the larger crushing claws of the Australinese: Or the ridiculously oversized claw of the Jardini: Or a long set of tweezers on the Bullatum: As long as you can keep the adults happy, breeding isn’t difficult. In the ones that have live young, mating occurs the same as other shrimp around the time of moulting. Gestation varies, but usually takes around 35-40 days. The live born young grow very fast if they have a good supply of food. The parents generally leave the bubs alone but can be removed if you want to ensure maximum survival. The young are generally clear with some patterning to allow them to hide from predators. The babies will eat a varied diet, the same as adults. They will require finer foods for a few weeks until they can tackle more normal foods. Australinese bub: Australinese bub: Berried Tolmerum (larval eggs): Berried Australinese (normal eggs): Berried Jardini (normal eggs): Jardini Bub: Jardini Bub: Baby Spinipes one of the more interesting bubs I have: A few of the variants, like the Spinipes, are larval breeders, so require more specialist care to raise the young through the stages from larvae to actual shrimp. This can be done similar to raising our other larval breeding natives like riffle shrimp (Australataya Striolata), if you want a challenge. Overall they are a very rewarding shrimp to keep if you have the space for them. They reward you with their antics, and being able to observe all the things you wish you could see the little guys doing is very educational. I have kept these guys now for nearly 3 years and gone from 1 variant to 5; and looking for more to study, as each type is similar in the way they look, but they all are very different in behaviour. Some hide, some are very outgoing, and others are constantly cranky while their mate is very laidback. They are almost human in the way that each has its own personality, but each is a closet serial killer just waiting for the right time to go off. Document Link: Keeping Macrobrachium in Aquariums.docx View full article
  10. 3 points
    Hi Everyone, I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread: https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/ I made mine with the following materials - x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre. - A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99. - A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32. For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design. NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter. I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to. I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
  11. 3 points
    I have added another macro to my collection Dave from Aquagreen managed to get some of the Spinipes for me. These are one of the bigger members of the family and can grow to an overall length of 45cm, they are a larval breeder so will be difficult to breed in the aquarium if I can even manage to keep a pair alive long enough to breed, they by account are very aggressive to all other tank inhabitants. it will be interesting to watch them grow they are currently around 2cm so very small they appear to have almost doubled in size in the week I have had them.
  12. 2 points
    Some of the aquarium dividers are installed and I'm pretty happy with how they are looking. We've used some small PVC tube with a slot cut in the middle to anchor and support the 2mm acrylic sheet as well as using the little plastic clips at the top (they came with the aquariums as supports for the lid). We have left a gap of around 23mm at the bottom and i will layer it up high with some fairly chunky gravel in the middle where the divisions are to allow enough flow to keep WP fairly well matched in both sections. LED controller has been built and we Have also finished 3/4 draining and moving out all of the smaller tanks into the room next door while we install shelving and modify the built in robe. Tanks have been filled back up with fresh remineralised RO and the shrimps seem to have handled the move OK and I haven't detected any spikes in parameters. Some shrimps in my yellow colony seem a little paler than I had thought but I think they'll bounce back alright. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  13. 2 points
    Thought I'd start to post some pics and updates of the progress and some of the steps along the way incase it helps anyone to learn from my mistakes and successes. Below is a pic of the room as it is now (very ad hoc) and also the materials we're using to build the new tables and shelves. We are using atructural pine for support including lengths along the base of the tables to spread the load with 25mm "eco" ply benchtops. Dressed pine shelves for misc frequently used items and to mount the lighting as well as to support waterchange dripping buckets. The waterchange method my friend and I have come up with (mostly him) is pretty neat and I'll share the details of how that will work later. The end result will house 12Γ— 60 litre tanks and 2x 90 litre tanks all of which will be divided into two sections. I will be using a combination biospon and the standard style air driven sponges for filtration - all biospon will be driven by one larger pump hidden away supplied by a large airline around the perimeter and a smaller pump for each table to supply air to the oldschool sponges to ensure filtration and aeration incase of mechanical failure. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  14. 2 points
    I have had these guys now for a few months, I have been adjusting the light and temperature recently to encourage breeding. After cutting a few hours off the light time and letting the temp drop a few degrees over winter, last week I added an extra hour back to the lights that with the warmer week allowed the tank to stay a couple of degrees warmer. this seems to have done the trick as I now have a happy berried female. now to wait out the gestation with macros it seems to take 35-45 days so it will be a long wait. the proud father
  15. 2 points
    I have decided to get a few more shrimp to create more tanks similar to the one I had a few years back in the video below. This 4 foot tank had a lot of corys and I had a population explosion of shrimps. Currently, I set one up with yellow cherries and another with orange rillis. Going to be looking for more shrimp when it starts to warm up a bit in Canberra.
  16. 2 points
    Hi JC, If you are feeding microworms on buffering substrates I would suggest using a petridish and pipetting the microworms in there. I currently have my spawning group of C.panda, breeding pair of barbatus, yet to breed group of C.schutlzei Black and yet to breed group of C.cervinus in with shrimp. Having shrimp there have not distrupted spawning of the corys that have spawned. I am thinking about introducing some shrimp into the tank of C.septentrionalis Colombia group as they are very skittish and I was suggested to use dither fish in with them. So I am going to use dither shrimp 😁 Most of my tanks are sand, half sand half bare or bare bottom tanks. I have bags of shrimp substrate but they are still sealed under one of the racks! lol
  17. 2 points
    Hi Serkan, Have you tried breeding the corys in shrimp tanks? Keen to hear your view. I find the microworms tend to fall between the gaps of the substrate especially for buffering substrates which are a larger grain size compared to e.g. sand. I have been breeding them in bare bottom tanks but any good tips from you would be helpful. Cheers, JC
  18. 2 points
    Has anyone ever tried breeding These two Shrimp together? Would anyone have a Suggestion on what the crossbreed could possibly look like?
  19. 2 points
    @inkevnito: I've also always been a fan of BEP until my recent experience. Not sure if you read the earlier parts of this thread. But at Kingos request I confirmed with the wholesaler that the current batch in Australia (and yes i also confirmed.currently all retailers are stocking this) is the same high TDS leaching super potent bags at all the shops. At least as of some time early this year. Mine was bought in November last year. You Don't have to take my word for it but I am convinced it is not particularly suitable for shrimp until they send another lot over to oz I'm sad to say. I am not great with water chemistry but I think best bet If you wish to try it is to 1) rinse it well and 2) use even less than 1/4of the recommended amount (if using RO). As I said earlier I used 1/3 - 1/4 of their suggested volume and it released over 400ppm into the tank within days followed by many hundreds more ppm worth as I did my waterchanges. And even with the reduced amount the pH was at 5.1 or 5.2 at best. Sucks I know. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will PS I should add that the wholesaler did his best to make sure all the retailers removed the statement about no ammonia from the details and that he has promised he will do his best to make sure the next lot that comes will be not like this. I will be the first to let you all know when the next lot hits our shores and our awesome forum sponsor @thetechden gets the new lot in stock :-)
  20. 2 points
    Personally when I start up a new shrimp tank, I usually add RO water without remineralising it. This will allow me to observe any rise or changes in parameters so I can rule out any source water issue. Also since there is no live stock I don't see a need to add minerals. Once the tank is cycled, I will do a 90% water change and refill with RO water and remineralised to the desired parameters. I'll let it run for 3 more days, do a final water parameter test and if it is spot on I will introduce live stock. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. 2 points
    Green shrimp I looked at one of my green Neocaridina under the microscope, and I'm trying to determine if all green shrimp are like this... or just mine. Any insight from other green or jade shrimp keepers?
  22. 2 points
    Ahh i googled them up and the common name is Cherabin. I have caught a few of these in the past but they never seem to make it to a tank. Mine seemed to all go a bright red. Enough said.
  23. 2 points
    I know it's going to be a shame to blemish them with the dividers but it's the most efficient way I've decided that I'll be able to do selective breeding without stressing the shrimps having to move them from tank to tank! I also want to dedicate one or two other seperate tanks for oddbods plus those shrimp that I just can't quite bring myself to cull as well as a few of my nicer shrimps popped in there as an insurance policy. The dividers will have no windows with mesh - I will just have 2mm acrylic dividers but with a gap at the bottom of 3cm and a 5cm layer of fairly chunky dark gravel either side of that spanning out 10cm and then a shallower later of either buffering substrate or plain old pool filter sand depending on the tank. I hope that should provide enough circulation. There will be a total of about 400-600 lph of airflow going into the sponges to circulate each tank. I've attached the rough plan for the LEDs here now. The electronics side of it will probably be finished soon. Things are really moving pretty quickly can't wait till the rest of the tanks are ready. Shrimps I will keep (What I already have) - Blue dream Blue body red rili (work in progress) Yellow cherry Bloody Mary Crs Green babaulti Blue dream Tangerine tiger Shrimps I would like to add - Shadow panda Caridina zebra Sulawesi cardinal Mid-dark blue oebt Inverts I have but have not made allowance for (mainly because I don't want to put massive tanks in this room where I'm not sure the floor might cave in and as a result will need to beg the minister of finance to allow me to have 2 tanks in the lounge again) - Macrobrachium Australianese Yabbies (cherax destructor) At this point without naming anyone because the list would be too long I'd like to thank all of the wonderful people in the shrimp keeping community who have helped me to get to the point I'm at now i have learnt a lot in the last 2 and a half years or so since I first signed up on skf. You all know who you are - thank you !!![emoji173] [emoji173] [emoji173] [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  24. 2 points
    Thanks for the encouragement :-) Here's a pic of some of the tanks I have chosen. They are opticlear I've been lucky to find them at a price that isn't over the top. The rest are arriving next week. I love that the silicone is pretty much invisible. And a teaser shot of my friends ingenious water change mechanism - he's finished the electronics side of it.. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  25. 2 points
    Thanks @jayc, Yep i meant that egg crate :) @jc12 I didnt have any algae problems with the clay root tabs, tbh i dont think i really needed it. You'll do fine without it but this was sometime last year when i discovered dino dung and wanted to test. Just super messy and a pain if you remove any stem plants out, the particles settle all over your plants and mosses, so you just got to flick your finger through when the waters a bit clear. I have tried API root tabs, the dino dung lasts WAYYYYYYYYYYY longer. Overall, like you mentioned, theres no need for any root tabs as the substrate was produced to fulfill that nutrient need. And yep, i purchased the 16kg scoria bag from bunnings, was enough to heighten a 4ft on both sides and back of tank, and left over for filter media. I have tried keeping my tank minimal too.. i tell yah, its not easy for me ahhaha I start off with one driftwood with moss, then slowly adding other mosses and plants.. Becomes a jungle real quick πŸ˜‚
  26. 2 points
    @Kingo I think inkevnito meant this type of egg crate... https://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=6659
  27. 2 points
    Hi Serkan great to see you back. I have a sizeable colony of the yellows - some are still a tad orange- and the yellow headed ones haven't bred yet but females are saddled now. My shrimp don't breed in winter but I've noticed berried girls in other tanks so shouldn't be long before they are breeding again. I will no doubt post pictures of the next generation and will let you know when I have some spare πŸ˜€
  28. 2 points
    No worries I'll message him now and let you know he should get back to me today with luck. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  29. 2 points
    I believe I may have made a mistake here, although could have sworn the quoted stock levels for C A L BEP (normal) were at zero, hence the email. Either way, purchase is made and items are on the way. I did order the normal version from the SYD based supplier hoping it's not from the same TDS jumpy supply as revs. I wonder if they batch their stock... I will start a wee post pr two of my amateur progress, mistakes and lessons. Feedback is always appreciated.
  30. 2 points
    I have bought all my CAL BEP from @The Tech Den since 2014. I like to support forum sponsors and being in QLD, I would suggest you check them out. With the 10% discount, they have always come out cheaper including delivery. Their service is top notch too.
  31. 2 points
    Woah, start a journal ASAP @Kingo. Keen to see your progression. Soon you'll have more than 5 2ft tanks with all sorts of shrimps. I agree with whats said above, BEP is my go to substrate for all planted and shrimp tanks now. Second would be benibachi Black Soil. I used ada and me no likey. Causes a mess each time i replant 😠 Fluval stratum im still using in one of my tanks from 2015 and still not mushy, but has lost a bit of buffering abilities. One bag of 9L BEP filled 3 of my 2fts easily. Didnt have much thickness though, as i wont be planting stem plants. This reminds me of DJ Khaled lmao
  32. 2 points
    At that time I was new to aquasoil so I was skeptical about CAL BEP not releasing too much ammonia. So all things being equal I simply assumed all aquasoil will release some ammonia. The biggest factor that won me over was the consistent feedback from other users that CAL BEP does not turn to mush easily as compared to ADA. Similarly, replanting/rescaping and stirring up the substrate didn't cause too much cloudiness in the water and settles back down quickly. My biggest nightmare is changing over new substrate for an established tank so the longer a substrate holds its shape and does not turn to mush is always a big win!!! I reckon as with all substrate regardless CAL BEP, benibachi, ADA, etc. it is prudent to ensure your water parameters are within safe range before introducing livestock. Unless you are changing over substrate in an establish tank which already has livestock, then it would be the best opportunity to justify to yourself AND your other half about starting another tank... and then another... and then another... 😜
  33. 2 points
    Here is some the key information that I received via email directly from cal aqua lab - Hi Will, Sorry for the late reply. We just got back from company retreat. BEP is made from natural fertile soil, as a result, there can be variations in certain properties depending on the batch of raw materials. Some batches are more fertile (ie more organic content and rich with nitrogen and minerals such as calcium and magnesium than the others). The batch you have is one such batch. The TDS increase you see are likely due to higher dissolved calcium and magnesium in the soil, and the presence of higher ammonia reflects the higher organic nutrients. Plants seem to love the more fertile batches. However, we have not tested the effect on shrimp And further - Hi Will, In that case please do not use those bags for shrimps. We get these high-fertility batches once in a while. This variation is one of the reasons we only recommend our substrates for aquatic plants. Their product description at that time is in the attached image. I was not impressed with my experience to say the least and threatened to report them to The ACA over this false advertising. The distributor should have since made sure that all Aus suppliers have removed that description. Nb I had purchased my substrate at the end of last year so perhaps there has been a good batch imported since I don't know how you'll find this out. My experience was with the normal granule size. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  34. 2 points
    Personally I have never used ADA myself. I decided on CAL BEP because at that time there were a lot of feedback about ADA releasing a lot of ammonia whereas CAL BEP is clean, releases minimal ammonia and does not break down as easily as ADA. Do a search on Aquarium Life forum on ADA vs CAL BEP and you will see the feedback. Again, this was based on my research at that time i.e. around Oct-Dec 2014. So far CAL BEP has worked for me for years so I don't see a need to change to a different substrate. I had CAL BEP in one of my tanks since Dec 2014 and it is still holding up very well. I'll show you when you come around for a visit. I believe ADA has since released a 'light' version which apparently releases less ammonia. You would probably have to ask Mr Google or people who is currently using it. I wrote an article about chiller selection a while ago which I hope may be helpful.
  35. 2 points
    Magnetic ones are ok to use, I find you need to go over the glass multiple times to get stubborn algae. This one I linked with a blade is pretty much a one pass cleaner. No going back and forth, creating massive disturbances in the tank. I can run a siphon hose behind the blade as I clean the glass and suck out the loosened algae, and perform a water change at the same time.
  36. 2 points
    Old post but i would like to add, i recently purchased one off Jamie to try. Didnt think it had enough power to run a biospon, but put it to the test and it works a treat! The sound was very quiet and is running on a 40cm high tank. connected the sponge filter and aPump at night, the next morning i see all the particles attached around the sponge... means its doing its job! I will do an update again soon to see if its quiet long term also.
  37. 2 points
    Hi. The shrimp hobby has resurfaced for me. Its never ending. I guess we all feel this.
  38. 2 points
    Well, Its been a bit of a journey but the rack is up and running. I keep promising to do writeups but its near impossible to get things done around here.
  39. 1 point
    Hi folks; I have some buce in my tanks. Those are quite nice plants. Though,when I got them a while ago, I messed with the tags provided with each plant, and now I'm completely lost in naming them. Any Buce gourou can help?
  40. 1 point
    Well, at least it will float if it falls it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    The first pic can almost be mistaken as many park benches. Haha. Nice work. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    @jc12 No worries always happy to share my thoughts and observations. With my pandas the occasional fry end up growing with the parents (I collect eggs regularly and raise them separately). I observed from around 15mm onwards they are bolder and come out and forage around the adults. Smaller than that they hide most of the time. With the pygmys if they were in their own tank almost any size really. But if you have them in the same tank as pandas probably 15mm is a safe size. Safe in terms of bullying from the adults, but more importantly for them to get to the food and not miss out due to hiding too much. There is very little concern in terms of adults eating the juvies. Hope this helps.
  43. 1 point
    Personally I would not use root tabs if I am already using a nutrient rich substrate like CAL BEP, or Benibachi, ADA, etc. I think nutrient rich (overdose) leeching out into the water = algae farm. @inkevnito, did you use dino dung with aquasoil? Keen to hear your view. How did it go? Just to add on to what @inkevnito said about lava rocks. They are under the BBQ section in Bunnings call volcanic rocks and comes in 3kg bags. https://www.bunnings.com.au/dalson-3kg-volcanic-rock_p3173371 If you prefer a 'finer' grained version of lava rocks, you can use scoria available under landscaping supplies in Bunnings and comes in 16kg bags. https://www.bunnings.com.au/ki-carma-16kg-10-14mm-red-landscape-scoria-stones_p3451878
  44. 1 point
    Looks great Ineke. I like the yellows and the twotone one as well.
  45. 1 point
    Find out what substrate your LFS stock, and come back to us with your options. We can advise what is good and what to avoid. Or if you are shopping online, do the same. Let us know what choices are, and we can give you advise based on what is available.
  46. 1 point
    On the subject of substrate I also was a huge fan of BEP and the bags i purchased in 2015 worked great for me. A more recent batch I purchased at the end of last year released a lot of ammonia and I mean a LOT. As a result of an exchange I had with them and the Australian distributor I believe their blurb no longer states that it does not release ammonia. Using 1/4 - 1/3 of the prescribed volume of substrate my pH still persisted at around 5.1. I was told by knowledgeable breeders that bees can do well at this low pH and so I tested it out with Crystal shrimps and bluebolts. The Crystal shrimp survived and bred but not well. The bluebolts refused to mate in that environment for me so I'm now looking at alternatives.. it is a shame as I had great success with BEP for my first ever softwater shrimps and I loved that it did not leach any measurablr ammonia into tanks with just a simple pre-seeded air-driven sponge filter popped in there. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  47. 1 point
    @inkevnito sorry about the late reply. There are a bunch of species that endlers would be fine with, like the Chromaphyosemion group which includes biateniatum, poliaki, volcanum etc. Very young endler fry might be eaten though.
  48. 1 point
    I have been using Benibachi for 5 years with the same basic setup as you and unfortunately still haven't found a solution to the low ph. I have now started using much less than the 5-6 cm base of substrate but the tanks always seem to stay below 6 for a very long time. I just very slowly acclimatise my shrimp and they seem to adjust quite well. My shrimplet survival rates are excellent. I keep TB ( KK, Pandas BB - all do well at 5.5 ) CRS, Tangerine Tigers, Tibees and Taitibees plus I keep a few Neocaridina - blues and yellows - the only shrimp that weren't breeding well were OEBT when I had them in the low ph . The trouble with using any chemicals to change ph is the rise and fall in the parameters and shrimp like stability. No doubt there will be something you can do to raise the ph but do make sure it's not using things like ph up etc. You could siphon out some of the substrate to 2-3 cm , driftwood , IAL etc also lower ph .
  49. 1 point
    Thats great advise from both of you. Now to the nuts and bolts of it. Do you use a single net, double net, Net and scraper/scarer or use one of those glass shrimp catchers. Get them in a corner or on the front glass etc. I find them bloody fast and run for cover really quick.
  50. 1 point
    Article - Edible Flowers for Shrimps We have been discussed and talked about feeding shrimp leaves and fruits on many occasions. And the results are quite well documented in the use of leaves like Mulberry, Oak, Indian Almond (Kattapa), etc. However, the idea of feeding shrimp flowers is still very new. After all in the wild, things like leaves, twigs, branches AND flowers all drop into rivers where native shrimps will use a food source. In terms of nutritional value, you will find nutrients and minerals in flowers that are lacking in leaves (and vice versa). I'll expand on one of the main benefits of a nutrient found in flowers that aren't present in leaves a bit later. HOWEVER, NOT ALL FLOWERS ARE SAFE FOR EATING!! So we will start with those flowers that are known to be edible. Of course that are literally hundreds of varieties of edible flowers. We all know about cauliflower and broccoli, those are some common flowers we eat regularly. My experiment is limited to what I could source close by. The flowers I tested on my shrimp include Rose, Nasturtium, Dandelion, Chrysanthemum and Pansies. Caveat: I KNOW for sure that these flowers in my backyard have not been sprayed with anything else apart from tap water and rain. No pesticides, fertilisers. If in doubt, DON'T use it. You could try other flowers that are easily sourced in your garden. But please note - I have limited my research and experiments to flowers only. Not the leaves of these flowers. As a cautionary warning, some leaves are sappy and oily, and might not be too safe to feed your shrimp. So I take no responsibility with the leaves of these flowers. Although, Ineke has fed Nasturtium leaves to her shrimp which they seem to like and was safe as mentioned in another thread. Preparation: 1) Pick fresh looking flowers with no visible damage. Select flowers that you KNOW have no previous pesticides or fertilisers, and don't grow down stream from sources of water that might be contaminated. 2) Gently wash them (flowers are very delicate and soft) if there is dirt on them. 3) Remove as much of the base of the flower (the stem, receptacle and sepal). Usually only the petals are what we want. 4a) Place into tank fresh. (Recommended) 4b) Or Blanch it for 1-2 minutes in hot boiling water. Remember, flowers are soft, they don't need to be blanched for much longer. (not a necessary step). 4c) Freezing or Drying. While it's possible to freeze or dry flowers for storage and feeding at a later date, I'm not sure what nutrients will be lost. 5) Ensure any decayed leftovers are removed if left uneaten after a few days. Review of the flowers: I have searched high and low in the scientific literature for quantitative data on the nutrient content of flower petals. There are relatively few references, particularly in English. Most of the literature is focused on evaluating flowers for their sensory characteristics, such as appeal, size, shape, colour, taste, and above all, aroma, which is important for the cosmetic and perfume industry. Available data on a number of edible flowers show that petals also contain an array of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamins A and C, various B vitamins, folic acid, and minerals including calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and phosphorus. Apart from the nutritional value of flowers with the abundance of vitamins and minerals, flowers also contain a huge amounts of carotenoids and flavonoids compared to leaves. Specifically, Crytoxanthin, Zeaxanthin and Lutein which is obviously lacking in the leaves. Just look at the pretty colours of flowers. Zeaxanthin and Lutein has been known as a natural source of colour enhancement in fish (and maybe shrimp). These carotenoids are regularly added to fish food from sources like spirulina. Zeaxanthin enhances the Reds and Oranges while Lutein enhances Yellows. Flowers are also high in antioxidants, they are antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory. This sounds too good to be true. It's like feeding medicine to your shrimps to fight viruses and bacteria. On to the review of specific flowers. Dandelions: Say what?! That's a weed! It sure is, and I have heaps growing in my front garden. Now I have a use for them. Dandelion is a perennial plant with jagged, bright green leaves to 30cm long, a hollow flower stem to 30cm and one terminal yellow daisy. Has been subject of many studies investigating it's ability to even fight cancer! Dandelions, contain numerous flavonoids and carotenoids with antioxidant properties, including four times the beta carotene of broccoli, as well as lutein, cryptoxanthin and zeaxanthin. They are also a rich source of vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, pyroxidine, niacin, and vitamins A, B, C and D. Minerals including iron, potassium and zinc. The rich yellow colour of dandelion flowers comes from beta-carotene - Lutein specifically. Side note: the leaves are apparently also really high in Calcium (187mg per 100g), rivalling Mulberry leaves. But I have not tried feeding Dandelion leaves, nor do I know if they are safe. But people eat them. The Chinese, European and Native American have been using the dandelion plant for centuries to treat digestive, kidney and liver ailments. I fed my shrimp a fresh dandelion as one experiment. The first day in the tank, the shrimp investigated it, but didn't seem to be eating. It wasn't till the 3 day that I noticed them actually munching on the flower. The petals probably needed to soften first. The second experiment was with a blanched dandelion. This time the shrimp took to it the same day. And average sized flower was consumed within 3-4 days in my tank. Verdict: Big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. Nasturtiums: Nasturtium is a PERENNIAL growing to 0.5 m (1ft 8in) by 1 m (3ft 3in). It is part of the Watercress family. The most common variety is Tropaeolum majus. The peppery flowers are good in salads and pasta dishes. A 2009 study by the Universidad Nacional de Colombia identified the group of phenols or phenolic compounds in the pigments of orange and red flowers of Tropaeolum majus as anthocyanins. Anthocyanins, which are abundant in blueberries and red cabbage, help neutralise the damaging effects of free radicals, thereby helping to protect us from chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer. Anthocyanins are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer and antioxidant. Nasturtiums are high in Vitamin C, about 45 milligrams vitamin C per 100 grams, and also contain Vitamin A and flavonoids anti-oxidants like - carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin. They also contain Minerals like Iron, Calcium. Nasturtiums might not pack as much nutritional value as dandelions, but it sounds great to feed shrimp occasionally, to combat diseases due to it's antibiotic, antiseptic, and antifungal properties. I fed Nasturtium flowers to my shrimp in a similar fashion to Dandelions. Fresh and Blanched. The shrimp had very similar reactions. They ate it when the flowers were soft. Verdict: Another big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. I do have one shrimp that looks unwell. I'm keeping an eye to it to see if there are any improvements. I won't go into detailed reviews on the Rose, Pansies or Chrysanthemum flowers, as I couldn't find much information on it's nutritional value. But the results are very similar. There are dozens of other edible flowers that could be introduced to your shrimp as long as you take the necessary precautions on where you collect these flowers. Some other possibilities include: Daisies, Sunflowers, Daylilies, Violets, Tulips. Just a word of caution for anyone trying. Please stick to flowers we know are edible. If in doubt check this list. http://www.westcoast...edible-flowers/ Many flowers have antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities. If you have suspected recent bacterial issues with your shrimps lately, try feeding flowers and report back on your findings. These are some, and by no means the only, flowers that exhibit antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities:- Basil flowers, Bee Balm (Bergamot) flowers, Borage flowers, Echinacea flowers, Pot Marigold flowers, Chamomile flowers, Chrysanthemums flowers, Garlic flowers, Nasturtiums flowers, Onion flowers, Oregano flowers, Pansy flowers and Violet flowers. Please note - I am talking about the flowers here. So when you see Basil for example, that's the Basil flowers, not the leaves. Even-though the Basil leaves are edible, I cannot vouch for the leaves from some of these other flowers. If nothing else, this is another nutritious, natural food source for shrimps. My shrimps have shown to love eating flowers, and usually devour them within 1 to 2 days after placing in the tank. Hold the flowers down the same way you'd hold mulberry leaves or other plant foods down. While we are at it, it's probably best to name some flowers to AVOID, as these are considered poisonous. Primulas, Primroses, Polyanthus, Iris, Daffodils, Nghtshade, box wood, foxgloves, amaryllis, clematis, bryony, buttercups, begonia, columbine, lily of the valley, sweet pea, Brachycome, Nolana, Rudbeckia, periwinkle, oleander, dogbane, aconite.