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  1. It looks like the shrimp is about to moult. I don't keep Ghost shrimp, so I'm not too familiar with how they look when going into a moult. But the white band along each joint is common in other shrimp when they start to moult.
    2 points
  2. It could be he is starting to molt, the colour isn't in the shell but in the flesh and the molted shell will be clear. I also can't see anything else obviously wrong! The green may just be their colour or something they have eaten, as you stated. There are also some shrimp that can change colour, though I don't think these are those? Going green makes sense in a planted tank. Unless you are convinced there is something wrong I would just keep an eye oon them. Quarantining and treating with meds will stress them anyyway, which may kill them and so you think they were sick (but they were healthy ones you killed) and everything then gets into a mess, and then you may need meds for stress! Try not to over react as that can be worse for all the parties involved. Just be very vigilant for now and you can post here as much/often as you want. Have you checked the water parameters, if they aren't right it could be he is having problems molting?
    2 points
  3. If the supplier you are getting the shrimp from keeps them in GH3 and has said that is ok, but the generally accepted range is 4 - 6, so ideally 5 as that is mid range! As before though, there may not be a 1GH difference between GH3 and GH4, it is only a rough reading with the tester kits as they change colour in whole GH only, ie GH3 on the tester, could be GH3.2 water and a reading of GH4 on the tester, could be GH4.7 water, so it shows a 1GH increase on the tester but is 1.5GH difference in the water. I recommend aiming/keeping the GH4 and as long as you drip acclimate the shrimps to the new water over as many hours as you can you should be fine. At this point just try and keep the parameters constant as possible over the next week until the shrimp arrive! Once the shrimp are settled into the new tank (weeks) it will still be adviseable to very slowly increase you GH and TDS in to/closer to the mid ideal range, but that is for the future so we can come back to that at that point.
    2 points
  4. Because you said your TDS in the tank is 60. So if you want it to go up to 80 (or 100), you need to add more remineralising mix to the tank. Don't get too caught up with getting it exactly the same as the breeder. 80ish to 100ish TDS is close enough. Just get close. Water parameters will never stay the same. But they key is to maintain it at a constant/stable parameter. So if you aim for 80 or 100 TDS in your tank, it doesn't matter so much. Just keep it at that level for the long term.
    2 points
  5. Oh and yes the tank was cycled when i got it but im not sure to what degree it was maintained, the woman had young kids and it was being sold cause of upkeep difficulty. I also unfortunately had to do a massive water change bc they dropped 50% of the water out for transport and i read small changes are better
    2 points
  6. Great! That's what i initially thought about the color but i was afraid that the shrimp would get sick and then everyone would go. "Of course it's an infection, its gold stripe disease, rare and fatal if left untreated! Why did you wait!!" haha. i did read jayc's very thorough post and i appreciate him, i guess i just wanted confirmation. Idk how well they were taken care of before the weekend. Let's hope the gold strike carries through to the shrimplets Thanks again!
    2 points
  7. That's not rust disease. It has a unique colouration, but that's all it is. I'd keep the new shrimp at that colder temp of 66F, rather than heat the tank. Shrimp prefer the cold. Has the tank been cycled?
    2 points
  8. Where are you located? With tap water like what you have, you should be keeping Caridina too! That's amazingly low TDS for tap. It's almost pure water.
    2 points
  9. I'm not sure where you are based and it looks like JayC has you well covered! As JayC says don't mess about with the parameters too much until the tank has finished cycling, then you can get on with altering the parameters. Your water is quite good (hopefully no chlorine etc though) so I would think you can just raise the parameters using your water and adding some standard GH/KH+ shrimp mineraliser. I add gh/kh+ to dechlorinated tap water for my Betta tank! IF that doesn't work (but I am sure it should work fine) you can just buy a zerowater water filter jug to get RO equivalent water. That filter in the jug should last you very well as it is only removing 40ish TDS from your water. NeoCaridina ideal parameters, PH 6.5-7.5, TDS 150-250, GH 6-8, KH 1-4 and I think this should be attainable with your water plus gh/kh+, but these figures are ideal and a guide! The gh/kh+ is pre-set to produce these ideal figures/proportions when used with RO water.
    2 points
  10. @valpre welcome to SKFA. If you are setting this tank up for shrimp, I would not change the parameters. But you don't say what the tank is going to be for. They look ideal right now if you are keeping Caridina. But as you said, the tank is still cycling. Parameters could change after it is cycled, so test again and reassess the situation. KH is linked to pH. So you can't alter KH without also altering pH. But you don't need KH in a shrimp tank, even for Neo Caridina. They do fine with low KH. All my shrimp tanks are between the 0-1 KH range. The Neos also do fine with 3-4KH. I just find it easier maintaining all my tanks the same irrespective of Neo Caridina or Caridina. However, if you really need to, GH can be raised with Calcium sulphate and Magnesium sulphate (at 4:1 ratio) without altering pH. This is where the shrimp remineralising mixes are used by many to raise the GH and TDS of rain or RO water. And judging by your TDS of 47, it looks like you could use some remineralising products to increase GH and TDS a little. Note: you can get remineraliser products for Neo Caridina that also raise KH. So unless that is what you are after (for Neo Caridina), than be sure to pick the right product. If you can find some Montmorillonite clay, that could also be used for a slower increase to GH over time. But this is just an alternative, I'd just get a remineraliser mix to adjust the water parameters.
    2 points
  11. Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! I would think it would be better to remove the shrimp into the quarantine tank and keep them there whilst you treat the fish in the main tank and once you finish treating the tank and fish do a complete water change (maybe 2 a week apart for safety) before returning the shrimps. That would seem the best option though obviously the shrimp would need to be in the separate tank for weeks. I'm not aware of any medications available for ICH that won't kill shriimp and/or snails. With neocaridina they probably will just about survive 30 degrees but you are pushing it close to the limit! I don't believe ich affects shrimps.
    1 point
  12. Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.
    1 point
  13. Hi masters im back again. My other account got lock i dont know how to open it again, its automatically sign out and i cant open it. Ayways i have concern about the caridina water parameters. I mix our diy minerals in the tub with ro water with 80tds gh3-4 Then when i put the water into my tank the tds become lower its about 60tds and 3gh The question is, is that possible? And is that ok to caridina that kind of water parameter im bothering with my tds, before in my tub its 80 when i mix minerals then when i put the water into my tank it become lower the tds not 80 but it become 60tds. What should i do? The 2nd question is Im bother and confused that every hobbyist or breeder they have there own water parameters, for the caridina taiwan is 80tds. 6.5ph. gh 3-4 temp 24c - 23c, and other breeder in taiwan they have tds 100-150 ph 5.5-7 temp 23c 25 Then here in my place they have Tds 80-150 Ph5.5-6.5 Gh4-6 Temp 22c-26c Why every breeder or hobbyist have there own water parameters for caridina im very bother with that none specific water parameters is that good or not? Because im very confused Thank in advance masters
    1 point
  14. Thank you so much master i slowly understand the difference of crs and prl 🙏🙏🙏🙏
    1 point
  15. The PRL should be a perfect white and a pure red. I can't see any in your picture that aren't an orangey red but they do all look to have a very high quality white. The difference between the orangey red and pure red can be quite suttle with good quality CRS like yours and may not show well on photos? As they are mixed already there is probably little point in you fixating on it as you would be better just thinking you have 'high quality' CRS and leave it at that. The grades and patterns are the same for both types so that won't help you identify them either and I am pretty sure they must have originated from the same originals as well. Attached you can see a PRL, the red is very pure and the white very clean and bright white,
    1 point
  16. The problem is i mix the crs and prl in 1 tank 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ now im confused. Because one of my friend show me his crs , his crs is like the grade of my prl.. so that im confused i just relay in the stripe pattern of the crs and prl if the red stripes is more red i set it into crs if the rd stripes is lesser of more white i set it in prl...
    1 point
  17. Master plss help me im so confused right now 😭 what is the difference of CRS and PRL? Because they look like the same grade 😭
    1 point
  18. Because after this i want to keep Sulawesi. The update of my tank My galaxy tank i saw 2 dead. My crs and prl tank i saw 1 My blue bolt tank nothing
    1 point
  19. Thanks master ill update you again 🙏🙏🙏
    1 point
  20. Do i need to increase my gh?
    1 point
  21. When will i do water change?
    1 point
  22. Another shrimp has turned funny colors. I promise i reviewed jayc's list and googled but it doesnt seem to be muscular necrosis bc its not opaque. The four ghost shrimp in my planted 10g have all turned green in spots I'm assuming either from eating a bunch of algae or their true colors coming, but one has gone white at the edges. I thought maybe when he disappeared a few days ago he was molting, but he's back, unchanged. It doesn't seem to me like muscular necrosis because it didn't start at the tail move up and opaque out his body, and he's active as ever. I thought maybe a bacterial infection but it doesn't seem to be exactly matching, he gained green and isnt appearing opaque, like hes still clearish, and isnt acting sick. Like I said, he was hiding for a while, I'm going to go to the store in the morning and see what they offer for medicine and quarantine him (or all??) Any thoughts? The colored shrimp (red neo, yellow neo, black something or other) seem to be fine. Included one of the healthy ones for comparison. Im assuming hes sick.
    1 point
  23. Hooray! I was hoping it was molt but he hasnt progressed at all in about a week. Thank you guys so much for your help again. Ill keep an eye out.
    1 point
  24. What Caridina needs to molt? Is that the minerals? Or the food?
    1 point
  25. You mean if the water in the tank got evaporated you use only RO WATER?
    1 point
  26. How to water change masters? Do i need to mix again the minerals or its ok just ro water?
    1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. I have questions masters What minerals that increases the gh? Is that the calcium sulfate, magnesium or potassium?
    1 point
  29. I add minerals on my tank and its now around 80tds and the gh is 4 now if i still add minerals on it and make it 100tds theres posible the gh will become 5gh. Is that ok that i set it in around 80?
    1 point
  30. The remineraliser you are using for will increase GH. And since it's easier to measure TDS with a TDS pen, we ask you to raise TDS to a certain point to get (close) to the desired GH. SO yes, TDS is important. But so is GH, KH, pH and temperature. The point is not one parameter is more important than another. They all work together to get to the right parameter for shrimp or fish. If anyone tells you that one parameter is more important than the others, RUN away.
    1 point
  31. Yes its rams horn snail 20pcs gfb boa genes s 20pcs blue bolt ss 20pcd PRL My temp now is around 25 to 26 😅 hoping they survive 😅 I dont have indian almond leaves but i can get here in the roads 😅 bacter ae i dong have , food yes i have and i have also mulberry trees here hehe so i can get leaf's there hehe for food source also hehe
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. You are well out of my expertise if you want to go deeper into tds, it stands for 'total disolved solids' and therefore is what is disolved in the water as regards, metals, minerals etc. Why different types of shrimp need different quantities is beyond my knowledge, I just accept the fact! This is why I buy specific shrimp products like gh/kh+ as I let the experts get the balances correct. Obviously tds is easier to adjust as you are dealing with a different scale than gh, but by increasing the tds it will also increase the gh, but maybe not enough to show up on a gh test as it may be only say from 3.1 to 3.3 but the test kits only show whole numbers (so both would show gh 3 on a gh test kit), that is why it is more sensible to just use tds at this point, and that is easier to test anyway if you have a tds pen/meter.
    1 point
  34. Why i need to increase the tds? Im so very confused right now masters. Because taiwan said that gh 3 - 4 80 tds I have many questions in my mind right now.. 😔
    1 point
  35. Well, that's the reason the overall TDS in the tank is lower. Yes. Add a little bit at a time until you get it to 100 TDS.
    1 point
  36. How will i raise my tds master? Do i need to put some minerals again to increase tds? But im thinking of the gh..
    1 point
  37. Yes its 9 tds No i dont have carbon in my tank
    1 point
  38. Does the water in the tank have a lower TDS? Are you using activated carbon?
    1 point
  39. As per JayC, that is part of its colour, some call it a 'go faster stripe' and it looks really great and I don't see anything to worry about. The shrimp that died may have been the increase in temperature from 66 to 78 as I imagine that happened quite quickly in such a small tank (although they would usually be ok at 78), so may have stressed that shrimp too much! Hopefully the other shrimp will be ok but keep an eye on them. Also as per JayC, the shrimp should be fine at 66 degrees. Foodwise, you really shouldn't need much, maybe none, with so few shrimps, so if you are feeding bear that in mind, you should just probably feed very little every now and then AS A TREAT as there should be enough biofilm in the tank. You need to revisit this when the colony grows of course. Often shrimp will make a bee line for added food IF they are hungry but show little interest in added food if they aren't hungry as there is enough biofilm. Welcome to the forum by the way!
    1 point
  40. My tap water is similar to yours. I tried adding coral sand to increase GH and KH but i just couldn't seem to get the neos to thrive. Until i started adding GH and KH remineralizers. That's when the population exploded.
    1 point
  41. (Edit): Forgot to mention what I'm keeping lol. I'm looking at starting a colony of neocaridina shrimp, sakura/fire red to be more specific and am in desperate need of assistance when it comes to water parameters. I have a 60L (15 gallon) tank set up at the moment, its bare bottomed with 3 pieces of driftwood, all with moss attached to them as well as an Indian almond leaf. The water parameters for the tank are; pH: 6.8 kH: 0-1 gH: 3 TDS: 47 I haven't listed ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as the tank is newly set up and currently cycling. I've been doing a lot of research and everywhere says that both my gH and kH need to be a bit higher. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what is the best way to increase both the gH and kH without raising the pH too much.
    1 point
  42. My apologies @jayc I completely forgot! I've edited the original post now but I was planning on keeping neocaridina's, sakura/fire red specifically. Thanks for all the advice, I've been looking at getting the shrimp salts to increase the gH and kH but nobody had mentioned adding it to tap water, only RO or distilled so I wasn't sure if it was even an option. Thanks again!
    1 point
  43. As far as I can tell, yes, it's just aesthetic. Not much you can do to improve on their condition. I'd recommend culling them. And replace them from a different breeder. Thereby improving on your gene pool. Or move them to another tank, to avoid them breeding and passing the defect on. If you want to keep them, just treat them normally.
    1 point
  44. so when i look at it in person, it does not just look like a “clear shell” , but looks like somethings exposed , i originally though the shell was becoming “clear” but no , it’s definitely an exposed gills or organs. when i first got them there was 0 sign of any defect but as a new shrimp keeper , i wouldn’t have known what to look for . but as they get older, i have 2 out of 20 that i bought , where i can clearly see the open skirt defect. i bought most of them as juvies all before breeding age. they haven’t started breeding. unfortunarely i think on some of them smaller ones, i’m seeing a thin white line developing where the carapace meets the tail section. it’s hard for me to believe that the breeder who said he’s been breeding for years and imported these from germany, did not know of these defects. like i said, i hope they will not suffer at all and live a relatively normal life. from what i’m seeing this is mostly an aesthetic issue unless it gets worse? i’m not too sure as i couldn’t find much literature on it. could anyone shine more light on this?
    1 point
  45. Short skirt, Open skirt, those are just some of the common names for this genetic condition. It's where the carapace does not cover the entire body and exposes part of the gills/internal organs. We see a lot of it with shrimp here in Australia. Our borders are closed to new shrimp from being imported. That means no new genetics. So the shrimps we already have in the country are from a very small gene pool. The shrimp itself can be healthy otherwise and live a long life. But if it breeds and passes those genes along, the next generation could have this same problem as well.
    1 point
  46. Hi @crustaceanfrustration, that is definitely Short Skirt genetic defect. Unfortunately, there isn't much anyone can do about it to improve the condition, except to not let it keep breeding and carrying forward those genes.
    1 point
  47. thank you so much for the quick reply! any help at the moment is very much appreciated. so doing more research and asking reputable breeders, i was told it could be a “short skirt or carapace” and or an “open carapace”. they are as active as they can be , grazing and eating, swimming normally and doing shrimp things. haven’t had a single one die on me yet( or any i could see, maybe they gobbled them up before i saw) i’m just worried that they’re suffering and i can’t do anything about it. I use RODI with Salthy shrimp gh/kh+, something might be up with my salts because even with the right measurements i get 9 gh/ 3 kh . i was hoping for 8/4 but i am happier with consistency rather than perfect parameters. they are pretty close to what the “breeder” kept them at. i am also kind of annoyed because if this is the genetic defect that causes short skirt or open carapace. i can’t believe the breeder saying they know nothing about this and have never seen it in their shrimp. these are my first aquatic pets and i feel like i got taken advantage of. i have more pictures and videos if that would help! any more insight on this would be great , and if this is something i can help, i am open to all and any suggestions! if ifs just an aesthetic issue, i will do the right thing and never give these to anyone or sell them. i just want my shrimp to live a happy life. thank you everyone who sees this and can help!
    1 point
  48. Are you planning a planted only aquarium, no livestock! Different types of plants may have differing requirements (red plants is an example)! If you are planning to keep shrimps in the planted aquarium then you are best not using any fertilizer, the waste from the inhabitants is usually enough, and fertilizers can be very detrimental with shrimps? I would say that you should only need to consider fertilizer in a 'plant only' setup, but even then it may not be needed if using a soil type substrate, depending on the plants? Also fertilizer will encourage quicker growth which will require more maintenance time as everything grows much faster, so bare that in mind as well! My tanks all have fish and shrimps and I don't use any fertilizer but am weekly trimming/discarding plants.
    1 point
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