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  1. Tank is 40 gallons good news… no deaths since the original post. Fingers crossed this trend continues. i was able to get the right water chemistry needed with a mix of tap and distilled. Plan going forward, Slowly lowering the TDS and GH in hopes of saving these little guys. Small increments at a time every 3-4 days with 5-10% water changes. Hoping to get the entire tank down to the right parameters over several weeks.
    3 points
  2. It entirely depends on what you’re keeping in the tank. This isn’t possible. One of your readings is incorrect, and I’d assume it’s probably the TDS. Are you using a TDS meter to test that? To elaborate - when you test GH and KH with the API kit, you are testing for dGH and dKH. The d stands for degree. One degree of hardness - GH or KH - is equivalent to 17.9ppm. Now, KH and GH both contribute to your TDS, your total dissolved solids. So if we have 17.9 * 11 GH and 17.9 * 5 KH, that’s 197ppm GH and 90ppm KH. Which, added together, equals 287ppm. This value should be included within the TDS, and therefore the TDS value should probably be above 300 (due to other dissolved minerals and such that aren’t recorded in GH and KH tests). Hope that’s helpful.
    3 points
  3. Hi team! I hope you have a great 2022. Check out how its all going
    3 points
  4. I mixed RODI the other day to 200 TDS. I did my water change today, 10% (about a gallon) and slowly dripped it in. I believe the tank TDS has raised to 219 by last night. The TDS measured has raised to 222 after I slow dripped half gallon of mixed water into the tank. I was concerned so I stopped and now have it at straight RODI water. I hope that is ok and not cause any issues? I noticed some of my shrimp zooming around, some of the older, larger ones. I think I saw a female with green eggs earlier in the day but I haven't seen her since. Then there are some still picking away on the sponge filter. I think I'll have to test it. Nothing happened during the original vinegar test but can never be too sure, especially if the parameters are changing. Thanks! This is not my first planted tank but it is my first planned from the ground up aquascape. I wasn't sure how it would all come out but overall, I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Just need to get that filamentous algae under control. I was able to add in the dwarf water lettuce last night.
    3 points
  5. Great idea! Please document your journey here. I have no experience with marine shrimps, so cannot help you. But what you have listed above seems like a sound plan to get started.
    2 points
  6. I have an idea. And considering I’m terrible at being concise, I’m sure it’s gonna take me a while to explain it. Essentially, I want to do a nano marine rockpool tank, with just crustaceans and molluscs (and perhaps a seastar or two). And I really don’t know how plausible it is, but I’m pretty intent on finding out. I don’t know if anyone here has any experience with marine shrimp, but I figured I may as well see if any of the Aussies here are familiar with the shrimp I want to keep. So this species of shrimp is actually the species that got me into the hobby! I found them on a camping trip, and they were just so active and engaging, and I just fell in love. Then I went home, did a bunch of research, and got an aquarium. They’re part of the reason why I’m so interested in shrimp. Now I’m on holidays again (in a different place in Vic) and they’re everywhere in the tide pools. Millions. The species is ‘palaemon serenus’, the red-handed shrimp, and they grow to about 6cm for big females (which I discovered last night) and I think 3-4 for males. Just from observation. They live primarily in colonies of 10-30 under rocks during the day, venturing out when they feel safe, and going everywhere once it gets dark. They’re omnivorous, eating pretty much everything they can get their little claws on (including my fingers and toes). They look rather like freshwater macrobrachium, to be honest. I’ve had a look and it’s legal to collect from this location. There aren’t limits on anything I want to collect. So, I’m thinking I’d do a 20 litre tank for the meantime (until I can get some awesome 30ish litre low-boy tank). I’ve got one at home that could be set up as soon as I’m back. If I take home a big rock and sand, then I should have beneficial bacteria sorted, as well as a food source. The rock would have plants and a bit of algae and all the other good stuff you find on the rocks they like. Other than using salt for water changes, I’d run the tank like a freshwater tank - sponge filter for filtration, freshwater light, no heater, fortnightly or monthly water changes. I’d love to add a couple little fish if I can catch them, but I have no idea how to identify whether they’ll grow or not. Same deal with the majority of crabs (although I have ID’d a few species that would work). And unfortunately no nudibranch either… although I found the CUTEST little one last night. They’re apparently super specialist in terms of diet, and I don’t have the time to observe one for hours to see what it eats, ID it, work out how to cultivate it, and all that. So, that’s the plan. I would love any advice, recommendations, or criticisms you have. I understand there’s a good chance this could be too ambitious, and the well-being of the animals is number 1 priority, so if it sounds like it’s a bad idea then I’ll just scrap it. But I’m pretty keen on finding out a way to make this work.
    2 points
  7. Thats fantastic news, I would leave it where it is for a few more days to be sure and make it easier to keep an eye on it! I know the indian almond leaves have some antibacteria properties (?) maybe you should put a few in the main tank as it won't do any harm and may help. The tannin rich water won't be too difficult to clear with water changes at a later date either.
    2 points
  8. my first shrimp seems like recovered , my malachite green still in shipping so i did aquarium salt dip every other day i put 3 sick shrimp in seperate bowl 1 shrimp couldn't make it on first day (maybe shock from transferring) the second shrimp still alive but still same not changes anything i put several indian almond leaves in their bowl its makes heavily brown water like a tea. everyday i dip the shrimp in aquarium salt bath for every 3-4 mins (1 spoons of aquarium salt with 350ml water) today i noticed my first shrimp didn't have any green/yellow spot even the black spot already disappeared , is it safe to put the shrimp in main tank now? or i should quarantine for several days?
    2 points
  9. That's rust disease. Looks like the bacteria has eaten through the carapace.
    2 points
  10. Treat the infected shrimp outside the main tank.
    2 points
  11. I would just treat the quarantine tank first and see if that is effective in the treatment. I have that malachite green and it will seriously stain everything it comes into contact with, so wear gloves and be very careful. If it works successfully then consider doing the main tank later if you are still seeing sick shrimp in it, but it may result in you having to redoing the tank once you have treated it.
    2 points
  12. Very pleased to hear you haven't had any more deaths, just be aware though that it may happen until everything is settled with the water, but you can aim to prevent it as much as possible. My oldest tank has bloody mary (neocaridina) in it and I mix 50/50 tap water and filtered water, and have done 5+ years so your mixture option SHOULD work! I'm not sure if you are a numbers person or not, but if you do 5% water changes twice a week with the 50/50 mix you will be months, possibly even up to a year until you get the aquarium to where those parameters are where you want them. I would go for 10% each water change (and you could do that once a week) with 100% distilled water DRIPPED into the tank, the shrimps should be fine with this as this would happen in the wild as rain fall which is just water with low/nil TDS. Every subsequent change will actually reduce the difference less as the water you extract each time has a lower TDS than the previous water that was removed so doing too small but more often changes will actually take a LOT longer than I think you realise! Doing this method with pure distilled water of 10% aquarium capacity) should go, starting aquarium tds 600 (est) 1st 10% change tank tds 540 (tds 10% lower than before, ie 600-60) 2nd 10% change tank tds 486 (tds 10% lower than before, ie 540-54) 3rd 10% change tank tds 438 (tds 10% lower than before, ie 486-48) 4th 10% change tank tds 394 (tds 10% lower than before, ie 438-44) 5th 10% change tank tds 354 (tds 10% lower than before, ie 394-40) So after about a month/6 weeks you will be near enough there. Then maybe start changing with the 50/50 mix you propose. Hope this makes sense? Basically doing 5% twice a week will take forever as you are reducing the tds in such small increments each time, though if you feel happier doing it thay way it will work, just take a lot longer and involve extra work! These figures are unlikely to happen exactly the same as your tank of course, due to all the variables, but just show how it should roughly go. Just for info, if you did one 50% (same quantity as above ie 5x10%) in one go obviously the tds would go from 600 to 300 (as opposed to 354 above), just so you can see how the smaller and more frequent the changes don't reduce the tds as much, though obviously with shrimp in the tank it wouldn't work doing one huge 50% change........ Sorry for the mega post, hope it makes sense though??? edit - just done other figures 10 changes of 5% with distilled water end Tds 360, so same time and water as above but twice as many changes. Not that much in it between mentioned and your original proposal so take you pick, dependant on how many changes you want to do and the water available, maybe better to do 3-4 day 5% distilled water changes? 10 changes of 5% with 50/50 tap water/distilled water end tds 466.
    2 points
  13. Well done. good to hear you are starting towards getting the high GH and TDS under control.
    2 points
  14. I imagine the fertilizer adds TDS also. I wouldn't use plant fertilizers with shrimps it usually doesn't go well long term and probably 90% of the time isn't needed anyway. If you do eed fertilizer then use the minimum you can, if foor instance you have an inert substrate such as sand or gravel! Otherwise JayC has it covered, with evaporation and using pure RO water for topping up between maintenance. It looks/sounds like you are doing well so try not to get too fixated on exact TDS numbers. If you want to reduce the TDS from 220 to 200 then when you do your next 10% water change just use pure RO water dripped in to the tank. This isn't as extreme as it may sound, after all that is what would happen in the wild when it rains!
    2 points
  15. The reason this is happening is partially due to evaporation. Water evaporates and leaves behind minerals, thereby raising the TDS. Your next water change adds a bit more minerals, and the TDS slowly creeps up. The cycle continues as more water evaporates. Over time, TDS is way above the stating point of 212. Of course there are other factors that influence TDS level creep. There are a few things to minimise it. Continue your weekly 10% water change. Use pure RO to top up tanks. Once a year 100% water change. This resets the minerals in the tank. Not a good idea. High levels of Nitrate is detrimental to shrimps. Try to keep low light plants in a shrimp tank. That way, you don't need high light and fertilisers.
    2 points
  16. C. Typus are supposed to be distributed as far south as NSW, and as far north as NT. However, no one has reported catching one that we know of further south than NE QLD.
    2 points
  17. Yes one for GH and one for KH. Thanks for the help and piece of mind it’s extremely appreciated
    2 points
  18. Those figures look good, as does the TDS, they all have room to increase with time but I would stick with them for now. The TDS is more likely to be the 163 (PPM) but either are fine anyway so I would use the meter/pen one each time! It looks like everything is well from the photos and lots of juvenile shrimp? The light substrate works well with those dark colour shrimps. I assume there are 2 separate tests in the API box, one for KH and another for GH?
    2 points
  19. Those values are fine, keep it at or close to those targets. It's simpler to everyone to use PPM on the TDS meter. So stick to that when quoting TDS, unless you want to write µS/cm each time you mention microsiemens.
    2 points
  20. The test kit just says GH&KH and here’s two picture’s of the little guys
    2 points
  21. You need to have a keen eye for API test kits. The colour change can be subtle and difficult to detect. Use a pure white background. Looking down through the opening of the test tube can be easier to detect the colour change.
    2 points
  22. Yeah that’s a reading from the tds/ppm meter thanks for the information This is my first time using the gh kh test and to be completely honest the instructions were pretty poor. I found a very short video on how to use but again information was poor. I’m going to do it all again tomorrow. I need to get it right. Thanks for your help
    2 points
  23. Tank looks great and good to see the ember tetras and blue shrimp also doing well! Happy 2022 to you and everyon that reads this also. Simon
    2 points
  24. A few days ago I stocked my new but fully cycled 9 gallon planted tank. I purchased Bloody Mary variety from a "local" seller (about an hour away). They use local tap water, which is very hard but I opted to go with RODI since I have copper pipes. I remineralize with salty shrimp GH/KH to the recommended level of 6 dGH and 3 dKH and currently around 212 TDS. After looking at various sources online, this was within spec of keeping neocaridina shrimp. I slowly drip acclimated them to my tank and they seem to be doing ok, one has molted already. I did have a concern about one of my shrimp so I contacted the breeder. I let them know my water parameters and now they tell me from their experience, they won't breed successfully unless it's at least 10 dGH. I am not sure what to do at this point. Do I slowly try to raise the GH by buying Bee Shrimp mineral (GH) only and mix it with the Salty Shrimp with RODI and drip acclimate it in during the water change? I am assuming this is going to take weeks to months. Or do I just wait and see what happens? I purchased 10 (+2) shrimp from them and wanted to grow my own colony. Preferably sooner than later.
    2 points
  25. It will be a good idea to test the rock as crabby suggested. I see from the photo of the tank that it has no cover and that may mean you are gettng quite a bit of evaporation, which will raise the TDS as evaporation is purely water. Top ups should be pure RO water to correct this. Adding new/clean water usually encourages activity like molts and breeding etc - in nature I assume that is what happens after rainfall! I hope you see more carrying eggs and soon get some shrimplets and pleased to not hear of any deaths this far! I have had algae when setting up new tanks but it has always died off/vanished once the tank is stable and has been running a few months.
    2 points
  26. I’m in agreement with Simon and Jayc here. Definitely best to go with parameters that are easier to maintain. Success with shrimp is most often found through consistency. If it’s easy enough, I’d encourage you to take out the smallest piece of tiger stone and test if it raises pH. Get 2 plastic containers, fill both with the same amount of water, and put the tiger stone in one of them. Then measure pH in both (just to be sure), and wait a week or two before measuring again. On another note, that tank looks great!
    2 points
  27. Ok, thanks. I will do this. I haven't heard about this before until I've seen it in the store. This is what I purchased. Supposedly the bag label says they are from China. The store page doesn't show you exactly what the rock looks like though. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/imagitarium-turtle-terrain-tiger-stripe-rocks They look like this. https://www.myaquariumclub.com/i-bought-some-tiger-rock-from-dollar-tree-and-wanted-to-know-if-they-where-...-725499.html How they look like in my tank, before I let it grow and age. https://imgur.com/hbzmmRo
    2 points
  28. EC to TDS conversion factor of NaCl is usually the one to use.
    2 points
  29. I have a 9 gallon low tech planted shrimp tank. I currently have 12 bloody mary (neocaridina) with a horned nerite snail. They appear to be doing well so far and a couple of females are berried and no deaths, so I must be doing something alright. I'm on my 3rd water change (once per week) but I have been wanting to do a minimum of every other week but have been afraid of the rising TDS. I know TDS rising is expected, especially since I fertilize twice a week. Nitrates are really low right now, around 5ppm at most after fertilizing twice a week. I'm not sure how to handle the water change process. My tank started around 212 TDS, I use RODI with salty shrimp GH/KH (inert substrate). TDS is around 220+ before I did my water changes, which is weekly so far. However when I add in salty shrimp mixed water to my tank, the TDS stays around that 220 ppm or higher. That is where I am confused, how do I reduce TDS through water changes if I am only raising it each time? Or do I let TDS rise to a set limit and then start lowering it then? Currently during these water changes, I remove about 10% and I slow dripped in half gallon of mixed salty shrimp water and then half gallon of straight RODI after to cut the TDS back down and to not raise the GH and KH further. I am trying to keep it at 6/7 dGH and 4 dKH and I measure during water changes. Everything I've read online says to just add in remineralized water into the tank but doesn't address the rising TDS content with each water change. I feel like I'm completely missing something here. Am I over complicating it and should only reduce TDS as needed? Should I not be afraid to let TDS raise and allow nitrates to build up for my plants? Side note, is it safe to add in KNO3 to help raise the nitrates for my plants or will it be detrimental to my shrimps and incoming shirmplets?
    1 point
  30. Thanks! I've been worried for some time. My tank is stable, albeit still young, and the shrimp have been happy. All the shrimp poop is getting converted into mulm fast. I was afraid this was something that will take over the tank and destroy it. I'm hoping it will go away soon. It's rather unsightly and it gives the shrimp a little more room to forage. I forgot to mention but when I do siphon it out, it smells horrific. Like sulfur or rotten eggs. I was guessing it was something in line (fungus) with the stuff that grew on the spiderwood, it smelled just as bad and similar.
    1 point
  31. Not an uncommon sight to see fungus growth in a new cycling tank. A lack of green chlorophyll indicates that it is not algae that photosynthesis food. It's a fungus that is eating whatever nutrients are leeching off wood or the substrate. You should be able to just leave it and let it die out once biofilm grows in the tank. If you have another tank, squeeze the filter media into this tank to help speed up the Beneficial Bacteria growth.
    1 point
  32. Only used disc's buffer and regulator the once. The regulator kept taking the Ph up to 7 as it claimed it did. Even Seachem USA didn't explain very well even though I was telling them I wanted a Ph in the low 6's. I saw the TDS going up so stopped using both. I haven't added anything in the way of remineralizers since that first dose just straight RO. The TDS just climbs of its own accord. I think it must be just the Amazonia V2 giving me the headache. Maybe its the secondary additional pellets they included in the Amazonia mix. I haven't tried Disc's buffer alone at this stage and at the moment can't see the need. The Ph seems to be about right and is holding steady at 5.8 to 6.0 happy with that its been stable for days now. Ammonia is 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate is very slightly up but not excessive. KH is 0, GH is 3 or slighly above. No rocks only 2 small pieces of wood that came out of my PRL holding tank. These 2 pieces of wood I tested for 24 hours in a bucket with no TDS increase. I have done numerous and I mean numerous straight RO water changes daily for several times now. I can get it down to around TDS 115 mark with the changes but it creeps up overnight again and keeps going up daily. Tank has been running for about 6 weeks minimum and was seeded with substrate about 4 weeks ago from an established older tank (years old).
    1 point
  33. It is these chemical above that are increasing TDS. Anytime you add chemicals/minerals, it increases TDS. Preferably try to obtain a GH+ (not GH/KH+) remineralise for RO water, don't rely on Buffer and Regulator. This option has the extra benefit of no additional phosphates (Discus buffer and Regulator is a phosphate based buffer). EG, https://www.bossaquaria.com.au/shrimp-king-bee-salt-gh/ https://aqualabs.com.au/products/saltyshrimp-bee-shrimp-gh-110g https://nanotanksaustralia.com.au/product/shrimp-king-bee-salt-gh/ If you prefer, use the Discus buffer but leave out the Regulator. Amazonia + RO water should in theory give you very low pH levels by itself. Do you have any rocks in the tank? Rocks increase KH, pH and TDS. I assume you have tried Amazonia+RO water by itself without the added chemicals and have not been able to reduce pH. Is that right? A tank will naturally gravitate towards Acidic, as beneficial bacteria breaks down ammonia, where a buffering agent (like rocks or shells or calcium carbonates) are present in low amounts. Is your tank mature and cycled? If you can provide answers to the questions above, we should be able to help you figure something out.
    1 point
  34. cool thanks! guess i'll keep trying the oregano oil and hydrogen peroxide ;_; fingers crossed
    1 point
  35. yeah im already bought malachite green , im still keep an eye to other shrimps ( already seperate 3 suspected shrimps) for shrimp babies i dont know if they're infected or not should i dose melechite inside my tank? i have heavily planted tank in this case
    1 point
  36. Found a great youtube video on Hydra.
    1 point
  37. Hi! New here! im looking for some advice as my neo’s keep dying off one at a time. details: purchased 2 breeder packs is Red Rili from Aquatic Arts. And a few assorted from the local fish store. Tank is planted/driftwood/almond leaf and fully cycled chemicals used: brightwell shrimp prep, brightwell black water, Sechem Flourish water parameters: KH 4 GH 20 TDS ranges from 600-700 PH 7.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5ppm I understand that my GH and TDS is high and this might be the cause. However I’m having a very difficult time reducing both of these. Unfortunately RO water isn’t accessible to me at the moment and my tap water measures very close to aquarium test results. any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!! I do have a couple of females already berried. Would love to ensure the babies survival.
    1 point
  38. Hi All, I'm new to the forum and interested in keeping Caridina typus. https://biocache.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Caridina+typus#tab_mapView A quick search on ALA (link^) shows that C. typus distribution in Australia is restricted to NE QLD although the species is found across Southern Africa, SE Asia, Japan etc. So I wonder if the distribution in Australia is possibly larger than the records show? My question is, have any of you collected C. typus in other parts of QLD further south than Mackay? Possibly as far down as Brisbane area? And any info about the habitat you collected from, photos etc? Thanks a lot, Jim
    1 point
  39. Good question Jim! @jayc will be the one to know, or will know who to try to direct you to.
    1 point
  40. First MERRY CHRISTMAS hope you’re all having a great time. For Christmas I received a master test kit for my aquarium I’ve done the tests on my bigger aquarium and they have given me the extra piece of mind knowing that the water is correct however I’m struggling to work out how to use the gh and kh drops test I’m thinking it’s 5ml aquarium water and then I start adding some drops until the water turns green so if it turns green at 8 drops you have roughly 140ppm if it changes green at 12 your ppm is 200. Does anyone know if that’s correct. Or can anyone give or tell me where to get better instructions as the instructions that came are very poor. Thanks for any help
    1 point
  41. Hey guys HAPPY NEW YEAR to you all. So I’ve done the api gh/kh drops test a few times now to get used to it so after doing it a few times and getting the same results which are KH-6 and GH-11 so I did a 50% water change and I’ve left it overnight and taken new test today and now I have a reading of KH-4 and GH-6 so I get a value of 179 when added but I’m having trouble understanding which reading on my tds meter to use. Example when I use the meter now I get a ppm reading of 163 as in first pic but that’s under my test reading. The meter has another mode and it gives a reading of 326 us/cm see second pic. Crabby mentioned that my value should be higher than my test reading because of other stuff in the water waste ect so I’m now unsure of what I’m doing wrong if I’m looking at the wrong mode on the meter or what. If you know what or have any thoughts/idea’s on what I’m doing wrong I’m all ears. Thanks for your time
    1 point
  42. Doesn't seem to be too much for you to be concerned about. Just keep an eye on them. Sounds like shrimp just having fun.
    1 point
  43. Mine head straight to the top after I do a water top up after I have neglected the tank for a bit. Maybe its feeding on the older dried out algae. After a few days they go down again.
    1 point
  44. Thx For info Hammy
    1 point
  45. Water parameters are as follows this was done last night. Ammonia- 0 Nitrite - 0 nitrates - is between 0 - 0.5 ( it's not high) kH - 1 gH - 1 TDS - 135 Temp - 21 degrees. Thank you. It's only something i have started seeing in the last few weeks. It's not all the shrimp but maybe one or two .
    1 point
  46. What might be successful for one breeder, might not be successful for another. There are more than one way of being successful in breeding shrimp. Since the big difference is the water type being used, I too would stick to the 6GH, 3KH and 212 TDS for the Neo shrimp you have. These parameters have been proven successful for many, many people. Even the RO remineralisers are built to produce these parameters says something. If you find the shrimp are not breeding for you after 3 months, just start swapping their water changes with dechlorinated tap water ... easy. To be honest, I'm surprised the shrimp breed for that breeder at all in such hard water. It would be interesting to see the chemical composition of Indiana's ground water. It must not be Calcium that is making the ground water hard.
    1 point
  47. Wow that is extreme, I would stick to your original plan. Even if you did match their GH the 2 waters would be different as you are using RO water and they are using tap water. I definitely don't recommend messing about with those high parameters or even your existing parameters, keep it stable and consistant, and give it some time! I have bloody mary shrimp and mine are around GH4/KH1/TDS 158 (when last testeed 2 years ago) and breed like crazy, albeit they are old stock now so mostly wild type unfortunately. It probably wasn't too good an idea to buy from someone thats parameters are so out of whack but you have them now so fingures crossed they do well. By using RO water with salty shrimp the water should be ideal for 'normal' shrimp. They breed from about 3 months so as you don't know how old they are there shouldn't be a great wait!
    1 point
  48. I managed to figure it out. In the instruction man it says to use NaCI or KCI for an aquarium or reef. My two older TDS meters are very similar around 130 to 140 theres about 10 PPM between them. The new one i received today was 50 PPM. I've bought one for around £45 that can be calibrated so i hope i get a more accurate reading. Thank you for your reply. Have a good Christmas . 🙂
    1 point
  49. An initial large water change of 50% is probably required to get rid of as much built up waste as possible. Then drip back in the water matched to ideal parameters for your shrimp. You can maintain it thereafter with a 3L (5%) to 6L (10%) fortnightly water change - depending on TDS readings. Even if they don't breed over winter, the regular water changes can't do any harm.
    1 point
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