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Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! I would think it would be better to remove the shrimp into the quarantine tank and keep them there whilst you treat the fish in the main tank and once you finish treating the tank and fish do a complete water change (maybe 2 a week apart for safety) before returning the shrimps. That would seem the best option though obviously the shrimp would need to be in the separate tank for weeks. I'm not aware of any medications available for ICH that won't kill shriimp and/or snails. With neocaridina they probably will just about survive 30 degrees but you are pushing it close to the limit! I don't believe ich affects shrimps.

Fairly new to keeping shrimp, currently got 10 bloody mary shrimp. Hope to keep learning about them as I keep them.

Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.

Thank you so much master i slowly understand the difference of crs and prl 🙏🙏🙏🙏

The PRL should be a perfect white and a pure red. I can't see any in your picture that aren't an orangey red but they do all look to have a very high quality white. The difference between the orangey red and pure red can be quite suttle with good quality CRS like yours and may not show well on photos? As they are mixed already there is probably little point in you fixating on it as you would be better just thinking you have 'high quality' CRS and leave it at that. The grades and patterns are the same for both types so that won't help you identify them either and I am pretty sure they must have originated from the same originals as well. Attached you can see a PRL, the red is very pure and the white very clean and bright white,

The problem is i mix the crs and prl in 1 tank 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ now im confused. Because one of my friend show me his crs , his crs is like the grade of my prl.. so that im confused i just relay in the stripe pattern of the crs and prl if the red stripes is more red i set it into crs if the rd stripes is lesser of more white i set it in prl...

The grading is the same for both but PRL have been only bred with other PRL of highest quality for generation to produce a better quality red and purer white (CRS can be blotchy and a creamy white when lesser quality) and if kept with only PRL that should continue. The colour and depth of colour should be greater with PRL than CRS, being redder whereas CRS can be more of an orange red and be a bit more blotchy in the white! Mixing the 2 types means you lose the PRL lineage but you should still get beautiful coloured/pattern shrimps, it just means they are no longer PURE of LINE. This only really matters if you plan to sell the offspring as they can't be called PRL but only sold as CRS, even if they look like PRL, as they may produce offspring of lower quality due to the mixed genes. If you are just a hobbyist who isn't planning to sell PRL it doesn't really matter and the chances are the PRL crossing with CRS will produce nicer higher grade shrimp! From your photo though all your shrimp are of such good quality I couldn't tell which is which? So just enjoy them for whatever they are would be my advice!

Master plss help me im so confused right now 😭 what is the difference of CRS and PRL? Because they look like the same grade 😭

It looks like the deaths are dropping which will hopefully continue! There are products that will give ideal parameters for sulawesi shrimps using RO water. That would be the best and easiest way to do that tank. So you would do exactly the same as the current tanks except use a different remineraliser. Here is a link to a couple (you should be able to get from ebay or amazon) but there are others out there also; https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/shrimp-king/686-shrimp-king-sulawesi-mineral-ghkh-200g-4001615061505.html?search_query=sulawesi&results=28 https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/salty-shrimp/183-salty-shrimp-sulawesi-mineral-85-250g-4260290710423.html?search_query=sulawesi&results=28

Because after this i want to keep Sulawesi. The update of my tank My galaxy tank i saw 2 dead. My crs and prl tank i saw 1 My blue bolt tank nothing

You shouldn't need to do anything with your PH when using soil substrate, RO water and remineraliser - why do you ask this question? What are your tanks PH running at (don't take readings first thing in the morning)? Hope you haven't lost any/many more of your new shrimps!

For beginners and smaller tanks, I recommend glass aquariums because of their affordability and scratch resistance. For larger, more advanced aquariums, we recommend acrylic because it's lighter and easier to repair than glass.

Masters can i use alum to lower the ph of my water? And can i use baking soda to higher the ph?

Thanks master ill update you again 🙏🙏🙏

I would just keep things as constant as possible for the near future so the new water matches the old water, though tds doesn't need to match exactly, so best aim for slightly over rather than under as the tds is low and once mixed with the tank water it will hardly notice due to dilution with the tank water! Give the shrimp a chance to get used to it as it is for now!

Do i need to increase my gh?

I would recommend 10% water change per tank per week (or 20% per 2 weeks if you prefer) and add the new water gradually, dripping is the easiest way to add the new water as you can just leave it whilst that is happening! Squeeze the sponges gently in the removed 10% old water, check carefully for any baby shrimp that may be clinging/feeding on the sponge before removing it from the tank - you don't need to do this weekly but I do so it just became a habit.

When will i do water change?

How many shrimp did you order. Those death numbers are very low if you got ALL the shrimps in the photos together so I wouldn't worry as some deaths from shipping etc is almost inevitable! By the photos losing 5-8 shrimp with that great quantity is actually quite impressive and you did well, though as previously stated you will likely lose a few more in the next few weeks but the numbers dying should drop as time goes by. Don't panic and start altering things though as that can make things much worse.

I iaclimate it like 6 to 7 hours and no casualties and then when i put the caridina to there tanks tomorrow that day i saw 1 or 2 dead in my prl tank after 1 to 2 days again i saw in my galaxy tank 2 or 3 dead and my prl like 2 to 3 dead and blue bolt like 2 to 4

Lots of beautiful shrimps you have there. Did you get them all at the same time on 29 november. You need to drip acclimate shrimps to the tanik water and I suspect you may not have done that if these all came at the same time (that would have been one huge order and usually the different types are bagged separately)? Even if you did drip acclimate I would expect you to lose 10% (even up to 20%) in the first 2 weeks (to a month) due to the stress of travel and adapting to new water/environnment. Don't panic though, the deaths should be less each day for the first few weeks. As long as the water parameters are right and constant it should settle down. If you didn't drip acclimate you may lose more than 10% though! I see you have feeding dishes so I assume you are feeding them? Just keep an eye on them and maybe note what and how many you are losing and you should see less die off each day in the first 2 weeks or so. Keep us updated! They are beautiful shrimps, I am especially a blue bolt fan and you have some nice ones!

hi masters 🙇🏻‍♂️🙏 This is my tank now i have 3 tank for 1. RGFB, BOA GENES, PINTO , PRL PBL, BKK OE YELLOW, BLUE BOLT SS , ect ect 2. PRL and CRS 3. BLUE BOLT S , OE yellow, ect Now master the shrimp arrive last nov 29 and my tank of prl and crs every day i saw dead shrimps i dont know why 😢 and my tank of galaxy or the 1st tank i saw 2 to 4 dead yesterday. And my blue bolt s tank isaw 3 to 5 dead already 😢😢 idont know why i dont know what to do why its happen 😭 plss help me master i dont want to lose anymore shrimps in my tank 😭😭

Welcome to the forum! I hope you find plenty of useful information here, and feel free to ask any questions anytime. Are you new to shrimp keeping? Simon

Hi

Hooray! I was hoping it was molt but he hasnt progressed at all in about a week. Thank you guys so much for your help again. Ill keep an eye out.