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What are these white dots on my crayfish, is it ich
jayc replied to Huero's topic in Freshwater Crayfish
Shrimps and Crayfish don't suffer from Ich. This looks like parasitic Scutariella. You can read about it in this post along with possible treatments.- 1 reply
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Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Huero. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
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Oh, I use the divider with the sole intention of hatching fry and making sure they can evade their parents. I have growout tanks that I use to seperate males and females.
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fish breeder feedback
abbytherookiehuman replied to abbytherookiehuman's topic in Aquarium Product Reviews
thanks crabby for all your feed back : ) i know about the subdivider options but have been stung by it; i thought it would keep fry separate so i spent a whole afternoon separating girls and boys into left and right only to come outside after dinner and find that they could get from one side to another and they were all mixed up again. x( thought that was worth telling you since you're trying to line breed. you may not be able to tell but the two different groups are almost definitely mixing in the fry saver. sorry to be the bearer of bad news... that is a kink i would like to work out in my design though - Last week
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Congrats and well done on hatching your shrimp artificially.
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Are they in the tank or separate? In an established tank they will probably just survive on biofilm, especially if there is a limit number of them. I use Bacter AE which encourages biofilm growth and I'm not sure whether the shrimp eat it as well as they sually make a beeline for it? I used to feed the shrimp a Chi Ebi baby shrimp food. Both bacter AE and thebaby shrimp food are powder and I dip about 5mm of a wooden stick (match etc) in the water, then into the product, knock off excess, and then swirl in the tank! I did this twice a week. I don't honestly know whether feeding the babies made any difference but the tank was very well stocked with shrimp by that stage, so it probably must have helped. There are a few baby shrimp foods, most makes do one and they will be powder. If you move them from one tank to another you should drip acclimate them over a good few hours, even if the parameters are pretty similar, especially when they so small/young. Baby shrimp tend not to move far from one spot to start with and hide often so you may not see much of them in a normal aquarium setting until they have settled in. Simon
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Thanks Simon! It was a nice surprise, especially with the ongoing issues with the tank. I might stop h2o2 treatment now with them being born and all.. What are your personal go to foods for keeping them alive? and feeding frequency?
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FANTASTIC! You must be thrilled and all the effort was was clearly worth it. They will be very fragile so you aren't totally there yet as they could still perish but I have my fingers crossed and well done! Simon
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Hey guys, Guess today was the day. This was one of many. I was doing a dip every 2-3 days, for about 5 seconds, whether it helped or not, I'm not entirely sure!
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I realise how frustrating it can be when you can't pinpoint what has/is going wrong! The only red worm I know of is the bloodworm and they are harmless to shrimps, but if you aren't sure what it is then I would discard it to be safe? I don't know where they come from, any bucket left outside seems to get some in over time here?? Fingers crossed the H2O2 treatment does the job! Simon
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It's on its own. Those are some good points regarding aerosols, dirty hands etc. as I can't seem to pinpoint any issues with water parameters or obvious pathology/diagnoses. Upon reflection, it's the only tank with an open top, whilst all the other tanks have their own lids. Certainly something to think about.. I also found this red worm in my filter's mechanical filtration, is it harmful at all? Frustrated, I commenced the h202 treatment, but stopped the filter for about an hour. There hasn't been any abnormal activity yet, but will be watching closely over the following days.
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Thanks Simon, we are using tank water (rainwater) and changing around 30% a week. That is very interesting that you say the parameters are more suited to cardinal, I thought they were more difficult to keep. I bought all juveniles but some seemed to have grown a lot larger. I hope this is not two females that have died! I can still see healthy looking shrimp (I guess I have 5 remaining) so I will hang in there fingers crossed. Thanks Sub
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A lot of shrimp deaths are down to moulting problems! Your test results you divide by 18 (17.9 to be exact) to get the more widely used figures, so your Gh is 4. The parameters you have are better suited to Caridina, but probably at this point I would just carry on as you are for now as the larger/older shrimps would have not adapted too well to new/different water and (like all creatures) the smaller/younger ones should adapt better, and as that was the last large one it may resolve itself from here on! The water parameters are off as I say but I wouldn't start mucking about with that yet, wait and see if you lose another younger first, if they are moulting fine and the other tank has those same parameters I would give it a bit longer, messing with the parameters anyway may even cause more deaths! Do you know what te TDS figure is? Assuming this figure is too low as well (likely) you should be able to just add some of the usual shrimp GH/KH+ to get those better for Neocaridina shrimp but I would hold off that for the moment, see if the remainig shrimp adapt better? As this low tank is uncovered with a large surface area the parameters will creep up in time naturally due to evaporation anyway! What water are you using? Simon
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Sadly I have found another shrimp dead this morning. There are still live ones cruising around so it isn't all of them - seems like the two largest shrimp have died. Water parameters this morning are Nitrates 10 (bit sus on this as I think my test strips are already showing this slight pink before I wet them) Nitrites 0 Hardness 75 GH ppm Alkalinity 0 KH ppm PH 6.2 The fire reds we have in the other tank are using exactly the same water and there has been no troubles. In my tank I notice some moults yesterday so is it a problem with moulting you think? Thanks so much for any help - I have done some research on the correct parameters but not really sure that I understand the GH and KH numbers compared with what my test kit is telling me. Thanks all and have a great day sub
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Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes mohsen. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
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You could just quarantine the shrimp in a bucket or other plastic container, if you don't have a seperate tank and if you are going to try H202 that is definitely a better/safer place to do that as just the one shrimp will be at risk instead of all the shrimp and the bacteria etc. I haven't tried H202 treatment so can't advise you on that! I personally wouldn't risk trying that treatment in a main tank! I hope the eggs do hatch ok, it sounds like that is doing well. Otherwise it is just a case of trying to identify what may have caused the problem? Is the tank on its own or with the other shrimp tanks? Is it likely that someone used an aerosol near the tank and poisoning the water, shrimps are super sensitive? Did you maybe have something on your hands when you did some maintenance of this tank? It may be worth doing a 50% waterchange with dripping the new water into the tank. I would do that and quarantine the sick shrimp in a bucket/container as a start. Simon
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Hi Simon! It was in fact all one colour, and it's mid-section changed to clear. In general, shrimp activity has diminished significantly with many hiding, lethargic, refusing to eat. It is really noticeable compared to my other tanks and I sense death is imminent.. I have not been able to remove it as I unfortunately don't have another cycled tank for quarantine. It is only in the breeder box for observation currently. My apologies I forgot to post pH, it is 7.4. There is a HOB filter which should provide some aeration, as well as the egg tumblers with air stones. I was previously feeding hikari crab cuisine every two days but have since switched to soybean husks since yesterday; so I can leave them in, in case they get hungry. I've noticed none of the shrimp will come to eat and was afraid of fouling/ammonia spiking. Only snails are eating it. I've also made some shrimp kandy feast (awesome recipe jayc) and other tanks will maul it except this one. The eggs have eyes now! Which coincide with other berried females' eggs, so hopefully they all hatch close to each other 🙂 A friend suggested dosing h2o2 at 0.3ml/L daily, for 1 week. Would you condone this?
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The shrimp in the photo looks more like an orange rili, or was it all one colour and that is your concern? Have you removed the shrimp for now? What is the PH of the tank water it was kept in? The other parameters look good! Do you have some sorrt of filter that aerates the water in the shrimp tank? Are you feeding your shrimps? Simon ps How is/did the egg hatching go??
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Hi guys, Have been having issues with my yellow neocaridina tank this past month, from a berried female death, general inactivity in the past 2 days, to this discolouration in the body (yellow to translucency). I am afraid the colony will collapse soon if I leave as is. Parameters: Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates ~5-10 KH: 3 GH: 7 TDS: ~205 Temperature: 23-24 What would you guys diagnose this as? Differential being muscular necrosis? Help much appreciated, thank you!
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I use a few different breeder boxes, and while none of them are perfect, they seem to do the job for me. I don't have any idea what models or brands they are, besides one - the Aqua One Mini Float. I bought it for endlers and shrimp, and I doubt it would work for guppies, mollies or any other larger livebearers, since it is (as the name would suggest) pretty small. It's hard plastic, which I like (for usability), the suction cups kind-of suck, although it does have two compartments on either side that hold air, so it won't sink if the suction cups come off. It's a great size for my 5 gallon tank. My problem is that the gaps are too large for shrimplets. I think there should be some alternative option that has a very fine mesh (like in a shrimp net) that can be attached over the areas that have water-flow holes. It also comes with a removable divider for fry seperation. I do prefer breeder boxes with a divider option. I also have 2 of those rather common large mesh ones, that pack really small and have a net that goes over the hollow-cube structure. One has 2 dividers (so you can subdivide it into 2, and have a baby-catcher underneath still) which I found very useful when I was breeding lines with 1-2 males and 2 females, as the females would drop their fry around the same time. So I think the metacube idea is a really good one. There are a couple reasons I prefer hard plastic (with a fine mesh attachment possibly) over mesh with plastic scaffolding (like this) - firstly, the plastic ones are easier to move when you remove the fry. I have on multiple occasions accidentally left a fry in the mesh one without realising. Luckily I noticed in time, and I haven't had any deaths from that. Secondly, there are slight gaps between the mesh and the scaffolding, and the fry have a tendency to get stuck in those gaps. If I don't notice, there's a fair chance I could lose some of those fry. I also have problems with the mesh ones getting algae on them. If the hard plastic gets algae, I can easily rub/scrape it off. The mesh just does not let go of algae though, and it can be a bit of an eyesore (in addition to how ugly the mesh ones already look). If I try to suck it off with a syphon (just cuz) the fry get sucked into the net and stuck. I hope that's helpful. I do realise it's a massive mess of text. To sum it up, the things that are important to me as a shrimp, endler and guppy breeder are the following: Clear, hard plastic box Divider option Safe for baby shrimp Has a possibility to use multiple beside eachother - possibly interlock GOOD suction cups (like Eheim ones) Smaller size Works with and without a lid No places for fry to get stuck. Cheers, Crabby.
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The Ziss and Metacube breeder box I have does not come with a divider for the eggs to drop down away from the parents. But, yes, that would have been a nice feature to have. The divider needs to be removable however.
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The tank still hasn't gotten out of the slump yet despite 2 15% water changes and good air quality this last week. A few things I have noticed is that after a dose of Bacter AE, the shrimp become active for half a day or more, and similarly with a H2O2 dose. I also took out the Oxydator since it didn't seem to make much difference. One of my original shrimp died (11 months with me plus a few beforehand), although it was starting to look old and decrepit anyway. Another one of the original shrimp seemed to have gotten sick for a week but then recovered? So definitely "something" happened, but I have no idea except for the recent bad air. It seems that one more Shadow Panda / BKK also got the short antenna symptoms, although still active. The other one that already had it seems to have slowed down now. Looking back at my notes, I think these SP / BKK never did well in this tank, so now I wonder if it is bacterial or even genetic. When I first set up this tank, I got a pair of BKK from one breeder, and they did fine but one suddenly died after 6 weeks with the only symptom being somewhat curly but not short antenna. Then about 4 months later, the other one died with the short antenna. Neither of them grew up larger than a small size. And now, starting about 2 months ago, my own BKK / SP, which were born in this tank and did fine for 7-8 months, have been going one by one. Of these, only 1 or 2 grew up to be a large size. (They are probably female). From the same batch of babies, the blue bolts are doing fine and have long antennae that are 1.5x body length. I reinstalled the pH meter, and it reads about a half point higher than when the tank was new. (6.0 to 6.5 now) So lower pH is supposed to be more anti-bacterial, but I don't know at this point if only 0.5 makes that much of a difference. I might just end up dosing the entire tank with minocycline if this bacteria is endemic. Some people on another shrimp forum claim that it doesn't kill off the filter bacteria. I've also been thinking of transferring another shrimp to the Amano tank. It depends if I want to have shrimp babies in that tank, and if I would be willing to risk the health of those shrimp. Don't want to mess up a good thing, ya know.
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fish breeder feedback
abbytherookiehuman replied to abbytherookiehuman's topic in Aquarium Product Reviews
thank you so much for your reply, i forgot to ask before, as my assignment will be focused on a model that also better protects the babies from the parents during and in the window after their birth, i was meaning to ask if your method also has a divider so that the fry can drop down safely away from mum. i would like to ask that any more responses also include that information (baby divider; yes/no). sorry for the missing information and thanks again in advance for any further replies -
Thanks guys, all of the other shrimp I can see are looking fine - they are so dark blue some of them are nearly black! Tank doesnt seem to be getting too hot.. I guess I will just have to wait and see 🙂
