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  2. Nope, shrimp import is banned in Australia. Absolutely banned.
  3. As jayc has mention, do check if you are allowed to import them into your country, I think Australia is ok as long as you applied for the paper work to import them, but do check first. But this option are for those who are after good quality shrimp with a guaranteed of pure bloodline. You can contact them through this email, they accept Paypal with a addition 7.5% on top, their Paypal account email is different, but email them first for relevant detail as they may differ from mine. YU CRS CENTER CORP. <contact@yu-crscenter.com> For me they cost with shipping and Paypal fee, its still cheaper them in Hong Kong. I will have to delay this purchase, ADA and the CALs Black Earth Premium substrate are limited now, most places does not have stock, and no delivery date.
  4. Eric

    Welcome Eric

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Eric. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  5. ShrimpNewb

    RO remineralizer for Neocaridina

    See, and I thought you meant weak solutions were just as susceptible. So I should pre-mix my 7 gallon tank when I get the RO water and it will last the 4 weeks or so that I use it to change water just fine. That's what I was after. Apparently the Salty Bee guys think the same. Makes sense.
  6. Last week
  7. jayc

    RO remineralizer for Neocaridina

    I was talking about letting pure RO water sit around for too long unused. Try not to do it. RO water that has been remineralised is different.
  8. KingPin

    Welcome KingPin

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes KingPin. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  9. jayc

    I thought I was doing so well...

    Oops did I mix them around? <edit> - I did mix the names around. Fix it now in my post above.
  10. Ok then. Will add more plants to try and reduce nitrates. Thanks Simon and JayC for the pointers and hints. I think the Dino Spit is the Glutaraldehyde and the Dino Pee has the macro and micronutrients. I will leave off the Glutaraldehyde and reduce the dose of the Pee to one third. I am pretty careful with the dosing. Good news is that there are at least two RCS females still in the tank and looking well. Maybe they went and hid and moulded after the big water change? The surviving DAE are all looking well. Anyway will take all your advice on board and do smaller water changes and work out a dripper system.
  11. beanbag

    RO remineralizer for Neocaridina

    jayc's comments on letting remineralized water sit around got me thinking. I've had pre-mixed up batches of water sitting around for a month or more with no obvious growth. I asked the Salty Shrimp people about this, but unfortunately they replied back to me in German, and google translate doesn't seem to work too well. So if anybody knows German, here is their reply: " prinzipiell ist es kein Problem dein mit Bee Shrimp GH+ aufgesalzenes Osmosewasser zu lagern, jedoch werden dabei einige Spurenelemente verloren gehen. Dies hat sich bei unds allerdings noch nicht als negativ herausgestellt, da wir selbst meist eine Menge von ca. 1000l aufgesalzen parat haben. "
  12. Mideki

    Welcome Mideki

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Mideki. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  13. beanbag

    I thought I was doing so well...

    Even though this isn't the acute cause of your problem, the nitrates are too high.
  14. beanbag

    Crooked antennae means what?

    I just noticed that one of my red wine pandas also has the crooked antennae, although it's not so much crooked, as really soft at the ends and flops around. None of my other shrimp (some Taiwan bee, neos, and amanos) have this problem. Would it help if I bumped up the GH a little bit (currently at 5) or fed them more food with calcium. (Their main food is algae + biofilm + indian almond leaf, plus every 2-3 days I throw in some random food like jayc's agar recipe, oats, barley, soy husk, Shrimp King Protein / Mineral / complete, etc)
  15. update: it sort of works Initially the shrimp will pick at it because of the dust layer on the outside. Then when they can't pick thru the shell, they give up and leave. Eventually a shrimp will notice that the shell is hard, but the cut surface is edible, and will slowly eat at it. After a few days, it gets hollowed out. I think whether or not it works depends on if your shrimp are smart enough to eat the insides.
  16. I'm not sure what they recommend as per 1 stick per ?? shrimps as I don't have the packets. I smash them all up (need a hammer though as they are very tough) and keep them mixed in a container, then use an old shrimp lolly stick dipped about 1 or 2 mm in the tank water, quickly in the food, tap off excess and then into the tank. I do this about 3 times each other day (I alternate with other foods). One thing is for sure though, I have 100+ shrimps and the total of doing the above is definitely less than half a complete stick in total, probably nearer a third of a stick. This also means the food gets spread around the tank better and they don't all have to fight to get to it, though there will still be some squabbling. With everything though I use less than the manufacturers recommend as they are in it for the profit firstly............. oops I may have repeated myself somewhat on some of this! Simon
  17. sdlTBfanUK

    I thought I was doing so well...

    Cherry shrimp are a lot tougher than caridina but they are still more sensitive than fish for instance. I think smaller regular water changes are safer than the bigger one you did. JayC has covered a lot more than I know about but generally I think shrimps and plant fertilisers don't mix well. As long as the plants don't actually die, them growing slower will also save on maintenance, or maybe try using a lot less than the recommended dosage may work if it is shrimp safe. I use this dripper that is made for reptiles to keep them moist, but it works well as a tank re-filler as well (it just sits on the top of the tank). As JayC says, he makes his own version. https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/14032-dripper/ Hope you still have some red cherry shrimps left and you decide to continue with them. Simon
  18. miketanbt.hotmail

    Welcome miketanbt.hotmail

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes miketanbt.hotmail. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  19. Sending it out of Taiwan is not the problem. Receiving it at the other end is the problem. Just an FYI for those in Australia that might be tempted, your import of shrimp will be confiscated and destroyed. But if you are from a country that does not have laws around importing fauna, then this might be an option.
  20. jayc

    I thought I was doing so well...

    Dino Pee is made up of 50gm SOLUBLE CHELATED TRACE ELEMENT (Fe, Zn, Mn, B, Cu, Mo) 250 gm POTASSIUM SULPHATE (K2SO4) 250 gm MAGNESIUM SULPHATE (MGSO4.7H2O 125 gm POTASSIUM NITRATE (KNO3) 25 ml HYDROCHLORIC ACID (HCl) (optional as preservative) swimming pool strength (350g per litre) 3 litres WATER (demineralised H2O) If the acid is not used, the brew must be kept in the refrigerator. The stock solution is dosed into the water at 10 ml per 1000 litres of aquarium water. - straight from Dave at Aquagreen. It's a pretty good K & P macro fertiliser. Dose is 10ml per 1000 litres. So make sure you have added the correct dose. That's very little required. You could halve the dosage if in doubt for a tank with shrimps. Dino Spit is a ten percent solution of glutardaldehyde. Dosage is 1 drop per 10L of water. Again this is a very low dose. Check you are not over dosing. It's equivalent of Seachem's Flourish Excel. An alternate source of carbon for plants. Both products are low cost alternatives to the expensive imported brands. It is a compromise, either you look after the welfare of the plants or the shrimp. High tech, fast growing plants with shrimp is a bigger compromise than low light plants. So choose low light plants. A shrimp tank can still look beautiful with low light, low demand plants. I know, I have many like that with shrimps in it and minimal fertilisers being used. Not saying you can't succeed with high demand plants, it's just harder. Ferts need to be introduced slowly into the tank if there are shrimps. Of the two ferts above, Dino Pee might be the culprit based on your shrimp's reactions. "Hanging" out on the surface means they are trying to get to more oxygen. And of the two ferts, Dino Pee with it's glutardaldehyde would cause such a reaction in the shrimp. Glut depletes oxygen in the water. If you add a pinch of Bicarb Soda to your water changes, you can raise the KH and pH of the tank. And by doing it every water change, the increase is slow enough to not affect the shrimp. Aim for a pH of 6.6 -6.8 for RCS (they can handle 7.0 just fine, slight acidity is good for the plants). Edit - As for drip container i use a DIY system. Air hose, Cleaned 4 (or 3, cant remember) Litre milk bottle. The soft plastic makes it easy to work with. Cut open the milk bottle at the top to allow you to add water, much like a water can hole. Basically, large enough for you to pour water in. Leave the handle for easy carrying. Make a small hole just a fraction smaller than the air hose at the bottom of the milk bottle and fit int hose into it. Silicon it in for a water tight seal. You might not need silicon if you did it right, should be tight enough. But use silicon if you butchered the hole while making it. At the other end of the hose, attach an air valve. One of these ...
  21. Well, the Bacter AE went well, but for some reason when I looked at the stick of Dennerle Complete I just put into the tank I didn't think it'd be like 20X the amount I've been feeding the shrimp. Oops. About 30 minutes left and I'm vacuuming it up. Annoying for me. Next time, I'll crush it like Simon suggested. Such a large portion makes an awful mess, too.
  22. ShrimpNewb

    I thought I was doing so well...

    I just use an air line and a valve to set the drops and let it run. It requires zero supervision.
  23. I have a reply from them on the cost, there is no minimum order. Message me if you are interested, the cost is very reasonable, in fact cheap compare to the cost in Hong Kong, and they send worldwide, I don't want to post on this forum, without there permission.
  24. Thanks @sdITBfanUK and @ShrimpNewb. For the last month or so the RCS and Darwin Algae Eater shrimp were growing and colouring up well with the small water changes I was doing. The water I have hovers around ph of 6.4 and I have Amazonia substrate. I thought the RCS were tougher than other shrimp and I know others have commented that the WP were closer to Caridina preferences. RCS are cheaper here, my LFS stock the plain red ones so I thought I would start with them. Anyway, will try smaller changes and dripping them in. It really is a balance isn’t it? Shrimp first or a lush planted tank first. Different requirements. I need to make a drip system for bigger changes. Thus far when I was “drip acclimating” the shrimp to put in the tank, I used a syringe over several hours. Dripping 6 litres by syringe might be rather tedious.
  25. ShrimpNewb

    I thought I was doing so well...

    pH does seem pretty low. From what I've read, neocaridina like the pH in the low to mid 7s and struggle to survive below 6.5. I'm new to this hobby too and I would definitely listen to Simon, as he has given me a bunch of good advice thus far. Also, when I was researching shrimp, I was advised to avoid planted aquarium ferts because they negatively impact the shrimp. That may be the reason for the deaths. Unfortunately, I know nothing about the Dino products, though I am avoiding Seachem Excel and the other ferts I normally use in my larger planted tank for the neocaridina tank. You may want to look into other ways to combat algae.
  26. sdlTBfanUK

    I thought I was doing so well...

    The water parameters are more caridina than neocaridina! I wouldn't do a 50% water change unless really there was a serious problem. With water changes anyway it is best to drip the new water into the tank, this will also mean you don't need to worry about the temperature difference of the 2 waters. Shrimps normally swim about more when you do a water change anyway, it also can trigger breeding and molting - I guess it would be the equivalent of heavy rain in nature! You may also want to check the plant food is ok as they may contain something not good for shrimps, generally I believe it is better not to use plant feeds and don't use them. Hope everything settles down and you don't lose any more shrimp. Simon
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