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yes, it's the shed shells. now that I think about it, I also remember in the video the bugs were clear, and I have seen clear ones before too, a long time ago. But these recent ones were dark colored. So I have two tanks. In one of them, where I normally have this problem, I have been dosing antibiotics. The short version is that most of the shadow panda and RWP shrimp have got this disease, but they haven't died either. But they don't recover either. They just simply stop growing and stay at a small size with stumpy short antenna. The first shadow panda that got this problem is still alive maybe 2-3 months later. In my other tank which often doesn't have this problem also got it, but it seems to have hit harder, where both "almost adult" shadow panda suddenly got it and died within a few days. Antibiotics didn't save them. It's too weird - it seems like this problem comes on suddenly, with no trigger that I can think of. (besides "the weather was warm and I ran the air conditioned". This doesn't actually affect the water temperatures since I have a chiller, but maybe something blew into the tank?)

Sorry for the delay, I have been searching on here and the wider web but cannot find what you are referring too! I do know which video you are talking about and remember seeing it. The video was of a shed shell rather than a live shrimp! Are you seeing them on live shrimp? From memory I don't think it was anything to worry about and I very much doubt it would discriminate between different colours of shrimp, but was probably nothing to worry about and just part of the life in aquariums, like detritus worms and other life forms. I think they were colourless in the video, if my memory is any good? Are you still getting shadow panda deaths?

Hello folks, I remember reading about this a few years ago but for the life of me cannot find this info / thread again. Can somebody point me to a link for this info? I forgot the forum I saw it on. There was a discussion about how if you look at a shrimp molt shell under a microscope or loupe, sometimes you can see tiny "bugs" or whatever moving around inside. At that time, I think the conclusion was that maybe it was a symbiotic relationship because it even happened with healthy shrimp. But I can't remember if this occurred only in neocaridina or caridina also? I just happened to look at a shadow panda's (caridina) shell who is sick with the "shortened antenna disease" that I always complained about. There were tiny blue/black spots moving around inside. I also looked at the molt shells of some blue bolts that don't have this problem, and there were very few, or none, spots moving around inside the molt shell. I wonder if this could be some symbiotic relationship gone wrong and is the actual (proximate) cause of the problem. (Since antibiotics didn't really seem to work) In that case, I would need some kind of anti-parasite medication to cure the shrimps. What are the typical internal anti-parasite medications for shrimps?

You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?

Welcome ! Just start with a well cycled tank, and issues at the start will be minimised. Having existing tanks and filter media helps, since you can just squeeze the filter media into the new tank and use that to start the cycle of the new tank.

Hi Shrimp People. I am a new shrimp keeper. I have red cherries and some pinto mischling tangerine tigers. I am hoping to branch into Caridinas soon and look forward to your assistances when I inevitably screw something up.

These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems. Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs. That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you. Because snails don't moult. If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells. It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH. Good luck and keep us updated.

United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.

Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2? Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!

Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA

Great shot of Big Mama! I reckon, 1 week tops for hatching.

Great photo and news. The eggs are fading yellow but there are eyes so all looking good and there are a lot of eggs! Probably about half way ready to hatch.

Let's hope the big mama can lay safely those eggs

Sorry, I'm not in that area. 🙃 I prefer Glass tanks. Acrylic scratches way too easily. Often while cleaning algae off the sides. And once it's built up enough scratches, viewing gets obstructed. Often going with LARGE tanks, you start to fall into custom built stands. So don't be surprised if you cannot find anything suitable.

Hi @ssophi80, welcome to SKF Aquatics. Glad to have you here.

The easiest way wouod be to go to an aquarium shop and get a tank with a cabinet made for that tank, as that should be able to support the weight, as water in any large quantity is very heavy. I suspect it would have to be a glass aquarium at that capacity, otherwise the plastic would have to be very thick. It is possible to use a non aquarium specific piece of furniture but as you say it is quite risky, though I did help a friend do that by strengthening a nice decorative piece of furniture they had that they wanted to put a 350L tank on. It has been doing the job for 10 years but also bear in mind water marks, and we had to varnish many coats to make sure water doesn't soak into the wood etc. Its not really worth it in reality, it cost a lot of money to buy all the wood/stuff to strengthen it so was probably no cheaper, and a lot of time doing it. It may be dearer to get a combo tank and stand but much much easier and safer, and only you can know what ones you llike the appearance of? I would start off going to local stores and seeing if they have any you like, and even if not it will give you ideas?

Welcome to the forum! I hope you enjoy your time on here, get a lot of useful information and help, feel free to ask any questions also.

Hi everyone, I am looking to upgrade my tank to a larger size and need some advice. Can anyone tell me which is better, acrylic or glass and why? And here's the big one- I'm trying to find a stand that looks good and is sturdy. I see a lot of nice looking stands out there, but when you read the fine print they are made of particle board. To me, that just seems like a disaster waiting to happen! Does anyone know where I can find a good stand in the Birmingham, AL area? I'm looking at getting a tank in the 50 - 70 gallon range. Thanks!

Hi all! I am also new here and excited to be the part of this community:)

Simon has nailed it. It's not muscular necrosis, as you wouldn't be able to see it on a shrimp like this. You can only see muscular necrosis on shrimps with transparent shells.

Are you talking about the light orange patches on the back of the shrimp as I can't see any 'white'?? I have had red chrerry shrimp that have a lighter colour stripe along its back, so similar. If your shrimp are only a few days old then they may just be getting back to their normal colour as they settle into a new environment and the different water parameters. The shrimp may also be about to molt due to the change of water? I don't think you need to worry at this point, but just keep an eye on it. The nearest I came up with from the disease thread was muscular necrosis, but it doesn't look quite right for that to me?

That is a very pretty shrimp and I have not seen one like that! I have had a lot of wild type shrimps over the years but nothing looking like that.

It's difficult to see it all camouflage in between your rainbow pebbles. But yeah, I like it. That's quite unique.

I know that this is mostly going to end up being a "you've got a throwback" type thing but I'm just interested if anyone who has cherry, orange sakura or bloods has ever seen something like this. Clear blue tint body, red/brown head... All others in tank are either true to type red, orange or slightly tiger n clear pattern ie. Poor quality. Tyia

Hi everyone, Im super new to keeping shrimps. I’ve had a couple of cherry shrimps for about a week now and one of them has a strange white colouring on their back it appeared overnight/this morning and I’m not sure if I should be worried. Thanks, Ben