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  1. Today
  2. yeah i did hang some leaves , don't know why babies and small shrimps like to gathering there
  3. Thats fantastic news, I would leave it where it is for a few more days to be sure and make it easier to keep an eye on it! I know the indian almond leaves have some antibacteria properties (?) maybe you should put a few in the main tank as it won't do any harm and may help. The tannin rich water won't be too difficult to clear with water changes at a later date either.
  4. my first shrimp seems like recovered , my malachite green still in shipping so i did aquarium salt dip every other day i put 3 sick shrimp in seperate bowl 1 shrimp couldn't make it on first day (maybe shock from transferring) the second shrimp still alive but still same not changes anything i put several indian almond leaves in their bowl its makes heavily brown water like a tea. everyday i dip the shrimp in aquarium salt bath for every 3-4 mins (1 spoons of aquarium salt with 150ml water) today i noticed my first shrimp didn't have any green/yellow spot even the black spot already disappeared , is it safe to put the shrimp in main tank now? or i should quarantine for several days?
  5. sdlTBfanUK

    TDS creep.

    Whatare those pellets you are adding, can you test one of those in water and see if it increases the TDS? I am assuming it is some kind of fertilizer for the plants? Also, how much old substrate did you use to 'seed' the tank as if it is old substrate that may be releasing stuff into the water? I wouls suspect those pellets to be your issue though!
  6. Dirk De Bakker

    TDS creep.

    Only used disc's buffer and regulator the once. The regulator kept taking the Ph up to 7 as it claimed it did. Even Seachem USA didn't explain very well even though I was telling them I wanted a Ph in the low 6's. I saw the TDS going up so stopped using both. I haven't added anything in the way of remineralizers since that first dose just straight RO. The TDS just climbs of its own accord. I think it must be just the Amazonia V2 giving me the headache. Maybe its the secondary additional pellets they included in the Amazonia mix. I haven't tried Disc's buffer alone at this stage and at the moment can't see the need. The Ph seems to be about right and is holding steady at 5.8 to 6.0 happy with that its been stable for days now. Ammonia is 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate is very slightly up but not excessive. KH is 0, GH is 3 or slighly above. No rocks only 2 small pieces of wood that came out of my PRL holding tank. These 2 pieces of wood I tested for 24 hours in a bucket with no TDS increase. I have done numerous and I mean numerous straight RO water changes daily for several times now. I can get it down to around TDS 115 mark with the changes but it creeps up overnight again and keeps going up daily. Tank has been running for about 6 weeks minimum and was seeded with substrate about 4 weeks ago from an established older tank (years old).
  7. jayc

    TDS creep.

    It is these chemical above that are increasing TDS. Anytime you add chemicals/minerals, it increases TDS. Preferably try to obtain a GH+ (not GH/KH+) remineralise for RO water, don't rely on Buffer and Regulator. This option has the extra benefit of no additional phosphates (Discus buffer and Regulator is a phosphate based buffer). EG, https://www.bossaquaria.com.au/shrimp-king-bee-salt-gh/ https://aqualabs.com.au/products/saltyshrimp-bee-shrimp-gh-110g https://nanotanksaustralia.com.au/product/shrimp-king-bee-salt-gh/ If you prefer, use the Discus buffer but leave out the Regulator. Amazonia + RO water should in theory give you very low pH levels by itself. Do you have any rocks in the tank? Rocks increase KH, pH and TDS. I assume you have tried Amazonia+RO water by itself without the added chemicals and have not been able to reduce pH. Is that right? A tank will naturally gravitate towards Acidic, as beneficial bacteria breaks down ammonia, where a buffering agent (like rocks or shells or calcium carbonates) are present in low amounts. Is your tank mature and cycled? If you can provide answers to the questions above, we should be able to help you figure something out.
  8. cool thanks! guess i'll keep trying the oregano oil and hydrogen peroxide ;_; fingers crossed
  9. Yesterday
  10. That's rust disease. Looks like the bacteria has eaten through the carapace.
  11. Dirk De Bakker

    TDS creep.

    Morning all, I have a 50lt tank set up for PRL shrimp, planted with a couple of pieces of bush wood with Amazonia V2 substrate, RO water remineralized with Seachem Disc's buffer with Seachem Regulator. I am getting quite a daily increase in TDS readings, 120 / 139 / and today's 157. I have been doing daily 25 lt 100% RO water changes for quite a few days now and get it down to 115 or so but it rises steadily overnight to the anove readings within 2 days or so maximum. I bucket tested the wood for 24 hours with no increase from TDS 2. I don't use ferts. These are new PRL'S and the breeders recomendations were TDS 120 - 140 ph 5.8 to 6.0 I initially struggled to get the Ph down to breeders recommendation 5.8 / 6.0 so used the Disc's buffer. Seems stable at the moment. I have only needed to use this product just the once to date. Guess this leaves only the Amazonia V2 substrate. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I can't find a lot on the net about the V2 version but the plain earlier Amazonia seems a lot more stable and most breeders seem to be using this one. Sorry for the lengthy complicated question.
  12. This week I noticed that some of my yellow neos developed white patches on their gills. I quarantined them as soon as I saw something was off. As the week went on the patches got a red edge, and almost look like blood? Both sides of the shrimps are affected (slightly symmetrical), and the edges seem to be darkening. It doesn't seem like Rust disease because it's localized to the gill area, so I'm stumped on whether they just got unlucky with some water parameter changes, or if it's something serious? I've browsed the diseases topic and none of them seem to match. They're also eating/acting fairly normally in the quarantine tank. Would appreciate any advice! I've attached a photo below.
  13. Treat the infected shrimp outside the main tank.
  14. Last week
  15. I would just treat the quarantine tank first and see if that is effective in the treatment. I have that malachite green and it will seriously stain everything it comes into contact with, so wear gloves and be very careful. If it works successfully then consider doing the main tank later if you are still seeing sick shrimp in it, but it may result in you having to redoing the tank once you have treated it.
  16. yeah im already bought malachite green , im still keep an eye to other shrimps ( already seperate 3 suspected shrimps) for shrimp babies i dont know if they're infected or not should i dose melechite inside my tank? i have heavily planted tank in this case
  17. Are you able to get any of the medications where you are that are mentioned in the 'shrimp diseases and diagnosis' thread? Otherwise I guess you will just have to remove any suspect shrimp as/when you see them, but you may end up losing them all if it is widespread already, and you have no treatments!
  18. Finally caught the second shrimp , the yellow thing definitely inside his belly but its doesn't looks like an egg too
  19. dang i have lots of baby shrimps that's maybe infected im suspecting there are some hidden infected shrimps in my shrimp tank right now , i did 50% water change im thinking to add some indian almond leaves is it possible to prevent and cure early stage of this disease with almond leaves?
  20. Ellobiopsidae is highly infectious. Separate the shrimp immediately. Aquarium salt and hydrogen peroxide is ineffective aganist Ellobiopsidae. Methylene blue is only partially affective by itself. Try to get a Formalin & Malachite green combo medication from a pet store.
  21. im still trying to catch second shrimp , there are too many baby shrimp so i cant use fish net instead i use laddle with a bait (hikari crab cuisine) i almost got him unfortunately he escaped , im planning to do water change after i catch him
  22. sdlTBfanUK

    Hydra

    That was very interesting but those are some creepy critters! I haven't seen any in my tanks for years so the SL-Aqua Z1 worked, in case anyone has these as a problem at some point AND CAN get hold of it, it is a natural treatment? http://www.sl-aqua.com/en/conditioner/products_z1.html
  23. jayc

    Hydra

    Found a great youtube video on Hydra.
  24. I can see why you (as I also did) thought it is/was eggs, even with those clearer photos it is difficult to tell with that second shrimp? Even blown up I can't really tell, though if they are eggs on this second shrimp, they are very recent! It is best to separate any that are looking suspect as soon as possible, but putting a (possibly) healthy shrimp with a (possibly) sick one isn't a good idea either obviously! Can you keep the 2 suspect shrimp separate for now?
  25. after several hours watching my shrimp tank I was noticed there is one shrimp that has a slightly yellow bellow/inside belly im not sure the shrimp female or male , the yellow part looks like inside his/her belly
  26. i live in Indonesia , treatment for fish usually i use aquarium salt ,methylene blue , or hydrogen peroxide. can the disease infect other shrimp? Before being quarantined I left it in my shrimp tank for a week I thought it was normal and i thought it was eggs
  27. Where are you? What treatment do you have in your country for parasites on a fish? You seem to have two issues. Ellobiopsidae (parasitic) and the black spot or rust disease (bacterial). Both are described in the Disease and Diagnostics thread.
  28. thanks for the thread! after read that its looks like my problem similar to ellobiopsidae but mine not that yellow (although its slightly yellow) hope those are eggs because its hard to buy formalin in my country (illegal chemical)
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