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Found 9 results

  1. Hello - I am firing up my planted aquarium and during the setup of my co2 regulator/solenoid I noticed a couple leaks that I am having troubles stopping. There was a very small leak at the connector from the needle valve to the solenoid. I unthreaded and cleaned it up but upon reconnecting leak is still there (worse actually). My question is how do you seal these connection? I hear teflon tape is not a good idea as it can cause some internal issues if small pieces break of. Since this connection is past the regulator maybe less of an issue but still. Is this an ideal application for teflon tape? or is there some other method? (edit, this is pic from the web. My reg is a JBS but connections are the same) Thx, Merlin
  2. SonoranStorm

    New to Shrimp and Plants

    Hi all. So some background My 10g tank has: Blue Dreams Amanos 1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got 3 Rainbow Paskais 1 Celestial Danio Phoenix Moss Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant) Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus) Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern) Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass ) Micranthemum (Monte Carlo) A random piece of Subwasstertang algea but i dont want that The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on. Current Parameters Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test) Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon. Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone. Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
  3. Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. Options ive thought of- 1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced 2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
  4. Hello, So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed. It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces, So I made this: The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises. A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles. The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it. Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong. I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around. The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system. I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. My fav part is the diffuser TBH, I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers. enjoy.
  5. I am setting up a new tank and currently have a 36" 12 gallon, a 30 gallon long, a 20 high, a 10 gallon and a 29 gallon. I am now setting up a 75 gallon. I am using a Submersible and a HOB and a UG with Power heads. My question revolves around running the Powerheads in reverse and feeding them with CO2 from a Citric/Baking soda set up. Will the CO2 hurt the plants being delivered to the roots first for maximum diffusion? I do use Seachem Excel in my tanks trying to give the plants the edge over the algae. I have also used the H2O2 and CO2 punch technique successfully but haven't chatted too much about ferts and CO2. Does anyone see any concerns with my plan?
  6. Josho

    Leaking CO2 Regulator

    Today I just got my CO2 tank refilled at my LFS and at the end the guy told me 'not to loose this' and handed me an o-ring and says it was on my tank when I gave it to him. I got home and placed the O-ring around the nipple on the regulator and screwed on the tank. Immediately I could hear a loud hiss and could feel the gas leaking around the connection. I tried to tighten the connection but no go. I then tried to pull get the o-ring out (I thinking that it may had been installed upside down or the wrong location) but it won't come out of it's recess. From the gauge it shows that it can only hold just under 500psi. Having not really noticed this o-ring before and cannot find any manuals online, is the o-ring the problem and how do I get a replacement (or even get it out)? Note: Regulator is an Ista Twin Mini Gauge Vertical CO2 Controller (with Solenoid) http://www.istaproducts.com/product/co2-controller-mini-gauge-vertical/
  7. Matuva

    Air stone or not?

    Hi all; hot days are coming back. I just received some CRS and golden bees. I have a good tank set for receiving them, heavily planted, no nitrites, TDS 130, KH 1, yada, yada... But; water temperature is around 26~27°C ? I know this is not good... I'm trying to cool the tank as much as I can. I heard about adding an air stone to gain around 2°C lower. True or urban legend? I also heard that adding an air stone is not trully a good thing in heavily planted tank in the fact that it reduces CO2 by moving the water. Any opinion to share guys? Pro & cons? Thanks!
  8. Hi everyone, I installed a Co2 system in my shrimp tank (you can see it on the left, although not activate at that time). Plants really grow more after I installed. However, I heard that you shouldn't leave the Co2 running when there is no light, because there is no photosynthesis happening and something toxic from the Co2 might kill the shrimp. So, I heard that you can either turn it off every night (pain, because I have to take out the tubes and turn the bottles around so that Co2 is not passing through), or add an air stone which provides oxygen and is safe when you have Co2 in the dark. Do you agree with that? Is it safe to leave Co2 open (though very small amount) overnight, when you have an air stone? Thanks, Dimos
  9. kingmitch84

    Co2 Drop Checker Liquid

    Gday all! I have a question regarding co2 drop checkers. I have to raise the KH to 4 with RO water. Question is, how do I do that? I only raise the GH for my shrimp with my RO water. Thanks team!
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