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  1. Hello everyone! My area of Michigan (48065) seems to be a black hole for shrimp enthusiasts, and my hope was to uncover folks I can buy shrimp (and hopefully moss) from locally. Since the pandemic has paused all face-to-face meetings for local clubs until further notice, it's been rough (and I can't imagine paying online retail ridiculous prices for shipped shrimp)! Since we only have the "City" field (for location) on profiles, is there a better way to find local people? I'd love any help you can offer.
  2. Shrimpfan111

    Need information

    Hello everyone, i need help, i have never kept shrimp before, but i wish to keep amano shrimp and a couple of aquatic snails, i need it to be amano shrimp because i don’t want them to breed until i become more experienced the question i’m asking is if anyone knows how to tell the difference between amano shrimp and whisker shrimp, i’ve heard horror stories of people getting the former or the latter when they wanted the opposite from uneducated petshop owners, and i have been told whisker shrimp are very aggressive, and i fear that if i ended up with any on accident that it would end badly for my other shrimp and my snails
  3. Re-posting here from The Shrimp Spot forum as I need help. Help, 40 litre tank has a ich (ichthyophtyirius multifiliis) / white spot outbreak. We've been able to separate the few surviving neon tetra into an emergency quarantine tank, with appropriate medicine for the fish. We had done this as we had noticed the issue practically too late as we miss identified the white spots as cotton mouth (which the tetra also have). We luckily quarantined the fish from the tank as the ich reached its second stage as most have matured and abandoned the fish. This has become an issue as even if the neon tetra do not survive the treatment, I cannot re-add them to the tank and I don't want to keep the tank's environment full of parasites. Thankfully ich seem to not be able to effect the shrimp but the medicine we have for them is toxic to the shrimp and the plants in the tank, hence the separating of the neon tetra. I was wondering if there was anything I can do to the tank while the shrimp are still in the tank, as removing them isn't a viable option. We've been trying to get the temp of the tank to 30C and leaving it at that temp for an hour, however the tank's heater is verry slow and doesn't seem to be going up past 27C. From what I've searched 30C should kill of the ich without irritating the bloody mary shrimp too much (too many websites vary their recommended temp, so I wouldn't keep it above 28C long if we were able to get it that high) If anyone knows if there are any ich treatments or methods of killing ich that are safe for invertebrates and potentially plants I would love if they could suggest one.
  4. Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance. The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up. For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods. But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted. Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked). Any input would be appreciated!
  5. Patrick Gagnon

    Unknown tenant.

    I recently put in an order for 12 blue dream and 12 cherry shrimp. The shipping was delayed, Harrisburg PA distribution is terrible. Took over 9 days for them to arrive. 0 DOA. Nice! Anyway I've had them now for I'd say 2 weeks. One already is pregnant! And I recently found a guest staying. I have copepods all over, I heard they are fine. I'm not sure what this is. Looks to have antennas, like a snail or something.
  6. Gading of Caridina logemanni, Caridina mariae and Taiwan Bee Shrimp has been a hot topic recently on various groups and there hasn't been a consistent application of grading across these shrimp. There is a lot of hearsay but nothing documented anywhere. As a result, to ensure we maintain a consistent approach to grading here and on our Facebook group, I'm putting forward draft gradings for feedback from the SKF community. Grading TableGradeDescriptionExamplesHigh> 90% total body coverage of the identifying colour the shrimp looks crisp and perfect to the naked eye may still have some small imperfections under magnification. Medium70% - 90% total body coverage of the identifying colour the shrimp is not as crisp also has some slight imperfections in the overall appearance with the naked eye. Low35% - 70% total body coverage of the identifying colour the shrimp has the appearance of being patchy and imperfect the overall appearance with the naked eye is poor. CullThe shrimp has reached a point that it is barely recognisable as belonging to the intended group also genetic and physical deformities etc that mean the shrimp should be removed from the general population. Championship: The shrimp must appear perfect and under magnification show no imperfections or blemishes. The perfect example with full body coverage of colour and pattern for the given variant. If anyone has examples that we can use in the final grading information, please attach your watermarked images here. Also, should the quality of the offspring be representative (or better) of the parents grade?
  7. Hey guys, just found an add for this website showcasing a cool-lookin native algae eating shrimp. https://algaeeatingshrimp.com.au/products/australian-algae-eating-shrimp Anyone heard of these before or own any? My interest was peaked by the claim that they eat hair-type algae, as I have some on my crypts and lace fern that I cannot remove. And for a price of $4 ea, and super easy parameters, they sound pretty doable! Tell me more oh great SKFians! ? (or feel free to point me towards an already existing page) post-note: have you/do you keep these grubs? Seems like your sort of thing.
  8. I have been a long time lurker on this forum and have learnt a lot from past and present members who have contributed to this forum. Thank you. This is my first 'real' post and I hope this would help anyone who might be considering building a rack themselves. As requested by @Disciple, hope this helps you too. Just a bit of background on my experience. My only previous build attempt was for a stand and sump for a 4x2x2. It was my first build dabbling with staining wood and using silicon for sump baffles, etc. As you can see from the photos below, they are pretty amateurish but I am happy for how it turned out as a first attempt. Next step is to fit some doors to it. The stand was built following this video by King of DIY. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jN4Y9AYuwcQ Anyway, this gives you an idea of the level of experience I have before I embark on my ambitious attempt to build a rack. Below are some photos of my 4x2x2, sump and stand build, and some of its inhabitants. Sorry they are not shrimp related and not of great quality taken using my phone. Stand and sump Filled up and planted. Display tank front view. Display tank side view. With background in place and tank inhabitants added consisting of altum flora discus, german blue rams, panda corydoras, cardinal tetras, otocinclus, red cherry shrimps, darwin algae shrimps and darwin red nose shrimps. Altum flora discus. Panda corydoras. German blue rams with their fry. I have browsed many build threads including some from here and have built on my ideas collectively from different sources. The specific post from @BlueBolts here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/1415-breeding-rack-no2/ has inspired me greatly and I would like to acknowledge that. I followed the DIY rack build as outlined here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/7063-diy-rack-for-under-50-in-under-2hrs/ The plan, materials, and costs This rack will be located in the lounge room so it has to be 'display-ish' quality and light from it must not interfere with the TV or be too blinding to people sitting around the lounge room. Also, no unsightly hoses/pipes are to be seen. I managed to convince the Minister for Home Affairs that a canister filter and chiller by definition, is not categorised as hoses or pipes, and would be in no way unsightly. The LED display from the chiller would provide subtle mood lighting, and the gentle humming of the filter and soft soothe whirling of the chiller fan would be therapeutic for lounge surfers, and would also greatly enhance movie watching experience with enriched sound depth and effects. Hence I received approval to have a canister filter and chiller located next to the rack. I used 5 x 5.4m long 90x45mm MGP10 untreated structural pine bought and cut to size from Masters for $83.75. I find Masters generally sells timber cheaper than Bunnings. Since I have both of them close to where I live, I selectively buy what I need from where it is cheaper. The frame is held together by 10-8 x 75mm zinc plated countersunk screws. I bought a box of 250 screws from Bunnings for $27.50. The rack measures 1390 x 420 x 2200 mm (L x W x H). The plan is to hold 2 x 2'x15"x15" tanks on the top and middle tier each, and a 4'x15"x15" hospital/quarantine/grow out/sump tank on the bottom tier. Each tank would be insulated by 20mm foam around the sides, back and base as I plan to run both tropical (28-30 degrees C) and chilled (22-24 degrees C) tanks on this rack. Plumbing for air and sump would be hidden within the frame. Please disregard the mess in the background. Still sorting out stuff in the garage after the move. From this: To this:
  9. Okay, so the title pretty much says it all... One of my berried tts just moulted, and she left the eggs in the moult. What happened, and why? I'm going to try to save the eggs with some sort of extraction, and I'll be very careful. She was pretty far along. I think I'll use the net over bubbler method. Does anyone have experience with this, and particularly the extraction? I won't do anything until I have some idea to go off. Thanks in advance. Crabby Oh and the moult is under like 2 hours old. Wasn't there when I started watching a movie, was there when I checked back after. Going off this video: Hoping the process will be similar.
  10. Crabby

    My 110 L Community Tank

    Hey guys, I thought I’d just make a single topic for my community tank, so I stop running around in other chats asking the same questions ?. I’m going thru a big change in the tank at the moment, so will likely update in the morning with photos once the cloudiness is gone. Be prepared for a possibly very long message about a 10 hour process ?. Cheerio!
  11. Crabby

    My new 5 Gallon

    Hey folks! So I got myself a little 5 gallon (20L) recently (it was free!) to use for quarantine. I’m going to use it to qt some cory cats and maybe some tetras or gouramis for my community tank. The thing is, I’ve got it set up really nicely in my room and I want to have it actually stocked. I definitely don’t want a betta, but I found some super cute guppies on gumtree (Wild Thai Orchid) that I can never find locally. How many guppies do u think I could get in the tank?? The seller only has 4 pairs, so is selling in pairs but not trios, so that could have an affect on the amount. I also plan on adding shrimp, either of a neo or caridina variety, or native - like dae or chameleons. So my questions are: how many guppies could go in the tank (assuming they breed and I keep the babies in with them for about a month each time), could I fit in anything else (with a pair or 4), like a couple of chilli rasboras or rocket killies, and will the shrimps be enough for a cleanup crew, or should I add an Otto or something? Cheers!
  12. newbreed

    Newbreed Rack 2.0

    So, it's been a long time coming but Rack 2.0 is almost ready to roll. The original eight 40cm cubes were picked up in April this year. Made by Justin at Subscape Aquarium. Each cube came with cover glass and one hole pre-drilled. So I once again went with the Rack-it system from Bunnings. 900mm beams, three 40cm uprights. Also spent my time gathering the plumbing fittings and accessories. Was easier getting small amounts staggered over weeks than at one time. Was easier to stretch the dollars this way. I used 20mm PVC as a return, and then T-pieces with a 20mm Tap attached. 20mm Hose was used from here. As Squiggle has suggested many times, I replaced the mdf shelves suggested with a 18mm Marine Ply. I had the pre-cut at Bunnings as I am rubbish at measuring and cutting. Underneath each shelf I used structural pine 90x35mm pieces cut to length. They slot into the brackets relatively easily (with the help of a rubber mallet) and provide direct support for the tanks, as well as providing a space to attached hooks for lights, hoses, cords, etc. Again, staggered picking up different essentials along the way. Foam (and structural pine) Hoses
  13. Zoidburg

    Shrimp ID???

    Short info... I'm in USA I got these from a pet store They were being sold as something they clearly are not Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see) *NOT* Neocaridina *LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks* I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...) Female Male And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear) And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
  14. Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs. Cheers!
  15. Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs. Cheers!
  16. Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in. Previous tank parameters: Ammonia: 0 nitrite: 0 nitrates: 20ppm Ph: 8 substrate: sand Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay I don't know any other parameters. cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. New tank parameters: ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrates:30-40ppm co2: 3-4 bps Ph: 6.5 Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay substrate: ada aquasoil The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
  17. Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. Options ive thought of- 1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced 2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
  18. Hi ! I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay? I do have an RO system already, and I could remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate. Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ? Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby.
  19. Help please! I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please? We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
  20. KillieOrCory

    Shrimp with Corydoras cats

    I have decided to get a few more shrimp to create more tanks similar to the one I had a few years back in the video below. This 4 foot tank had a lot of corys and I had a population explosion of shrimps. Currently, I set one up with yellow cherries and another with orange rillis. Going to be looking for more shrimp when it starts to warm up a bit in Canberra.
  21. Gavin_EuphonyG

    Sump or No Sump system is better?

    Hi Guys and Shrimperts! Having owned 3, 5 & 10G tanks (All Neocaridina shrimps), I've taken the plunge and decided to build a shrimp rack and with new tanks. Size of the tank is 2.5ft(W) x 1.5ft(L) x 1.5ft(H) and will be divided to 3 columns. The upper most tank will house my Cardina and the middle tank will be the Neo's and the lowest is either a sump or just going to leave the rack space with the chiller only (I am from Malaysia). Basically in total, my plan is to have 6 divided tanks (3 each divided from the 2.5ft tank) and that is the max. amount of tanks, I may start a new rack next time should I decided to expand. 2 different local shrimp stores has given me separate suggestions for the shrimp tank water system and need your expertise and advice to see what's best. I am not restricted by their suggestion since I did told them that I want to have a simple water flow without having to drill holes to the tanks, but I don't mind getting my hands on plumbing and DIY Overflow stuff. The drafts are below for your suggestions, I'm all ears. Thank you in advance!
  22. Hi I'm an animal enthusiast with many frogs snakes and arachnids but it's my first attempt at caring for cherry shrimp..i researched with my girlfriend quite a bit and already set up a planted tank in a nano 2.6gallon aquarium. It will be cycling and until then I just wanted some feedback on how it looks and what y'all think about it? Thankyou ~
  23. Hi, I am trying to prepare my aquarium for shrimp -- in particular Riffle Shrimp. After reading that these are escape experts I was momentarily put off the idea because I was aware of definite escape routes that they could easily crawl along and out through. But I'd quickly pushed that reluctance aside to focus on a solution. There has to be one. SKF forum members surely have one. Escape routes in my set up are: specifically the filter inlet and outlet, along with light attachment clips and wave-maker power cord. I first thought of perspex cut to fit, but that would be near impossible to fit perfectly and I suspect they only need 2-3 mm to squeeze through? I figured something that was flexible/moldable would be more suitable. I was thinking maybe some fine stainless wire mesh that's used for moss attachment? But that's probably a bit expensive for the size of the pieces i'd need? Or flywire? Or perhaps some security door screen, but i'd be worried about paint leeching into the water as that stuff may likely rust with time? Anyone have any ideas? I couldn't find a thread/topic when I searched of 'shrimp escaping'. I'm pretty sure someone here has a simple solution. What do you do to stop your shrimp escaping? D Apologies to Admin: I originally thought to add this to my thread on Riffles as I thought it was appropriate under the topic of planning a tank set up for them, but I was unable to add a further photo to illustrate what I'm trying to find a solution for (I'd reached the image upload limit). I figure this topic fits under 'Shrimp Health & Care'. Please move or delete or edit as you see fit. Thank you.
  24. Hi I am new with caridinas and I want to make a shrimp rack to keep them. It would have four shelves and in each one of them would fit an aquarium of 82.5x29.5x15'5 and I want to divide it into two or three or four partitions that water communicate between them somehow but I do not know how to do it. Some suggestions to make the dives so that water is shared among all and that the young can not pass from one to another. I added an image where you can see how the possible divisions would be interesting to divide it into four partitions but every division is very small and I want them to be communicated to compensate that they are small aquariums and achieve a greater stability of water parameters altogether all of them. Sorry for my English I tried to do my best because I am from Spain and I am not English speaking. Greetings and thanks.
  25. There have been a few rumblings from Bob, Kiz and I about a new shrimp to the hobby, and possibly a new shrimp to science , which for the moment we will call Caridina sp. 'Malanda'. Thanks to Kiz for putting up some excellent pics of the shrimp themselves, which can be found here: Having kept both the Caridina sp. Malanda and the shrimp collected from Barney Springs (another possibly unidentified shrimp which we are calling Caridina sp. "Barney Springs", also rare in the hobby), they are quite similar in size, shape and colour and, in my opinion, could likely be the same species. These are currently with Ura for taxonomy so we will have some more info on taxonomy soon. Thanks @‌Ura. Anyway this is a report from where the shrimp were found (May, 2015). Water parameters were: TDS: 17 pH: 7.4 - Water sample was taken from within the riffles which would tend to cause CO2 to gas off and therefore boost pH. Temperature: 19*C KH: < 10 ppm GH: < 20 ppm Short video - excuse the rainy conditions We found the shrimp only in one specific location - just upstream of where Bob is standing, in the long grass at the edge of the stream. We sampled further upstream, across the other side of the creek and downstream, and found none, including in areas where the grass was growing in a similar manner to where we did find them. This is just a shot from further upstream, around the corner from the above shot. The creekbed within the riffles was rock, mostly covered in algae and some silt. there were no shrimp in this area. The shrimp were found hard in against the bank, right at the interface between the water, the bank and the grass hanging into the water. The shrimp were clearly coloured by sex - females were reddish, males blue. Note the large eggs for this species = easy to breed. Male - Top Female - Bottom We also found a species of rainbowfish in the eddies at the base of the riffles, a species of gudgeon, some sponges growing on the bedrock in the riffles and some macros (Macrobrachium sp.). None were in the same habitat as the Malanda shrimp. This macro had a parasite attached - nasty!
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