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  1. Crystal Jade

    Blue Velvet Shrimp

    So I lost 3 shrimp today - two out of my 8 Blue Velvet Shrimp and my one Blue Dream. I don't know why or what the cause was although my guesses involve either overfeeding or possibly water shock from a small water change. My parameters are as follows: GH: 5-6 KH: 5 PH: 7.6 Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: 0.25 ppm Water temp: 68-78 degrees F My water is tinged green and I have 4 live plants (including a Java fern), a moss ball, an Indian Almond Leaf, and a Rock in the tank itself as well as one small snail. I got a siphon pump today to be able to do easier water changes. How would one go about water changes in an area that is a bit colder than many other places? I started using cold water after making a mistake on using hot water which could have been a problem... but now that things are a bit more in place I want to try and get stuff settled. If I got more shrimp: how long should I drip acclimate? What would be the best way to use tap water for water changes when I only have one heater? Or would I want to use distilled water? How often should I feed the shrimp? I keep reading all sorts of different tips and views. Is it okay and normal for shrimp to hide under the rock? I have some (4) pretty small and pretty transparent shrimp that I haven't seen since I introduced them into my tank. I don't want to move my rock and find dead shrimp underneath...Maybe I should just give up? I don't want to but maybe I should figure out what is up with my tank first. Because I have no clue why this is happening. Is it my Nitrate and Nitrite levels?
  2. The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley Overview The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. Water chemistry A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in; pH: 8-8.2 Ammonia:0ppm Nitrate:0ppm Nitrite:0ppm KH:125ppm *25% water changes are done weekly* Breeding and Husbandry Key points for their care; Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best. Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults. Mulm and moss are essential. A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females. Feeding Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues. Common questions I am asked As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: [email protected] "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; Major issue that needs to be addressed Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide. Thank you for reading my article, again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species. Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley
  3. The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley Overview The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. Water chemistry A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in; pH: 8-8.2 Ammonia:0ppm Nitrate:0ppm Nitrite:0ppm KH:125ppm *25% water changes are done weekly* Breeding and Husbandry Key points for their care; Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best. Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults. Mulm and moss are essential. A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females. Feeding Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues. Common questions I am asked As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: [email protected] "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; Major issue that needs to be addressed Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide. Thank you for reading my article, again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species. Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley View full article
  4. Hello! I'm new here and not sure if this is the way to ask questions or not so please let me know if I'm meant to do it some other way. I recently received 3 nerite snails last Wednesday and two were DOA (dead on arrival). Actually, there wasnt even anything inside the two shells!! One however, was alive but in bad shape as its shell was not in good condition so I am going to provide it with calcium powder soon. I've read that they take a little time to adjust to new environments but the little guy hasnt moved since he arrived. I gently tugged on his trapdoor and he resisted so I assume he is alive as he also doesn't smell rotten. I've tried putting kale or algae wafers under him but nothing ): Does fluval stratum substrate have copper in it because I've heard that they are sensitive to copper and that is the substrate I am using which I didnt even think about! I was also wondering if there were any Aussie sellers here that have any of the black nerite snail variety? I heard that they are legal here but please correct me if I am wrong. So sorry for the long post.. any response would be greatly appreciated! ?
  5. Hi All, Have prepared a small write up regarding the requirement of trace elements for shrimps. Ulli Bauer have helped me a lot in finalizing it. Please go through the document once you have time. If any one have any valid points to add please let me know, I will add it into the document and acknowledgment will be given to you. https://shrimpytrade.wordpress.com/2015/12/10/shrimps-their-trace-elements-requirement/
  6. What makes a good shrimp net? It can be materials, price, function, does it catch shrimp successfully? I've used had many shrimp nets, and the best ones, that actually catch shrimp easily, are the ones whose net stays open and forms a little cup that does not scare the shrimp into swimming the other way when you try to catch them. Because it is not obstructed and looks like an escape route, the shrimp just seem to swim right in. Unlike soft, floppy nets, that look like a barrier. These nets don't have enough stiffness to keep the net open. The solution? A cable tie cut into the appropriate length to keep the net open. Carefully place it into the net like so ... There you have it. A $2 net that will now catch shrimp like the $30 one I have. Jayc.
  7. What makes a good shrimp net? It can be materials, price, function, does it catch shrimp successfully? I've used had many shrimp nets, and the best ones, that actually catch shrimp easily, are the ones whose net stays open and forms a little cup that does not scare the shrimp into swimming the other way when you try to catch them. Because it is not obstructed and looks like an escape route, the shrimp just seem to swim right in. Unlike soft, floppy nets, that look like a barrier. These nets don't have enough stiffness to keep the net open. The solution? A cable tie cut into the appropriate length to keep the net open. Carefully place it into the net like so ... There you have it. A $2 net that will now catch shrimp like the $30 one I have. Jayc. View full article
  8. Was taught this from 2OFUS I have suffered the catastrophe of losing a tank full of shrimp after having to bomb for cockroaches in a house we rented a while ago and left my air pumps on and my tank unprotected. Here is how you can successfully bomb for cockroaches and fleas safely without an impact on your shrimp. What you need - Lots of cling wrap. Time Towels and sheets Step 1 Step one is to wrap your entire tank(s) in cling wrap. I did this a with two layers of cling wrap which cover the glass and over the lids. You want to ensure there are no gaps in your cling wrap. Step 2 Wrap some wet old bed sheets around the top of your tank or utilise wet some towels. You then want to place the towels over the top of the tank, the idea of the sheets and towels being wet is to catch any of the pesticide particles and have them settle on the towel as opposed to entering any gaps you cant see. I utilized 3 towels for extra precaution Step 3 Repeat step 1 and wrap another layer of cling around the tank and towels. Step 4 Turn off all air pumps and wrap them in cling wrap. The last thing you want is any pesticide from the spray landing n your pump and being pushed into the water column when you turn the pumps back on. Step 5 Wrap you cabinet in cling wrap, my cabinet is an open back so was imperative that i covered it. You want to ensure any gaps in the doors and what not are covered. Step 6 Wrap any items which go into your tank in cling wrap or remove them from the room which is being sprayed. This might include things such as nets, gravel vacs, air hosing and even containers holding your food. You do not want pesticide on the outside of your container and you touch it before feeding your shrimp. Another big one is Buckets! Last thing you want is insecticide in a bucket and you do a water change! Step 7 Wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after removing the cling wrap and towels. It sounds like overkill but the last time i utilized this method was to deal with a flea infestation and would not put my shrimp before my families well being. Thankfully utilizing this i was able to keep both safe without 1 loss my shrimp!
  9. Was taught this from 2OFUS I have suffered the catastrophe of losing a tank full of shrimp after having to bomb for cockroaches in a house we rented a while ago and left my air pumps on and my tank unprotected. Here is how you can successfully bomb for cockroaches and fleas safely without an impact on your shrimp. What you need - Lots of cling wrap. Time Towels and sheets Step 1 Step one is to wrap your entire tank(s) in cling wrap. I did this a with two layers of cling wrap which cover the glass and over the lids. You want to ensure there are no gaps in your cling wrap. Step 2 Wrap some wet old bed sheets around the top of your tank or utilise wet some towels. You then want to place the towels over the top of the tank, the idea of the sheets and towels being wet is to catch any of the pesticide particles and have them settle on the towel as opposed to entering any gaps you cant see. I utilized 3 towels for extra precaution Step 3 Repeat step 1 and wrap another layer of cling around the tank and towels. Step 4 Turn off all air pumps and wrap them in cling wrap. The last thing you want is any pesticide from the spray landing n your pump and being pushed into the water column when you turn the pumps back on. Step 5 Wrap you cabinet in cling wrap, my cabinet is an open back so was imperative that i covered it. You want to ensure any gaps in the doors and what not are covered. Step 6 Wrap any items which go into your tank in cling wrap or remove them from the room which is being sprayed. This might include things such as nets, gravel vacs, air hosing and even containers holding your food. You do not want pesticide on the outside of your container and you touch it before feeding your shrimp. Another big one is Buckets! Last thing you want is insecticide in a bucket and you do a water change! Step 7 Wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after removing the cling wrap and towels. It sounds like overkill but the last time i utilized this method was to deal with a flea infestation and would not put my shrimp before my families well being. Thankfully utilizing this i was able to keep both safe without 1 loss my shrimp! View full article
  10. CNgo2006

    DIY Shrimp Caves

    Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial What was used was: Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better! For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you! in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!
  11. Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial What was used was: Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better! For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you! in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save! View full article
  12. CNgo2006

    DIY Shrimp Safe Filter Guard

    These can be made to fit any size tubing at the fraction of the cost of what is sold and is so very easy to make. So lets get started! Note: It is recommended that you use protective goggles and gloves, as frayed mesh wires can get pretty sharp. Here is what you will need to make the filter guard: Stainless Steel Mesh sheet hole size #30 (can be purchased at the mesh company online, I got the A3 size sheet which is enough for a lot of guards!) Tin snips Heat Shrink (depending on the size of your tube get the heat shrink at least 5mm bigger, can be purchased eBay) Heat source (Lighter, hair dryer, heat gun, etc) A tube of the size required Pencil, marker Ruler Cable ties Craft knife Steps Prepare cable ties as you will need both hands free Cut mesh sheet to size depending on how long you want the guard and how thin the tube is (I cut mine 10cmx10cm) and wrap tightly around the tube, secure tightly with cable ties Cut another piece of mesh depending on the width of the mesh wrapped around tube (mine was 18mm), cut a square piece (18x18mm), place on end of mesh and bend corners over Cut a bit of heat shrink (mine was 2cm) and place over the mesh making sure the piece of mesh covering the end stays in place, leave about 0.5cm above. Using the heat source you are using (I just used a lighter) and heat the heat shrink until it shrinks tightly around the mesh (make sure you don't heat the same place for too long as it will melt! Just quickly run the flame over the shrink) and then quickly push the end down on a flat surface for a minute. The outcome should be something like this (you can use the craft knife to make the opening bigger if you wish) Now for the other end, repeat the steps above but shove the tube in instead. Leave for a minute or so. Remove the tube and cut the cable ties, cut a thin bit of heat shrink to place in middle of guard for extra support, heat it until tight. And there you have it, your DIY filter guard. For a fraction of the cost you can make all the filter guards needed, can be HOB, canister, overflow pipe, etc. for your 20 shrimp tanks!
  13. I utilised this method when moving house last January. I have given this as advice on the forum previously a long time ago but not written as an article. Unfortunately i didn't take photos because i was moving house but i have obtained images of the main items required and done an image in paint to explain the holes. i hope this will suffice?. You will require: 20 litre bucket with lid (Source from bunnings or masters) Sponge filter I recommend the ones which have suction caps and a minimum of two if you go for single sponge. Optimum at least 2 dual sponge filters Battery operated air pump. Air hose Drill or sharp pointed object. Excess plants (the more the better) pH buffering substrate. Preparation Step 1: Ensure your sponge filters are running on your existing tank for as long as possible to ensure you have beneficial bacteria culture growing on the filters. The longer they are running the better. Step 2: Take the lid from your bucket and make holes in the lid. The holes should be big enough for your air hose to fit through one of the holes and I did the extras to ensure new air was able to enter the bucket. Mine was done in a similar pattern to this Step 3: Add existent tank water to the bucket. I would recommend at least 3 quarters full as if you are unfortunate enough to suffer an ammonia spike etc (worst case) the more water the lower the impact in theory. Be mindful of how much you add due to holes in the lid, the more the water the more chance of spillage. Step 4: Add some of your existing substrate to the bottom of the bucket. I used benibachi for the ph buffering ability which had already been in my tank. I felt it would assist in reducing stress due to resembling the tank. Step 5: You want to add the sponge filters to the inside of the bucket and thread your air hose through the holes in the lid. Step 6: Add any plants you have available to your bucket. The aim of the plants is to assist the bacteria on the sponge filters in maintaining healthy water due to the small amount. I utilised needle leaf java fern and it also provides a food source for the shrimp. Step 7: Add your shrimp and turn on the sponge filters and replace the lid on the bucket. Step 8: Store the bucket out of direct sunlight during travel and storage at arriving destination to prevent major fluctuations in water temperature. I had approximately 5 CBS inclusive of shrimplets in a bucket utilising this method alive for close to two weeks. They survived 8 hour car trip and then about 12 days whilst my tank cycled being set up in the new house with temperatures averaging over 35 degrees a day. TIPS: Prepare your sponge filters in the tank and have them running for as long as possible prior to transfer. The later you leave your shrimp to be added to the bucket the better. Keep your bucket out of direct sunlight to avoid over heating and mass fluctuations in water temperature. Avoid over feeding your shrimp as you dont want an ammonia spike from left over food. Depending on amount of plants these should be sufficient to supply micro organisms to feed on the leaves. Battery air pumps are also able to be used in a black out so dont throw them away.
  14. I utilised this method when moving house last January. I have given this as advice on the forum previously a long time ago but not written as an article. Unfortunately i didn't take photos because i was moving house but i have obtained images of the main items required and done an image in paint to explain the holes. i hope this will suffice?. You will require: 20 litre bucket with lid (Source from bunnings or masters) Sponge filter I recommend the ones which have suction caps and a minimum of two if you go for single sponge. Optimum at least 2 dual sponge filters Battery operated air pump. Air hose Drill or sharp pointed object. Excess plants (the more the better) pH buffering substrate. Preparation Step 1: Ensure your sponge filters are running on your existing tank for as long as possible to ensure you have beneficial bacteria culture growing on the filters. The longer they are running the better. Step 2: Take the lid from your bucket and make holes in the lid. The holes should be big enough for your air hose to fit through one of the holes and I did the extras to ensure new air was able to enter the bucket. Mine was done in a similar pattern to this Step 3: Add existent tank water to the bucket. I would recommend at least 3 quarters full as if you are unfortunate enough to suffer an ammonia spike etc (worst case) the more water the lower the impact in theory. Be mindful of how much you add due to holes in the lid, the more the water the more chance of spillage. Step 4: Add some of your existing substrate to the bottom of the bucket. I used benibachi for the ph buffering ability which had already been in my tank. I felt it would assist in reducing stress due to resembling the tank. Step 5: You want to add the sponge filters to the inside of the bucket and thread your air hose through the holes in the lid. Step 6: Add any plants you have available to your bucket. The aim of the plants is to assist the bacteria on the sponge filters in maintaining healthy water due to the small amount. I utilised needle leaf java fern and it also provides a food source for the shrimp. Step 7: Add your shrimp and turn on the sponge filters and replace the lid on the bucket. Step 8: Store the bucket out of direct sunlight during travel and storage at arriving destination to prevent major fluctuations in water temperature. I had approximately 5 CBS inclusive of shrimplets in a bucket utilising this method alive for close to two weeks. They survived 8 hour car trip and then about 12 days whilst my tank cycled being set up in the new house with temperatures averaging over 35 degrees a day. TIPS: Prepare your sponge filters in the tank and have them running for as long as possible prior to transfer. The later you leave your shrimp to be added to the bucket the better. Keep your bucket out of direct sunlight to avoid over heating and mass fluctuations in water temperature. Avoid over feeding your shrimp as you dont want an ammonia spike from left over food. Depending on amount of plants these should be sufficient to supply micro organisms to feed on the leaves. Battery air pumps are also able to be used in a black out so dont throw them away. View full article
  15. jayc

    Edible Flowers for Shrimp

    Article - Edible Flowers for Shrimps We have been discussed and talked about feeding shrimp leaves and fruits on many occasions. And the results are quite well documented in the use of leaves like Mulberry, Oak, Indian Almond (Kattapa), etc. However, the idea of feeding shrimp flowers is still very new. After all in the wild, things like leaves, twigs, branches AND flowers all drop into rivers where native shrimps will use a food source. In terms of nutritional value, you will find nutrients and minerals in flowers that are lacking in leaves (and vice versa). I'll expand on one of the main benefits of a nutrient found in flowers that aren't present in leaves a bit later. HOWEVER, NOT ALL FLOWERS ARE SAFE FOR EATING!! So we will start with those flowers that are known to be edible. Of course that are literally hundreds of varieties of edible flowers. We all know about cauliflower and broccoli, those are some common flowers we eat regularly. My experiment is limited to what I could source close by. The flowers I tested on my shrimp include Rose, Nasturtium, Dandelion, Chrysanthemum and Pansies. Caveat: I KNOW for sure that these flowers in my backyard have not been sprayed with anything else apart from tap water and rain. No pesticides, fertilisers. If in doubt, DON'T use it. You could try other flowers that are easily sourced in your garden. But please note - I have limited my research and experiments to flowers only. Not the leaves of these flowers. As a cautionary warning, some leaves are sappy and oily, and might not be too safe to feed your shrimp. So I take no responsibility with the leaves of these flowers. Although, Ineke has fed Nasturtium leaves to her shrimp which they seem to like and was safe as mentioned in another thread. Preparation: 1) Pick fresh looking flowers with no visible damage. Select flowers that you KNOW have no previous pesticides or fertilisers, and don't grow down stream from sources of water that might be contaminated. 2) Gently wash them (flowers are very delicate and soft) if there is dirt on them. 3) Remove as much of the base of the flower (the stem, receptacle and sepal). Usually only the petals are what we want. 4a) Place into tank fresh. (Recommended) 4b) Or Blanch it for 1-2 minutes in hot boiling water. Remember, flowers are soft, they don't need to be blanched for much longer. (not a necessary step). 4c) Freezing or Drying. While it's possible to freeze or dry flowers for storage and feeding at a later date, I'm not sure what nutrients will be lost. 5) Ensure any decayed leftovers are removed if left uneaten after a few days. Review of the flowers: I have searched high and low in the scientific literature for quantitative data on the nutrient content of flower petals. There are relatively few references, particularly in English. Most of the literature is focused on evaluating flowers for their sensory characteristics, such as appeal, size, shape, colour, taste, and above all, aroma, which is important for the cosmetic and perfume industry. Available data on a number of edible flowers show that petals also contain an array of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamins A and C, various B vitamins, folic acid, and minerals including calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and phosphorus. Apart from the nutritional value of flowers with the abundance of vitamins and minerals, flowers also contain a huge amounts of carotenoids and flavonoids compared to leaves. Specifically, Crytoxanthin, Zeaxanthin and Lutein which is obviously lacking in the leaves. Just look at the pretty colours of flowers. Zeaxanthin and Lutein has been known as a natural source of colour enhancement in fish (and maybe shrimp). These carotenoids are regularly added to fish food from sources like spirulina. Zeaxanthin enhances the Reds and Oranges while Lutein enhances Yellows. Flowers are also high in antioxidants, they are antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory. This sounds too good to be true. It's like feeding medicine to your shrimps to fight viruses and bacteria. On to the review of specific flowers. Dandelions: Say what?! That's a weed! It sure is, and I have heaps growing in my front garden. Now I have a use for them. Dandelion is a perennial plant with jagged, bright green leaves to 30cm long, a hollow flower stem to 30cm and one terminal yellow daisy. Has been subject of many studies investigating it's ability to even fight cancer! Dandelions, contain numerous flavonoids and carotenoids with antioxidant properties, including four times the beta carotene of broccoli, as well as lutein, cryptoxanthin and zeaxanthin. They are also a rich source of vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, pyroxidine, niacin, and vitamins A, B, C and D. Minerals including iron, potassium and zinc. The rich yellow colour of dandelion flowers comes from beta-carotene - Lutein specifically. Side note: the leaves are apparently also really high in Calcium (187mg per 100g), rivalling Mulberry leaves. But I have not tried feeding Dandelion leaves, nor do I know if they are safe. But people eat them. The Chinese, European and Native American have been using the dandelion plant for centuries to treat digestive, kidney and liver ailments. I fed my shrimp a fresh dandelion as one experiment. The first day in the tank, the shrimp investigated it, but didn't seem to be eating. It wasn't till the 3 day that I noticed them actually munching on the flower. The petals probably needed to soften first. The second experiment was with a blanched dandelion. This time the shrimp took to it the same day. And average sized flower was consumed within 3-4 days in my tank. Verdict: Big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. Nasturtiums: Nasturtium is a PERENNIAL growing to 0.5 m (1ft 8in) by 1 m (3ft 3in). It is part of the Watercress family. The most common variety is Tropaeolum majus. The peppery flowers are good in salads and pasta dishes. A 2009 study by the Universidad Nacional de Colombia identified the group of phenols or phenolic compounds in the pigments of orange and red flowers of Tropaeolum majus as anthocyanins. Anthocyanins, which are abundant in blueberries and red cabbage, help neutralise the damaging effects of free radicals, thereby helping to protect us from chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer. Anthocyanins are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer and antioxidant. Nasturtiums are high in Vitamin C, about 45 milligrams vitamin C per 100 grams, and also contain Vitamin A and flavonoids anti-oxidants like - carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin. They also contain Minerals like Iron, Calcium. Nasturtiums might not pack as much nutritional value as dandelions, but it sounds great to feed shrimp occasionally, to combat diseases due to it's antibiotic, antiseptic, and antifungal properties. I fed Nasturtium flowers to my shrimp in a similar fashion to Dandelions. Fresh and Blanched. The shrimp had very similar reactions. They ate it when the flowers were soft. Verdict: Another big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. I do have one shrimp that looks unwell. I'm keeping an eye to it to see if there are any improvements. I won't go into detailed reviews on the Rose, Pansies or Chrysanthemum flowers, as I couldn't find much information on it's nutritional value. But the results are very similar. There are dozens of other edible flowers that could be introduced to your shrimp as long as you take the necessary precautions on where you collect these flowers. Some other possibilities include: Daisies, Sunflowers, Daylilies, Violets, Tulips. Just a word of caution for anyone trying. Please stick to flowers we know are edible. If in doubt check this list. http://www.westcoast...edible-flowers/ Many flowers have antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities. If you have suspected recent bacterial issues with your shrimps lately, try feeding flowers and report back on your findings. These are some, and by no means the only, flowers that exhibit antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities:- Basil flowers, Bee Balm (Bergamot) flowers, Borage flowers, Echinacea flowers, Pot Marigold flowers, Chamomile flowers, Chrysanthemums flowers, Garlic flowers, Nasturtiums flowers, Onion flowers, Oregano flowers, Pansy flowers and Violet flowers. Please note - I am talking about the flowers here. So when you see Basil for example, that's the Basil flowers, not the leaves. Even-though the Basil leaves are edible, I cannot vouch for the leaves from some of these other flowers. If nothing else, this is another nutritious, natural food source for shrimps. My shrimps have shown to love eating flowers, and usually devour them within 1 to 2 days after placing in the tank. Hold the flowers down the same way you'd hold mulberry leaves or other plant foods down. While we are at it, it's probably best to name some flowers to AVOID, as these are considered poisonous. Primulas, Primroses, Polyanthus, Iris, Daffodils, Nghtshade, box wood, foxgloves, amaryllis, clematis, bryony, buttercups, begonia, columbine, lily of the valley, sweet pea, Brachycome, Nolana, Rudbeckia, periwinkle, oleander, dogbane, aconite.
  16. Article - Edible Flowers for Shrimps We have been discussed and talked about feeding shrimp leaves and fruits on many occasions. And the results are quite well documented in the use of leaves like Mulberry, Oak, Indian Almond (Kattapa), etc. However, the idea of feeding shrimp flowers is still very new. After all in the wild, things like leaves, twigs, branches AND flowers all drop into rivers where native shrimps will use a food source. In terms of nutritional value, you will find nutrients and minerals in flowers that are lacking in leaves (and vice versa). I'll expand on one of the main benefits of a nutrient found in flowers that aren't present in leaves a bit later. HOWEVER, NOT ALL FLOWERS ARE SAFE FOR EATING!! So we will start with those flowers that are known to be edible. Of course that are literally hundreds of varieties of edible flowers. We all know about cauliflower and broccoli, those are some common flowers we eat regularly. My experiment is limited to what I could source close by. The flowers I tested on my shrimp include Rose, Nasturtium, Dandelion, Chrysanthemum and Pansies. Caveat: I KNOW for sure that these flowers in my backyard have not been sprayed with anything else apart from tap water and rain. No pesticides, fertilisers. If in doubt, DON'T use it. You could try other flowers that are easily sourced in your garden. But please note - I have limited my research and experiments to flowers only. Not the leaves of these flowers. As a cautionary warning, some leaves are sappy and oily, and might not be too safe to feed your shrimp. So I take no responsibility with the leaves of these flowers. Although, Ineke has fed Nasturtium leaves to her shrimp which they seem to like and was safe as mentioned in another thread. Preparation: 1) Pick fresh looking flowers with no visible damage. Select flowers that you KNOW have no previous pesticides or fertilisers, and don't grow down stream from sources of water that might be contaminated. 2) Gently wash them (flowers are very delicate and soft) if there is dirt on them. 3) Remove as much of the base of the flower (the stem, receptacle and sepal). Usually only the petals are what we want. 4a) Place into tank fresh. (Recommended) 4b) Or Blanch it for 1-2 minutes in hot boiling water. Remember, flowers are soft, they don't need to be blanched for much longer. (not a necessary step). 4c) Freezing or Drying. While it's possible to freeze or dry flowers for storage and feeding at a later date, I'm not sure what nutrients will be lost. 5) Ensure any decayed leftovers are removed if left uneaten after a few days. Review of the flowers: I have searched high and low in the scientific literature for quantitative data on the nutrient content of flower petals. There are relatively few references, particularly in English. Most of the literature is focused on evaluating flowers for their sensory characteristics, such as appeal, size, shape, colour, taste, and above all, aroma, which is important for the cosmetic and perfume industry. Available data on a number of edible flowers show that petals also contain an array of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamins A and C, various B vitamins, folic acid, and minerals including calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and phosphorus. Apart from the nutritional value of flowers with the abundance of vitamins and minerals, flowers also contain a huge amounts of carotenoids and flavonoids compared to leaves. Specifically, Crytoxanthin, Zeaxanthin and Lutein which is obviously lacking in the leaves. Just look at the pretty colours of flowers. Zeaxanthin and Lutein has been known as a natural source of colour enhancement in fish (and maybe shrimp). These carotenoids are regularly added to fish food from sources like spirulina. Zeaxanthin enhances the Reds and Oranges while Lutein enhances Yellows. Flowers are also high in antioxidants, they are antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory. This sounds too good to be true. It's like feeding medicine to your shrimps to fight viruses and bacteria. On to the review of specific flowers. Dandelions: Say what?! That's a weed! It sure is, and I have heaps growing in my front garden. Now I have a use for them. Dandelion is a perennial plant with jagged, bright green leaves to 30cm long, a hollow flower stem to 30cm and one terminal yellow daisy. Has been subject of many studies investigating it's ability to even fight cancer! Dandelions, contain numerous flavonoids and carotenoids with antioxidant properties, including four times the beta carotene of broccoli, as well as lutein, cryptoxanthin and zeaxanthin. They are also a rich source of vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, pyroxidine, niacin, and vitamins A, B, C and D. Minerals including iron, potassium and zinc. The rich yellow colour of dandelion flowers comes from beta-carotene - Lutein specifically. Side note: the leaves are apparently also really high in Calcium (187mg per 100g), rivalling Mulberry leaves. But I have not tried feeding Dandelion leaves, nor do I know if they are safe. But people eat them. The Chinese, European and Native American have been using the dandelion plant for centuries to treat digestive, kidney and liver ailments. I fed my shrimp a fresh dandelion as one experiment. The first day in the tank, the shrimp investigated it, but didn't seem to be eating. It wasn't till the 3 day that I noticed them actually munching on the flower. The petals probably needed to soften first. The second experiment was with a blanched dandelion. This time the shrimp took to it the same day. And average sized flower was consumed within 3-4 days in my tank. Verdict: Big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. Nasturtiums: Nasturtium is a PERENNIAL growing to 0.5 m (1ft 8in) by 1 m (3ft 3in). It is part of the Watercress family. The most common variety is Tropaeolum majus. The peppery flowers are good in salads and pasta dishes. A 2009 study by the Universidad Nacional de Colombia identified the group of phenols or phenolic compounds in the pigments of orange and red flowers of Tropaeolum majus as anthocyanins. Anthocyanins, which are abundant in blueberries and red cabbage, help neutralise the damaging effects of free radicals, thereby helping to protect us from chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer. Anthocyanins are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer and antioxidant. Nasturtiums are high in Vitamin C, about 45 milligrams vitamin C per 100 grams, and also contain Vitamin A and flavonoids anti-oxidants like - carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin. They also contain Minerals like Iron, Calcium. Nasturtiums might not pack as much nutritional value as dandelions, but it sounds great to feed shrimp occasionally, to combat diseases due to it's antibiotic, antiseptic, and antifungal properties. I fed Nasturtium flowers to my shrimp in a similar fashion to Dandelions. Fresh and Blanched. The shrimp had very similar reactions. They ate it when the flowers were soft. Verdict: Another big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. I do have one shrimp that looks unwell. I'm keeping an eye to it to see if there are any improvements. I won't go into detailed reviews on the Rose, Pansies or Chrysanthemum flowers, as I couldn't find much information on it's nutritional value. But the results are very similar. There are dozens of other edible flowers that could be introduced to your shrimp as long as you take the necessary precautions on where you collect these flowers. Some other possibilities include: Daisies, Sunflowers, Daylilies, Violets, Tulips. Just a word of caution for anyone trying. Please stick to flowers we know are edible. If in doubt check this list. http://www.westcoast...edible-flowers/ Many flowers have antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities. If you have suspected recent bacterial issues with your shrimps lately, try feeding flowers and report back on your findings. These are some, and by no means the only, flowers that exhibit antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities:- Basil flowers, Bee Balm (Bergamot) flowers, Borage flowers, Echinacea flowers, Pot Marigold flowers, Chamomile flowers, Chrysanthemums flowers, Garlic flowers, Nasturtiums flowers, Onion flowers, Oregano flowers, Pansy flowers and Violet flowers. Please note - I am talking about the flowers here. So when you see Basil for example, that's the Basil flowers, not the leaves. Even-though the Basil leaves are edible, I cannot vouch for the leaves from some of these other flowers. If nothing else, this is another nutritious, natural food source for shrimps. My shrimps have shown to love eating flowers, and usually devour them within 1 to 2 days after placing in the tank. Hold the flowers down the same way you'd hold mulberry leaves or other plant foods down. While we are at it, it's probably best to name some flowers to AVOID, as these are considered poisonous. Primulas, Primroses, Polyanthus, Iris, Daffodils, Nghtshade, box wood, foxgloves, amaryllis, clematis, bryony, buttercups, begonia, columbine, lily of the valley, sweet pea, Brachycome, Nolana, Rudbeckia, periwinkle, oleander, dogbane, aconite. View full article
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