Recently decided to invest in an RODI unit to improve the quality of the water in my shrimp tanks and reduce the margin for any catastrophic deaths. However, sadly my LFS doesn't seem to carry anymore SS Bee Shrimp GH+ minerals. The owner does however have the fish version for soft-water environments and he claims that there isnt a difference. The dosage amount seems similar between the two as well. Does anyone have any experience with using it with shrimp?
The packaging looks like this in case anyone was wondering!
Thanks in advance!!
I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread:
I made mine with the following materials
- x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
- A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
- A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design.
NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
So I made this:
The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.
A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.
The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system.
My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
This is the new and improved steriliser.
its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe.
2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water.
Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is.
Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer.
Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together,
You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder,
I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones.
I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank.
its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha
I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto.
Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
What was used was:
Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!