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    • Josh16622
      By Josh16622
      Has anyone successfully made a DIY remineralizer like Jay's one but for sulawesi? I'm interested to know, because if possible I too would want to make my own, but if nobody has experience with it, I'll get the Salty Shrimp mineral for sulawesi.
    • Shrimp>Wife
      By Shrimp>Wife
      Hi Everyone,
      I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread: 
      https://skfaquatics.com/forum/topic/9455-cooling-multiple-tanks/
      I made mine with the following materials
      - x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
      - A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
      - A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
      For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
      For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
      Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design. 
      NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
      I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
      I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      So after messing around with making a diy steriliser, I have calculated by the time I get a digital timer to run the minute incriments required for an aquarium steriliser to work well, I'll be at around $50 or so anyway and for the sake of my own valuable time, and knowing it's a renouned trusted product being used in my tanks, for this price I just bought the chihiros shrimp doctor- I really shouldn't have, now I'm broke again haha.
      I got this to try to further inhibit algae (I don't really need to) but mostly to help my Ottos in the 4ft build I finished recently.
      I made payment to Hinterfeld.com.au (australias authorised chihiros dealer) 1am this morning, so it should be here this week.
      Stay tuned for the review. 
    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed.
      It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces,
      So I made this:
       
      The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises.

      A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles.

      The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it.
      Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong.
      I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around.
      The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system.
      I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. 
      My fav part is the diffuser TBH,
      I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers.
      enjoy.
    • CNgo2006
      By CNgo2006
      Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial
      What was used was:
      Aquarium safe silicone or superglue Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp. Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings. They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!

      For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!

      in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save!

      View full article
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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
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