Jump to content
TheKeeper

Co2 in a planted shrimp tank

Recommended Posts

TheKeeper

Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. 

 

Options ive thought of-

1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced

2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 

3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WhySoCRS

You can turn the CO2 off at lights out mate, u don’t need it during the night when there is no lighting period.


Sent from my iPhone using Shrimp Keepers Forum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

@TheKeeper, it is very difficult keeping plants and shrimp together in a high light/high fert tank. It's one or the other. A compromise is needed. 

Since you don't want to spend money to fix the overnight CO2 gassing, then then shrimp has to go.

Alternatively, I question how many plants you can have in a 6gal the needs co2.

What plants do you have?

Can you change them to low light mosses, ferns or subwassertang?

 

 

@WhySoCRS, you can't turn off DIY co2. It keeps producing co2 in the bottle until all the sugar is consumed. If it is blocked to stop the bubbles from coming out, the bottle explodes!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheKeeper

I can stop it by releasing all the pressure in it before bed. meaning it actually wont bubble again for 4-8 hours till the pressure builds up again. Thus delaying the co2 build up. Any suggestions for a cheaper co2 delivery system? Cause im very interested in having the full carpet on the bottom and i love the stunning green co2 provides.

@jayc Also, its very do-able to have both shrimp and a planted tank, I see it done to often.

I currently have S-repens (carpeted), and ill be adding  Pogostemon helferi, mayaca fluviatilis

icon_difficulty_Medium.png
 
 
Edited by TheKeeper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
32 minutes ago, TheKeeper said:

Pogostemon helferi

Love the Pogo. You will have to post some pics. Pleeaassseeeee.

I didn't say it was not doable. It's difficult and requires a lot of attention. As long as you can maintain a tight regime of monitoring water parameters for both shrimp and plants, then it's doable. But alas, I'm lazy and busy. 

 

36 minutes ago, TheKeeper said:

Any suggestions for a cheaper co2 delivery system?

Don't know of a cheap system. You'll need something with a electronic solenoid on a CO2 tank that will shut off at nights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheKeeper

@jayc Thanks for the help and advice, here in a couple of weeks once I get the system up and going and deside on what to do I will definitely post pictures!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WhySoCRS

Yeah I misread this as DIY CO2.


Sent from my iPhone using Shrimp Keepers Forum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
    • Zoidburg
      By Zoidburg
      Short info...

      I'm in USA
      I got these from a pet store
      They were being sold as something they clearly are not
      Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see)
      *NOT* Neocaridina
      *LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks*

      I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...)
       
      Female
       

      Male
       

       
      And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear)

       
       
       
       
      And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
       

    • Brooohm
      By Brooohm
      Hello. I have a rather new aquarium set up. Its 20 litres (5-6 gallons). I cycled it for a couple of weeks, and tested the nitrates (0.05). I then did a 50% water change and bought 10 rcs, and 6 neon tetras. It all went fine, i may have overfed a bit in the beginning, but made sure to do a 20% water change every twice a week, to compliment that. 2 first weeks went fine, but then i noticed a dead shrimp. I pulled it out, did a water change, and didnt give it much thought. About 3-4 days later, and i just found a dead neon. I might suspect i have lost more shrimp, since i couldnt see them all today, but i dont know for sure. I was just wondering, is it normal to lose a couple of fish the first month of a new tank, or should i be worried? The water temperature is around 24C (75 Fahrenheit), and they dont give any signs of struggle.

      Thanks in advance
    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
      Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple. 
      Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a  huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
      Regards
      -The Keeper


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I had bought some blue bolts and blue steel. The blue bolts were bluer (like your first blue bolt photo) and various patterns but the blue steel were a greyer blue (probably why they were called steel) and just the head with white/cream coloured body. I don't know whether that is the 'official' name or distinction but as you say I am sure they all originate from the same. The crystal reds ad blacks are good enough quality that they may even be Pure red line and Pure black line - they were my first unsuccessful attempt at Caridina shrimp. Hope you don't have to wait too long for the chiller? Simon
    • kms
      Actually the ghost one is suppose to be a joke, Blue Bolt or Blue Steel, I don't actually know the different, so I just call them Blue Bolt, they originally from  the same species. I not sure about the Wine Red with the white band, but I have a CRS with red which is so dark, but not sure if it's that one, as 2 of the CRS I saved from being cooked had very dark red. Those Baby black is about a week old photo, they have grown, will just have to see it when it's bigger, they are spread out all around the tank.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Have you seen the red wine with the white head at all? The second photo of blue bolt looks like a blue steel to me? The black and white look more Crystals than Taiwan bee/panda etc, good colour though and a nice variety of patterns? The same with the red ones though the red is better than normal which is usually more orange. Great pics, I can't really say what the 'ghost' is as it is too blurred, it looks like a blue steel, but I wouldn't rely on that based on that photo! Simon
    • kms
      Ghost Blue Bolt   Wine Red King Kong   Blue Bolt   Blue Bolt   Baby black CRS/Black King Kong   Baby black/Black King Kong   CRS   Wine Red King Kong      
    • jayc
      Yes, photos please.
×