Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TheKeeper

Co2 in a planted shrimp tank

Recommended Posts

TheKeeper

Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. 

 

Options ive thought of-

1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced

2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 

3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WhySoCRS

You can turn the CO2 off at lights out mate, u don’t need it during the night when there is no lighting period.


Sent from my iPhone using Shrimp Keepers Forum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

@TheKeeper, it is very difficult keeping plants and shrimp together in a high light/high fert tank. It's one or the other. A compromise is needed. 

Since you don't want to spend money to fix the overnight CO2 gassing, then then shrimp has to go.

Alternatively, I question how many plants you can have in a 6gal the needs co2.

What plants do you have?

Can you change them to low light mosses, ferns or subwassertang?

 

 

@WhySoCRS, you can't turn off DIY co2. It keeps producing co2 in the bottle until all the sugar is consumed. If it is blocked to stop the bubbles from coming out, the bottle explodes!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheKeeper

I can stop it by releasing all the pressure in it before bed. meaning it actually wont bubble again for 4-8 hours till the pressure builds up again. Thus delaying the co2 build up. Any suggestions for a cheaper co2 delivery system? Cause im very interested in having the full carpet on the bottom and i love the stunning green co2 provides.

@jayc Also, its very do-able to have both shrimp and a planted tank, I see it done to often.

I currently have S-repens (carpeted), and ill be adding  Pogostemon helferi, mayaca fluviatilis

icon_difficulty_Medium.png
 
 
Edited by TheKeeper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
32 minutes ago, TheKeeper said:

Pogostemon helferi

Love the Pogo. You will have to post some pics. Pleeaassseeeee.

I didn't say it was not doable. It's difficult and requires a lot of attention. As long as you can maintain a tight regime of monitoring water parameters for both shrimp and plants, then it's doable. But alas, I'm lazy and busy. 

 

36 minutes ago, TheKeeper said:

Any suggestions for a cheaper co2 delivery system?

Don't know of a cheap system. You'll need something with a electronic solenoid on a CO2 tank that will shut off at nights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheKeeper

@jayc Thanks for the help and advice, here in a couple of weeks once I get the system up and going and deside on what to do I will definitely post pictures!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WhySoCRS

Yeah I misread this as DIY CO2.


Sent from my iPhone using Shrimp Keepers Forum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bristlenose

why don't you remove the co2 diffuser at night? and just put it back in the morning. Sure it'll be a slight hassle but its better than gassing your shrimp, there's no need to release all of the pressure from your diy co2 kit. Alternatively you can leave it in and just purchase an air pump($10-$15 for the cheapest ones) and turn it on at night, I believe it'll be very difficult to produce enough co2 from a diy kit to gas your tank as long as their is an air pump running aswell. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
       
      Any input would be appreciated!
       
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • bristlenose
      By bristlenose
      Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in.
      Previous tank parameters:
      Ammonia: 0 
      nitrite: 0 
      nitrates: 20ppm
      Ph: 8
      substrate: sand 
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      I don't know any other parameters.  cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. 
      New tank parameters:
      ammonia: 0
      Nitrite: 0
      Nitrates:30-40ppm 
      co2: 3-4 bps 
      Ph: 6.5
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      substrate: ada aquasoil
      The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
       

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I have a ton of extra Java moss that I got from a lfs near me. I covered all of my driftwood already and made some stainless steal mesh carpets with them. 
      What else should I do with them ? Can I just leave them free floating in my tank ? 
       
      Thanks for any suggestions ! 


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • Crabclaw
      My vote is for Endlers. Mine are the most fascinating (from a fish lovers point of view here) and cute fish in my tank, but I reckon they would be perfect for you, as mine are constantly picking on stuff! They’re the only fish who eat my dreaded snail eggs (on the glass and other surfaces) which I love! Plus you don’t need heaps. Males are small if you just want them for this. And you will be able to get them anywhere.   I have a school of 20 embers in my tank, but I rarely see them hunting in any manner, much less on surfaces.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      In case it helps I have looked up the figures of the 2 tanks with cherry shrimp in them and they are as follows, Main tank     PH7,, GH5, KH2, TDS 225 (mixed water) Betta tank  PH7.5, GH6, KH3, TDS 222 (tap water + mineraliser) They are fairly similar to each other but neither is really in the 'IDEAL' recommendation range of CHERRY shrimp ,so it confirms that cherry shrimp are more adaptable and can thrive even outside those 'IDEAL' parameters? I suppose neither are that far out but it just shows there is a bit less necessity to get everything 100%, though if you aim for perfect you will probably get better results all round? Simon
    • jayc
      Oh, if you are planning on keeping Cherry shrimp aim for 6-8GH as Simon said above.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Do you know what the water parameters are of this tank? Is the new male old enough to breed, assume it is as they only need to be 3 months I think but is that a possibility? Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      The usual GH range for Cherry shrimp is 6-8 and with the 1 part tap, 3 parts RO water mix you will be 50% there for G|H and just under 4 for KH! There are 2 products, one is GH+ and one is GH/KH+ so you need to get the right one for whichever route you plan to go, all RO water would be GH/KH+, mixed water would be GH+! IF you are planning the mixed route then that would be an easy adjustment you can do now by taking 25% water out and replacing with dechlorinated tap water, then adjust with the GH+ when you get it? This is the one I use, it is so simple as it is a liquid and even calculating is easy as each drop = +1gh (about 20ish TDS) / litre: https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/shrimp-king/803-shrimp-king-mineral-fluid-double-gh-4001615061413.html If you want to get this I have just done a dummy test on the website and you get delivery on it as long as it is one item, which is normal, but I thought you may need to pay as it is a bulky item to send? The soil should have lots of what the plants need I would have thought and the poop from the snails/shrimp must be some fertiliser? As JayC says you could leave the CO2 running for now as there are no shrimps, but I would probably turn it off and stop using fertiliser and just keep a close eye on the plants at this stage, after all you can start using them again IF the plants start looking unhealthy, but neither may be needed and it is better to know from the start and will make life easier long term. As I say I have never used either and my plants grow fantastic, in fact I wish they would grow slower, doh! Simon
×
×
  • Create New...