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Disciple

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Disciple

Hi SKFer's,

 

I finally got approval for my next shrimp tank (currently a divided 4 footer trying to push it to a 5 footer). So I thought I would keep track of the creation of the tank here from design to the finish product with the shrimp I end up with.

 

See below my design and first set of drawings.

 

Tank Design.pdf

 

Since it is my first real design for a tank with a sump. Please feel free to critique. I would like to as many idea's from the ppl here as possible before I get it built.

 

Cheers,

Baz

 

Edited by Disciple

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Squiggle

Looks pretty good dude, just a couple of questions though, is there any reason you've done the inflow & outflow through the bottom? I recommend drilling through the back. Also, you've got the last divider in the sump the wrong way round, you've got it flowing down into the last section when it should be flowing up from the bottom, this way the all the water will flow through the media section & not just across the top with the way you have it now. Have a look at the DIY thread I've done on building a sump & you will see what I mean. :rock:

http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/index.php/topic/5813-fixing-a-3ft-tank-making-it-a-sump-filter/

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Disciple

Thanks a lot for the feed back Squiggs!

 

I must admit I did not look at the DIY thread that you did. I will study it tonight. I wasnt 100% sure how the sump would work I was hoping the place I will end up getting the set up from would be able to give me some advice on it.

 

AHHH Ok I get it so if I took the 4 piece of glass out of my sump drawing that would would make the water go through all the bio media I have in that section and then the water would flow out from the top into the last section! Thanks I didnt see that I should have drawn a water flow lines so I could understand it.

 

As for your question about the inflow and outflow coming from the bottom. Main reason is my wife hated the idea of seeing the pipes coming from the back. Second reason the place I am putting the set up I have only about a 2 foot width that I can work with and I wanted the tank to 2 foot wide haha, so I thought it wouldnt be a problem going through the bottom. If there is more risk with drilling from the bottom then I will end up something like option 2 in my drawings but instead having the water into the back section I will have all the inflow and outflow come up from there and just paint it black so the wife doesnt see the pipes.

 

I will up date the drawings and put the order in after Christmas and hopefully its be ready for pick up at the end of January or mid Feb. I am hoping to pick up some nice goodies while I am in Singapore so I can get the water parameters perfect for TB's and once its cycled start sourcing some nice shrimp.

 

Actually I have managed to convince my wife that there wont be much difference between 4 foot and a 5 foot but it cost me hahaha. So now it'll be a 5 footer divided into a 4 :D.

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Shrimpy Daddy

Hi Disciple,

 

Using a single hole outlet instead of the spray bar, will give you a better water flow. If you connect a enlarging straight joint (for e.g. 1" to 2") to the outlet pipe, you will be able to achieve higher flow rate but slow water speed. Shrimp prefer slow water speed. High flow rate will ensure more and faster water turn over.

 

For the overflow hole (which is an internal pipe for your design), make sure it allows you to cover it with coarse sponge and can be remove for washing easily. Or else, half of your shrimp population will migrate to your sump. :D

 

Just a thought on the size and shape of the tank. Is there any possibility to design them to be multiple cube tank? Having a long depth tank is quite weird. I have friends who build tank rack using 3 x standard 60cm tank in a row, and placed them with the side facing the front. When I look through the tank, the feeling is very weird.

 

Most of my tanks are using sump tank. However, they are all off-the-shelf saltwater sump tank but modified for shrimp tank. Here is a picture of my sump design:

 

DSCF5457-FIXED.jpg

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Shrimpy Daddy

Oh... Forgot to mention this.

 

Since you are using sump tank, you could consider to use Auto top-off system (it makes your life much easier and you could go holiday without worries). If you are using ATO, you may want to segregate your sump tank to allow some space for a reservoir to store the top-off water.

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Disciple

Hi Disciple,

 

Using a single hole outlet instead of the spray bar, will give you a better water flow. If you connect a enlarging straight joint (for e.g. 1" to 2") to the outlet pipe, you will be able to achieve higher flow rate but slow water speed. Shrimp prefer slow water speed. High flow rate will ensure more and faster water turn over.

 

For the overflow hole (which is an internal pipe for your design), make sure it allows you to cover it with coarse sponge and can be remove for washing easily. Or else, half of your shrimp population will migrate to your sump. :D

 

Just a thought on the size and shape of the tank. Is there any possibility to design them to be multiple cube tank? Having a long depth tank is quite weird. I have friends who build tank rack using 3 x standard 60cm tank in a row, and placed them with the side facing the front. When I look through the tank, the feeling is very weird.

 

Most of my tanks are using sump tank. However, they are all off-the-shelf saltwater sump tank but modified for shrimp tank. Here is a picture of my sump design:

 

DSCF5457-FIXED.jpg

 

 

Oh... Forgot to mention this.

 

Since you are using sump tank, you could consider to use Auto top-off system (it makes your life much easier and you could go holiday without worries). If you are using ATO, you may want to segregate your sump tank to allow some space for a reservoir to store the top-off water.

Thank you for your input Shrimp Daddy,

 

I really like your advise for the enlarging straight joint for my outlet. High flow and slow water speed was my aim. What I planned to do having a "T" for the tops of the dividers and aiming the spray  bar for the corner of the "T" lol but I was worried it would cause too much splashing. Your suggestion for the outlet sounds 1000 times better!

 

The main reason I decided to go with the dimensions I did are for the following reasons. I read somewhere that it is better to have a larger "floor area" then height. The area I have to play with is roughly 6 foot by 2 foot. Due to the wife "restriction" I have a 5 foot tank haha. So I decide to make the biggest tank that I am allowed (I would have loved to make it a two tier rack but that Idea was rejected LOL). The only variable I can play with is the height of the tank. I decided with 14" because I plan to have 2" of substrate and from what i have read 12" is plenty of height for shrimp but I was thinking of increasing the height to 18". I would actually love to have multiple 2 foot square tanks but I can only get one tank for now haha so I want to maximize it. This way I also maximize the water volume so I can keep the WP as stable as possible.

 

As you suggest I would have had a course sponge covering my overflow hole in the second option but from Squiggles suggestion I am thinking will use the area that would have been the over flow as a "cover for the piping to come up the back. This way I can drill through the back and hide the plumbing.

 

I also have plans for an auto top up system. I am planning to get some plumbing done so I can have a RO unit filling up the auto top up and having a drain installed so I can drain water changes easily too.

 

I would love a side view of your sump it seems quite compact and very neat.

 

Sorry for the wall of text but I feel if I answer your questions with as much information I can it will help give me better feedback. Thanks again for your suggestions! :D

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Shrimpy Daddy

You are welcome and thanks for writing me such a detail reply. :D

 

The bigger floor area theory is assuming the shrimp will pick on the substrate. What I had been observing is that it works better to have more space for microbial and zooplankton to hide; this is the reason why some strong shrimp will dig deeply into the substrate. Hence, it is not necessary to have large surface area. I did aquascaping for all my tanks. Surprising, they love to pick on porous rocks and driftwood more than on the substrate, except when I am feeding them powder food. If space is a constraint for you, then there is nothing much you can do. ;)

 

Are you planning to have those shrimp only tank with just substrate and a few mosses? If yes, you may want to hear my recent experience. Recently I setup a tank that has a little aquascaping but it is kind of "open concept". My shrimps hate it. It is like there is no place that they can rest and feel safe. End up, all of them will go to some corner of the tank to rest or sometime hide under the shade of the water outlet. As such, I am concluding tank that is too open is not conducive to shrimp. End up, I think I will tear it down and redesign the scape. Below is the tank design they hated very much:

DSCF3406-FIXED.jpg

 

I have this problem of treating my shrimps like my pet, such as dog or cat. Hence, I will try to give them the best life. As such, I may be overly pampering them when compared to other people. LOL!!!

 

Regarding the overflow, I forgot to mention something. Are you placing this tank is living room or somewhere noise is a concern? Overflow can get pretty noisy. One way to reduce the noise is to add a ball-valve to the overflow. Add it where it will be parallel to the water level. Leverage on the ball-valve to control the flow rate such that the water level reaches about half of the hole. In this way, you will be able to cut away 90% of the noise. By the way, be it the overflow is from bottom or from the back, you will still need removable coarse sponge to cover the hole. Last time I only cover my overflow with mesh. End up, I get like 50 babies/teenage shrimps in my filter sock every week. LOL!!!

 

For the outlet, make sure it is facing away from the overflow. In this way, the water will circulate nicely from the top and down then back to the overflow. In addition, you need to make it moveable such that you can adjust the up and down angle freely. This will help you to adjust the angle of the water stream so that it achieve the maximum water surface agitation. With slow water speed, the water surface agitation is not meant for aerating the water (you need to add air-pump & air-stone in the sump), it is more for removing bio film. Usually with overflow, it will skim the biofilm. However for shrimp tank case, we need to cover the overflow with something (I suggested coarse sponge) to prevent shrimp swimming into the overflow. Once the overflow has less than 2cm width, the biofilm will not be able to be skimmed. 

 

Sounds good on your ATO plan. Just make sure you get a reliable solenoid. ;)

 

Here is a picture of the front-side view of the sump tank but I think can't see much (Ignore the activated carbon. I usually use activated carbon during cycling):

DSCF3129.JPG

 

Here is a picture of the sump without water:

DSCF3128.JPG

 

By the way, how tall is your cabinet? If it is very tall, you can consider building a trickle filter. Basically, you will have 2 levels of sump tank (totally segregated). First level is the trickle filter and the second level is the consolidation/reservoir sump tank. The good thing for trickle filter is that all the filter media are not submerged, thus less waste material will be dissolved into the water. In addition, it helps to aerate the water too.

 

 

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Disciple

Again I can not thank you enough for the feedback you are providing, I am very grateful. I feel privileged that you are giving me so many ideas to use in my next set up.

 

Yes I do intend to have a shrimp only tank but I dont want it full "open concept tank". I love my shrimp and I see them as pets. My aim is also to give them the best life and living conditions as I can. It is also hard for me to cull my shrimp haha. I have currently given the culls to my brother but he doesnt want any more haha. I hope to give SKF beginners my culls in the future.

 

My current set up is a iwagumi style tank which I thought was fine but now realise it may be good for cherries but not so good for the TB's. It has not been a total waste as I have learnt a lot and from my observations it seems the shrimp enjoy all the plants and rock as you have mentioned. The main issue i am having is keeping the PH down, I believe the stones I bought slowly raises the PH.

post-1014-0-46131300-1419148038_thumb.jp This is my current tank. Excuse the cloudy water I believe I am having a issue with a bacterial bloom which is slowly clearing up.

 

In my next set up I have decided in each division I will have is going to be roughly 30-40% heavy planted like my current tank but the remaining area will be "open concept" but I will still have drift wood with moss. I am currently frustrated with my current set up because it is very difficult to see my shrimp haha so I want a open area so i can see them a little easier but still have plants as I believe having a heavy planted area will help with shrimplet survival rates.

 

post-1014-0-83113600-1419149447_thumb.pn This is a basic layout of each division.

 

post-1014-0-91992700-1419149499_thumb.jp This is what I have come up with as my Moss wall. Again sorry for the cloudy water and picture quality (using a iphone).

 

Thank you for all the additional advise and showing me pictures of your sump. I think I will need to show the guys at the aquarium shop and see if they understand it better. Hopefully they can help set something similar up.

 

The cabinet I have chosen is roughly 70cm high. So I will do some more research about Trickle filters and see if I can set one up instead.

 

The aim for the new set up is to be able to keep nice big colonies of my favourite shrimp. The 4 divisions will be home to BB's, nice quality CRS or PRL, KingKongs and Wine Reds. I like the though of keeping pure strains but I will see what I am able to get. I will be visiting Aquarist chamber when I am on my holidays and hopefully get products that will get the setup started the right way.

 

Offtopic we were planning to fly to HongKong too for a few days. I wanted to take my kids to disney world but we are a bit hesitant because of the protests that have happened recently. I noticed your location is Hong Kong and was wondering want the atmosphere is like currently and whether or not you think it would be better to wait for a better time? Thanks for your time.

Edited by Disciple

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Shrimpy Daddy

If you want a tank that is easy to cull but yet provide shrimp to hide and walk around, you may want to consider my approach for non-CO2-injected tank. My approach is have a lot of big rocks with 20% slow growing plant that does not attract gunk (usually I use bucephalandra and anubias). In this way, you can see all shrimps from top-view but yet they have a lot of places to walk and hide. Below are pictures of two of my such tanks:

 

DSCF5288-FIXED.jpg

 

 

DSCF2663.JPG

 

Not sure you could find petrified wood (fossilised wood) in AU. If you can, there are some highly porous petrified wood that shrimp loves them. The rocks in my first picture is one of them; it is a type of partial petrified wood.

 

For the bacteria bloom, it should be too much organics. Put in some Purigen and it will clear it for you.

 

70cm height cabinet is too low to have double layer. Hence, trickle filter will be out for you.

 

You don't necessarily need to follow my sump design. My sump design will require addition pump for pumping water to the filter compartment. Most people will design the overflow pipe going to the filtration compartment. I prefer mine is because I am able to have higher speed of water going to the filtration chamber and configure the return pump to pump slower water. No good or bad with both design. Just that I am a person who like to fine tune every component, which is why I opted for that design. ;)

 

Regarding the shrimp type you intended to keep, I will suggest keeping the BB with KK, instead of KK or WR. BB breed with KK will give you shadow KK or BB with black colour (similar to hinomaru/mosura KK). If you keep KK with WR, you will end up with the lowest denominator, which is brown-based shrimp.

 

The protest is gone. Actually, it is not as bad as what being broadcast on the news. News always blow things up to zest up the news. :( However, I will not suggest you to go to the HK Disneyland for the following two reasons:

  • It is very small and lame. If you been to Disneyland in other country, you will be utterly disappointed.
  • During holiday season (now till Lunar New Year), there will be a lot of mainlander tourist. These people do not have the culture to queue up. Hence, they will spoil your holiday mood.
Edited by Shrimpy Daddy
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Disciple

Nah I intend to keep the BB, KK, WR and PRL all in seperate sections :D.

 

Ok thanks for the heads up. I'll try talk my wife into going to Thailand instead.

 

Thank you for sharing your nicely scaped tanks. They look wonderful.

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Shrimpy Daddy

LOL!!! OK. I thought your new tank only has 3 compartments?

 

Ever thought of doing the Asian/Japanese approach on racks? (Sorry, I have many ideas. :p) Usually we will use 45cm or 60cm cube tank that are placed side by side. Instead of an aquarium cabinet, we usually custom cabinet (we get furniture builder to build it). Hence, the cabinet looks like a normal home cabinet that stretches an entire wall. In this way, you can just add more cube tank when needed. As for the sump, it could be a centralised one or a few shared by different tanks. Not sure my description is clear enough though. LOL!!!

 

Thailand sounds better, especially if you like spicy food and spa. Only problem with Thailand is that Qantas does not have much flight that has good timing for to and fro. End up sometime have to catch red-eye.

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Disciple

Yeah I got approval from the "minister of finance" to get a 5 foot instead of the 4 foot in my initial drawings haha. So with the 5 footer I will split it into 4 divisions. I should have mentioned that earlier haha. If it was 3 divisions I would get WR, PRL/CRS and BB.

 

Yes initially my plan was to find a cabinet maker to build a nice cabinet/home office/desk. In this design I wanted to incorporate a two tiered rack with 2 x 60cm cubes for each rack haha. But the above mentioned "MOF" said I can only add one more tank to add to my first one. So to get around this limitation I drew up this design with divisons haha It is still one tank but gives me the division I need to keeper different types of shrimp hahaha.

 

We have a saying "Happy Wife, Happy Life" or the other saying is "I am whipped" lol.

 

Actually we will be going to Singapore first from Australia to visit the in laws. From there we will decide the next destination :D. For my holiday I would like a beach resort with a nice spa. For my other half she would like the nice modern city to Shop.

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Shrimpy Daddy

"We have a saying "Happy Wife, Happy Life"" <--- We say that too. LOL!!! Lucky for me, I'm a DINK. Hence, financially are managed separately. This is why I am able to spend so much on equipment for testing and researches; never sell a single shrimp before (they are my pet), thus all funds came from my own pocket. If she ever know how much I had spent, she probably will kill me.

 

"For my holiday I would like a beach resort with a nice spa. For my other half she would like the nice modern city to Shop." <--- Here is my suggestion. Fly to BKK, stay a few days for your MoF to shop. After that fly to Koh Samui and stay at the W Hotel. You guys will be able to enjoy the spa and relaxation more after the crazy shopping in the bustling city. ;)

Edited by Shrimpy Daddy

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Disciple

Thanks for the Holiday suggestion I will do a little research on Koh Samui for sure.

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Shrimpy Daddy

You are welcome. ;)

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Disciple

Just wanted to do a little update. After my holiday and a few discussion with couple of shrimp breeders I have made some changes to my tank design. I have actual also gone down to the lfs to get it made.

post-1014-0-70945900-1421583466_thumb.jp

Back to a 4 foot length and divided into 3 sections. Instead of hooking it all up to a sump I will be using a combination on sponge, under gravel and a canister filters to filter the tank. To achieve this with out the need of multiple canister filters and chillers the partitions have the centre area cut out and covered in very fine mesh to allow the water flow between partitions.

I have had second thoughts about the UGF because a post made by shrimpy daddy that mentions UGF causing lots of problems but I have bought all the equipment for it and I hope the way I been told to set it up will combat any issues, so I will see how it goes.

Hopefully my next update will be when I have the tank and start setting it up. As always please feel free to provide your thought and feed back. Thanks.

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Shrimpy Daddy

Let me make a guess.... You are convinced by Alvin to use UGF?

 

If you change your substrate and UGF every 6 to 8 months and keep your tank meticulously clean and balance, then will be no problem. Or else, you may find that baby survival is no good, sudden mass death, algae bloom and/ or lost of colour. Wish you good luck. ;)

 

What substrate will you be coupling with the UGF?

 

By the way, what is the T-section in each compartment does?

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Disciple

Actually Alvin advised me to use the canister and sponge filters.

 

It was another breeder that I met that ended up convincing me. He swears by it and he convinced me to try but then i read you post that its not good. Also he told me to use ADA amazonia which is the one you said would be the worst to use argh! But saying that I noticed this seems to be the a lot of the Singaporean shrimp keepers set up their tanks.

 

The T-section in each compartment will be used for my feeding area. It will be left bare so any uneaten for can be easily taken out.

:phew:

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Shrimpy Daddy

I see. Alvin used to preach about UGF because of Lowkeys recommends it. But I know since day one when he was still a neutral standalone breeder, he is very afraid of it being clogged .

 

Bare bottom? Oh no.... no..... The Taiwanese style poison had spread to SG too? No.... .... ....

 

Sigh... I will let you decide on the design and shall not comment anymore. If not, I will make you panic and unhappy with your purchase. :x

 

But before I shut up. LOL!! Do you know ADA AS is not UGF compatible?

 

Wish you good luck. ;)

Edited by Shrimpy Daddy

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Disciple

I see. Alvin used to preach about UGF because of Lowkeys recommends it. But I know since day one when he was still a neutral standalone breeder, he is very afraid of it being clogged .

 

Bare bottom? Oh no.... no..... The Taiwanese style poison had spread to SG too? No.... .... ....

 

Sigh... I will let you decide on the design and shall not comment anymore. If not, I will make you panic and unhappy with your purchase. :x

 

But before I shut up. LOL!! Do you know ADA AS is not UGF compatible?

 

Wish you good luck. ;)

 

Its ok this is the reason I am posting my ideas up as I go. I like to get as much information as possible as I got. It will not be a issue to make changes if I have too. Worse comes to worse I can leave the UGF out and just use the cannister filters and sponge filters.

 

The only part of the tank that will be bare bottom will be the little feeding area at the front. There will be soil in the rest of the tank.

 

I had no idea that the UGF and ada soil is not compatible. The person I spoke to said that this is the set up he has used for 6 years without any problems lol.

 

If it is ok I would like to pm about a few things regarding another topic I want to get your opinion on.

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Shrimpy Daddy

You need to feed microbes in substrate. They are the key food source for shrimp, not unsightly algae or shrimp food that most Taiwanese Breeder thought. Hence, feeding in glass bowl or bare glass bottom is a wrong practice (pardon my bluntness).

 

" The person I spoke to said that this is the set up he has used for 6 years without any problems lol." <--- ADA AS will drop crumbs over time. Hence, it will be clogged easily. Are you running a powerhead or canister filter to suck the UGF and going through a pre-filter first? If not, then yes you will have problem. No worries. I will leave you believe in that guy. I will keep mum. :x

 

Sure. Please feel free to PM me. ;)

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Disciple

I am happy for the feed back. You can be as blunt as you would like. I do not get offended easily I am actually quite honored that you are willing to explain all these things to me. I believe this way I can make the best decision for myself.

 

The UGF will be run using an airstone.

 

I am here to learn as I am only a beginner myself. Thank you for the advise, I appreciate it.

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Shrimpy Daddy

I replied your PM and I did gave you some recommendation on using UGF. Let's continue our discussion in the PM before I may upset others. :p

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buck

don’t make this a secrete squirrel chat! :paranoid:

I’m in the planning stages of a new rack aswell and I love hearing all the ideas, although the contradicting ideas is a head f :zombie:

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linus84

Damn shrimp secret service. Ill be glad to learn a bit more about the setup for a nice clean and funcional talk. Share ur cards xD

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      1-Gallon Tank
      Started with a one gallon vivarium style container from Michael's Originally planned on it being a no-tech tank, but decided I would be happier with some water movement and filtration. I designed a custom water pump sponge filter. Used Eco-Complete for Substrate Using Malasian driftwood for hardscape. Sticking to fewer plants for this build to stay more organized. Monte carlo planted in substrate for carpet, and a monte carlo mat to cover up the filter. A little bush of s. repens. A small bit of anubias nana. Would like to add a floating plant, but havent been able to source any. Once cycled, I will be adding shrimp. Planning on 5 RCS or orange rili to start. Cycling this tank has been much harder so far. We added some Safestart+, but have not seen any real progress yet. I am keeping two small nerite snails in here to create the ammonia, feeding them since algae hasn't established. This tank will be much more of a custom project for us. I designed and built a 1"x2"x3" large water pump sponge filter to help the water stay a little more clear and give the bacteria some flow to process the ammonia. For the lid, we are also going completely custom, designing an acrylic and wood lid with built in lighting and containment for floating plants. We have a laser cutter and CNC so it is fun to have the lid be a separate design project. My goal with the lights is to have too much light available, and the ability to dim. That way we can grow the plants but turn down to reduce algae problems as needed. This tank will eventually go on my desk at work. Since it is a pretty professional environment, it is important that this tank isn't noisy or technical looking, and is attractive for client meetings in my office. There is a rather small available footprint which is why we went with the 1-gallon, even though it will be more challenging. So far, it looks like we are getting a little nitrite, but its slow going. Doing daily water changes and dosing Prime so we don't kill off the snails.
      Here is the custom filter. The sponge media goes in the acrylic cage, and water is pushed out the grated hole. It fits neatly behind the driftwood and is not visible except from directly in the back. The top is covered in a monte carlo mat to hide it better.


      Here it is set-up and slowly cycling. We are temporarily using a CFL hood for the light to keep the plants going well. It also raises the water temperature to about 75F, not very high for establishing bacteria.


       
      I already received some good advice from @jayc regarding how the temperature needed for Zebra Danios is lower than the recommended temperature to get bacteria growing quickly. I am hopeful that with some patience and careful monitoring, the danios will stay healthy and the bacteria will get going. I have read many articles about fish/fishless cycling and do not plan to change to fishless for this build.
      Any comments or advice appreciated. We are taking it slow, but are getting excited for cycling to complete so we can start adding shrimp.
    • Finley2
      By Finley2
      I have been using UP Aqua Shrimp Sand 1mm size for years with great success. Perfect product for me. However...
      I recently bought some from Tech Den (Australia). It was a larger size, about 2-3mm, and looked a little different.  It came in a vacuum-packed bag, instead of loose in a regular bag.  I figured it's just the larger size that I have heard about, but that it would be basically the same.  Not!  Within 90 days most of it has disintegrated to dust.  Stirring up the substrate produces dense, heavy clouds of 'smoke' - the disintegrated material. It's a disaster.
      Also the water chemistry is not quite the same. OK, but not perfect like before.
      Has anyone else experienced a change in this product, or know whether there is a fake version around?  
      Do any Australians here know where to buy the good 1mm UP Aqua Shrimp Sand, in the ordinary (non-vacuum) bag?
      Thanks.
    • Ishtarduzzie
      By Ishtarduzzie
      Hello SKF readers!
      To save me starting multiple threads and also so I know here to find answers I am doing a journal/question thread.

      If I put this in the wrong spot JayC/mods then feel free to move it or tell me to re-make :D
      Sorry.... this WILL be long probably and I appreciate any time you take to read and answer my questions!
       
      So, on Thursday (edit: tomorrow now according to an email from AU Post) I have a package coming from The Tech Den with a Aquael Shrimp Set Smart 30 and a few other goodies.
      My plans so far are:
               Iron sand (found posts saying shrimp when ok with it).... May need more than the 2kg I initially got...?          An amazing piece of Gold Vine that I found at my local pet store          The light and filter (modified) from the kit with the heater only being used in winter if needed          Filtered water (RO maybe? It is a 2 canister counter top carbon and sediment drinking water filter gifted by my mum a few months ago. Unsure brand etc) with JayC’s DIY remineraliser              IAL and alder cones         Some ceramic hidey holes         API GH/KH and Master kits         TSD pen - Xiaomi Professional TDS Meter from eBay Still need:
                 TDS pen as I forget to check the pet store and Tech Den were out – Recommendations?           Plants           Shrimp – Would like blue dreams and maybe glass shrimp           Fish – Big IF! I am worried about eating all the baby shrimp. Spotted rasbora since they are sooo tiny if any. So, according to the local store the light from the kit is pretty good and I have seen quite a few good things about the filter around YT and such. I was thinking of modifying it like this with a single though: https://youtu.be/I_ckQpO8GBo
      My old 16L (does not fit in spot and wary of using for fish since it housed mice) has been a bit of a dummy test on water temps and for the last week has been in a safe range. None of these have been 40+ days though so I will probably need to air-con or get a cooler for coming into next summer.... or something (nowhere near planned this part since should be cooling off by time cycled).
      So... to break up some questions that relate to the ‘still need’ list:
      -          I was thinking plant wise Anubias nana petite, Java fern narrow (still need to source somewhere to get... not sure local store has anything other than plain) and.... a moss...
      I was hoping for something less stringy than Java moss. It is just so..... wild lol
      Fissiden sp. ‘Vietnam’ and Mini Pellia are calling to me but are slow growers and needs med-high light and I think Co2... filter has a Co2 option if needed.... but NO clue what a 6w, 8000K LED translates to on a nano tank... and I guess that would depend on other planting...
      Also pondering about Peacock and Phoenix? But probably similar problem....
      Maybe I should just wait for if I get a bigger tank.... for anything other than Java lol *sighs*
      -          Sourcing blue dream shrimp! Your trade section does not seem to get many responses lol
      My local has glass shrimp (Australian... soooo Paratya australiensis?) who looked blue tinged at least, cherry red and cherry yello but no source of cherry blue.
      Would appreciate sources to get from Newcastle or Sydney! Gumtree makes me hesitate though I have found people with them up on there. One seems a safer bet but maybe not as easy to get to. A second one has potential and very easy for me to get to for Newcastle (no car).
      -          Now... going with plants that don’t need a planted substrate.... should I still actually go with an actual buffering/planted substrate for bacterial reasons...? Should I add hidden biomedia sock or anything like that since the bacteria won’t really colonise in a thin layer of sand, unlike a planted tank.
       
      Starting to get into the excited but freaking out I am doing something to mess it up bad stage.
      Blue dreams are more expensive than I was wanting to be learning on... but if I get red cherries that would just mean another tank later lol
    • jc12
      By jc12
      I have been a long time lurker on this forum and have learnt a lot from past and present members who have contributed to this forum. Thank you.
      This is my first 'real' post and I hope this would help anyone who might be considering building a rack themselves. As requested by @Disciple, hope this helps you too.
      Just a bit of background on my experience. My only previous build attempt was for a stand and sump for a 4x2x2. It was my first build dabbling with staining wood and using silicon for sump baffles, etc. As you can see from the photos below, they are pretty amateurish but I am happy for how it turned out as a first attempt. Next step is to fit some doors to it.
      The stand was built following this video by King of DIY. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jN4Y9AYuwcQ
      Anyway, this gives you an idea of the level of experience I have before I embark on my ambitious attempt to build a rack.
      Below are some photos of my 4x2x2, sump and stand build, and some of its inhabitants. Sorry they are not shrimp related and not of great quality taken using my phone.
       
      Stand and sump

       


      Filled up and planted.

       
      Display tank front view.

       
      Display tank side view.

       
      With background in place and tank inhabitants added consisting of altum flora discus, german blue rams, panda corydoras, cardinal tetras, otocinclus, red cherry shrimps, darwin algae shrimps and darwin red nose shrimps.

       
      Altum flora discus.

       
      Panda corydoras.

       
      German blue rams with their fry.

       
      I have browsed many build threads including some from here and have built on my ideas collectively from different sources. The specific post from @BlueBolts here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/1415-breeding-rack-no2/ has inspired me greatly and I would like to acknowledge that.
      I followed the DIY rack build as outlined here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/7063-diy-rack-for-under-50-in-under-2hrs/
       
      The plan, materials, and costs
      This rack will be located in the lounge room so it has to be 'display-ish' quality and light from it must not interfere with the TV or be too blinding to people sitting around the lounge room. Also, no unsightly hoses/pipes are to be seen. I managed to convince the Minister for Home Affairs that a canister filter and chiller by definition, is not categorised as hoses or pipes, and would be in no way unsightly. The LED display from the chiller would provide subtle mood lighting, and the gentle humming of the filter and soft soothe whirling of the chiller fan would be therapeutic for lounge surfers, and would also greatly enhance movie watching experience with enriched sound depth and effects.
      Hence I received approval to have a canister filter and chiller located next to the rack.
      I used 5 x 5.4m long 90x45mm MGP10 untreated structural pine bought and cut to size from Masters for $83.75. I find Masters generally sells timber cheaper than Bunnings. Since I have both of them close to where I live, I selectively buy what I need from where it is cheaper.
      The frame is held together by 10-8 x 75mm zinc plated countersunk screws. I bought a box of 250 screws from Bunnings for $27.50.
      The rack measures 1390 x 420 x 2200 mm (L x W x H). The plan is to hold 2 x 2'x15"x15" tanks on the top and middle tier each, and a 4'x15"x15" hospital/quarantine/grow out/sump tank on the bottom tier.
      Each tank would be insulated by 20mm foam around the sides, back and base as I plan to run both tropical (28-30 degrees C) and chilled (22-24 degrees C) tanks on this rack. Plumbing for air and sump would be hidden within the frame.
       
      Please disregard the mess in the background. Still sorting out stuff in the garage after the move.
      From this:

       
      To this:

    • KillieOrCory
      By KillieOrCory
      Hi all,
      As some of you know, my currently my set-up looks like this.
       
      With enormous amount of help and encouragement from my fiancee, we have now got the fishroom to this state.
      It feels awesome walking in there to play with water :o
      Amazingly for me things have not stop improving here! We are in the process of building a new house and getting a purpose build fishroom in it.
      The construction started just before Christmas last year.
       
      In this fishroom I wanted to have some of the things I wished I had or I had done in my current set-up.
      1st Priority: Insulation
      I wanted to be able to keep the room warm in winter and cool in summer with minimal power consumption. Living in Canberra we get cold winters (nights especially) and a week or two of extreme heat every summer.
      We decided to build the the whole structure; house and fishroom, with a relatively new building material suggested to us by our builder. It is a thermal facade system called 'Exsulite' it is manufactured by Dulux.
      It is a system that uses foam, foil, airgaps and various boards. It provides a lot better thermal protection than regular bricks for example.
       
      Between this system and the gyprock regular insulation batts are fitted. The whole house including the fishroom and the garage has insulation batts on the ceiling as well.
      I also decided against a door that opens to outside and windows to minimize heat loss through these.
      2nd Priority: Access to water
      I wanted to make sure I had all that I needed within the room in terms of access to water as well as getting rid of waste water. I decided to have a 42L laundry tub fitted into the room to provide all important 'cleaning' station. I no longer need to take over the laundry or worse the kitchen during certain maintenance of various fishkeeping related items.
       
      I have also got a separate tap installed next to the laundry tub to have my water reservoir line to be permanently connected to this tap. I won't need to connect and disconnect this line unnecessarily in the future.
      A center drain in the middle of the room was also a must.
       
      3rd Priority: Access to power
      As with almost everybody that is in the aquarium hobby, I always found I needed more power points than what is available around the tank/tanks. This always inevitably leads to using of powerboards, but even with using quality ones there is always potential to overload or something to go wrong.
      As much as possible I wanted to avoid using power boards and double adapters in the fishroom, though I know resistance is futile and I might resort to these at some stage.
      To ensure I have access to power where I needed I decided to get 20 quad power points installed in the room! That is 80 power points!!! I had to show photos of my current set-up to the builder and the electrician when their eyebrows were raised when I requested this. They were wondering why I need this much power? :anonymous:
      I am getting the power points put in two lines; one over the other. One line is going to be connected to a wired timer. These power points are for the lights. The second line is ordinary points for various other equipment.
       
      The electrician have put another box and 3 circuits in this room alone!
      4th Priority: Lighting and ventilation
      As already mentioned, will be lighting all my tanks relatively well by fishroom standards. I do not see the point of having a fishroom where you can't see the inhabitants of the tanks very well.
      Each row of tanks are to have LED lights fitted above them. I have recently been replacing my T8 fluoro units with these.
       
      I am finding this is saving me a lot of energy.
      As I have been known to leave smelly things in the fishroom; like a bucket of blackworms that have died, it was super important for my fiancee that the room can be easily ventilated! This was something I wanted anyway as the room has no windows and no access to outside aerating the room is not possible.
      We are getting a toilet/bathroom style exhaust fan installed in the room.
       
      Its a type of model that has flaps that close when not in operation providing no gap for heat loss.
      The room is getting two ceiling flouro lights as well, for the times I might walk into the room when the tank lights are off.
      That's about the progress so far. We are still couple of months away from completion.


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  • Posts

    • DEL 707
      Not going to lie, this is giving me a headache. Just want a nice planted tank with fish and shrimp. 🤨 At the moment it looks like it have to either pick 1 or the other. Would this be a solution. Use Seachems Equilibrium and KH products to bring my GH and KH up to 4, then use that Shrimp King Mineral Fluid Double, to bring the GH up to 6. That would make sure that there are at least some minerals for the shrimp.
    • Matuva
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    • Crabclaw
      My vote is for Endlers. Mine are the most fascinating (from a fish lovers point of view here) and cute fish in my tank, but I reckon they would be perfect for you, as mine are constantly picking on stuff! They’re the only fish who eat my dreaded snail eggs (on the glass and other surfaces) which I love! Plus you don’t need heaps. Males are small if you just want them for this. And you will be able to get them anywhere.   I have a school of 20 embers in my tank, but I rarely see them hunting in any manner, much less on surfaces.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      In case it helps I have looked up the figures of the 2 tanks with cherry shrimp in them and they are as follows, Main tank     PH7,, GH5, KH2, TDS 225 (mixed water) Betta tank  PH7.5, GH6, KH3, TDS 222 (tap water + mineraliser) They are fairly similar to each other but neither is really in the 'IDEAL' recommendation range of CHERRY shrimp ,so it confirms that cherry shrimp are more adaptable and can thrive even outside those 'IDEAL' parameters? I suppose neither are that far out but it just shows there is a bit less necessity to get everything 100%, though if you aim for perfect you will probably get better results all round? Simon
    • jayc
      Oh, if you are planning on keeping Cherry shrimp aim for 6-8GH as Simon said above.
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