I have now pretty much set up the shrimp tank afresh. The layout isn't 100% yet as I am testing a piece of rock for the week which I will test if it has any affect on Ph at the weekend when it has been in its tub of water for a wee? I set the heater going yesterday and as per JayC have turned it up for the cycle, and the 2 filters are running with sponges from other tanks. Most of the plants/wood are from before in the same tank. I put a small amount of Bacter AE and fish food into the tank as well today.
Parameters today, TDS 213, ammonia 1, nitrite 0, nitrate 25 (these are the only tests I have done as it is just day 1 of running. As I am using RO water remineralised I don't expect I will test GH, KH, Ph at this early point but I can adjust those easy enough later down the line once cycled should they be out of sync, though they shouldn't (in theory), and adjusting the TDS is easy.
I am planning to rinse the betta fish sponges in 4L of used betta water and dumping that in the shrimp tank on friday, tanks are next to each other so that will be soooo easy! That actually shouldn't affect the parameters much anyway? I will then run it as a set up tank and do 2L water change/maintenance each thursday (back to my old shedule) - tank will have about 26L of water in it (more substrate this time so 2 litres less water).
If I am doing anything wrong or have missed/forgotten something I will be pleased to hear from anyone?
Oh! and I will be getting at least a fixed thermometer this time, and will look into the device that JayC and KMS have recommended at some later stage when it is all up and running, though I did take a quick look and haven't seen any in the UK yet. I plan to get a strip thermometer that you stick on and it changes colour to show what the temperature is, as these are inoffensive to look at and I should be able to view them easily/often from where I normally sit and they can be stuck on the side instead of the front (which I see from my normal seat). I don't know how good/accurate they are though but it is only to indicate a problem so I don't have to go through this devastation, mine and the shrimps, again?
Day 2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 25
Day 3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 50 tds 221
Hey guyz, im cycling a 30l tank to get some rcs in it. The tank is almost cycled and im thinking of getting them next week.
I have tested the water and the kH is at 9 and ph is 7 (i have yet to buy a gh test as i bought the jbl pack and didnt realise it does not include gh). I have read about parameter for neo carodina and they say that the hardier the water the better. But i have also read that the water can be too hard which will make it hard for them to molt.
What would you recommend for the parameters ? And how much should i start as a basic colony?
I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys.
I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van.
Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up.
They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius.
I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed.
I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
I'm in USA
I got these from a pet store
They were being sold as something they clearly are not
Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see)
*LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks*
I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...)
And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear)
And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple.
Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!