-
Similar Content
-
By Crabby
Hey guys, just found an add for this website showcasing a cool-lookin native algae eating shrimp.
https://algaeeatingshrimp.com.au/products/australian-algae-eating-shrimp
Anyone heard of these before or own any? My interest was peaked by the claim that they eat hair-type algae, as I have some on my crypts and lace fern that I cannot remove. And for a price of $4 ea, and super easy parameters, they sound pretty doable!
Tell me more oh great SKFians! 😁
(or feel free to point me towards an already existing page)
post-note: have you/do you keep these grubs? Seems like your sort of thing.
-
By @ashrimplab
Green shrimp I looked at one of my green Neocaridina under the microscope, and I'm trying to determine if all green shrimp are like this... or just mine. Any insight from other green or jade shrimp keepers?
-
By Zebra
Hello, just wanted to show another food source I grow for my shrimp and snails.
Algae.
Just how it looks, a plastic tub filled that gets lots of direct sun, I usually fill it with old water from my planted tanks to help the process.
Its a bit full ATM lol but there's a second tub underneath for extra strength.
I just grab a small pinch and put it straight in my shrimp tanks, they all go nuts for it.
Alternatively you could remove excess water then dehydrate it on baking paper to make a dry feed.
An hour or 2 later:
-
By Gino
A Generally accepted method of spot dosing with H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)
We will work with a 30cm cube to make all calculations easier (30L of water) and be using 3% solution of H2O2
Remember you are playing with a chemical that oxidizes when it comes in contact with organic matter, so always use as little as possible as overdoses can damage your invertebrates (shrimp) or nitrifying bacteria causing your tank to cycle again.
MAXIMUM dosage in a 30L body of water is 15ml in a 48 hour period, this will increase total peroxide levels by 15 mg/l, generally this is deemed safe, but always best to work well and truly under this level.
Things you will need:
Half hour of time
Hydrogen Peroxide (3% solution) - easily purchased from your local super market or pharmacy
1x 10ml syringe, these are available relatively cheaply from your pharmacy
Prepare your tools:
Draw up 5ml of your H2O2
If this is the first time you're doing this, before you start the actual dosing process add 2.5ml of tank water as this will give you slightly more ammo to play with without increasing your overall dose.
Prepare your tank:
Turn off all filters and pumps.
This is so you don't have a current in the body of water (should only take 30seconds to settle). also if your dosing near your intake best to avoid getting H2O2 in the filters as it will go bananas on all the good bacteria you have in there.
Plan your attack:
Take a step back look at what your treating and figure out if you have more than one place to dose or if its just localized less time your filters are off the better.
Not an Ideal situation to be fiddling around for an hour with your filtration off
Attack:
Dose sparingly directly above the site you wish to treat, within a second or two you will see it bubbling away. try to avoid sensitive mosses and such if in doubt patch test first.
An example of what the effect is:
Finish up:
Wait a couple of minutes and turn everything back on.
It is generally suggested to do a water change (one third) if you wish to re-dose within 48hrs, but as we are only playing with a third of the maximum dosage you can repeat this the next day if you feel it necessary, or if you have more algae than this dosage allows you to treat.....
Good Luck and if in doubt ask questions on the forum, there is plenty of experienced shrimp keepers that are willing to help out!!!!
View full article
-
By Gino
A Generally accepted method of spot dosing with H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)
We will work with a 30cm cube to make all calculations easier (30L of water) and be using 3% solution of H2O2
Remember you are playing with a chemical that oxidizes when it comes in contact with organic matter, so always use as little as possible as overdoses can damage your invertebrates (shrimp) or nitrifying bacteria causing your tank to cycle again.
MAXIMUM dosage in a 30L body of water is 15ml in a 48 hour period, this will increase total peroxide levels by 15 mg/l, generally this is deemed safe, but always best to work well and truly under this level.
Things you will need:
Half hour of time
Hydrogen Peroxide (3% solution) - easily purchased from your local super market or pharmacy
1x 10ml syringe, these are available relatively cheaply from your pharmacy
Prepare your tools:
Draw up 5ml of your H2O2
If this is the first time you're doing this, before you start the actual dosing process add 2.5ml of tank water as this will give you slightly more ammo to play with without increasing your overall dose.
Prepare your tank:
Turn off all filters and pumps.
This is so you don't have a current in the body of water (should only take 30seconds to settle). also if your dosing near your intake best to avoid getting H2O2 in the filters as it will go bananas on all the good bacteria you have in there.
Plan your attack:
Take a step back look at what your treating and figure out if you have more than one place to dose or if its just localized less time your filters are off the better.
Not an Ideal situation to be fiddling around for an hour with your filtration off
Attack:
Dose sparingly directly above the site you wish to treat, within a second or two you will see it bubbling away. try to avoid sensitive mosses and such if in doubt patch test first.
An example of what the effect is:
Finish up:
Wait a couple of minutes and turn everything back on.
It is generally suggested to do a water change (one third) if you wish to re-dose within 48hrs, but as we are only playing with a third of the maximum dosage you can repeat this the next day if you feel it necessary, or if you have more algae than this dosage allows you to treat.....
Good Luck and if in doubt ask questions on the forum, there is plenty of experienced shrimp keepers that are willing to help out!!!!
-
-
Must Read SKF Articles
-
Posts
-
By abepaniagua · Posted
Thank you for all the help. I believe the issue was a bacteria. Deaths have stopped so far. Shrimps are very active, they keep molting and there's still 1 berried female. I keep doing water changes until it cycles, and half the tank doesn't have the fuzzy white thing anymore. The other part does still. -
By Crystal Jade · Posted
I haven't been able to find an ammonia test kit so maybe that was my problem but I woke up to no dead shrimp. Before I do a water change I want to make sure my water I have is correct with water parameters and GH and KH especially. I did cycle my tank and it should be fully cycled by now. Thank you all! -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
Sorry to hear you lost some shrimps! How big is your tank and how long has it been running? Did you do the 'cycle'? When doing a water change you should drip the new water into the tank. That will illiminate the temperature difference problem and any difference in parameters between the two waters. When acclimating new shrimps you should drip acclimate them as long as you can, the longer you do that the better chance they have of survival. You will need to match the water temperature to that of the tank by floating the container with the shrimp in the tank once you have stopped dripping, before adding the shrimp to the tank! The parameters you have I would think are acceptable so I would stick with tap water if that is what you are using, for now. RO water is ideal but you will then need to buy GH/KH+ to add the minerals. As I say, I would hold off using RO/distilled water for now until we can pin point the problem. If your water has a green tint to it that may be an algae bloom? A white tint is usually a bacteria bloom and I have only seen that whilst a tank is 'cycling'. I think an algae bloom will mean there is less oxygen in the water as the algae absorbs it?????? Overfeedinng is very common. It will depend upon the size of the tank and how long it has been running etc. With only a few shrimp there may actually be no need to feed additional to the natural biofilm of the tank. As shrimps are feeding all day on biofilm it is usually better to see additional food as just a treat and feed very sparingly. Overfeeding with shrimps doesn't usually mean that the shrimps over eat, it usually means too much uneaten food polutes the water and if you have green tinted water, algae bloom, that may be why? There usually comes a time, if you are lucky, that there are too many shrimps in the tank for the biofilm to sustain on its own, so as the population grows feeding may become more necessary. Shrimp don't usually hide unless they are new to the tank or there are fish etc (even then they will usually adapt to them) or as JayC says, their is something wrong with the water quality? Simon -
By Crabby · Posted
Sorry... this was meant to be partially sarcastic. I mean it's a bit sad but I don't really mind all too much. Yeah they're like that, with those big mouths. -
By jayc · Posted
Rather than using "time" as a guide we should use the water parameters as the reference of when the shrimp/fish has had enough acclimation. Now that you have (or will have) a TDS pen, you just need to measure the TDS of your tank and the water the shrimp came in. Lets say your tank TDS = 150. And the water the shrimp came in = 200. So you start dripping water into the bag the shrimp came in. You keep dripping until TDS is close to 150 (TDS of your tank water). Say 155 TDS should be ok. This take as long as it needs to reach close to 150TDS. It could be 1 hour. It could take 12 hours. This is why I will hesitate telling someone that 1-2 hour drip acclimation is enough. It all depends on the start water parameters and how fast the drip is going. Anyway, good luck, and I hope you sort the issue out without too many more deaths.
-