Jump to content

Breeding Rack No.2


BlueBolts

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately, I'm not great with patience.....have over 100+ shrimp there.... Keeping a close eye, but confident all will be ok...mature filter and 5-10% water chnage every 2-3 days with salty shrimp...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BB how do you maintain such patience and persistence for your projects? Over coming unforeseen setbacks and such?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BB how do you maintain such patience and persistence for your projects? Over coming unforeseen setbacks and such?

Fortunately with my work/schedule, it allows me to watch over my tanks with an eagle eye... the design of the racks/system, and the setup is critical, I over plan and ensure I invest my $ on them....PLUS with Oli as my GOTO person on design and construct, and Dean as my GOTO person on care and maintenance, I'm in perfect hands !:encouragement:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice rack :encouragement:!!

(Normally' date= this is where I would get the dirty looks from the ladies)

It ONLY has to work 1/100 ! :redface-new:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an update......tanks been running for 20 days, and no reported deaths/issues.

PH - 6.4

Temp - 23

KH - 1

GH - 5

TDS - 200

Nitrates - 5ppm

post-1377-13990984827_thumb.jpgpost-1377-139909848265_thumb.jpg

Frogbits doing a great job on the absorption (already removed 50% of the frogbits last week), with over 100+ shrimps, so quickly into the system, they were my insurance......Just patiently waiting for my denitrator to be established now.

May plan for a minor re-scape on the moss & driftwood, and reduce it's mass......BUT overall, I have several berried females, and 2-3 batches of shrimp lets already, as I transfered berried females into the system 1-2 weeks ago.....

post-24-139909847658_thumb.jpg

post-24-139909847663_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your progress is great BB, can see you getting some great shrimp out of this system.

Are you providing your denitrator with a carbon source? If so, what are you using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your progress is great BB' date=' can see you getting some great shrimp out of this system.

Are you providing your denitrator with a carbon source? If so, what are you using?[/quote']

The denitrator comes with the cellulose balls (white balls), and/or can be powder/tablet fed.

Sajica, can you elaborate on this.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where would one buy a denitrator from? Never seen one before and I'm looking at sourcing the best stuff for my breeding rack I'd like to build this year

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ziek, I did heaps of research and on advise via one of our forum sponsor Aquotix, got it from them......I think the denitrator is one of the only contraption that actually reduces nitrates....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate found it on their website, will definitely be getting one of them for my setup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the Aquamedic 400 which does up to a 400 lt setup...both my breeding tanks are 300 lt & 225 lt. Once seeded, the denitrators can produce 0 ppm.....My 300 lt tank which has been running for 3-4 months is under 5ppm ATM. :-)

Usually takes up to 8-10 weeks for it to be fully seeded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a mV probe running to help calibrate them? You still do water changes as well, riight?

I think it's a great little unit for increasing stability on the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm "pro" electronic devices, but my breeding racks don't have any probes/auto devices, only on my nano's, as it's much more of a sensitive environment.

Yes, I still do water changes....

The denitrator is really a great insurance policy, as nitrates can often jump up to dangerous levels, and are often ONLY detected when it's kinda too late.....keeping exotic shrimps, 1 death = 1 denitrator unit...so the maths is definitely there to invest in one.....not a necessity though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So many questions and things to answer.

The anaerobic bacteria consume the white (deniballs) as a source of energy, there's also powders and tablets you can use to speed up the process and for the bacteria to consume as a food source.

Of all the units we've sold no one has yet bought a probe and meter. We've had a few enquires but they are not necessary to setup, run or maintain the units. No doubt they are handy though. Once setup and established they can reduce Nitrate levels to zero or near zero in heavily stocked aquariums. We still recommend customers do partial waterchanges to help replenish lost minerals and maintain good water quality.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So many questions and things to answer.

The anaerobic bacteria consume the white (deniballs) as a source of energy' date=' there's also powders and tablets you can use to speed up the process and for the bacteria to consume as a food source.[/quote']

Presume the tablet/powder is a constant maintenance (weekly/fortnightly injections), whereas the deniballs are there until consumed (12+ month) ? Are there any adv/disadv to either ?

The denitrator in my 1st breeding rack (6+ months) is releasing nitrates at 5-10ppm. This rack is 300lt, and houses approx. 350 shrimps. The left tube is tank and right tube is denitrator water...

post-29-139909859209_thumb.jpg

The denitrator in my 2nd breeding rack (1+ months) is releasing nitrates at 0ppm. This rack is 225lt, and houses approx. 150 shrimps. The left tube is tank and right tube is denitrator water...

post-990-139909848361_thumb.jpg

These tanks are fed daily, so the biology undue high..... Although the 2nd breeding tank is ONLY 1+ month old, the filter was matured, and the tank had shrimps from day 3....

So, the question is how do I get the denitrator in rack no 1 to produce 0 nitrates ? Extra feed with tablet/powder ? ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Before coming to this forum I thought I was the only shrimp fanatic in Australia. I have learned so much by reading threads such as your BlueBolts and you are all an inspiration to me. Keep up the good work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's many of us fanatics around....great to share and see progress from all.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Racks going great, although they're both due for new substrate, as the buffers worn out :-( Been adding minerals, fluvial acids etc just to keep the shrimps appeased. Just noticed that the demand to constantly boost up my GH is getting more frequent. Approx. 22 bags of Benibachi soils required  :startle:  :startle:  :startle:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
×
×
  • Create New...