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  1. Yesterday
  2. That's due to the salty shrimp GH/KH+ which is doing what it is supposed to. If you don't want pH to rise you need to use Salty Shrimp GH+. That fluorite substrate needs to go. Depending on which version of Fluorite you bought, the red or black version, flourite has iron, potassium and magnesium and high levels of calcium and sodium present.
  3. Those are some healthy discus, I used to breed them about 18 years ago, I had ultra high body and high fin, but those a really rare these days if you are after some good quality ones.
  4. Last week
  5. Andrea Eliasdottir

    Welcome Andrea Eliasdottir

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  6. beanbag

    Here we go again!

    Until 1-2ppm ammonia
  7. Milez803

    Welcome Milez803

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  8. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    BANG goes that theory then, d'oh! Are 2 of them close if so I would discard the one which is different. Other options would be to get some water tested by an aquarium shop and see which are nearest and discard the other(s). I have also come across this with other tests such as droplet tests from different companies so would do as CurleyJones says, and I now do, pick one and stick with that one (at least you should get a consistent), only problem with this is working out which is most accurate to stick to using. With 3 there must be 2 which are closer than one so I would assume the third is best thrown out, or as I say, take them all to an aquarium shop and get the shop to test one of their tanks and then you use yours to see which is the nearest? I always swoosh mine in the tank about 10 times in case there is some unwanted contaminant on the prongs, rather than just dip it in the tank. Simon
  9. Shocks

    Welcome Shocks

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  10. jayc

    Red Cherry shrimp?

    You don't need to separate them. It's not a disease.
  11. jayc

    Coloured Ramshorn snails

    Knowing @Baccus, he probably has a thousand of them by now.
  12. Panda Shark

    Welcome Panda Shark

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  13. Yatsutora

    Welcome Yatsutora

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  14. pauldoi

    Welcome DonP

    Hi Don!
  15. sdlTBfanUK

    bee shrimps with eggs

    You have been making changes over the earlier period so that may make a difference and the tank is more established the longer you go so don't be put off trying blues and blacks again, from a different source. Those ones did better with me but they were from a different supplier than the reds. I would personally doubt the 'colour' would make any difference, more likely to be the source/breeder? Still, those red ones are stunning so you can't loose either way! Don't be put off trying again from a different supply though! Woohoo! More shrimplets, at this rate you may soon need a bigger tank? My newly set up tank is being a bit stubborn and not moving from nitrates of 25........ I will test it again on wednesday and if it s still being stubborn I guess I will have to do a big(gish) water change, d'oh! I guess if I use just RO water and do 8L (1/3) it will get the GH and TDS to the better parameters at the same time. Thankfully it is a rubbish UK weather week so shoudn't be too warm.Luckily I also haven't put the buckets away from setting the tank up. Simon
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    Starting up a Shrimp Tank,Need Some Advice

    I hear what you are saying and can see that for saltwater tanks which have a much brighter/whiter appearance you don't want to be able to see all the working equipment. I started with 3 very small (admittedly) versions of this hidden back section type of tank and they do seem to be becoming more popular nowadays and bigger ones are probably better than the smaller ones. The small ones I had suffered mainly from the following, They had slots in the back where water was drawn through to the working back area and these slots were too large for anything other than fully grown adults to be safe as the others could get drawn through or wander through the slots. If you put sponge behind the slots it solves this problem but it restricts the flow and soon gets blocked with detritus and as the tanks have slots at the top (as well as the bottom usually) they obviously realise this can happen. The ones I had, because of this, meant the water level in the back was always lower than the tank level even on the lowest pump speed setting and this was partly due to the heater being in the back causing evaporation, as the back sections had no cover either. With this 'problem' in a smaller tank it is very risky as the level could drop low enough that it affects the heater (this probably wouldn't happen with bigger versions IF you make sure the heater is as low down as possible in the back). It did mean that I had to keep a careful eye on the level at the back which isn't easy if kept in a recess or piece of furniture that surrounds the tank. The largest one I had (only 15L admittedly) was actually the worst design, as it had 2 small sponges right in the bottom of the back sections and how the f**k they thought that was a good design still eludes me to this day, years later. After a good hour of trying to get them out as they were so oversized so even turning it over and bashing it (never a good idea with an aquarium, but I was almost at the I'm going to get a hammer stage) wouldn't get them out, there were 2, one normal sponge and one carbon sponge - A definite WTF moment and how you are supposed to do/get that out when the tank has water in it???????. I still have, and use this one as an emergency and I got around the sponge problem by getting a large sheet of sponge and cutting it to fill the whole rear section to the top so I can then get hold of it and it does make maintenance a doddle but probably also doesn't help the flow and level in the back. Again, it is a small tank so the divisions at the back were a lot smaller than a larger one, but even a large one must be tricky to get your arm down the back if the sponge is at the very bottom if you don't have clear access to the back. My heaters have temperature leds on as well but thats a waste of time if you can't even see the heater hidden in the back so you have to be able to keep checking it is working which again can be difficult depending on where the tank is, so if the heater sticks on (and I am probably the wrong person to say this as I recently cooked all my shrimp in an aquarium that didn't have the back sections) you won't be able to see easily? OK Enough here I think! There are many reasons listed above (and others) that I would and don't use this type of aquarium any more for keeping shrimps. I do not doubt they are really good for bigger inhabitants, and especially saltwater setups where you don't want to see the workings as it is a lighter setup, and as long as you have the tank somewhere where the rear is easily accessible and viewable. It is pretty logical that if the equipment is in the main aquarium it is easier to get at/maintain /see, but the latter may not be a preference to some people I appreciate that, and that is why I started out with the built in back sections. Now the easier access/maintenance is preferable and by using black background with black filter and heater it reduces the equipments visual impact. To summarise , would I recommend this type for small shrimp (this is a shrimp first forum after all) is a definite NO (also most shrimp peoples tanks are small in size, unless they are serious breeders), but it doesn't mean it isn't doable and you shouldn't get one if that is what you want and that is my opinion based on my EXPERIENCE from the 3 small tanks I started out with. Most things I have found in life, the theory is way better than the reality! Hope this answers any queries sufficiently, if not just ask, but be prepared for another mega reply? It is a cold and wet day here is the UK, so typical summer here so I have nothing better to do................
  17. Abhisek

    Welcome Abhisek

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  18. Earlier
  19. Steensj2004

    Welcome Steensj2004

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  20. sdlTBfanUK

    Filter for shrimp tank

    Most of your technical questions are a bit over my head, but this is what I use on all the tanks: https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/internal-filters/1826-superfish-aqua-flow-50-8715897041747.html I use 2 in each tank and some come with cartridges of carbon, those I remove the carbon and just cut a bit of bigger sponge to fill the whole space. It is super easy, no carbon or ceramic etc, just the sponge, nothing else. There is a cap on the bottom which I permanently remove so there is more area exposed to the water and then to clean all I do is turn the whole thing about 120 degrees, pull out the sponge through the open bottom, squeeze it in removed tank water, put the sponge back in through the bottom and twist back into place. There is no taking anything apart as the bottom cover has been left off and the whole maintenance takes about 60 seconds if not less???? Having the 2 per tank (30L) makes it easy when you get a new tank as well as you can remove the dirty sponge from one and replace it with the other ones new sponge etc and you have immediate BB in both tanks, and any way they are so cheap why not have 2? It is ALL super cheap, super easy and super basic. I very rarely change the sponges either but again as there are 2 it won't upset anything if you change one sponge or if one of the filters breaks. Incidently I have had some 5+ years and not 1 has failed yet. This is what I have done/used for years, sorry I can't be of more help on the specific technical questions you pose but as you see we really are talking a basic system of muck sucked into sponge and that is it, and the spray bars aerate the tank when the water comes out the other end. Simon
  21. MQF

    Welcome MQF

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  22. Ecliption

    Welcome Ecliption

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  23. jayc

    CRS food preference?

    @supermansteve32, have a read of the Food and Nutrition forum. I'm sure you will get lots of ideas there. My best tip is ... don't stick to processed/bought foods. Vege scraps, flowers, leaves, prawns, frozen bloodworms. The list is huge. I only feed bought foods on lazy days.
  24. jayc

    Betta Water Parameters

    That's just one of the use cases.
  25. 845515473

    Welcome 845515473

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  26. inverted

    prodibio biodigest

    Bit late to this thread. I must have missed it at the time however the fastest way to cycle active soils is to lift the ph temporarily to rapidly establish nitrifying bacteria. If in a rush I do this using potassium bicarbonate. The residual byproduct is a fertiliser.
  27. EmmaS

    Welcome EmmaS

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  28. sdlTBfanUK

    CRS Tank Log

    Another great photo. I can see you have the whole range of sizes, and some red cherry. The red cherry don't look to be adults yet so I assume they are breeding well also? Keep it up and you might need a bigger tank....................... always good to hear of a success story! Simon
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