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- Past hour
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hi to all a friend of mine as had a load of shrimp die and didnt know why he sent me photoes and said these red spots appear and a few days later they are dead, all water perameters have been checkek and are fine.before they die they lie on their side an just move theis swimmers also the red patches go clear like an ulsar ive looked at these shrimp and believe it is rust spot but would like a second oppinion third or fourth, i thank you in advance Richie
- Yesterday
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No, because you would never be able to clean it out.
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Start of cycling a brand new tank.
sdlTBfanUK replied to DKC's topic in General Questions/Discussions
I don't think most people measure GH or KH in parts per million, I think your results would be KH 0-1 and GH 3-4. You don't need to remember the colour the drops should change too, as, as you say the colour in the test tube should match the original drops colour to get your reading. You may need to get some GH/KH+ for cherry/neocaridina shrimp, as your results are nearer caridina shrimp parameters. Cherry shrimp though are a lot tougher than bee shrimps so they may even survive in the parameters you have but not do as well? Anyway, if you are still cycling you can come back to that nearer the time that is done. The best shrimps to get are juveniles as you know you will have them longer (you can't tell how old an adult is) and they are better suited to adapting to new water parameters etc. You may find the below video interesting and useful as it covers virtually all you need to know at the start:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pO6iJPbmdk Simon -
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HI Welcome to SKFA. Are your shrimps eating the crab cuisine at all? I don't blame them if they are not eating it. There are much better alternatives out there. Crabs will eat any junk, but shrimps are a lot pickier in their choice of food. Have a read of the numerous choices in the "Food & Nutrition" subforum. And remember, you don't have to limit yourself (and the shrimps) to processed foods. Look at leaves, flowers, vegetable off cuts or even frozen bloodworms.
- Last week
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sorry , I was a bit worried about my new shrimp . forgot the intro . my name is Brian , new to shrimp , been keeping Marmokrebs ( self cloning crayfish ) I live in Nebraska , U.S.
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White tiny substance in Shrimp aquarium bed
sdlTBfanUK replied to Oman Azmat's topic in Shrimp Health & Care
My photos were below 500kb so you may still be a bit large???? Thats only a guess though!!! A real stab in the dark but if it is a recently set up tank, it may be fungus, that isnt a rare occurance with new tanks. There is a photo on this recent post if that helps? -
Might not be a parasite. See this thread.
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Awesome thanks for the tips!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks! Great to hear it’s not harmful [emoji38] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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How long to drip acclimate if parameters are very different?
jayc replied to beanbag's topic in Shrimp Health & Care
One full day might not be enough, if the parameters are very different. Use your TDS meter as the guide, not the clock. -
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- Earlier
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PH at CO2 peak at 5.4 too low for CRS?
TheLordOfTheFish replied to TheLordOfTheFish's topic in Caridina logemanni
And just like on command, I spotted a berried crystal! Let's hope the babies make it! -
I know how old this thread is, I got here with a Google search for "blue shrimp lose their color " which has happened to me at least a half dozen times- they literally molt into natural brown and gray. Anyone solve this mystery in the last few years? Anyway on this topic, the general consensus of the general aquarist with other species bred for minute color variations is to label them with a batch number which acts almost like a sku... so for example on something like a cichlid or pleco you get the morph name followed by a number indicating the last few generations. Example "green dragon pleco 242" which tells us the breeding stock on both sides and can be used to ID at least the morphs going back to the point where they split from another subtype/name.
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