Jump to content

It begins. My shrimp rack journey.


DG17

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Thought it would be fun to post the progress of my shrimp rack progress so far ive made the structure or frame, my friend is a shop fitter so he has made me the skin for it in satin black, i'm receiving that tomorrow, ill be sure to post them too.

post-1108-139909859924_thumb.jpgbottom shelf with the white is the sump chiller and uv light cabinet, it will be all white in there so i can actually see since the room itself is already very dim where it is going.

post-277-139909859928_thumb.jpgpost-2318-139909849629_thumb.jpgworking from right to left the water will enter from the right and pass 4 puigen bags, through 6lt of Eheim substratpro up past a heater in section2 then down into the center section which will rotate the 15-20Lt of K1 media into a circular motion then back through some filter wool then back under into an eiheim pump! I will also have duel sponge filters in each tank with diy K1 moving media bottles.

post-2318-139909849632_thumb.jpgpost-2318-139909849635_thumb.jpgThese are my custom 3x1.5x1.5ft tanks with outlet holes drilled at the bottom for the pvc plumbing. The idea's where inspired by deans and BBs set up with a few little changes. fingers crossed i have the success once its eventually done and full of shrimp!

I also have ordered a chiller and uv lamp and have 2 3ft led lights and a Huge box of pvc piping, RO/DI unit GH+ saltyshrimp ready to go. whats left to buy is my million bags of benibachi substrate, mineral powder, red bee balls and driftwood and decor'

oh and shrimp

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated :)

Enjoy!!

post-1433-139909859332_thumb.jpg

post-1433-139909859334_thumb.jpg

post-1433-139909859336_thumb.jpg

post-1433-139909859338_thumb.jpg

post-1433-13990985934_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • DG17

    24

  • BlueBolts

    10

  • Squiggle

    8

  • jrc693

    4

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

This is almost exactly what im doing! how are u doing the pump from sump to tank? will it go from top to middle to bottom?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey mate,

I havnt thought about that yet im basically going to play trial and error i have purchased a hell of a lot of pvc pipe so im going to test out bottom to top then middle and im also going to test out splitting into 2 early from the sump and run valves for each split to get an even flow in each tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks fantastic...really exciting. All my inflows are from the top with a spray bar (eheim) just on surface level for agitations, and to keep the surface area clean......

Can wait to see the tank & skin on. The benibachi substrate is expensive but it works, and takes away so many issues and problems with breeding shrimps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great write up so far mate,

cant wait to see this as it progresses. a few things i might be able to help with are.

1. the K1 media in the sump, you will need to add a pump of some large air-stones/flow to get the media to move enough to be effective. the K1 requires high flow..

2. please DONT run the plumbing to the top tank only and let it flow down the rest. this is not a good way to do it as you are effectively putting the dirty water from the tank above into the tank below. you are better to have a line running into each tank individually and this way you can also isolate each tank individually if/when its required.

if you are using pressure pipe/ pvc pipe then a few extra fittings will save you many head ache in the future. also put a ball valve on the inlet to each compartment/tank so you can control the exact flow rate to each tank.

the main reasons for being abole to isolate each and every tank individually is.

1. if you have a planeria/hydra outbreak, you can dose 1 tank at a time and do complete water change when finished. then when you have filled the tank agian and conect it back to the system, it is only that % of the overall system volume being added back in and should be no more than a water change to the system :)

2. if you notice a bacteria or disease in some shrimp in a tank it can be isolated and treated same as above.

3. if/when you decide to change the tank around, it can be isolated to stop the rest of the system from being disturbed.

if you have any other questions or need advice for anything just ask :)

also price for Benibachi is not that big really when you look at the value for $ and also the $per KG as compared to others.

another thing i can help with :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Different to your's, my outlet holes are on the side. As Dean mentioned, ease tank has a ball valve (see pic - behind the light unit) to control the flow/isolation.

post-2318-139909849638_thumb.jpg

post-24-139909848602_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats awesome info thanks heaps guys.

Dean, im def running an extra pump in the center section of my sump sorry for got to mention that :) its going to help move the media in a circular motion.

so do you think i should run 2 separate pumps for the top tank and bottom then or will splitting 1 pipe from the pump into 2 and having a valve for each top and bottom be suffice?

And ill be running an eiheim pump as it has adjustable flow but not sure if i should get a 2000 or 3000 lt/h unit the top tank is a tad over 2m off the ground so the pump ha a fair way to push water and the lower one is 1.4m + the fact im splitting into 2. would it be safe going the bigger one?

Def going to use benibachi guys, my only issue is that i live in syd so shipping cost may be an issue.

Thanks BB i was originally going to go from the back as well but want the overall cabinet closer to the wall to match the python cabinet i have next to it.

this is why i opted for the bottom and running up PVC for water to over flow into, just need to see where i can get my mesh from.

went to bunnings to buy valves to fit my pvc but no luck, any suggestions where else i can find those ball valves that will fit pvc?

Thanks heaps guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any good reticulation/irrigation shop would have the balls valves.. Bunnings should have them too...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BB i guess im just blind then haha, i should actually ask instead of wonder around. i swear i go there to nuy one thing and come back with a feww 100 worth of stuff and there has even been a few times where ive gone and forgot to purchase the original thing i wanted...

Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok you can also incorporate both these things into one :)

if you go the larger return pump and split the flow at the sump with a TEE fitting and a ball valve, you can have half the flow going directly back into the sump

or in this case, into the K1 media section to create the flow. the other side of the TEE fitting will go to all the tanks and be regulated by the ball valves on each tank.

also shipping is really not that expensive :) just pm me you post code and how many bags you might want and ill give you a shipping price :)

you will save electricity and space having 1 pump to do both jobs :)

http://www.wetearth.com.au/Product/ProductSearch1.asp

sorry for the crap pic but i drew it to show you what i mean :)

post-277-139909849647_thumb.jpg

Dean, im def running an extra pump in the center section of my sump sorry for got to mention that :) its going to help move the media in a circular motion.

so do you think i should run 2 separate pumps for the top tank and bottom then or will splitting 1 pipe from the pump into 2 and having a valve for each top and bottom be suffice?

post-29-139909848609_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I just suggest that you check you actually have plumbing PVC pipe & not electrical condute, I made that mistake today, I couldn't find any fittings & eventually figured out I had electrical condute. Easiest way to tell is the colour, white is plumbing & grey or orange is electrical. Hope this helps :encouragement:

image-74_zpsa3e12252.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it better to have a overflow in each section like DG is doing or is it ok to have a 3ft with dividers and then an overflow on the otherside of the spraybar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

both ways work but you cannot isolate any of the individual sections with a single overflow on divided tank.

the more control over each tank/section/compartment you have, the better and safer it will be for the complete rack :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work guys. I can't contribute here as everyone has pretty much said the things I thought about lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dean your a legend thanks the drawing made enough sense !

thanks to everyone else too ill pe posting more as i progress!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it better to have a overflow in each section like DG is doing or is it ok to have a 3ft with dividers and then an overflow on the otherside of the spraybar?

Definitely a overflow to each tank for isolation.

Also, I would have a ball valve to each individual tank for specific isolation as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you do need to isolate a section, how do you provide filtration during that period? Sponge-filters only?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you do need to isolate a section' date=' how do you provide filtration during that period? Sponge-filters only?[/quote']

Several options...

1. As mentioned, sponge filter ONLY, with regular water changes

2. Cannister/Over Hang filter, using used/old filter medium

This keeps the tank totally isolated for any emergency issues/reasons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks BB as soon as dean drew up a diagram I jumped on line and ordered 10 ball valves each tank and section of each tank will have a ball valve.. I was worried about buying a big pump with too much power but running the extra flow with a t piece and a valve back to the k1 section makes everything a lot easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-2255-139909849716_thumb.jpgpost-2255-139909849721_thumb.jpgpost-2255-139909849726_thumb.jpg

So here is the skin for my cabinet, my mate put together for me, not to bad for free i think :) , its satin black in colour. He is coming by sometime this week to fit the hinges properly for the bottom doors. The sides of the cabinet also clip on and off the frame in case i need to adjust the plumbing and so forth. ill have covers made up out of gloss black perspex to hide all the pvc and open to feed and clean once i fit the tanks and work out how far down past the top of the tank i have to make them.

post-1433-139909848625_thumb.jpg

post-1433-139909848626_thumb.jpg

post-1433-139909848629_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, very impressive...what a mate. We all need friends like that. So quick put the tanks up. Can't wait to see it running !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
×
×
  • Create New...