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    • bristlenose
      By bristlenose
      Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in.
      Previous tank parameters:
      Ammonia: 0 
      nitrite: 0 
      nitrates: 20ppm
      Ph: 8
      substrate: sand 
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      I don't know any other parameters.  cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. 
      New tank parameters:
      ammonia: 0
      Nitrite: 0
      Nitrates:30-40ppm 
      co2: 3-4 bps 
      Ph: 6.5
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      substrate: ada aquasoil
      The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
       

    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Aquariums make a wonderful hobby. They are soothing, interesting and can provide a lot of fun and entertainment. However, in order to make the most of your aquarium, taking proper care of it is exceptionally important. It must be maintained, and part of proper maintenance is understanding issues that can develop.
      One of the side effects of improper aquarium maintenance is the development of pests, and Hydra oligactis – more commonly referred to as just hydra is one of the most dangerous. Also known as freshwater polyps, these pests hail from the Coelenterata family of aquatic invertebrates. They have a tubular body and a sticky foot located on one end and tentacles on the other end. The tentacles contain stinging cells, which the hydra uses to immobilize its’ prey.
      Why Hydra are Dangerous in Aquariums
      Though hydras are basic creatures that lack a brain, a respiratory system or even musculature, they are a real threat to aquariums. As mentioned, they use their stinging tentacles to immobilize their prey and are able to kill and eat fish fry and even adult fish. Additionally, they reproduce very quickly, creating buds that turn into new hydra that eventually break off on their own. And, though they do tend to stay in one place (using their sticky foot to secure them to a surface,) they can easily move around if they choose.
      Given their ability to eat fish, how quickly they reproduce and that they can move about when they want, it’s easy to see why hydra are a real issue in an aquarium.
      Treating Hydra in an Aquarium
      Once an aquarium has infiltrated an aquarium, they can be hard to eradicate; however, getting rid of them is possible. The treatment for these pests depends on the extent of the infestation.
      If the infestation is relatively small, you may actually be able to physically remove them. If they have taken up residence on plants and rocks, they can be killed by removing the plants and rocks and sock them in a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water for about 15 minutes. After soaking, rinse the plants and rocks with fresh water and let them air dry.
      If you are looking for a less intrusive method of removal that will not disturb the aquarium, you can do so by introducing fish that will eat the pests. Mollies, Paradise fish and Spot (blue) Gouramis are known to favor hydra and can rid an aquarium of them.
      Heat is another option that can be used to treat an infestation of hydra. With this treatment method, the fish must be removed from the tank first. Once they are removed, increase the temperature of the water to 40°C (104°F) for a few hours. This will essentially cook the hydra and kill them. Turn the temperature of the water down, clean the gravel and change the water. Ensure that the temperature of the water is safe for the fish before reintroducing them.
      Chemicals and medicines can also be used to treat hydra; however, do keep in mind that they can be harmful to aquatic life. Copper Sulfate and Potassium Permanganate are two of the most common and safest options in fish only aquariums.
      Also take a look at the following article regarding common medication used in aquariums:
      Image credit: 
      Wikipedia: Hydra oligactis
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Aquariums make a wonderful hobby. They are soothing, interesting and can provide a lot of fun and entertainment. However, in order to make the most of your aquarium, taking proper care of it is exceptionally important. It must be maintained, and part of proper maintenance is understanding issues that can develop.
      One of the side effects of improper aquarium maintenance is the development of pests, and Hydra oligactis – more commonly referred to as just hydra is one of the most dangerous. Also known as freshwater polyps, these pests hail from the Coelenterata family of aquatic invertebrates. They have a tubular body and a sticky foot located on one end and tentacles on the other end. The tentacles contain stinging cells, which the hydra uses to immobilize its’ prey.
      Why Hydra are Dangerous in Aquariums
      Though hydras are basic creatures that lack a brain, a respiratory system or even musculature, they are a real threat to aquariums. As mentioned, they use their stinging tentacles to immobilize their prey and are able to kill and eat fish fry and even adult fish. Additionally, they reproduce very quickly, creating buds that turn into new hydra that eventually break off on their own. And, though they do tend to stay in one place (using their sticky foot to secure them to a surface,) they can easily move around if they choose.
      Given their ability to eat fish, how quickly they reproduce and that they can move about when they want, it’s easy to see why hydra are a real issue in an aquarium.
      Treating Hydra in an Aquarium
      Once an aquarium has infiltrated an aquarium, they can be hard to eradicate; however, getting rid of them is possible. The treatment for these pests depends on the extent of the infestation.
      If the infestation is relatively small, you may actually be able to physically remove them. If they have taken up residence on plants and rocks, they can be killed by removing the plants and rocks and sock them in a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water for about 15 minutes. After soaking, rinse the plants and rocks with fresh water and let them air dry.
      If you are looking for a less intrusive method of removal that will not disturb the aquarium, you can do so by introducing fish that will eat the pests. Mollies, Paradise fish and Spot (blue) Gouramis are known to favor hydra and can rid an aquarium of them.
      Heat is another option that can be used to treat an infestation of hydra. With this treatment method, the fish must be removed from the tank first. Once they are removed, increase the temperature of the water to 40°C (104°F) for a few hours. This will essentially cook the hydra and kill them. Turn the temperature of the water down, clean the gravel and change the water. Ensure that the temperature of the water is safe for the fish before reintroducing them.
      Chemicals and medicines can also be used to treat hydra; however, do keep in mind that they can be harmful to aquatic life. Copper Sulfate and Potassium Permanganate are two of the most common and safest options in fish only aquariums.
      Also take a look at the following article regarding common medication used in aquariums:
      Image credit: 
      Wikipedia: Hydra oligactis

      View full article
    • skfadmin
      By skfadmin
      HYDRA Some facts!!!
      Hydra are a fresh water animal that belongs to the same group as jellyfish, corals and anemones, The name Hydra stems from Greek mythology. It was the name given to a many headed sea serpent. The hydra that we know resembles this mythological monster by its many tentacles.
      Hydra are found in nearly all clean fresh water systems in Australia and around the world . They have a range of colours from brown, green white, and many other variations .
      Many people have Hydra in their aquariums, but are unaware of their presence. They are very small approx. 2 - 3 mm in length ( but can extend to around 1cm when hunting) when hanging from the underneath of leaves of water plants are hard to distinguish

      A Hydra infestation does not just mysteriously appear in your aquarium and is not caused by poor tank maintenance or anything like that. The animal has to be introduced from some external source.
      It is usually introduced to aquariums from plants ,wood, rocks etc collected from wild creeks, rivers lakes and billabongs.
      Hydra have a sack shaped body that consists of a mouth /anus combination on the top surrounded by a crown of tentacles that carry an array of stinging cells.
      on the bottom of the tube body there is a "foot" ( basal Disk)a device the animal uses to anchor itself to plants ,rocks aquarium walls and the like.
      Hydra live attached to vegetation, rocks and walls by this "foot" with all its tentacles suspended into the water waiting for it's pray to blunder into them. Small animals that happen to blunder into the tentacles are stung and paralysed.
      within a short time all of the tentacles are wrapped around the victim conflicting many more stings. the victim is then drawn to the mouth and swallowed. Digestion is done over a period of several hours .Any un digested material remaining after this period is then expelled back through the mouth.
      The hydra is then ready to hunt again .
      It takes several hours for their weapons to recharge which it does while digesting it's food. Small aquatic animals like Rotifers, insect larvae, and ( especially) small crustaceans such as daphnia, seed shrimp and water flee, are their main pray.

      Hydra do not always stay in the one spot in the aquarium. they are able to move about in a couple of ways. They are able to secrete a sticky mass under the basal disk and they use this fluid to kind of slide themselves along to a new position. Another way is they detach the basal disk, bend over placing their tentacles on the substrate and then somersaulting re attaching the "foot" further along, they will continue to do this action until they reach their preferred position.
      The third manoeuvre noted is that they are able to produce an air bubble in the basal disk this raises them to the top of the water where they hang suspended waiting for pray.

      Hydra do most of their reproduction in the summer months. Most reproduction is "A" Sexual and involves a process called "Budding" in which a new Hydra develops as a bud on the parent central column . When conditions are right the bud breaks loose and continues life as an individual. These offspring are genetically identical to the parent ( true clones) .
      Under very good conditions hydra may possess several buds at various stages of development. Sexual reproduction is usually confined to the cooler months. Ovaries develop as an oval swelling near the column base. testis form as conical protrusions further up the column the sperm is free floating and can fertilize itself and other hydra. the young develop directly without a larval stage. HYDRA are beautiful but a bit annoying creatures.
      Given their reproductive abilities, their capability for moving around when they choose and the ability to eat pray several times their size. it's clear why hydra are not welcome in freshwater aquariums .
      They are believed to be able to cause harm or kill newly hatched shrimp, and in laboratory conditions they have been proven to eat baby brine shrimp. Adult shrimp are not effected by hydra stings except possibly as an annoyance. The larger Hydra have also been shown to eat small fish fry as large as newly borne guppies . Once hydra are introduced into an aquarium they can be difficult to get rid of them. ( but it's not impossible) If you are lucky to only have a small infestation you should be able to physically remove them, I removed the infestation that I had by wiping the tank sides down with a clean cloth, removed all rocks ,wood, from the tank and scrubbed them, plants I soaked in a light bleach solution for around 10 minutes before rinsing in fresh water and replacing. Another non intrusive way is to add some fish to eat them Gouramis or mollies will do the trick. ( not a good idea if you keep shrimp).
      Heat is another method. ( you have to remove all your livestock to do this) heat your aquarium water to around 40C for about 2 hours. this should kill them, Perform a minimum 50% water change and make sure that the water temp is back to normal before returning your live stock .
      Chemicals that can be used are potassium permanganate, or many of the fish anti fluke medications especially if they contain formalin. WARNING THESE CHEMICALS MAY BE HARMFUL TO SHRIMP, SNAILS, PLANTS and sometimes FISH. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!! Some preventative measures are to inspect all live plants carefully( look for small jelly like substances) soak all plants in an approved solution before adding them to your aquarium. Avoid live foods from local rivers creeks etc. Boil all substrate wood rocks collected from the wild before adding to your tank .
      References used :- Bugguide Version Jan 2009 Information sources Wikipedia. org/wiki/imdra Williams 1980 Pennak 1989 Gooderham & Syrlin 2002 Offwell Woodland & wildlife Trust UK Researcher Wayne Summerhayes Febuary 2013.
    • VaultBoy
      By VaultBoy
      Hi everyone, I have a bit of a problem (i think...) I seem to have added freshwater hydra into my tank somehow and have noticed massive population increase at the same time as I have had blue dreams, tb, pinto and crs mischlings all release babies. For a bit of perspective, the tank is only about 3 months old but was started with mature substrate and filter media so I could cycle it more quickly as I had to get my shrimp in there asap. I am new to keeping all of the variants in this tank but have kept an RCS colony for 3-4 years so wanted to try new things in a shrimp only tank.
      So my questions are...
      Do I actually have a problem? Are the hydra going to eat the babies?
      If they are a problem then how do I get rid of them? I dont want to introduce any fish, cant really remove all shrimp/shrimplets to heat the water enough to kill them and I dont think there are any shrimp safe medicated solutions... Please help me!
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    • ineke
      Hi Crabby, I’ve been popping in and out quite often and answered a few questions here and there .  Im glad to have been of so assistance to fellow shrimp keepers over the years.  It’s a bit sad to see the forum so quiet. We were a very active and friendly bunch over the years. Helping each other out, giving away shrimp to new members who showed interest. Even playing games between us and generally having fun while learning about our new hobby. As to my tank the reason I queried about the spike of ammonia is mainly because if you play with substrate , move it around etc you can cause a small spike. As my substrate had been outside for quite some time I fully expected it to take a week or so to go through a mini cycle. I’m pleasantly surprised that it still isn’t showing any change just the tiniest bit of nitrate so tomorrow i will catch out 20 culls I have in my pond outside and see how they go. I need a reasonable number because it’s a big tank - if I only put 1 or 2 in I might never see them. I’m wanting to put all my black pinto, galaxy and Taitibees into the tank plus some Blue Bolts and Steel Blues. I will also put my Bloody Mary’s in for a contrasting colour. I only have 3 tanks now so it’s a bit hard to do proper selective breeding but as all my shrimp are hybrids it doesn’t really matter about mixing them. That leaves a tank for my Red pintos and Taitibees and a tank for fancy Tiger patterns and Blue Diamonds. That should keep me happy again.🥰
    • Crabby
      Hi Ineke! I must say, I was pretty surprised to see a post from you, it’s always pretty interesting to see a past member come back to the forum. Some of your posts were really helpful to me when I was getting started with shrimp, so thanks!   I think I would personally wait a week to be sure, but to be honest, I can’t see any reason for an ammonia spike. If the substrate has already run for 4 months, and you have 4 fully cycled filters, I reckon you should be fine. Definitely go culls first though. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I uderstand your concern, it is concerning! You are probably just going to have to ride this out, as JayC, add another filter and bacteria, the bacteria you will just have to buy what the shop has and give that ago? Do as thorough vac as you can, moving things out of the way where you can. Keep up with water changes as well as that will reduce the ammonia etc, but add new water slowly. Simon
    • ineke
      Thanks Simon . I just needed someone else’s thoughts. I will pop a few culls in over the weekend if the ammonia hasn’t spiked. Better to be over cautious than sorry. It just didn’t seem right that there was no spike but I guess 2 large canisters full of bacteria are a big help too. I will let you know how the culls go after the weekend.  As you say sometimes things just go right but not very often when you have TB type shrimp involved 😳 No not really I’ve been very lucky over the years with no actual disasters with my shrimp.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would thnk everything is ok as the sustrate was used and passed the point it may cause a spike, but just check it for a week (occassionally ammonia/nitrite/nitrate, you could leave it for the week but I would prefer the extra peace of mind you will have from more frequent testing for this week) and try some culls now to be on the safe side! Using the old water will have helped, undoubtedly! There doesn't sound like anything mentioned would cause anything other than what you have seen, but I understand your concern, rarely does everything go so well in this hobby, but with your years of experience and from your post all looks great - I will however keep my fingers crossed................ It is always great to have past members return and hear how it is going? I have read many of your old posts with interest. Simon
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