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Hydra and shrimplets?


VaultBoy
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Hi everyone, I have a bit of a problem (i think...) I seem to have added freshwater hydra into my tank somehow and have noticed massive population increase at the same time as I have had blue dreams, tb, pinto and crs mischlings all release babies. For a bit of perspective, the tank is only about 3 months old but was started with mature substrate and filter media so I could cycle it more quickly as I had to get my shrimp in there asap. I am new to keeping all of the variants in this tank but have kept an RCS colony for 3-4 years so wanted to try new things in a shrimp only tank.

So my questions are...

Do I actually have a problem? Are the hydra going to eat the babies?

If they are a problem then how do I get rid of them? I dont want to introduce any fish, cant really remove all shrimp/shrimplets to heat the water enough to kill them and I dont think there are any shrimp safe medicated solutions... Please help me!

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Tech den sells a product I forget the name though. I had a small number of hydra I use to scrape/suck them up with air hose. However I added some black moscows and they ate the remainder and palaria too. I know the sorce of where mine came from Thankfully. 

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Hydra can be a problem if they are in high numbers or there are a very large number of shrimplets in the tank. I use asolene spixi snails in my tanks to to keep them in check, some apple snails will eat them too.

here is one of my crs shrimplet being eaten

mini_815418P1060058.jpg

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I'd also like to keep updated in this thread. I've noticed some in my little shrimp tank and have no idea how they got there...


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I use a worming product that has fenbendazole (different to flubendazole) as the active ingredient.  I use Panacur100 (100g fenbendazole per litre) at a dose rate of 8ml per 100 litres.  You can also get Panacur25 (25g fenbendazole per litre) in which case I'd dose 32ml per 100 litres.

It clears planaria, hydra and also worms the fish.  Shrimp are fine IME.

Panacur is a livestock wormer and I think the smallest bottle is 1  litre and not cheap. You might find other worming products in smaller quantities.. or someone else on this forum will pitch in with a source.

lots of info if you google search for fenbendazole and shrimp.

Also see flubendazole (as opposed to fenbendazole).  They seem to do the same job but are different compounds.

Edited by Grubs
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Thanks for the input everyone. I really dont like medicating my tanks if it can be avoided so for now I have physically removed them where I could, given the soil a clean up and dramatically reduced feeding and ill see if the problem just goes away on its own. It is good to know that there is a shrimp safe treatment if it comes to that.

 

Ive also noticed more of my babies getting around so dont think they were too badly damaged by the pests.

Edited by VaultBoy
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    • NoGi
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      Also take a look at the following article regarding common medication used in aquariums:
      Image credit: 
      Wikipedia: Hydra oligactis

      View full article
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Aquariums make a wonderful hobby. They are soothing, interesting and can provide a lot of fun and entertainment. However, in order to make the most of your aquarium, taking proper care of it is exceptionally important. It must be maintained, and part of proper maintenance is understanding issues that can develop.
      One of the side effects of improper aquarium maintenance is the development of pests, and Hydra oligactis – more commonly referred to as just hydra is one of the most dangerous. Also known as freshwater polyps, these pests hail from the Coelenterata family of aquatic invertebrates. They have a tubular body and a sticky foot located on one end and tentacles on the other end. The tentacles contain stinging cells, which the hydra uses to immobilize its’ prey.
      Why Hydra are Dangerous in Aquariums
      Though hydras are basic creatures that lack a brain, a respiratory system or even musculature, they are a real threat to aquariums. As mentioned, they use their stinging tentacles to immobilize their prey and are able to kill and eat fish fry and even adult fish. Additionally, they reproduce very quickly, creating buds that turn into new hydra that eventually break off on their own. And, though they do tend to stay in one place (using their sticky foot to secure them to a surface,) they can easily move around if they choose.
      Given their ability to eat fish, how quickly they reproduce and that they can move about when they want, it’s easy to see why hydra are a real issue in an aquarium.
      Treating Hydra in an Aquarium
      Once an aquarium has infiltrated an aquarium, they can be hard to eradicate; however, getting rid of them is possible. The treatment for these pests depends on the extent of the infestation.
      If the infestation is relatively small, you may actually be able to physically remove them. If they have taken up residence on plants and rocks, they can be killed by removing the plants and rocks and sock them in a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water for about 15 minutes. After soaking, rinse the plants and rocks with fresh water and let them air dry.
      If you are looking for a less intrusive method of removal that will not disturb the aquarium, you can do so by introducing fish that will eat the pests. Mollies, Paradise fish and Spot (blue) Gouramis are known to favor hydra and can rid an aquarium of them.
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      Chemicals and medicines can also be used to treat hydra; however, do keep in mind that they can be harmful to aquatic life. Copper Sulfate and Potassium Permanganate are two of the most common and safest options in fish only aquariums.
      Also take a look at the following article regarding common medication used in aquariums:
      Image credit: 
      Wikipedia: Hydra oligactis
    • skfadmin
      By skfadmin
      HYDRA Some facts!!!
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      Hydra have a sack shaped body that consists of a mouth /anus combination on the top surrounded by a crown of tentacles that carry an array of stinging cells.
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      Hydra live attached to vegetation, rocks and walls by this "foot" with all its tentacles suspended into the water waiting for it's pray to blunder into them. Small animals that happen to blunder into the tentacles are stung and paralysed.
      within a short time all of the tentacles are wrapped around the victim conflicting many more stings. the victim is then drawn to the mouth and swallowed. Digestion is done over a period of several hours .Any un digested material remaining after this period is then expelled back through the mouth.
      The hydra is then ready to hunt again .
      It takes several hours for their weapons to recharge which it does while digesting it's food. Small aquatic animals like Rotifers, insect larvae, and ( especially) small crustaceans such as daphnia, seed shrimp and water flee, are their main pray.

      Hydra do not always stay in the one spot in the aquarium. they are able to move about in a couple of ways. They are able to secrete a sticky mass under the basal disk and they use this fluid to kind of slide themselves along to a new position. Another way is they detach the basal disk, bend over placing their tentacles on the substrate and then somersaulting re attaching the "foot" further along, they will continue to do this action until they reach their preferred position.
      The third manoeuvre noted is that they are able to produce an air bubble in the basal disk this raises them to the top of the water where they hang suspended waiting for pray.

      Hydra do most of their reproduction in the summer months. Most reproduction is "A" Sexual and involves a process called "Budding" in which a new Hydra develops as a bud on the parent central column . When conditions are right the bud breaks loose and continues life as an individual. These offspring are genetically identical to the parent ( true clones) .
      Under very good conditions hydra may possess several buds at various stages of development. Sexual reproduction is usually confined to the cooler months. Ovaries develop as an oval swelling near the column base. testis form as conical protrusions further up the column the sperm is free floating and can fertilize itself and other hydra. the young develop directly without a larval stage. HYDRA are beautiful but a bit annoying creatures.
      Given their reproductive abilities, their capability for moving around when they choose and the ability to eat pray several times their size. it's clear why hydra are not welcome in freshwater aquariums .
      They are believed to be able to cause harm or kill newly hatched shrimp, and in laboratory conditions they have been proven to eat baby brine shrimp. Adult shrimp are not effected by hydra stings except possibly as an annoyance. The larger Hydra have also been shown to eat small fish fry as large as newly borne guppies . Once hydra are introduced into an aquarium they can be difficult to get rid of them. ( but it's not impossible) If you are lucky to only have a small infestation you should be able to physically remove them, I removed the infestation that I had by wiping the tank sides down with a clean cloth, removed all rocks ,wood, from the tank and scrubbed them, plants I soaked in a light bleach solution for around 10 minutes before rinsing in fresh water and replacing. Another non intrusive way is to add some fish to eat them Gouramis or mollies will do the trick. ( not a good idea if you keep shrimp).
      Heat is another method. ( you have to remove all your livestock to do this) heat your aquarium water to around 40C for about 2 hours. this should kill them, Perform a minimum 50% water change and make sure that the water temp is back to normal before returning your live stock .
      Chemicals that can be used are potassium permanganate, or many of the fish anti fluke medications especially if they contain formalin. WARNING THESE CHEMICALS MAY BE HARMFUL TO SHRIMP, SNAILS, PLANTS and sometimes FISH. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!! Some preventative measures are to inspect all live plants carefully( look for small jelly like substances) soak all plants in an approved solution before adding them to your aquarium. Avoid live foods from local rivers creeks etc. Boil all substrate wood rocks collected from the wild before adding to your tank .
      References used :- Bugguide Version Jan 2009 Information sources Wikipedia. org/wiki/imdra Williams 1980 Pennak 1989 Gooderham & Syrlin 2002 Offwell Woodland & wildlife Trust UK Researcher Wayne Summerhayes Febuary 2013.
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