Jump to content

First Serious Shrimp Tank


Burnz

Recommended Posts

Hello all new member here. Im currently setting up my first shrimp tank since moving back to WA. Had alot of fish tanks and 1 shrimp tank with numerous cherries a few years ago in NSW.

Tank im setting up is 3ft around 130 litres I think. 18kg of ADA amazonia substrate and currently has a Fluval internal filter until the water is cleared up from the damn substrate! Planning on switching to 2 or 3 sponge filters once I get some shrimp.

I will be planting the tank with some type of moss and a few plants yet but im still undecided on which.. and also undecided on lighting. 

Shrimp going in will be chocolate cherries, and ill be setting up a small 1ft tank for some other shrimp.. ill post pics once the water clears up a bit.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to SKF @Burnz

Looking forward to seeing the set up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats the tank at the moment, water has cleared up a bit overnight. Just a few ornaments in there from my old tanks for now. Still no light, been searching the shed for an old one but looks like ill need to bite the bullet and buy one, and ill have to buy a heater aswell when I get some plants.

Should I add plants now or wait until tank is cycled?

20160427_093945.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just checked the pH for the first time since adding ADA Amazonia. PH has gone from 7.8 down to 6.0, i wasnt expecting that much of a change. Hopefully it levels out a bit in the next week or so... Still a few floatys from the substrate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Burnz said:

Still a few floatys from the substrate.

That's what I hate about ADA Amazonia, the floaties.

That's why I swapped to Cal Aqua Labs Black Earth Premium.

Sounds like you are close to a water change with tap water (dechlorinated) to bump up the pH.

 

Have you got a heater in there? Can't see one. 

We are heading into winter, so your tank won't be warm enough for ideal bacteria growth.

Need to keep it at 26 minimum, ideally 28 deg C for quicker cycling. Put a lid on it to maintain trap that heat.

If you let temps and pH drop too much, you will be wondering why your tank is not cycled even after 3 months. Mind you, Amazonia takes a long time to cycle on on its own, you don't want to prolong it any further.

Edited by jayc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh I had no idea bacterial growth depended on temperature I didnt even think of that! I will get a heater in there ASAP. I need to make up a lid, I bought the tank 2nd hand and it didnt come with one.

Got rid of 99% of the floatys. Went with ADA amazonia because reading up it seems it is better for rooting plants than Fluval Stratum, and also lasts longer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last few days ive just been reading, reading and reading the forums for information and I think I have a better idea of what I want to do with my tank..

Filters - I will be going with 2x double sponge filters driven off air pump (one at each end) and a small HOB filter towards the centre for water circulation.

Lighting - Still not sure what to do here, need to research more. A long time ago I dabbled a bit in hydroponics and back then LEDs were just hitting the scene and they were pretty crap grow lights, which is why im hesitant to go LED over fluros because I want to have a planted tank. What do you guys think of LED vs fluros as aquarium lights? Any difference in plant health and growth?

Plants - Will be going with alot of moss and some java ferns I think, with a couple of Anubias. Will have to see what I can get locally when im ready.

I will be stocking the tank with some cherries and ninja shrimp to begin with, then after tank is well established I will be adding some form of CRS

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, Burnz said:

Lighting - Still not sure what to do here, need to research more. A long time ago I dabbled a bit in hydroponics and back then LEDs were just hitting the scene and they were pretty crap grow lights, which is why im hesitant to go LED over fluros because I want to have a planted tank. What do you guys think of LED vs fluros as aquarium lights? Any difference in plant health and growth?

Plants - Will be going with alot of moss and some java ferns I think, with a couple of Anubias. Will have to see what I can get locally when im ready.

I've seen heaps of people running -amazing- planted setups with LEDs rather than fluros.

I get pretty solid java fern, anubias, and moss growth from LEDs in my tanks. And my LEDs are pretty low-end. I recently took all the java moss out of most of them because it was growing too fast, but that's just java moss in general -_- Other mosses seem to do fine too. Subwassertang is also growing heaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Burnz, lighting is a very personal choice.

Fortunately, mosses, ferns, anubias, and subwassertang ... all the popular types of plants for a shrimp tank are all low light plants. That means you can get away with very little light. Whatever you pick, doesn't have to be a super powerful emitting the highest lumens. 

 

Having said that, you will find LEDs are now super capable of growing any high light demand plants. They have come a long way since those first models.

 

Edited by jayc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changed a few things in the tank today... changed the filters to 2x aqua one sponge filters designed for 60 litre tank, bought a couple of small plants and added a small male and a small female bristlenose. Still need to buy a 3ft light to suit.. and make up a lid. Would acrylic or glass be better?

I think I will get 1 maybe 2 more plants, and some mosses and that will be it for the plants. Add a few more hides and thats about it I think? Almost ready for some shrimp!

20160503_155520.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glass for the lid. Acrylic tends to bow after some time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

aot of good progress going on in your tank, i bet the ornaments dont last more then a month after shrimp are in there before you remove them so you can see the shrimp better :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good man.

I recommend you get some moss in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love seeing new tanks come to life. One of the most exciting parts is when it comes to shrimp time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
    • ngoomie
      Hello! I have a tank that currently does not contain shrimp, but does contain neon tetras which I am currently treating for Ich, as well as some bladder snails. Shrimp will be a later addition, likely cherry shrimp but I'm still doing research just to be sure. Initially I'd intended to buy some sort of Ich-fighting product that contains malachite green after doing a decent bit of research on it, most of which indicated that it should be shrimp-safe so I'd be good if I ever needed to use it again once shrimp were actually introduced (though I should note I'm aware shrimp can't get Ich, I'm more wondering in case the tetras could get Ich again, or something else that responds to similar medication). I ended up not being able to find any MG-containing products without either having to travel quite far or wait multiple days for delivery (which I was worried could lead the Ich to be fatal), and ended up picking up 'Top Fin Ick Remedy', a product that contains gentian violet which is a triarylmethane dye like malachite green. The bottle has two slightly differently worded warnings about its use with invertebrates ("not recommended for" and "not safe for" respectively), but when I'd been researching malachite green, I'd also heard of products that contain MG but not any other ingredients that would be harmful to inverts still being branded with warnings that they could be harmful, just as a "just-in-case" since the manufacturer didn't test it on any inverts, and I'm wondering if maybe it could be a similar situation here. I'm having a very very hard time finding information about gentian violet's use in fishkeeping at all though, it seems currently extremely uncommon. What I will say though is that I'm on day 2 of treating my tetras with it, and the bladder snails seem just fine -- in fact today I noticed what looked to be a bladder snail that appeared to be newly hatched (because of its size) that I hadn't seen before that was zipping around the tank without issue. But obviously, shrimp are not snails, and bladder snails are also notoriously hardy little guys, so what I'm seeing right now could easily be totally inapplicable to cherry shrimp. It might even be inapplicable to other species of snails, for all I know. Has anyone else here ever used anything that contains gentian violet in a tank that actually does contain shrimp? Were they okay, or should I make sure to not use it once shrimp are added?
×
×
  • Create New...