Jump to content

Custom Aqua One 620T


rawprawn

Recommended Posts

Picked this tank up locally for 150 bucks.

I'm hoping to keep yellow cherries and royal blue tigers together in it.

001_3.jpg

Don't like the filter in the hood or the lights either, so I'll go a bit custom and go for what I understand to be a low tech, medium/high light planted tank.

I've already got NZ black iron sand, an 800L/hr ebay cannister filter, and some ebay led flood lights.

I'm pretty new with this, but have a big background in technical fabrication.

Please feel very free to advise me.

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all is the lighting hood.

I've got 2x 20W cool white 6500K LED floodlights.

I know this sounds bright, but I've read that with LED lights you need to go by lumens, not watts.

I found several articles stating that for a medium light tank you needed 35-50 lumens/L.

My tank is 130L (and 70cm deep), and I'll probably be around 100-110L with sand, etc in the tank.

So I need 3500-5000 lumens?? Seems a lot.

These lights are rated at 1600-1800 lumens each (120 deg spread), and knowing ebay product ratings they're probably 10-25% less in real life.

So I'm probably looking at anything from 2400 (1600x2-25%) to 3600 (1800x2) lumens.

Hard to tell with ebay stuff, but I found a couple of articles where they praised these lights highly.

I've stripped all the crappy and heavy flouro gear out (weighed a tonne), and 3D printed mounts that put the face of the light down flush with the bottom of the hood. One of the complaints I read more than once was that the flouros being recessed up in the hood cast serious shadows and greatly affected the performance of the lights.

I cut the bottom of a junction box out so it would fit, and so I could solder wires and keep the individual light switches for versatility.

I've got epoxy and silastic drying now, so that's it for tonight.

 

002_2.jpg

 

003_2.jpg

 

004_1.jpg

 

Edited by rawprawn
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following with interest.

I kept my Aquaone filter in place and filled it with ceramic noodles.Then I fed the outlet of my canister filter into the Aquaone filter.

Double the filtration.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, jayc said:

Following with interest.

I kept my Aquaone filter in place and filled it with ceramic noodles.Then I fed the outlet of my canister filter into the Aquaone filter.

Double the filtration.

That's quite a good idea!!

No foam in the basket? Just in the canister filter?

What I mean by that is ceramic noodles only up top?

 

Edited by rawprawn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, rawprawn said:

That's quite a good idea!!

No foam in the basket? Just in the canister filter?

What I mean by that is ceramic noodles only up top?

 

I didnt use any foam. But you can use any combination of filter media you like. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I'm waiting for some epoxy to cure in my light hood, I moved onto the top filter.

I decided to go with jayc's good idea (which really should have been obvious to me) and connect my canister to the top filter.

I really hate the plumbing that comes with cheap ebay canisters, so I made my own in pvc pipe.

 

001_4.jpg

 

002_3.jpg

 

003_3.jpg

 

The white pvc looks a bit agricultural I realize, I'm more into function than form. I have considered painting the down pipe in the same aqua paint I'll use on the back of the glass. That would be perfect but I'm unsure about toxicity.

The intake strainer is from a rural pump shop, and I'll tie a stocking over that. I have a spare, so at water change time I'll just screw the old one off and put on a fresh one.

I'm thinking that putting some of that (very expensive) poly filter mat in the first section under the spray bar might be good, as the water should be pretty clean and I can easily check it for the change of color it does when exposed to chemicals, and then ceramic noddles in the second section.

Does anyone know anything about painted items in the aquarium water? Is it a no no?

Edited by rawprawn
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very pleased with the lights/hood.

Certainly very bright, but seems within reason even when empty.

I put the power lead out the side as it seems they had it running through the filter box, which would make it ridiculously difficult to remove either hood by itself.

 

005.jpg

 

006.jpg

 

007.jpg

Edited by rawprawn
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, rawprawn said:

I'm thinking that putting some of that (very expensive) poly filter mat in the first section under the spray bar

Great idea.

 

Loving the mods so far. It's so neat and tidy.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, jayc said:

Great idea.

 

Loving the mods so far. It's so neat and tidy.

Thank you.

After 25 years working in oil rigs, mines, petroleum plants etc you'd hope I had my stuff right.

But I know little about shrimp, so feel free to set me straight there.

I'm hoping for some advice on a couple of things.

1. Some plants and mosses suited for a low tech, med/high light tank.

I'm interested in putting some plants among the roots of that mangrove wood, some mosses on it and I'd like to have a complete carpet of ground cover if possible without Co2.

Substrate is black NZ iron sand, and I'm looking for a bit more than the old java moss but low maintenance all the same.

2. I'm thinking of painting the down pipe in the same color as I use on the back of the tank.

I'm seeing a lot of people in the US using satin black "Krylon Fusion", which they say is aquarium safe in the water if cured 7-10 days. Any thoughts on that?

I'd really appreciate help with those 2 points as I'm unsure.

Edited by rawprawn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, rawprawn said:

Does anyone know anything about painted items in the aquarium water? Is it a no no?

Many years ago I used Krylon Fusion paint to paint the inside of my sump tank. It is aquarium safe. But it's not easy to find.

Spotlight used to stock Krylon range, but I'm not sure if they still have it. You can check.

The other option, if all else fails to find Krylon, is coat the PVC pipe in aquarium safe silicon, and roll the pipe in black substrate (ADA, BEP, whatever you use). The pipe will be camouflaged if the back glass is also black.

 

Mate, I'm full of ideas. :pow:

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, jayc said:

Many years ago I used Krylon Fusion paint to paint the inside of my sump tank. It is aquarium safe. But it's not easy to find.

Spotlight used to stock Krylon range, but I'm not sure if they still have it. You can check.

The other option, if all else fails to find Krylon, is coat the PVC pipe in aquarium safe silicon, and roll the pipe in black substrate (ADA, BEP, whatever you use). The pipe will be camouflaged if the back glass is also black.

 

Mate, I'm full of ideas. :pow:

Got some. Paid through the nose, but better than dead shrimp.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191786375801?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Any plant suggestions?

 

Edited by rawprawn
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, rawprawn said:

Got some.

Well done, but wtf at that price ! $20 plus $20 shipping !!

Didn't you like my substrate idea? :chicken_cry:

 

Plants:

Fore, foreground - Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'

Foreground - UT ( Utricularia graminifolia )

Midground - Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’. The red will break up all the green between fore and back grounds.

Background - a LARGE bunch of Tonina Belem.

Driftwood - US Fissiden draping off the drift wood.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, jayc said:

Well done, but wtf at that price ! $20 plus $20 shipping !!

Didn't you like my substrate idea? :chicken_cry:

 

Yeah....screwed with no lube on that one.

I'm just super particular and once I'm set on a way I'm going to do something I'm hooked.

Substrate idea is good and thanks, but I've just got a plan in mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, rawprawn said:

Substrate idea is good and thanks, but I've just got a plan in mind.

I was just joking naturally.

I'm sure your plans are just as good. I would have gone the paint route myself.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, jayc said:

I was just joking naturally.

I'm sure your plans are just as good. I would have gone the paint route myself.

Cheers for the plant tips as well.

Just looking at the monte carlo now. Looks like a good thing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, rawprawn said:

monte carlo

If you want a carpet in low tech tank, this is your best option.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did my painting today with difficult to obtain and ludicrously expensive Krylon Fusion in satin black.

Quite happy with the results, but being a second hand tank some imperfections in the glass show up and I wish I'd thought of painting the suction pipe before I glued it in permanently.

Still very nice, and with the dark grey iron sand I feel sure that the lighting will work well and make the colors of the driftwood/plants/shrimp pop.

 

002_4.jpg

 

003_4.jpg

 

004_2.jpg

 

005_1.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good man.

Us fissidens are a nice moss which Jayc mentioned. I also like mini pelia and Christmas moss.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, neo-2FX said:

Brilliant!!

 

Thank you.

It's actually the first time I've gone this way with a tank. I'd normally rely on the color of the wall behind or use a paper backing, but I think this will look much neater.

Here's the filter and chiller:

 

006_1.jpg

 

I wasn't going to use a chiller because the tank's in an aircon room and it will mean that I have to place the tank/stand protruding out of the alcove in the office where I plan to put this tank, but this little Hailea HC100A has struggled on a 4 footer in the Aussie summer, and I recently acquired a second hand HC250A to replace it.

Canister is a 40AUD ebay cheapy, but I've got some decent ceramic noodles and mat to go in it, as well as running it through the top filter as previously mentioned. Should be OK.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, rawprawn said:

as well as running it through the top filter as previously mentioned

What a brilliant idea. I wonder who came up with that?

Painted parts are looking good. The pipe is mostly camouflaged.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, jayc said:

What a brilliant idea. I wonder who came up with that?

Painted parts are looking good. The pipe is mostly camouflaged.

 

Full credit to jayc for the brilliant idea lol!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah. Just kidding. You did ALL the hard work.

If I ever need to mod another Aqua One hood, can I hire your services?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I just watched the video again. With that tank I would take 1 of the sponges and put it in the left compartment (where he put the heater in the vid) and the heater can go in the middle section with the other sponge, so that would work well and be very simple and no extra costs or modification involved. The water level in the back drops either because the pump is set too fast (if it is adjustable) or mostlly just because the sponge directly behind the inlet slots is getting blocked. Somtimes just pressing the sponge insitu at the top will blow some of the gunk back into the tank, but you will probably need to take the sponge out weekly to clean it, though I imagine you would probably do weekly water change/maintenance anyway. The tank in the video is also quite good because the back is covered so that will help with reducing evaporation from the back working part, mine was open/uncovered at the back so evaporation was more of a problem. I freaked out when I saw the level drop in the back the first time, especially as I had a glass type heater in the back! If you only very rarely need a heater then you could just put that in the main part of the tank on those rare occasions to be safer? As you say, you have time to see if you even need a heater but I suspect you won't as indoors will be warmer than the outside temperature overnite, and I have seen vids on youtuube where some Australians keep Neocaridina shrimp outside all year with no heaters in huge tanks or even ponds, and I doubt there is anywhere in the world where the temperatures don't fluctuate between night and day so all creatures must be ok with that (within limits of coarse).  My problem last week was the same only opposite, overnite it dropped to about 13 degrees outside but inside overnite it rose to 28 because the sun had heated the roof etc all day, so I did lose a few shrimps then (but they are Caridina so not as adaptable or tough as cherry shrimp), only babys though strangely? Of coarse, it's your winter now, whereas it is our summer. Do you have A/C in the house for the summer, even Neocaridina won't survive much over 30? I only have a portable room one which requires a tube out of the window hense I couldn't leave it running overnight as it is a ground floor room!
    • DemonCat
      Thanks for the response and interest! I'm planning on ignoring everything about the filter media provided and will do my own thing. But yes, a simple idea to save shrimp is put the filter right next to the intake bit.. I hadn't thought about that and was already thinking about adding mesh... your idea is much better and straightforward.  In regards to heater, where we are in Australia it gets 40 degrees in summer, but we had -7 last week at night.. this morning was a much warmer -3! The heating in the office is a bit whack too... it seems to be boiling hot or freezing cold, so the heater is something i'll just play 'wait and see' with. I don't propose to stock for a while anyway so will have substantial time to monitor the temperature and see if/how/when a heater is needed.  I saw a short youtube video on the water level at the back.. I'm glad I watched it / you told me because if I went in without knowing I'd be freaking out the first time I noticed it. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I had a very similar tank to the petworx one and they are very clean to look at and easy to maintain, but obviously you are losing some volume/floor area for the shrimps to inhabit. You will probably need to work something out so the shrimp don't get through to the back area, especially babies (sponge behind the slots etc) - you may be able to just move part of the sponge to that compartment looking at this video:  I would only get a 25w heater, I learned my lesson when my 50w stuck on and cooked the shrimps in my 35L tank. 25w should be adequate as you have a much warmer climate, in fact do you really even need a heater? One drawback with this type of setup is that the level of water in the back can drop drastically when the sponge starts to get clogged, though this is mainly only a problem with the heater which may break in insuficient water, or the pump in really severe circumstances. You will need to clean the sponges at least weekly.  The level drop in the back can look quite alarming when you first see it happening.  The other makes may also have the same issues? I would have thought nearer $250 as it already has a light and pump, and if you don't need a heater? I tried the 'let the idea fade away', but it keeps returning???
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I am still thinking it is 50/50 at this stage and will see what happens after another month! Th parameters seem to be slowly getting there, when I tested a few days ago, PH 6.5, KH 0-1, GH 6-7, TDS 150. I have around 10 shrimp left (25 were put in a month ago) but we did have a few hot days which ran together last week which killed at least a few, tank water got to 28 overnight, got a/c during the day, but that requires having the window open for the exhaust hose when running so a bit risky to leave it running all night. I may invest in some specific cooling if this works out for longer with shrimps, but we don't get much hot weather in the UK usually? The remaining shrimp seem fine, swimming about and coming out when I add food. I tried shrimp lollies but they aren't bothered with those at all so they seem to be just a good way of gathering snails to remove and keep their numbers down. If most of the remaining shrimp survive another month I will likely try some more, and by then hopefully ALL the parameters will be good and within the acceptable range as only GH seems to be a bit off. If I didn't have the shrimps in the tank I would try another 50% water change, but for now I will just see what happens in the next month with regular weekly water changes and running/parameter testing etc.
    • DemonCat
      Looks very nice! Similar scope to what I'm looking to do so am snooping for inspiration!   After another few weeks, how is everyone going? 
×
×
  • Create New...