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Showing topics in Australatya striolata, Anything Forum Related, Other Invertebrates, Shrimp Tank Setup, Australian Caridina spp., Fish Tanks , General Questions/Discussions, Sulawesi Shrimp, Marine Tanks, Shrimp & Corals, Member Appreciation & Awards, Shrimp Health & Care, Caridina logemanni, Food & Nutrition, Plants & Mosses, Aquascape Discussion, Product Reviews, Algae, Field Trips, Shrimp Related Societies or Forums & Member Meetings, The Tech Den, Neocaridina davidi, Taiwan Bee Shrimp - Caridina mariae x logemanni, Caridina mariae, Shrimp Keepers, Welcome New Members, Other Shrimp Species, Plants, Mosses and Algae, Equipment & DIY, Water Parameters, Australian Sponsors, Other Australian Natives, Other Aquarium Creatures, Fish Keepers, Endlers & Guppies, Betta, Other Tropical Fish, Marine Fish, Catfish & Loaches, Goldfish & Koi, Freshwater Crayfish and Freshwater Snails, images in , articles in Shrimp, Food & Feeding, Equipment, Algae, Care, Grading, SKF Aquatics Help, Pests, DIY, Snails and Substrate and calendar events in SKF Calendar posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. Good solid advice@jayc :-) [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  3. Where is @Foxpuppet and @lodo when you need them?
  4. I think to a degree volume of water and stocking levels relevant to that volume assists in shrimp size. A couple of years ago I chucked a heap of cull cherry shrimp into my 1000L pond and months later when doing some maintenance on the tank found freakishly large cherry shrimp. This pond didn't get lots of special foods like the tanks did, instead might have only had commercial fish food put in once a week. However did/ does have a large lily plant, other weeds, leaves and fruit (mostly icecream bean fruit and leaves) falling into the pond and plenty of bloodworms naturally colonised, along with dragonfly nymphs which predate on the shrimp. I have never seen such large cherry shrimp again and certainly have never produced any of that size in any of my tanks even the 4ft tanks. So even though shrimp maybe able to do quite well in nano and small tanks I often wonder if we do them a disservice by having them in small tanks, in effect stunting them to some degree. revolutionhope I had also heard about dark substrate bringing out the best colour, however I once had some of the darkest glossy red cherry shrimp on pure white sand, with live plants natural timber and fish. Other shrimp have been just as well coloured on natural coloured creek gravel. Less well coloured or have taken longer to show good colour potential have been on a gravel blend of natural and fluro coloured gravels like what most kids will buy for their first tank because they like the pretty colours. In my black cherry tank I am actually getting to the point of trying to decide in which direction do I want to go with the black breeding program. Since I am now getting blue black shrimp. Some of the shrimp are still a nice solid glossy black but have a distinct dark blue undertone. I wish I could get a photo to show the variation between these blue blacks and true blacks. In this same tank I am still having to remove the odd chocolate, very occasional faint yellow and green, recently pale blue and thankfully even less often now wild type. Oh and if possible with your divided breeding programs try to keep the separate tanks a good distance apart since shrimp are good climbers and sneaky escape artists. Where I have my tanks ( all open topped) one of the tanks has higher sides than its neighbouring tank which is lower. So even though the there is a gap between the tanks I am almost certain that shrimp from the higher tank have managed to flip over the side and by more good luck than planning end up in the lower tank. Some have not been so lucky and then I find crispy dried shrimp on the bench. So if tanks where the same height and butted up side by side or even one tank divided there is the potential for shrimp to make escape bids and climb into neighbouring tanks. I have even seen photos of shrimp climbing against the flow of a HOB filter return to get into the yummy gunk inside the filter.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Here are mines. Though, I'm not able to tell their name, as I messed with the tags when I received them. So as not hijack this thread, I have opened one here :
  7. Good one @Tayloss and @KillieOrCory.
  8. Last week
  9. Some of the aquarium dividers are installed and I'm pretty happy with how they are looking. We've used some small PVC tube with a slot cut in the middle to anchor and support the 2mm acrylic sheet as well as using the little plastic clips at the top (they came with the aquariums as supports for the lid). We have left a gap of around 23mm at the bottom and i will layer it up high with some fairly chunky gravel in the middle where the divisions are to allow enough flow to keep WP fairly well matched in both sections. LED controller has been built and we Have also finished 3/4 draining and moving out all of the smaller tanks into the room next door while we install shelving and modify the built in robe. Tanks have been filled back up with fresh remineralised RO and the shrimps seem to have handled the move OK and I haven't detected any spikes in parameters. Some shrimps in my yellow colony seem a little paler than I had thought but I think they'll bounce back alright. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  10. Only read this now, great info. Thanks for your work :)
  11. The first female dropped after about 18 days no sign of any larva which i will assume will be tiny given the short gestation. I have moved the second into an experimental tank but it hasn't had long enough to really establish properly to be successful but they will have a better chance than the main tank.her eggs have changed colour so I'm assuming they are close to hatching.
  12. If you dont have a doberman, bluff when they ask to come in lol
  13. By the way, I am still using your white bread recipe for MWs (including your starter culture) that you posted on Facebook more than a year ago. By far the best recipe hands down. Thanks heaps again.
  14. Sounds like a great suggestion @The Tech Den. That said, not sure on how the backend process works.
  15. Earlier
  16. Ah ! congrats to you and the missus on the new baby.
  17. @inkevnito my pen is an el cheapo, but I use it fairly regularly across 3 different tanks as well as RO water and demineralised water - there has been no significant change to any of these, and de mineralised/RO continue to read at or very close to zero TDS. It appears there has been a 100 odd unit leach of TDS in the initially added water column, but as @jc12 mentioned - it should not be a big deal if I cycle, drop 90% out in PWC, refIll with pure RO and re mineralise in the tank. Thinking out loud, perhaps I should wait a few days to see if there is any further TDS leach before re mineralising. I will hold off any further updates on this one until it's cycled and go back to fiddling over my two nano shrimp tanks and willing my mischlings to breed... I swear my common sense is lost when it comes to aquariums. Thanks yet again to the advice.
  18. Agree! I realised this and want to put together another piece about aquatic plants as well when I get time. This one took long enough as it was but hopefully in the next few weeks :-) humanely euthanising plants is easy - compost them and give them dignity. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  19. good feed lol
  20. Well here it is : Waiting for the tank to cycle and then get my first shrimps :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Fascinating! Yellow + Blue = green. I don't have any green shrimp nor a microscope to play with, but I'm wager they are the same for other Neocaridinas. Would be interesting to see a Cardinia babaulti under the microscope too. These could be different as they don't have blue or yellow counterparts.
  22. a very cool native to keep you can sit and watch them for ages
  23. Any updates?
  24. Update: Most, possibly all, the Macros pictured are likely to be M. tolmerum.
  25. Where did you end up finding some? I know a farmer who buys bulk calcium bentonite and soybean hulls for the horses. Amazing that shrimp and horses share such similar things LOL @Zebra
  26. Berried for sure and with what looks like really small eggs so have to agree with @revolutionhope they are likely to be brackish raised shrimpetes. Couldnt help but think that if you fed them a red coloured food there would be a nice red stripe running through them. Great looking shrimp.
  27. The macrobrachium group of shrimp are characterised by the extreme enlargement of the second pair of pereiopods especially prominent in the males. They will tolerate a wide range of conditions as they are found in water from salty to full fresh but the variants I currently have seem to prefer a more neutral environment ph around 7, Gh 2-3, tds around 100 for fresh water variants temperature can vary greatly as well. Over summer they survived in tanks above 28 degrees for 2 weeks straight. The first Australinese were caught in water that was about 10 degrees, but they seem to prefer it from 20 to 28 degrees. Their natural environment should be considered, as the tropical guys will like warmer water than guys from the south. There are also brackish and salt water variants to be explored at a later date. They will eat most foods from peas, oats to commercial shrimp foods, algae wafers etc. Their natural diet varies depending on species from veg based to meatier diets, so keep this in mind when choosing foods for them. They are an intelligent and very inquisitive shrimp that is generally aggressive by nature, so housing them with other tank mates is risky at best. They will happily catch and eat snails, fish, other shrimp etc. They will regrow claws and limbs fairly quickly if they fight and lose a limb. I have the Australinese up to 5 generations tank bred without too many issues. Occasionally one will get in a bad mood and can easily wipe out everyone else in the tank in a few hours. This happened to me with a colony of Bullatum when a female went off and killed a big male and 2 other females overnight. Pay attention to how you setup the tank, and where possible a backup colony is helpful if you want to breed these guys. This guy was toppled as Alpha and lost his long arms; they are starting to regrow after a couple of days. The best setup will give them plenty of personal space with caves to hide in and plants to perch on. Try to break up the line of sight so they can keep away from each other to reduce fights and death, especially after moulting. They like to dig to look for food, so some sandy areas as well as finer gravel will keep them happy. Shrimp soil probably wouldn’t be great with them because of the digging. When selecting a tank keep in mind the size of the adults as they can vary from the very small, like Latidactylus where the adults reach about 5cm total length, to the Rosenbergi & Spinipes that can reach 45cm. They will become stressed if another shrimp comes within claw reach so a minimum of 2-3 body lengths separation per shrimp of floor space is essential to reduce aggression. Some variants are more nocturnal and only come out when the tank isn’t lit. The Bullatum are a good example of this, if they have plenty of cover they will only come out at night. Others, like the Australinese, are more outgoing and rarely hide. Each variant seems to have different sized and shaped claws depending on their preferred food source, from a smaller delicate claw in the Tolmerum: To the larger crushing claws of the Australinese: Or the ridiculously oversized claw of the Jardini: Or a long set of tweezers on the Bullatum: As long as you can keep the adults happy, breeding isn’t difficult. In the ones that have live young, mating occurs the same as other shrimp around the time of moulting. Gestation varies, but usually takes around 35-40 days. The live born young grow very fast if they have a good supply of food. The parents generally leave the bubs alone but can be removed if you want to ensure maximum survival. The young are generally clear with some patterning to allow them to hide from predators. The babies will eat a varied diet, the same as adults. They will require finer foods for a few weeks until they can tackle more normal foods. Australinese bub: Australinese bub: Berried Tolmerum (larval eggs): Berried Australinese (normal eggs): Berried Jardini (normal eggs): Jardini Bub: Jardini Bub: Baby Spinipes one of the more interesting bubs I have: A few of the variants, like the Spinipes, are larval breeders, so require more specialist care to raise the young through the stages from larvae to actual shrimp. This can be done similar to raising our other larval breeding natives like riffle shrimp (Australataya Striolata), if you want a challenge. Overall they are a very rewarding shrimp to keep if you have the space for them. They reward you with their antics, and being able to observe all the things you wish you could see the little guys doing is very educational. I have kept these guys now for nearly 3 years and gone from 1 variant to 5; and looking for more to study, as each type is similar in the way they look, but they all are very different in behaviour. Some hide, some are very outgoing, and others are constantly cranky while their mate is very laidback. They are almost human in the way that each has its own personality, but each is a closet serial killer just waiting for the right time to go off. Document Link: Keeping Macrobrachium in Aquariums.docx View full article
  28. Very nice @Shrimp>Wife. BTW, has your wife seen your forum name yet? Anyway ... would love to see more pics of this when you have it all hooked up to the chiller, Eheim and tubes. A drawing wouldn't be a bad idea either.
  29. From supplier: View full article
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