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Showing topics in Australatya striolata, Anything Forum Related, Other Invertebrates, Shrimp Tank Setup, Australian Caridina spp., Fish Tanks , General Questions/Discussions, Sulawesi Shrimp, Marine Tanks, Shrimp & Corals, Member Appreciation & Awards, Shrimp Health & Care, Caridina logemanni, Food & Nutrition, Plants & Mosses, Aquascape Discussion, Product Reviews, Algae, Field Trips, Shrimp Related Societies or Forums & Member Meetings, The Tech Den, Neocaridina davidi, Taiwan Bee Shrimp - Caridina mariae x logemanni, Caridina mariae, Shrimp Keepers, Welcome New Members, Other Shrimp Species, Plants, Mosses and Algae, Equipment & DIY, Water Parameters, Australian Sponsors, Other Australian Natives, Other Aquarium Creatures, Newbreed Aquatics, Fish Keepers, Endlers & Guppies, Betta, Other Tropical Fish, Marine Fish, Catfish & Loaches, Goldfish & Koi, Freshwater Crayfish and Freshwater Snails, images in , articles in Shrimp, Food & Feeding, Equipment, Algae, Care, Grading, SKF Aquatics Help, Pests, DIY, Snails and Substrate and calendar events in SKF Calendar posted in the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Cheers thanks heaps if you know what it is found a very small amount in one location leaves are approximately 5 to 7 mil wide/round in aquarium fully emersed when found was half emmersed half out of water and leaves were 9 to 12 mil wide/round but I just love the clover like appearance having some Irish blood in me lol
  3. Today
  4. Trying to get pics of the riffles feeding Ye old iPad doesn't take the best pics My planted nano will post progress pics to ๐Ÿ˜€ Me favourite male stud crs ๐Ÿ˜€โ™ฅ๏ธ๐Ÿ˜€โ™ฅ๏ธ๐Ÿ˜€โ™ฅ๏ธ
  5. Beautiful shrimp.
  6. I didnt have any babies going through the fine mesh i used but i had adults and sub_adults who managed to go from one section to another even though i had a glass cover resting on the sides, the front and the dividers. The only small gap was at the back for the airline.
  7. You might find this topic an interesting read Sponge filters are great for shrimp tanks especially the ones with media chambers for reasons stated above from jayc and because the shrimp feed off of the sponge. I personally find them a bit of a pain to maintain and in future would probably stick to cannister. I also get really nervous shoving my hands in the tank to take out the sponges to clean as I'm afraid of losing shrimplets or introducing some nasty chemicals, from my hands, unintentionally.
  8. Yesterday
  9. journal

    More arrived today :) Sooo beautiful!
  10. HI Thanks for your reply ๐Ÿ˜€ Yeah the kuhlui loach is going back to the LFS tomorrow Then it will be a shrimp only tank..I'll keep it that way in the future Regards Roscoe
  11. Thanks, l will pick one and let you know [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
  12. Last week
  13. Not sure of the species love the soldier style way they run around the tank there a funny creature and much more active than cute crs and the other "pretty shrimp" going around and yes i would say these ones are a common one as I wasn't up in the mountains where things get a bit more specialized like the beautiful blue freshwater crayfish from the goldcoast hinterland I will try get some pics for you soon the misses is just getting the Nikon D5100 in action atm ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜†
  14. I have been using the new formula since late last year in my room. Once it's cycled it's great. It does have a very strong smell I must say. I used it in 2 tanks in my lounge room and hubby kept asking what the strong smell was - it didn't matter when I only used it in the shrimp room because the door was kept closed so he didn't notice it! I take my first reading on day 3 now. The new benibachi can take a long time to cycle compared to the old one. This wasn't just 1 tank I have put the new one into 13 tanks - they were all mature tanks , I basically just replaced the substrate and put everything except the shrimp straight back into the tanks. The canisters and sponges were mature and I use about half of my old water. It's not a management issue it's definitely the new formula. I used to love the fact that with the old formula it took no longer than 3 days before I could put the shrimp back in, especially when you consider the number of shrimp I keep/ kept . I could change my whole room in a matter of 2 weeks but now I have to do a couple of tanks at a time . I don't use the bacteria products so much just Dr Tim's Pro biotics and Seachem stability - I didn't even use them before when it only took such a short time but now I like to use these 2 to help it along. I still prefer the benibachi despite the longer cycle. I have used ADA Malaysia, Elos and Fluval Stratum - they all have a long cycle time too.
  15. From the various topics, here on SKF Aquatics, you can see that there is a wealth of food options available for your fish. From flakes to pellets, wafers to granules, you wonโ€™t be short of variety and options. While these processed foods may be inexpensive and convenient, if you want to ensure your fish live the healthiest and longest life possible, you are going to want to limit the amount of processed foods and instead, feed them a diet that is supplemented with live foods. Live fish food offers the highest amount of vital nutrients for your fish, and as such, will allow them to thrive. However, if you have never fed your fish live food before, you may not know what to look for or where to begin. Hereโ€™s a look at the different types of live fish food options and their culturing. Brine Shrimp Brine shrimp that have just hatched are highly nutritious for fry and small fish. The majority of aquarium fish will also feed on adult brine shrimp. The best way to attain live brine shrimp is to grow and hatch them yourself. You can purchase eggs online or at your local pet supply store. To hatch the eggs, place them in a plastic bottle filled with clean water and attach an air pump to it. Once the eggs have hatched, siphon the shrimp out and place them in your tank. Bloodworms Bloodworms are actually the larvae of flies, and they are highly nutritious for aquarium fish. To procure blood worms, visit ponds, lakes or any stagnant water where flies can be found and you should be able to find bloodworm larvae attached to plants. Flies mate in the air and drop their eggs into water. Collect the bloodworm larvae in a tank or plastic containers filled with organic matter, such as soil and dry leaves and some water. Once the bloodworms grow, collect them after dark, as this is when they are the most active, and feed them to your fish. Daphnia Daphnia are commonly called water fleas. These small crustaceans are also a great source of food for fry. They seem to be a little hard to source in Australia but some aquatic hobbyists opt to catch and breed them themselves. You can culture them by placing algae scrapings from your aquarium into their water, or by adding plankton or even powdered milk to the water. Some pet stores sell live fish food but it is usually easier, less expensive and more satisfying to raise live food yourself. Additionally, by raising the food yourself, you will have a constant supply on hand for feeding. By feeding your fish live food, you can ensure that they are receiving the vital nutrients that they need to thrive. Providing your fish with live food can be very rewarding for both you and your fish. If you are interested in learning more about culturing live fish food, there is plenty of literature available that will provide you with detailed information. Check out this topic for example: If you are passionate about your aquarium and want your fish to thrive, you should seriously consider culturing your own live fish food. References Photo Credit: Merv Hall (@Madmerv) via Flickr with permission Photo Credit: ้˜ฟ้ถด Flickr via cc Photo Credit: dullhunk Flickr via cc
  16. I disagree on one point - I believe it is better to rely on TDS instead of GH for two reasons: (1) We don't know what the actual GH of the water is in wild zeb habitats. Whenever I've measured GH in wild zeb habitats, it has always been less than one drop = less than 10 ppm. There is no test kit that I'm aware of that has any higher resolution. In a chemical test kit, such as API, you might be able to use more water in the test tube (e.g. 20 mL) but when I've tried it the colour change was too difficult to see. Hence trying to monitor GH in an aquarium setting is not viable using chemical test kits. (2) You can get a reliable measure of TDS using a TDS meter to very low values. TDS is consistently low in wild zeb habitats (typically less than 20ppm, and often in single digits), hence GH is going to be very low regardless. I've found that keeping an eye on TDS is a good way to monitor water parameters in the tank, along with water changes using very small amounts of shrimp salts to have some minerals available for the shrimp.
  17. Example of the improved in-forum link embeds. Current: New:
  18. journal

    I've done a hybrid of the 2 recently, so it's individual sections run off sponge filters but it's all 1 body of water, like water filters through the substrate under a gap in each divider and I only need 1 heater across the 4 sections. It was a little complicated but worth it in the end. has pros and cons though like all designs. For example all the tds is the same, but there's a delay between each section. you can cut out the crossmembers cause your dividers will give the tank a lot more support anyway.
  19. The following limited quantities now remaining: Small x 1 Medium x 2 X-Large x 1 XX-Large x 2 Once these are gone, they are gone so don't miss out. https://skfaquatics.com/forum/store/category/2-skf-merchandise/
  20. I found the answer to why my shrimp were swimming in this pattern, and it was the current in the tank. As the Amazon Sword and the Jungle Val grew bigger, I couldnโ€™t easily see the large mussel shell that I use as their food bowl. I decided to shift them about some since I like to watch them eating their pellets while I have my morning coffee. Even though I only moved the sword plant and the shell, the plantโ€™s larger leaves were then diffusing the water flow into more random eddies as I had originally wanted from my placement of plants. For the past 3 days since I moved the sword plant, they are no longer swimming in circles. There still seems to be about half of them swimming about while the others rest and/or feed, but the active ones are now going from place to place randomly rather than their prior synchronized swimming. As the Jungle Val had grown larger, it was beginning to alter the current some as I had hoped. The plant sprigs I had put in the tank initially were small runners I had clipped from plants in my community fish tank. They have now grown from little things at the bottom, to now have leaves that reach the to and trail in the surface current as I had hoped. Their movement in the currents had altered it enough that I was already noticing that fewer of the shrimp were circling the tank, and with the movement of the sword plant, its larger leaves in the center of the tank were enough to completely disrupt the prior water current. The water in the tank still has the gentle overall flow that circulates along the top, down one end, and then back along the bottom, but its extremely gentle now and dispersed across the entire top and bottom rather than being mostly a stripe along the top and bottom. It was odd to realize that the shrimp were swimming in a pattern analogous to a hamster running laps around its wheel rather than running on the wheel.
  21. Nothing in the system log files to indicate what happened and the fact that the newsletter topic was only created once, due to the way the workflow works, removes the forum software from the equation. Might be just one of those system glitches but I've disabled the auto send and will manually send the next few just to be sure.
  22. in the mean time, you could try mixing a solution of fine powder in water. Just add enough to tint the water in the tank with the larvae green. When the water clears, add more. For powder, you can try spirulina and/or other microalgae, or powdered egg, or yeast. Just be careful not to overfeed. Survival rates on these dry foods arent as good as live food, but some survival is better than none.
  23. Thanks @NoGi.
  24. Thank you ๐Ÿ˜Š
  25. @ineke has given some great advice here. If you're just after a male or two and in australia I may be able to help you out. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  26. Very nice. Didn't know Babaultis were in the country.
  27. Looks to be US based though so no good for us aussies. May help out our OS members though.
  28. Just a suggestion if anyone wants to get rid of snails in there tnk add one cheap loach I use pakistani however if you have shrimp in there you will need to remove them first they will eat all your babies too ๐Ÿ˜จ๐Ÿ˜จ๐Ÿ˜จ from my experience they eat all the baby snails first and then work on the larger ones when the get hungry enough Ps snails are a natural food of loaches cheers Dan.
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