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  1. Yesterday
  2. sdlTBfanUK

    New shrimpkeeper (parameters check)

    I'm probably the wrong one to answer this???? Do as JayC stated and only use half dose every 2 days of the fluval cycle. I believe you only need to do a water change if the ammonia goes too high (so remove some ammonia)! I imagine that that product does add ammonia as that is the start of the cycle? The other reason for doing a water change is if the PH drops too low (below 6.5ish) but I doubt this is likely with your high PH reading, at this point anyway! Soil substrates usually lower/buffer the PH but I assume you are using sand or gravel, which is usual with cherry shrimp? The Indian almond leaves and driftwood should very slowly reduce the PH, though the driftwood isn't yet in the tank of coarse! Hopefully the tank will have already cycled by the time the driftwood is ready to go in the tank anyway. Simon
  3. Hey Brando, How long has the tank been set up? You said you have had shrimp for 2 days, dosed fluval cycle 3 days before that... Sometimes people can get away with using those products for fish, but it’s not good for shrimp. They don’t produce much ammonia, but they like an ‘aged’ tank. This means it has lots of tiny little creatures, absolutely microscopic, that the shrimp can eat. Along with those an aged tank will have lots of ‘biofilm’ which is what it sounds like - a biological film, and shrimp love to eat it! A shrimp’s diet consist primarily of these micro fauna, biofilm and algaes. And a 5 day old tank will barely have any of those. Since you have already got shrimp in it though, I’ll give you advice for what to do now. If the shrimp have no fishy friends they will frolick around, swimming and diving as you have noticed. This is good, it means they feel safe. Your parameters are okay for Bloody Mary shrimp, not perfect but alright. Can you test tds or KH and Gh? Your ammonia and nitrate are a bit high, should always be 0. This is another thing that would be different if you had waited properly. In terms of ph you may want to reduce that. Temp is fine, maybe a little high, aim for mid 70s if using a heater. Can we see a photo of the tank? Thanks for joining the forum Brando, looking forward to seeing your tank improve and mature. post note: sorry if I came off as a little abrasive, that wasn’t intended. Just trying to be clear.
  4. Last week
  5. jayc

    flow accelerators

    If the shrimp can get into the blades / impeller, then they won't be safe. Especially the small ones. Shrimp seem to love going all over the tank in search of biofilm to eat, they will definitely explore right next to the wave maker/flow accelerator. There is a big risk of them getting sucked in. Besides, shrimps tend to like calm waters rather than fast flowing rapids.
  6. sdlTBfanUK

    Lowering TDS Affordably?

    I wouldn't use it passed 006 as the filter isn't then working properly and has absorbed as much as is recommended to be considered zerowater. The filters are cheap enough and easy to replace so it really is a false economy to go beyond that, and the only way you will find out at what level above that is safe will be when you get dead shrimps - it's not worth the gamble in my view! Simon
  7. I see that the two water levels are not the same, which means the pipe has air in it
  8. MWShrimp

    Newbreed Rack 2.0

    What pump did you use in your sump
  9. Chiquarius

    Incubating Nerite Snail Eggs

    Thanks sdiTBfan, I’m setting up a one gallon tank for the nerites with my daughter. We’re going to slowly add a bit of reef salt each week and monitor gravity levels. We’ll see if they breed and hatch. if they do, I hope the First Bites fish food will work for them. I’ve read the snail larvae like fish food and especially Artemis/diatoms, things baby fish like. I’m a little worried because I saw copper as one of the nutrients. Perhaps too negligent an amount for damage, but I don’t think I should be feeding any copper to snails! If anybody know I’d any great snail larvae food, please let me know.
  10. Steensj2004

    Aquamaxx 17.1 Gallon Caridina Tank Build

    Oh, I do have some people/ friends wanting to buy, but I can’t with a clear conscience sell/trade until I’m sure they are 100% healthy. Also, I need to rebuild the population first. I don’t mind any color babies. I know I’ll get a broad mix, but I don’t care. I’m not looking for a pure line, anyway. I have no plans to change the treatment regimen at this point, aka add any new treatments. As far as the Galaxy Rasboras, it won’t HURT to get some. Yours might act differently than mine. And if the population is growing and you have good hiding places, you should be ok. It doesn’t take long for the babies to be too big for them to consume.
  11. nshin3023

    Is my crayfish male or female?

    Nah i posted it on reddit 4 people were able to tell me it was a female, educate yourself then comment please Thank you so much! 🙂 i posted it on reddit also and I got much more clear of an answer there!
  12. I still have CRS, red wine, panda, red bolts and black/red galaxy Pinto in the same tank, including 3 crabs, I added another 3, but the larger ones pulled all it's legs off and died. I'm considering getting a another tank 25L, but first a new table or stand for the tank.
  13. kms

    Baby shrimps

    At the time, those babies grown and had babies, those babies also had their babies, during that time, I did not add bacter AE, I never knew what it was, and I was only a beginner, @sdlTBfanUKhelped alot along with @jayc oh, had average 20 babies for each mother shrimp.
  14. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp, Any Females?

    I am more of a give a plant a go and it either lives or not, though I don't think anything has died off thus far! I don't know what plants are available to you but they are a personal choice for you to make so just see what there is? I wouldn't use CO2 but if you do decide to use the Flourish excel I would do it slowly starting with half dose etc! I have had algae before with new tanks but it has just cleared up with time on it's own, I guess when the whole system has sorted/balanced itself out! Simon
  15. sdlTBfanUK

    20-30 gallon native community tank idea

    Did you get a friend for the solo molly you had, and are the native shrimps still doing well? You are very lucky to have so much native stuff for your tanks, we don't have anything here I can think of! I assume you won't need a heater if they live happily outside where you are, or a light unless the tank will be away from windows. It would probably still need a filter though as it is a closed system? Most crabs need to be able to get out of the water occasionally and are great escape artists so probably best keep away from them, and they would almost certainly attack fish or shrimp as well. It sounds like a fun project. Hopefully some-one with knowledge of your location can give you some advice? I don't know whether it is as easy as just foraging everything locally, but look forward to hearing others views who have tried it maybe? I guess water changes would be really easy if you are using local products? I used to collect leaves from the lake to put in the tank but don't do that anymore as you never know what is hitching a ride and I ended up with waterlouse om the fish tank, yuck! I did keep a newt I caught 'when I was lad' for a while but they are protected species here now, there are some in one of the ponds though! Simon
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    Baby Nerite snail?

    It looks like a snail, but to me it looks like a common pond snail so it probably came on some moss or plants (maybe as an egg)? The picture is a bit blurry to be totally positive! Simon
  17. Earlier
  18. Thanks Grubs, I had been thinking paratya could be pretty easy, so if I end up failing with one of the species (DRN or chameleons) I'll try out the glass shrimp. Also will make sure I feed protein. As we have a barramundi in the fishroom he eats frozen pilchards - I'm sure I could just chuck in a chunk for them once every couple of weeks. What params do you keep yours in? (Paratya and chameleons, and DRN if you keep them as well pls). Robbie, which species were you thinking about for that method? While I can't get water from Parramata river (as I'm in Melbourne, Vic) I do have a few local rivers that I can collect water from pretty easily. Paratya live in most of these as well, so it should be pretty safe water.
  19. beanbag

    New setup - active substrate question

    good to know
  20. Understanding toxicity impacts between pH level and Ammonia. How does pH affect the toxicity of ammonia? Table 1 - the Nitrification and Ammonification process. The Ammonia reading you get from test kits is actually the sum of Total Ammonia - which is made up of Ammonia NH3 + Ammonium NH4. At low levels of pH (lower than 6.0), ammonification occurs. Remember, pH is an inverse count of Hydrogen (H). At low pH, you have more Hydrogen. At high pH, you have less. At these low levels of pH (high acidity), the ammonia NH3 'absorbs' (for lack of a better word), an extra Hydrogen ion -> becoming NH4 or ammonium. The reason Ammonium is less toxic to fish and shrimp is because NH4 with that added Hydrogen H ion is now less permeable to the gills of fish & shrimp. NH4 is also excreted across the gills via a carrier mediated process in exchange for sodium Na+. Ammonia toxicity is also influenced by temperature: The lower the temperature the less toxic it becomes. Or to put it another way - NH3 toxicity increases with temperature and pH. Percent NH3 of total ammonia Temp pH 6.5 pH 7.0 pH 7.5 pH 8.0 pH 8.5 20C / 68F 0.13 0.40 1.24 8.82 11.2 25C / 77F 0.18 0.57 1.77 5.38 15.3 28C / 82F 0.22 0.70 2.17 6.56 18.2 30C / 86F 0.26 0.80 2.48 7.46 20.3 Table 2. Un-ionized NH3 as a percent of total ammonia (by temperature and pH). Assuming a temp of 28C and a pH of 7.0 - if 5ppm of ammonia is present this results in only .03 ppm ammonia. However, in a Tanganyikan Cichlids tank with a pH of 9.0, that has a Total Ammonia of 5 ppm, your ammonia level is 2.06 ppm! This now become toxic for the fish. But, at a pH of 6.0, and 10 ppm of Total Ammonia, the ammonia is only .007 ppm. Even though we have MORE ammonia. So be cautious when performing water changes in a low pH tank, as the low pH has an adverse affect on the nitrifying bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite. Because of the acidity these bacteria populations can drop so low that any change in alkalinity can cause the Total Ammonia reading to rise quickly. While the pH stays low the Total Ammonia reading is nearly all ammonium, but if you do a water change or add an alkalinity buffer to the system, the ammonium can be quickly converted to ammonia, potentially causing ammonia poisoning. It is good to note here that, as per the very top picture (table1) ... nitrifying bacteria that convert ammonia NH3 to Nitrate (NO3) does NOT convert Ammonium NH4 to a less toxic form. The bacteria isn't present in sufficient amounts in such low pH environments to process it. Ammonium NH4 is ever present in a low pH tank that has living creatures in it. NH4 is in there ready to be converted into NH3 at the first sign of added alkalinity during water changes. Hence, why we always tell you to match water parameters and add it into the tank slowly (drip it in if you can), don't dump in buckets of new water all at once. So in summary, the combination of low pH (<6) and cool temperatures that the shrimp live in can mean that high ammonia levels are not toxic to them. But be careful !!! Any change in the pH buffer that increases alkalinity will cause the toxic ammonia to immediately convert from NH4 to NH3. There you go. Hopefully that is a more precise explanation to aid your understanding. The ideal spot to be is just above 6.1 to 6.5, where bacteria still function, and ammonia is less toxic. Along with the cool temperatures some shrimp (or fish) live in, is the best environment to be in to minimise ammonia poisoning. I wonder how many times our shrimp die in hot temps, (say due to hot weather ... maybe even a broken heater) not because of the heat, but because our low pH tanks have not enough functioning bacteria to cope with the sudden change in toxic NH3 ammonia due to the rise in temps??? Food for thought.
  21. kookyxogirl

    Would like to try shrimp Keeping.

    Thank you for your help[emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Crabby

    My 110 L Community Tank

    Ah okay, thanks. I've heard in some youtube videos that bamboo shrimp and blue wood shrimp can sometimes catch fry in their little fans, and eat them, but I guess that's probably a very uncommon occurance. In terms of shrimp, you may have seen my recent post about breeding some - I think that's probably what I'll go with in this tank if I can successfully breed them and increase the hardness and pH in the tank. I might try out some crystals in the meantime... but probably not.
  23. jayc

    My new 5 Gallon

    It might not skyrocket up in a short timeframe, but it will continue to buffer your water towards alkaline. Whenever the water drops in pH (acid), it is this acid that dissolves the coral slightly releasing calcium which raises the GH, KH and pH. Slight chemistry lesson. 😅
  24. Steensj2004

    Here we go again!

    At least you’re dripping. I’m part of a Facebook group where people regularly temp acclimate new shrimp, only.
  25. jayc

    safe phophate levels

    That doesn't have phosphorus either, not enough to raise it by that much. The only other source is dead plant material or rotting food particles settled either in the substrate or within the filter. Clean out half your filter sponges and "try" to gravel vacuum as much as possible. I noted that you have a heavily planted tank, and gravel vac can be hard without disturbing the plants.
  26. jayc

    Moringa Leaves

    We don't get this plant here in Australia, at least that I know of. Shrimps will eat almost anything. If you can get the Moringa flower, that can be fed too, fresh. In fact you can feed most edible flowers to shrimps. Looking up the nutritional content of the moringa leaves ... Minerals Quantity Calcium 185 mg Iron 4.00 mg Magnesium 147 mg Manganese 0.36 mg Phosphorus 112 mg Potassium 337 mg Sodium 9 mg Zinc 0.6 mg It's not too bad for calcium and magnesium. It's also a good source of potassium and iron.
  27. Blazepelt

    10 gallon tank update!!!

    Yeah I don’t think they’re all holding eggs but it would be cool if they did.
  28. I use the supplied spoon and only a tiny bit, something like about 1g every 2-3 days, and just sprinkle it on the water surface, but since I only have a 12 inch tank, it can reach all area, my shrimps has grown a lot recently, two shrimps also have berries. Since I used the Bacter AE, its the first time my leave at the back look like this.
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