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  2. sdlTBfanUK

    Maybe I have bacterial infection this time?

    Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
  3. jayc

    Help with PRL Genetics

    If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony.
  4. sdlTBfanUK

    Identify illness

    Thanks for taking the time to do the update and photo. Very pleased to hear it is now going so well. Different plants have different requirements so you need to check they will thrive/survive with the setup, light requirement/co2 etc or just get more of what you have, there are various Anubias if you want some variety. The number of shrimp shouldn't affect what plants do well! Maybe just get one plant at 6 month intervals and have another go, things change in time and you don't need many in a small tank, and the ones you already have will grow over time as well. Good to hear you got rid of the scuds, I did the same, manual removal when I had them, but I caught it quite quickly and only had substrate in the tank!
  5. sdlTBfanUK

    Bottled bacteria?

    Those are good clear photos and pretty shrimp. I am not very up to date with the newer patterns but those don't fully look like a pattern I recognise. The first one could be a low grade boa and the metallic colour is fantastic and the second photo I don't really know what you would say that is, but they are great and it is much nicer to have a variety rather than a tank full of all looking the same, unless you are doing some form of breeding programme for a specific grade or competition etc.
  6. Subtlefly

    72 litre 90 F shallow build

    Science fish has the water results 25/11/23 PH 7.4 Ammonia 0.0 Nitrite 0.0 Nitrate 10 ppm Hardness 70 Carb Hardness 3 Thanks all and have a great day
  7. Those are some great shrimp and the tank look awesome! The tiger shrimp are between neocaridina and caridina when it come to ease and toughness. They should be fine in the neocaridina tank until you are ready to transfer them to their new home. You may need to drip acclimate them when transferring them if the water parameters of the 2 tanks are different and I would just transfer a couple to start just to check as it hasn't been running for long. Also make sure you have finished with the additives/chemicals (especially ammonia) you are using before adding any shrimps, apart from bacter ae which is ok as I use regularly anyway and the tank is set up and running as it will be regularly, light time etc.. Being a small tank anyway you don't want to risk throwing the balance out by adding too many shrimps in one go at the very start. You may want to decide on one or other of the filters as you don't need 2 and are making extra work for yourself, but if you decide to remove 1, leave the sponge in the tank for a few weeks for the bacteria balance not to crash etc. From the way you have set it up the tank probably is cycled but there won't be much for the shrimp to graze on yet (another good reason to just do a couple for now). Be very cautious about using plant fertilizers, I know you don't have soil substrate, but I would try NO ferts from the start as the shrimp waste etc will be a source of fert. If you later find you do need fertilizer then be VERY cautious and use as little as you can get away with, but I suspect you snouldn't need any when you have the tank with enough shrimps in it. Aside from that you don't want the plants to grow quickly anyway in a small aquarium as that just makes a lot more work and disturbance. When dosing bacter ae (or any powder, inc food) I use a wood matchstick or similar, dip that quickly half a cm or cm in the water, then put it into the bacter ae, shake excess off and then swirl the matchstick in the tank, this way you don't get too much in the tank and it gets spread around more, and is just the easiest way all round. I would add 2 or 3 shrimps and if all goes ok for a week then transfer the remainder? Maybe do a 50%+ water change first because of all the stuff you have been using to get everything started? Good luck and i'll keep my fingers crossed!
  8. jayc

    Tiny bugs inside shrimp molt shell

    @beanbag, Anything that is likely shrimp safe is probably not going to harm these "Shell bugs" either. Have you tried anything that is not safe for shrimps, but in super low doses? That might kill the shell bugs but not the shrimp. Here are some meds, USE WITH CAUTION and only in a hospital tank for experimentation of this specific case, namely, to find something that will kill "Shell Bugs". Trichlorfon/Dylox is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches. Malachite Green - has some use in controlling protozoan parasites. Might work in this case too. Formalin - targets similar parasites like MG above. Often used in combination with MG. Copper sulfate products - like Cupramine. For treatment of freshwater and marine ich (Cryptocaryon), Oodinium, external parasites, fungus, shimmy, and even algae (especially in ponds). Kordon's Fish Therapy Bath - use of citrus oils (oils include citrus, neem, and lavender oils) to treat termites, fleas, etc. Lavender Oil also has repellent abilities. Neem oil is reported to be effective as an insecticide as well as some anti-inflammation properties, anti-fungal and limited anti-bacterial. A lot of meds target bacterial symptoms, so I have avoided listing them above. Good luck, and remember - Don't treat the main tank with this. Only use these meds in a hospital tank.
  9. Everything is going well so far. Tank was scrubbed down with hydrogen peroxide 3% and then rinse throughly with a house . Filters were left in tap water for several hours Tank is currently cycling since the 1st . I'm shower all 3 ammonia/Nitrites and Nitrates which is confusing as its only been cycling a week and a bit . I'm looking tonget wome galaxy fishbones this time as I have seen them in person and are really interesting . Same parameters as caridina and there is a breeder near me .
  10. jayc

    Cycling a new tank

    How many hours is your light on for? 6 hours is probably enough especially if you say you have an upgraded light. KH can drop, as my fellow Moderator has said, from plant substrates. But KH can also drop as a natural process of plant utilising bicarbonates as it's carbon source.
  11. sdlTBfanUK

    PH for CRS

    Welcome to the forum, I hoe you find all the information you want and enjoy your time on here! Ph 6.2 for CRS is perfect. When you get the shrimp you should acclimate them slowly, using a drip method is usual/advised.
  12. It does take a lot of dedication to raise the baby betta . I do think the Betta eat the baby shrimp although I watch my boy and the shrimp are too fast for him. maybe it’s his very long fins. I notice he takes his time to zero in on the mosquito larvae plus the shrimp in his tank are a bit skittish - in my other tanks the shrimp won’t even get out of my way when I’m cleaning their tank but the neos flee the minute I start cleaning- I only get their feeding dish out to to clean left over food or to clean their filters -the caridinas seem much quieter in general. 🙂
  13. sdlTBfanUK

    Help! What happened to my shrimp?

    Welcome to the forum and hopefully you will enjoy your time here! The KH (1) is way too low if these are red cherry shrimp so it may have been a molt issue, I see GH is 8. The second picture does look like the shrimp is swollen and trying to burst out of its shell. How many shrimp have you got? How many have died? How long have you had them? Are those 2 photos of the same shrimp? As much information you can give will be helpful! In the meantime you may want to go through the below thread;
  14. Welcome to the forum and I hope you enjoy your time on here! I have bought shrimp off ebay in the past and they do usually add a couple as they expect a few to die from the transport ordeal. Sexing them is quite difficult until they are sexually mature, so it will depend upon how old they are? Hopefully the female with eggs is carrying fertilised eggs as that will boost your colony soon. The second picture with the lovely colour is probably a female (I think the second shell looks round). There is a bit too much reflection on the glass to even give the first picture any reliable 'guess', but it could be a male if it is of adult size, I can't see a 'saddle' or the circular shell on the side either, but that may be due to the reflection! Try watching this video as it may help you decide, IF the shrimp are old enough, as younger shrimp look the same so you cannot tell. Cherry (neocaridina) shrimp reach maturity at around 3-4 months so you shouldn't have to wait very long if they are too young to tell at the moment? Hopefully the egg laden female will have shrimplets soon, the eggs start very yellow (yolk, with a black dot if you can see it will be the eye) and should turn grey as the yolk is used up and that is usually how you can tell whether the shrimplets will hatch soon?
  15. sdlTBfanUK

    gh/tds question

    GH6 would be 107.4 and the GH only shows as complete numbers, 1.2.3.4. etc so it isn't going to be that accurate that you are likely to get both numbers dead on. There may also be something, limestone or other etc that is releasing some GH? What have you got in the tank? This seems quite likely as 23/7/23 you had GH6 in the tank so it looks like it has risen? If you can mix the water to tds 95-100, GH5 as you mentioned before and do 50% water change slowly (dripper) and carefully that should bring the figures to GH6 and tds 100ish in theory. That will get the numbers closer to perfect and aligned and should help.
  16. sdlTBfanUK

    Bee shrimps carrying eggs

    Was the shrimp that gave birth carrying the eggs when you got it or did you have an adult male which has since died? You do need a male to fertilize the eggs and if the eggs are still in the saddle you could try and get a male from somewhere (do you have one elsewhere) if you have a local supplier but it is probably a bit of a gamble at this point. Are the eggs underneath (I assume they are if you can see them) the female shrimp? If the eggs are underneath already there isn't much you can do and the shrimp will probably drop/abandon the eggs if they aren't fertilized. The eggs get fertilised by the male as they pass from the saddle (internal) to the underside. Bee shrimp (including blue bolt) will be sexually mature somewhere between 4-6 months.
  17. BoydQuinn

    Winter breeding issue's still?

    It is essential to refer to previous years and indicate whether lack of water is a cause for concern. Especially in the deep winter, it's time to replenish water in Europe. According to petdisease.net in the winter, you should pay more attention to your aquarium, otherwise it will lead to fish lack of oxygen and lead to death.
  18. sdlTBfanUK

    Parameters for Aussie Native Shrimp- RNS + DAS

    Good to hear you enjoyed the camping trip, even if it was yabie-less! It has got back to more normal here weatherwise. I did the tank this morning and there are still some cherry shrimp alive with the betta so no harm done there, but it only just got to 30 degrees on a couple of days. I don't think you should have too much of a problem finding a betta you like once your tank is ready etc. I would have thought your LFS should have some? At least you can make use of the tanks you were given, even if they aren't exactly the type you would have preferred. Have you removed the crushed coral now. I'm not very knowledgable with rock but if you attach a photo I am sure JayC will be happy to advise on it. You may find you are a bit resricted with the choice of Caridina shrimp as I believe you have restrictions on what can (and therefore has been in the past) be imported? I have always had Java fern in my tanks, it is so easy to grow and care for. I use the aquasafe superglue to attach it to wood/rock, worth another try?
  19. 20H with 6 loaches , 6 bee and 7 blue velvet. only death so far was the 8th velvet got stuck in the filter intake and died shortly after its freed.
  20. @bigfishkayak, please remove your personal details. If anyone wants to get in touch with you, they can send you a Private Message. You can exchange contact details there.
  21. sdlTBfanUK

    Orange poop shoots anyone??

    Some things will break down quicker than others, so leaves are usually blanched or cooked first so the shrimp can devour them easier, otherwise they may need a few days to soften a bit.
  22. Aussie.Shrimp.Girl

    White spot on rogue cherry shrimp

    Ahh ok. Im finding different websites have differing parameters. I'm on rainwater tanks at home. Thank you for telling me what you keep yours at. I'll work on getting back to that, but slowly. Today I ordered 3 female Gertrude's spotted blue eyed fish. Would they be fine at those parameters too Jason? Everywhere I look has different parameters from others. Or are they not a good fish to go with shrimp? Thank you! Yes Darwin Algae eating shrimp/Darwin Algae Shrimp. RNS- red nose shrimp. Thank you for that link. I'll go through that link now. Cheers
  23. jayc

    "Bloody Mary" tank

    @DanDan, welcome to the forum. Where are you located?
  24. Tap water TDS is 235 after some calculation it seems that I am getting a 97% rejection rate which is not to bad. I'm getting 6 TDS for my RO unit which is leading me to believe that it could be from the RO membrane though I am running dual RO membrane to help the RO to waste water ratio and dual sediment filters which might be overkill haha.
  25. JMo

    Apistogrammoides in Australia?

    I would also agree that it is an African cichlid. For apistogramma, I normally let the parents raise the fry until the female starts becoming aggressive towards the male. Only then do I separate the male. From my experience apistogramma fry can eat BBS right away. I've never had fry that we too small to eat BBS. There are a few smaller apistorgrammas like the psammophila which may be an exception.
  26. jayc

    Cursed Tank?

    I don't see anything of concern with the water parameters. As long as it remains stable, there isn't much we can do there. Don't do anything to the water until you see Nitrates at 5 or TDS at 160 (whichever comes first). That means no water changes. The only other advice I can give is to maybe increase protein in the food. Try frozen blood worms every other feed along with the regular Dennerle and BacterAE. Should be fairly simple to include in the feeding regime. This form of protein is severely lacking in shrimp food. Meaty protein is not the same as soy protein which is used a lot in shrimp food. If they go nuts for frozen bloodworms, you know that is something they are lacking in the diet.
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