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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks. It would help determine if there are any signs of disease on them. In all the time I have kept shrimp, and researching shrimp diseases, I have not actually seen shrimp loosing legs in a shrimp only tank. However, it can be a possibility. If they have a particularly difficult time at moulting, and can rip off their legs during the moulting process. The good news is that shrimp can regrow legs, after moulting a couple of times. The hard part is keeping them healthy long enough till their next moult. What concerns me is that it is happening to more than one. Let's go back to water parameters. Can you list all the parameters you can? Water hardness, and calcium is of particular concern to me. Are you adding any form of calcium to the tank?
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hello, Indeed, there shall be a pH variation depending on the plants that use/release CO2. However, 0.2 is comparable to the measurement error of a pH pen (i bought 2 and average the measures, and generally repeat the measuring 2-3 times if i need something more accurate). Concerning the akadama, the one i bough is Akadama Ibaki, and i think that it is the brand of it, the model is "double hard line". All technical soils will be "used up" at some point, and have to be replaced to get the buffering effect. However, the largest the effect on the water, the faster it will use the chemicals... For the same soil, if you're starting from 8.5 pH water to go to 6, it will probably use faster. In my case, my tap water is pH 7, KH 0 and GH 0, and i get to 6.5 pH, so i expect it to last a long time. If you want to do smaller doses of technical soil to lower "just a little" , i wonder if akadama will be strong enough for that? Or maybe it would simply take a long time to buffer the water to the final value... Anyway, in my case, the main goal is to keep shrimps. Some tanks are scaped, but if the soil "runs out", i'll probably either keep the scape with a population that likes the default water parameters, or redo the tank. But i have 11 tanks so i can move populations around i guess; if you only have this tank i don't know how to proceed... One thing i have noted though : Seyru stone increases the PH to aproximately 8 (again from near RO water parameters : GH/KH at 0, pH 7, TDS at 40), and the effect lasts extremely long (i have tanks with seyru stone that are years old, still the same parameters), so perhaps if we could find a rock that produces acidic water, it would create a long lasting buffer... With the large rock it takes more time than with technical soil to reach the final value, but basically lasts forever...
  5. sdlTBfanUK

    Replacing substrate

    Thanks again JayC for your time. I think I understand it a bit better. My tank was only set up about 6 months ago so hopefully it will be a while yet before I need to do a substrate change! If I have understood, with the JBL (I have a spare bag anyway) I would do the first 2 weeks in a bucket in the bathroom or kitchen to save lugging buckets of water around the house with changing the water every third day (as per manufacturer instructions) to clear the mineral build up they mention. Then I can change it in the actual shrimp tank and cross my fingers.............. I do have a spare heater and pump (unless I get a Betta for the spare small tank) which I could put in the bucket (and use dirty fish tank water) if it were in the kitchen so guess that would be the way to go (no plugs in bathrooms in uk) but as you said that is basically the same as setting up a tank I guess. That should then clear the mineral build up (per manufacturer instructions) and seed the substrate with some bacteria ready to go. Thanks again JayC I feel much clearer/confident about it now, though I would appreciate you letting me know if you think I haven't grasped it correctly. Simon
  6. Last week
  7. sky99

    OEBT: The shrimp with no fear?

    After more observation, i can confirm that they react less to my presence in the tank than both neocaridinas and caridinas babaulti; i have not performed testing for "out of the tank" visual stimulation.
  8. So are all the pipes in our plumbing. Yet tap water can be used.
  9. sdlTBfanUK

    Betta Water Parameters

    Thanks again for all the great advice JayC. I did the weekly maintenance of the FISH tank today and have kept the old water (sponges were rinsed in it so nice and dirty) while I mull everything over. I checked the cupboards and have everything except an electrical adaptor - cheap and easy enough to get! Main thing now is whether I can re-arrange stuff to make room for the 15L tank near the new shrimp tank (probably wait until friends come round for that), as when I used it before it was on the dining table and that wasn't a good idea at all - always in the way etc, but it was only a TRIAL shrimp tank at that time? I feel more confident it should be possible thanks to all your helpful advice! Thanks for taking the time to do this JayC. Simon
  10. sdlTBfanUK

    How hardy are Bettas?

    I had the same experience with the shrimps. I fished out red cherries which were reverting to wild (brown/clear colour) and put them in with the betta as food for the betta and they lived happily together and the shrimps even bred, but as they were so well camouflaged/dull colour most seemed to survive and wandered around the tank during daytime etc. When I first got the betta I put a very red shrimp in there and the fish soon went after it so I fished it out after a couple of days as it hid all the time. IF I do get another betta I will put reverting to wild colour in with it as before definitely. Simon
  11. Aquapac

    My tanks

    Excellent!! Looking forward to see how the project goes! Keep us posted!
  12. The Sand Shrimp!! Love them! I saw a tank with them in a shrimp show/competition a few years back. They were not competing but were on display during the event. A very unusual species but quite interesting. Unfortunately they are not very common in the hobby I think and hence the literature on these guys is limited. I tried to find a thing or two my self to help you out without much luck.
  13. Earlier
  14. Aquapac

    GE Silicone SCS1200 for aquarium building

    Here is the link: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/milsons-point/building-materials/ge-scs1200-silicone-best-for-diy-aquarium-terrarium-vivarium/1197497781 I found the ad by typing in the search bar on gumtree: ge scs1200 aquarium silicone. Friendly person, replies fast, I met with him in person for local pick up. I will start the project tomorrow!! 🙂
  15. Rare Aqua

    Amarinus Lacustris

    Yeah, I just don't want the species to be targeted and commercialized from wild populations, when I collected mine I only took a relatively small group and worked from there to build up a larger colony, if the species can be bred in captivity it would be much better, as we have seen some fish species are rare in the wild but extremely common in the fish trade due to unrestricted collecting, anyway they would be amazing to introduce to the fish world as the are so perfect for almost any tank
  16. Fiqshrimps

    A DIY Aquarium chiller

    Thank you so much solved the issue! 🙂
  17. @Hanzelz, The selling forum is as updated as the last transaction. That part of the forum is there for people here (paid members) to utilise and list items/livestock for sale. If they don't list items for sale, then the forum isn't used. I take this opportunity to remind each SKFA member to list items for sale here, even if you also plan to list items elsewhere. This forum is free, and I'm sure it can't hurt to get greater exposure.
  18. Rare Aqua

    Amarinus Lacustris

    Amarinus lacustris are a fully freshwater crab native to almost all parts of Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania and several other islands, As a breeding guide, I must introduce, that they DO NOT have a larval stage at any point of their life cycle, once females are berried they take between 3-5 weeks until the baby crabs hatch and are released, they are fully formed miniature adult crabs (about 1mm) For water parameters they are reasonable hardy and accept a wide ranges of conditions ( they have to be expendable as they are an estuarine species, where the pH and salinity changes extremely quickly), mine are kept at a pH of 7-7.5, with water changes done weekly of 25%, the tank has sponge filters (I use sponge filters as they are completely shrimp and crab safe, compared to internal motorised sponge filters and hang on the back filters which are known to suck up baby shrimplets and crablets), they easily breed in the same environment that they are kept in (no need for a specific breeder tank), from what I have witness like shrimp they can only breed when a female sheds her shell, there should be an extremely high ratio of females to males as males will continually harass female crabs (that have just shedded) other wise the males can kill females, however males and females get on perfectly fine when females have not shed recently, mine are kept in a cold water aquarium which has a large amount of native fissidens, driftwood, sand substrate and porous rocks, baby crabs should be fine if kept in the colony environment however as they need to compete with food with adult crabs you may only get 50% survival rate to adulthood, I overcome this issue by housing females (that are berried) in my 5 segmented tank this mean when the female releases the babies I simply take the female out and put back into the main crab tank, the babies are then grown on until the are about .5cm and added to the main colony tank, I keep mine in a species only aquarium, I have some with cherries and the crabs are quite timid of the shrimp even the HUGE 2cm males XD, I feed all the same food I do my shrimp, this includes shrimp sinking pellets, algae wafers, carrot and other safe vegetables, I did have Amarinus Laevis however I did find the quite regularly predated on my shrimp (this is subjective, as I know people have had no trouble with them and shrimp), also I stopped keeping them because of their complicated life cycle, all in all, easy to care for, easy to feed, just keep with non aggressive fish (they can be acclimatised to tropical), fully formed babies, extremely shrimp safe. *images may appear different depending on your computer settings, also if you want to use my images please contact me before copying them/using them (The crabs range from a light sandy colour, blonde, brown, and dark brown - depending on environment/day and night View full article
  19. sdlTBfanUK

    Clea helena - Assassin Snail

    I have assassins in my fish and shrimp tanks. I have only ever bought about 6 as they breed so readily and I don't feed them anything, though undoubtedly they eat fish/shrimp food they get hold of. I think they are pretty much a 'must have' in a densely planted tank, as they will search out and eat any fish/carcasses that you may not even be able to see in a planted tank and would then rot and foul the water etc. They can become a nuisance of their own, but they are easy enough to catch when numbers get out of hand - I give mine to a friend as puffer food.
  20. jayc

    Tank Cycle — No Nitrites?

    Is your ammonia reading coming down since adding it to the tank? This particular bacteria booster product does not cycle the tank, nor does it contain beneficial bacteria that cycles the tank. It only assists in the cycling process by neutralising the ammonia and nitrites. Instead the product is tricking your test kits into a false reading. How long has your 5 gal tanks been running for? Or are all 3 tanks the same age? If the 5gal tanks have been running for a month or more, a better way of boosting the 29gal cycle is to squeeze the filter media from the 5gals into the 29gal filters. And do a vacuum of the 5gal gravel and pour that dirty water straight into the 29 gal tank. Yes, the 29 will look dirty but only for a while. The 29gal instead will be seeded with LOTS of beneficial bacteria. If however, your tanks are of the same age and you don't have any gunk in the filter media or gravel, then you might be able to ask a friend who has an old tank to squeeze some of that gunk from their filter. Or you could ask your LFS.
  21. sdlTBfanUK

    Good or Bad Idea?

    If these are the blocks that look like chalk blocks, I bought some off ebay once (many years ago) which they recommended for shrimp/turtle shells. I put them in with cherry shrimp and although it didn't kill any that I saw, the TDS rapidly increased so I stopped using them immediately and discarded them!
  22. jayc

    Inconsistent TDS readings

    Based on this new result, i would be inclined to believe the XiaoMi. LFS RO water is rarely 0ppm TDS. Only if and when they change their RO filters will it be 0. And filters are not cheap, so they rarely change it. But 3ppm TDS is actually not too bad. If it really was 0ppm TDS, then both of your meters would have read 0. And now we know that there is a consistent 49ppm TDS difference in readings no matter if it's low or high ... it means that it is a calibration issue with your cheapie unit. So use it as a back up and remember to always subtract 49 from the reading. I use a HM Digital TDS meter. It's a lot more accurate than cheap ebay units, but also a lot more expensive. LOL! unfortunately quite a few LFS are like that. They can be staffed by students on work experience, or for a summer holiday job, and have been only given a 5 minute tutorial on the subject. I am often the one educating THEM about their stock or products. Just this last weekend I was at my LFS and asked if they had Blue Ram fish. The guy said yes, and proceeded to show them to me in the tank. "Here they are" ... I looked at it and told him "Those are Gold rams, not Blue Rams". He said, but the label says Blue Ram. Sigh... just because the label is wrong does mean JayC is wrong. "Look, these are gold in colour. Blue Rams are ... blue at the very least". He said "Oh". I guess getting them to pick male from female Blue Rams is out of the question, when their staff can't even tell Gold from Blue. Exit stage I left <- One last thing... If you are willing, you can try "fixing" the cheapie. There should be two metal prongs on the TDS meter. Try squeezing them apart from each other with some pliers. Not too much force. We are just trying to move them ever so slightly further apart to compensate for that extra 50ppm reading. See if that works, or at least reduces the 50 ppm discrepancy to something less. Oh, if prying them apart causes the reading to increase, then you need to squeeze them closer. I forget which way is which, as I haven't had to tune a TDS meter for the longest of time. I take no responsibility if it doesn't work .
  23. beanbag

    Sometimes inactive shrimp

    maybe one gallon per minute or so? Or in terms of water flow speed, maybe about 1/8th inch per second in some areas.
  24. Thanks for that. I will keep my fingers crossed it stays blue and have seen seen another with more white markings but smaller this morning. The reason I like the taiwan bee MIX is you never know what you may get and they are ALL different markings (even if only slightly) with a mixture of colours.
  25. jayc

    Is this a parasite?

    LOL. no need to delete it. the Original poster has not replied yet. So the topic is still 'open'. Anyway, it's good to have more then one opinion.
  26. Urak

    Shrimp Acting Strange?

    You mentioned the tank gets natural light - what's the temperature throughout the day? Are there any spikes when the sun is coming through the window the most?
  27. sdlTBfanUK

    newby - what sex it this one??

    It does look like a male to me if it is adult, I don't think you can tell when they are very young though. I'm not sure about colour grading, I do have RCS in my 'fish' tank but mainly into Taiwan Bees. It is good colour though! I think they breed from about 3 months old and if they are happy it isn't difficult I usually end up giving loads away............
  28. sdlTBfanUK

    I need help about Why my shrimp are pale

    I have recently been altering my TDS and GH to get them to where I wanted to be on my recently set up tank. It was GH3.5-4 TDS 150, it is now GH4.5 and TDS 160 and the colours are so much better, blue especially, see photo. As JayC says check water parameters and maybe VERY gradually increase GH/TDS (by a one TDS per day at most, is what I did and had no dead shrimp) if it is at the lower end of the recommended parameters. I am a not an expert/professional though! I increased the TDS by adding 1 drop of remineraliser each time (with the remineraliser I use it increases TDS about 25/litre/drop (GH+1/litre/drop), and my tank has 28 litres of water in it. I saw this nice blue one today, not seen one like this in my tank before. Picture very low quality as it is such a small one at the moment, hope it survives?
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