Jump to content

FishBeast's first rack plans. Advice needed.


FishBeast

Recommended Posts

The plans are now final and I have faxed them away to the glass guy. I have not bought custom tanks before and have no idea of what they will cost... Is $150 per tank a reasonable amount to expect assuming that they will use whatever standard glass thickness that would be considered normal for a tank of this size?

I have decided that I will go a sump instead of a trickle filter, mainly because it will add much more water volume to the total amount, and that it is easy to make a simple one which would do a good job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$150 is a fair price to pay per tank- My Cade in 900mm cost ten times that!!!!

When I built my marine tank the glass and sump glass cost $350 for pretty much your exact measurements - I did my display in Opti Clear glass though :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only trouble with those strainers is the hole's are to big, allowing new born shrimplets to go through and into the sump, and get returned to the tanks as chopped shrimppy's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd think so & I thought the same thing when I started using them but I've never found any shrimplets in my sumps, they tend to stick to the bottom of the tank, in plants & mosses till they are too old to fit through the strainers. Also, the filter wool will stop any shrimplets getting any further if they do get into the sump so there's no chance of them getting chopped up. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct in my calculating that to achieve a depth of 5cm's I will need 10 bags of Benibachi soil? :yikes:

I think that might have to wait until tax time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds about right, I think you'll need just over a bag & a half per tank. I used 3 bags per tank to do the same foot print & I have an average of 8-9cm depth in my tanks. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds about right' date=' I think you'll need just over a bag & a half per tank. I used 3 bags per tank to do the same foot print & I have an average of 8-9cm depth in my tanks. :encouragement:[/quote']

I understand now why you had to take your time building your last rack. 30 bags is pure dedication to this hobby,... I mean science.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small update. I finally got the quote for my tanks and I am thinking... Hmmmm... No thanks. He wants $473.... Per tank! So X's that by 3 and thats not to mention the cost of building a sump which I have not had quoted yet... I am thinking that I will do some more calling around and see who else can build them and consider drilling the holes myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whoa! That's exy indeed, should think about buying standard tanks & modifying them yourself maybe. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, if only we had members here who built tanks?!?! Maybe give them a PM.

My sump cost $120 for the 3 foot tank, $10 for silicon, $2 for gutter guard, $20 for eggcrate (had to get massive piece cut down) and $105 for cut glass. $257 all up, I was pleased with that compared to what I was quoted by stores in VIC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whoa! That's exy indeed' date=' should think about buying standard tanks & modifying them yourself maybe. :D[/quote']

Yes, I have asked for a price without holes drilled and for tanks 600x450x350mm standard with a lid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

A small update today. I finally found a supplier to make my tanks which I am happy with. I could have had them made in Surfers paradise for $200 each as opposed to the $420 each I was quoted locally but after the nearly 2000 km drive, food, accommodation and risk of breakage on the drive back home it just wasn't worth it.

 

I decided to go with 9 60x30x35cm individual tanks with the holes drilled in them for me for a total of $720 or $80 each. They will be ready to pick up in 3 weeks.  :thumbsu:  I have also began to stock up on the PVC stuff and electrical stuff. I am still in the process of designing my auto water change system and need to have my sump made.

 

I definitely can't see finishing my rack on this side of the financial year. But, this rack has to be built to my 100% satisfaction. I don't want to have any regrets later. I want this system to be as little maintenance as possible. I want my water changes to be as easy as adding shrimp water conditioner to my RO water and then pressing a button. :mp3:   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your latest 10 tank rack inspired me Squiggle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great news. It will be worth the wait getting it right from the start.

Squiggle has inspired many of us methinks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have finally come up with a basic plan of how my auto water change system will be set up and have drawn up a schematic of how it should work for those interested in the technical side of it.

 

The basic plan:

SumpDesignnomeasurements_zps2d75f9de.jpg

 

The schematic:

autowaterchangeschematic_zpsdec8181d.jpg

 

The bottom +240V line is the water pump for the tanks. All it shows is how at each stage of the water change it drops power to it so that is does not run at any time during the water change cycle.

 

It may seem complicated but I am hell bent on making the water changes as simple to do as is possible. If any stage of the water change fails the system will stop which will make water on the floor impossible. The only work I will need to do is push a button, sit back on a stool and drink beer.  :thumbsu: 

 

Here are the measurements of the sump so far. Please tell if you can see any problems with it.

SumpDesign2measurements_zps86067d0e.jpg

Edited by FishBeast
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small update. I have made an adjustment to the auto water change system. Under step 2 of the picture above I will use a countdown timer which I acquired from work. I will have to post a picture of it some time soon. You just set the minutes and seconds, then when it is activated it just counts down until it is finished. It will be handy because I can set the exact amount of time that it takes to completely siphon the water out out from the sump.

 

A float switch would most likely trigger before the water has siphoned as much as it possibly can, so this timer way will allow for a greater volume of water to be taken out. Also in the event that I need to do smaller water changes I can set a lesser time.

 

On another exciting note I have ordered my sump!  :lolu: 

 

So in a few weeks I can finally start on the fun stuff. The plumbing, then the electrical stuff which is another story all together. I have also acquired some pretty good temperature alarm/controllers from work which will take a a lot of research before I can get it working. This is what it looks like

 

http://www.temperatureshop.com.au/Temperature-Controllers/Shinko-48-x-48-JCS-Series/JCS33A-SM

 

I am beginning to get very excited. The shrimp have entered my mind.

Edited by FishBeast
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have made one more small change to the water change concept. I will be adding a 2 channel timer. One channel will take care of the lighting side of things and the other will control the auto water change system. It will be capable to doing as many changes as I like with as small or large quantity as I choose. It will be able to be run on both auto or manual override.

 

As a safeguard I am going add a button which has to be pressed before the change can occur. Reason being that in the event of me being a butthead and forgetting to add shrimp minerals to the RO water the system will not run and instead trigger a light on the control panel to signal that I have been a butthead.

 

I have been studying the temperature control/alarm module and I have nearly got it figured out. It will control the heating, cooling and trigger a high or low temp alarm if something goes wrong.

 

The true joy will be wiring it up and finally seeing it run. Can't wait to post it on YouTube!

Edited by FishBeast
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wish I had your knowledge of electronics! I could really use a butthead warning light on my system!! :thumbsu:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wish I had your knowledge of electronics! I could really use a butthead warning light on my system!! :thumbsu:

 

I actually don't know much about electronics. I just do a lot of research and ask sparkies for help with the basic concept. Lets see if I can pull it off LOL  :phew: 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been viewing this with envious eyes although I don't think I will end up buying it.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HM-Digital-PSC-154-TDS-EC-Controller-with-4-20mA-Output-PPM-conductivity-Monitor-/141287326571?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item20e561836b&_uhb=1

 

What would be great is if I could have the RO water tank automatically dosed with minerals to the correct TDS if it gets too high or low then it sounds an alarm. This way the only work I would have to do is have a 25 ltr tank of pre mixed minerals and watch as it gets lower, then re-fill it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a spunky piece of kit dude, let me know how it goes! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Squiggle.

 

I picked up another heap of PVC fittings today to the value of about $300..  :phew:  and I still have a stack to go. I will be picking up my tanks and sump on Friday so that is very exciting. I think the most frustrating part is Bunnings not having enough 25mm tank outlets, I have 7 of them but still need another 15  :startle:  The whole plumbing side of things seems dependent on starting from the tank outlets and working your way down.

 

I asked if the plumber was there and the lady stacking the shelves said he was not but I explained to her that I need a heap more of the fittings and showed her which one. I even pulled the empty box of the shelf a few inches so she could see the ones to re-order and I just know from her vagueness that her confirming that she will see it done was about as likely as me finishing my rack tomorrow.  :growl:

 

If a customer service representative says the word "should" to you, it really means, "Just go away from me long enough so that I can knock off and go home, I can't be bothered doing this right now and probably wont ever be"

 

I just don't think she understands the importance of having a shrimp rack. :thumbsd: 

 

I will aim to have some pictures up on the weekend once I put the tanks in place and hopefully make a decent start on the plumbing. Once I have finished plumbing I will start on the electrical side of things. There are 3 parts to it. 1. The lighting, timer and power points, 2. The temperature controller/alarm and 3. The automatic water change

 

I will probably tackle them in that order. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...