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    • She11kat
      By She11kat
      My tank looks like it full of marine snow. I am not sure if it's a good or bad thing. I also have 5 or 6 tiny white worms flailing about in the water, they are maybe 1cm at most. My tank is plants only right now and it's been setup for 6-8 weeks. Should I be concerned? 


    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      Ive noticed I had some equipment laying around that needed to be put to better use, and after settling in my half a dozen or so new shrimp colonies and other tanks, I figure I'll get to scaling it. 
      Ive cleaned up an old 50cm Long tank and cut a glass brace for this light to sit on, Was a standard 3ft tropical PL compact flouro light, one ballast stopped working ages back so I cut it out and halved the unit,  and the other has powered along for over a year now with a new globe.
      I've Got that light 36w, my 1L Ista co2 bottle just behind it, Aquaone 650 canister filter- which I'm putting a glass skimmer on, a standard glass heater, and drop checker.- That's about it for equipment, I'm contemplating adding a sotching oxydator I bought from newbreed aquatics closing down sale.
      Looking for some nice lava rock as I want to keep the kh quite low in this one, most of my other tanks have had seiryu or something else reactive, and I find plants like anubias and buce grip much better into light pourous stone like lava rock. 
      I've got a fresh bag of Black earth to go in there when I do find the lava rock, till then.


    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Many aquatic keepers combine their passion for plants and shrimp in the one tank. One common question for newcomers is how to keep the shrimp safe in a planted tank that requires fertilizers. Why is this important? Well, how do you know what's safe, what's not, how it affects water parameters, what's not recommended, premixed liquid vs dry and the list goes on and on.
      One SKF Aquatics member, @Brentwillmers, found the following as a safe method for Taiwan Bee shrimp in his planted aquariums.
      Using only use R/O water with salty shrimp GH to a TDS of 80-90, the fertilizer dosing schedule is a mix of liquid and dry powders. This mix depends on availability and cost. Micro-Mix supplies a broad range of trace elements demonstrated to be necessary for proper plant health and growth.
      The following dosage of Micronutrients was found to be safe for his Taiwan Bee shrimp:
      Iron: 0.5ppm  Magnesium: 0.80ppm Zinc: 0.002ppm Manganese: 0.001ppm Boron: 0.002ppm Molybdenum: 0.003ppm Cobalt: 0.00002ppm For trace elements, Seachem Trace, Aquavitro envy or a dry powder using a product such as Plantex CSM+Boron can be used. Often people will choose to dose chelated iron separately from other trace elements, though most commercial trace mixes do include some level of chelated iron. For this reason, Aquavitro propel is preferred.
      However, with some micro-mixes be aware of the copper concentration as these can be fatal for your shrimp.
      Micro-nutrients can be used alone or in conjunction with a macro-nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Liquid Seachem Nitrogen can be used or a dry powder form via adding the compound Potassium Nitrate (KNO3). Try to keep the levels at around 10ppm in low, medium and high light aquariums. Do not exceed 20ppm!! If you do stop dosing and do a water change and test again. 
      Liquid Seachem Phosphorus or a powder form as Monopotassium Phosphate or KH2PO4 can be used in the aquarium but keep the levels low. It's best used in low, medium and high light aquariums and kept at around 0.5ppm. Always keep these levels low as possible it can be harmful to shrimp.
      Seachem Potassium or powdered potassium sulfate, or K2SO4 can be used. Keep the dose to around 10ppm in low to medium light aquarium and 20ppm with high light aquariums. Do not exceed 20ppm as it can be harmful to more sensitive shrimp.
      Dosing macro's 3 times per week and micro's 3 times a week alternating between days generally works well. You can find the perfect balance by dosing in the mornings and performing water test before lights out. On day 7 it’s important to do a water change, 50% weekly is recommended to reset water parameters. 
      Unfortunately, a 50% water change will cause TDS levels to fall quickly. One method to minimize the rate in reduction is to perform 2 lots of 30% water changes (morning and afternoon) instead of a single 50%. The PH of the new water should be as close to your aquarium PH as possible. TDS will increase again after each dose of fertilizers so keep this in mind when adding remineralization to R/O water. 
      Some methods of dosing are:
      Estimative Index (EI) Dosing Target Dosing PPS Pro Dosing EI method:
      EI dosing involves dosing each individual macro and a trace mix up to a high level throughout a week and at the end of the week, a 50% water change is performed, cutting the remaining nutrients in half, and the tank is dosed again. This is a simple way to insure you never bottom out on any nutrients. However, not a great idea for shrimp.
      Target Dosing (preferred method):
      Target dosing involves performing water tests on nitrate, potassium, phosphate and iron levels, dosing as per the target levels for your tank.
      PPS Pro Dosing:
      PPS Pro dosing involves dosing the tank with the amount of each nutrient needed during a 24-hour cycle. It requires daily dosing, but is great for keeping the tank from having excess nutrients which can cause algae issues. It does involve some math and some pretty small measurements, but is a very effective way to dose. 
      Whatever the dosing method, one key point to remember is that everything is dependent on CO2, lighting and plants. Hope you enjoyed this article and happy shrimping. 
       
      References and Content/Image Credit
      SKF Aquatics member - @Brentwillmers
       
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    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you have lost a shrimp. How many are there left in the tank? I wouldn't act to hastily and start treating for something that may not be? Maybe it just died and you will never know why if it had no symptoms? Just keep a close eye on the rest for now! Maybe the BKK weren't very healthy to start with if they hadn't grown as expected, though also there may not have been sufficient food, but that is less likely if the others in the tank have grown! I would feed the shrimps as the grazing area is fairly limited (I assume this is your 80L divided into 4) but sparingly, maybe twice a week. Crush up a pellet into almost a powder, then dip a pin or similar a couple of mm in the water, then into the food, then back in to the tank will give them something different to eat to supplement their diet. I would check the temperature of the water as well as when my old setup overheated they started going an orange/pink colour? It is good that you obviously spend time watching them as they are fascinating to watch and very calming!  Simon
    • Crabby
      Perfect. I've got a spare heater, can source a tank and filtration, have cycled media, and have a simple light if ambient light isn't enough.  Pretty random question - are sponge filters super noisy? I've never used one with an air pump, and the qt tank would go in my bedroom; but only if I could actually sleep 🙂. Otherwise, is it cool to turn off a filter at night? Cheers
    • jayc
      Usually a week or two should be enough with careful observation to see if any symptoms develop.   No. But it depends on the filtration. If you use a mature filter, then you don't need to cycle a quarantine tank for very long. I just use the water from my water change to fill a quarantine tank. And some old filter media floss from a mature filter in the quarantine tank's canister. The quarantine tank is very basic, no decor, no substrate, nothing. Except maybe some lights to check for diseases after a week or two. You can get away with lights, and use a hand held torch even.  Just a heater.
    • Crabby
      Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it! As for the details, the tank is my 110L community, and while none of my fish are especially expensive or special, but I don’t want to lose any or have to rescape. The reason I was hoping to avoid qt is bc I don’t have a spare tank or filter atm. I think I will qt I think. How long should I do it for, and do I need to cycle the tank very long?
    • beanbag
      Hello folks, This is in regards to my TB tank that has had shrimp for about 2 months now.  The shrimp came in two batches from different vendors - one was two BKK and the other was a bunch of RWP and BB.  Everything was going well for about 2 months with the shrimps actively grazing around and suddenly I found one of the BKK dead and upright in a corner of the tank.  I usually do a check-up on the shrimp every day and the only time the shrimp are inert is one day before and after a molt.  In the past when I had shrimp die for various reasons they would be inert for a few days prior. The water parameters are the same as usual: Amm/NO2/NO3 = 0, ph = 6.0 or a little lower, GH 5, TDS 110 Using RO + SS GH+ and I did a 15% water change 2 days ago, dripping in the new water. I haven't fed any pellet shrimp food for a while because there are still lots of patches of algae in the tank, plus one IAL, plus they finished off a mulberry leaf 2 days ago. Nothing looks odd on the dead body of this shrimp (no real color loss) except the clear parts like antennae and tip of tail are a little orange.  (I think this is typical of shrimp that have died?  Or a molt shell once you remove it from the water and expose it to air.) The only odd things about this shrimp are that in the 2 months, it molted a few times but never grew much (or at all) over the original 1/2" size.  About a month ago, the white parts of it started turning blue.  The other BKK that came at the same time also either hasn't grown at all or maybe just a tiny bit, and only has little patches of blue.  The other batch of shrimp from a different breeder (RWP and BB) have grown significantly over this time. Anyway, the rest of the shrimp seem to still be doing well and actively grazing.  (Actually, two are acting quiet, but it is still within the pre-molt time frame) I hope it's not bacterial infection, but what can I do to prevent / prepare?  I have available: Dr Tim's Eco balance, Doxycycline (fish med), oregano oil, melafix, H2O2.
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