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    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
       
      Any input would be appreciated!
       
    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      Just wondering if any of ya'll have experience keeping filter feeder shrimp? They're fairly common here although most of the LFS tend to stock lethargic specimens that seem to be on their last legs 😕 Just need some advice on how to spot and pick out healthy specimens for my community tank 😄  
      Also, anyone know where I could find the less common wood shrimp on steroids? Let me know 🙂 
      Common Wood Shrimp

      Wood Shrimp's Buff Cousin, Vampire Shrimp

    • waffle
      By waffle
      Hey folks, can anyone recommend an effective, silent corner filter for a 33cm cube tank?
      Cheers ?
      This is looking like a good candidate at the moment: http://www.thetechden.com.au/Aquael_Pat_Mini_Filter_for_tanks_10_80_liters_p/111605.ht
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hi folks,
      i have received some beautiful CRS from heavyD today and i have a situation with the current being too fast for the shrimp to swim very well in. I have the spraybar just below the surface and angled slightly up for maximum oxygenation but it still seems to be a little fast at the lower level of the tank, i can see moss swaying around and the shrimps being blown across somewhat when they try to swim. There is quite a "whirlpool" effect happening.
      Aside from replacing the canister with a smaller one; how does one go about lessening the current inside the tank? I thought of 2 solutions but I don't know how wellthey will do or exactly how to implement them -
      1)I could make more holes or make the holes larger in the spraybar?
      2) cover it with a stocking or sponge or something to slow down the water as it shoots out the holes in the spraybar.
      cheers
      love n peace
      will
    • GotCrabs
      By GotCrabs
      G'Day all, I have an Eheim 2213 Canister filter, API Bio Chem Zorb, API Nitra Zorb, just wondering what goes where as this will be the first time using Nitra Zorb.
      From bottom up, it goes Blue Course Sponge (3 or 4 depending on room), then White Filter Pad (1), then Carbon Pad (1), do I then place the Bio Chem Zorb on or the Nitra Zorb? Or do they go in different sections in the filter?
      Cheers.
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  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for updating us and I'm pleased it seems to be working better now. The tank looks fabulous as well and the shrimp will be very happy in there! Go carefully with the C02 though and I hope to see your taiwan bee shrimp soon? Simon
    • LCM94
      Hi  For those who read my last issues in this thread below, I have completely renewed the tank. Introduction of a spider wood of some sort polluted my tech soil definitely. So removed everything, changed the soil to a standard JBL Manado Dark soil, so I won't have to worry about changing it for a while. I kept the plants but threw away the soil & the woods I used to have. Plants were kept. After 6 weeks of running it empty I introduced last week CRS S to SSS type. They are doing fine. I use 100% RO water with salty shrimp for Caridinas. Parameters seem all perfect. CO2 to help plants grow. Just wanted to open a live topic to show you the evolution and breeding I will have when I will introduce this week some Taiwan Bees Pandas & Red Wines. The results should be interesting. I am not looking into breeding specific types, just want to see how thing goes with this breedings. Anyway here are a couple of pics.  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would just test the KH of the tank and make sure it is still 3 and if it is leave it alone, that's the figure you want. I use a separate KH+ (elixir) for the one tank I want to add some KH and I already have the GH+ anyway. It is a bit more complicated than buying the GH/KH combined but not that much once you get used to it. You are aiming to keep it at 3-4, so aim for 3 as it is easier to increase than decrease. I think JayC probably knows of a cheap KH alternative cooking product or ingredient (if I remember correctly, I want to say bicarbonate of soda but don't rely on that, something similar?) rather than buying a special product which is obviously more expensive so see what he has to say later! If the first drop was pale yellow then it probably is 0, the reason it went darker will be down to the adding of more tester fluid. The GH+ usually has no KH so with RO water it is usually 0 but you can't test for zero as that requires adding zero drops, and therein you are starting down the road to insanity............. If you are that bothered (and you shouldn't be really) you can increase the volume of water, ie double (10ml) each drop is .5 KH, or 4 times the water (20ml) each drop is .25 KH and so on, however it will be so diluted you probably won't be able to se any colour anyway as it is difficult enough to see the colour in 5ml? Simon
    • jayc
      Not that much of a problem if you got the GH+ instead of GH/KH+. All you need to do is add Bi Card Soda (not baking soda), which you might already have in the kitchen. Go slow. A bit of Bicarb goes a long way to increasing KH. I suggest dissolving 1/4 teaspoon in some tank water. Do this in a small container. Then drop a couple of drops of this into the tank. Any extra can be stored in an empty bottle for next time. Re-test KH. 
    • WaldoDude
      Hello, so i've done my first water change using RO water. Now, I used Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp GH+ as it was the only one my lfs had. I realised this doesn't have KH like the Salty Shrimp GH/KH+, so my question is do I need to add anything else to the water for KH? So following the dosage on the product, I got a GH of 7 with a TDS of 140 and KH of 0-1 (maybe 2, it went a little yellow at the first drop, and solid yellow at the 2nd drop).  Cheers!
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