Hi guys,

 

I'm about to jump into the shrimp hobby and was hoping for some advice on the setup I'm thinking of getting.

 

Tank - Fire tank (45cmx27cmx30cm) - originally wanted ADA 45-P but it's double the price..

Filter - Eheim 2213

Substrate - Cal Aqua Labs Fine

Light - Up Aqua 45cm

 

Looking at starting off with CRS. TDS of tap water is 30ppm.

 

What do you think of the above setup?

 

What other essentials will I need?

 

Thanks Shrimp Lovers

Setup looks okay.... Preferred substrate would be benibachi.

Sounds like you have a tds meter. So next would be an R.O water filter and some bee shrimp mineral gh+

Heater?

Setup looks okay.... Preferred substrate would be benibachi.

Sounds like you have a tds meter. So next would be an R.O water filter and some bee shrimp mineral gh+

Heater?

Hi inverted,

 

Is the only difference between benibachi and cal aqua is that the benibachi keeps a more acidic PH for the crystals?

 

I'm looking to plant in the substrate so want a bit of a balance.

 

Also, it's summer here so wasn't too worried about heater...yet...any suggestions? Inline?

Edited February 6, 201511 yr by neo-2FX

If you like a clean look in the tank inline is good I use a hydor in my display tank. You need a heater .... Stable water parameters are important for success with crs .

Also, it's summer here so wasn't too worried about heater...yet...any suggestions? Inline?

 

Yeah it's Summer here too, haha, sorry I had too.

 

You'll love the Eheim 2213, that's what I have, top filter, I'd just suggest you put a mesh guard on the intake to stop baby shrimp from being sucked up and slaughtered.

I might get a compact one and hide it behind some moss or something. I guess it's not a huge deal since it's not really a display tank [emoji12]

Have you got anything for cooling the tank? I have found that for my own CRS having a chiller has made a huge difference.

Have you got anything for cooling the tank? I have found that for my own CRS having a chiller has made a huge difference.

Air con ftw!

Cal Lab Black Earth Premium is fine for CRS too. Nothing wrong with using it for CRS.

Benibachi is ok too.

 

I'd add mineral powder on the base of the substrate, and either Mosura BT-9 or Benibachi Super Bee Max or Probidio Biodigest on the substrate in the tank.

While you are at it, get some mineral balls and save on extra shipping costs. The mineral balls will help maintain minerals in the tank like a slow release tablet.

 

You have tap water that is 30ppm? That's good tap water.

You can get away with using it plus a good water conditioner and put off RO for a later purchase.

You already have a TDS pen, so make sure you also get a GH/KH kit. And since you will be cycling a new tank, get an Ammonia and Nitrite kits too.

 

 

Eheim 2213 will be ok for the 45cm tank. 

Recommend using Marine Pure spheres as bio media instead of rings. 

So your filter will have Coarse, medium, fine sponge at the bottom then Marine Pure spheres in the other trays above.

 

+1 to all the other advice given so far. Mesh prefilter, Air con to keep the room/tank cool, etc.

Edited February 13, 201511 yr by jayc

Yes it's 30. Recalibrated to double check and same result lol.

I definitely will be getting the master test kit and GH/KH.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Have taken it all onboard and I feel more comfortable now [emoji1]

jayc,

 

So I need the following?

 

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Salty_Shrimp_Shrimp_Mineral_GH_KH_200g_p/shrm200.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/MK_Breed_Life_Balls_p/mklf10.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Benibachi_Super_Bacterium_Bee_Max_30g_p/bm30.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Benibachi_Mineral_Powder_120g_p/mp120.htm

 

Not sure about the last two. You mentioned something about a substrate powder and then a mineral powder.

Hello Neo,

 

Another option if you are thinking about mineral balls instead of MK Breed is the http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/boss-mineral-balls-10pack/

jayc,

 

So I need the following?

 

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Salty_Shrimp_Shrimp_Mineral_GH_KH_200g_p/shrm200.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/MK_Breed_Life_Balls_p/mklf10.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Benibachi_Super_Bacterium_Bee_Max_30g_p/bm30.htm

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Benibachi_Mineral_Powder_120g_p/mp120.htm

 

Not sure about the last two. You mentioned something about a substrate powder and then a mineral powder.

 

You want to keep CRS right?

 

In that case you want to get Salty Shrimp Bee shrimp mineral GH+ 

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Salty_Shrimp_Bee_Shrimp_Mineral_GH_230g_p/bm230.htm

 

GH+/KH+ is for Cherries.

 

As for mineral ball - If you want to get everything from Tech Den, you can try their new mineral block.

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Ornamental_Shrimp_Mineral_Block_p/smb.htm

Looks like it has everything you need in it, including a bit more.

 

The Super Bee Max and Mineral powder you linked above is correct. Those were the ones I was referring to.

Edited February 7, 201511 yr by jayc

You want to keep CRS right?

 

In that case you want to get Salty Shrimp Bee shrimp mineral GH+ 

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Salty_Shrimp_Bee_Shrimp_Mineral_GH_230g_p/bm230.htm

 

GH+/KH+ is for Cherries.

 

As for mineral ball - If you want to get everything from Tech Den, you can try their new mineral block.

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Ornamental_Shrimp_Mineral_Block_p/smb.htm

Looks like it has everything you need in it, including a bit more.

 

The Super Bee Max and Mineral powder you linked above is correct. Those were the ones I was referring to.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Yes I was hoping to order everything from the one place.

 

So if I've understood correctly, the super bee max goes under the substrate and the mineral powder is a supplement added to the water? Maybe I've misunderstood the difference between the two?

 

Also, how does GH, KH and PH all link together? and why is only GH important to CRS?

Edited February 7, 201511 yr by neo-2FX

The super bee max has been out of stock for a while.... Waiting on that myself!

The super bee max has been out of stock for a while.... Waiting on that myself!

 

What's the difference between:

 Benibachi Mineral Powder

and

Benibachi Super Bacterium Bee Max

Edited February 7, 201511 yr by neo-2FX

The bee max goes under the substrate....... Bare in mind you don't need it.... Just speeds everything up.

Edited February 7, 201511 yr by inverted

The bee max goes under the substrate....... Bare in mind you don't need it.... Just speeds everything up.

 

What does it speed up? the cycling?

OK guys...got all my gear from the tech den (whose service totally rocks BTW [emoji110] ). I have a few questions however.

1. The Eheim came with media (some small spheres and the cylinders) what am I replacing with the marinepure bigger spheres?

2. Do I remove the activated carbon? The IAL I got says to remove the activated carbon. The Eheim has a carbon pad.

3. The intake u pipe is too long.. Can I saw it without it cracking?

4. Do I need to rinse the filter media? Including the marinepure spheres.

5. What's the best way to organize the media and filter pads?

6. Does the mineral powder go under the substrate?

Appreciate the help guys, you've been amazing so far! [emoji123]

Edited February 12, 201511 yr by neo-2FX

Hello Neo,

 

Another option if you are thinking about mineral balls instead of MK Breed is the http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/boss-mineral-balls-10pack/

 

I'd personally go with Boss Aquaria Mineral Balls.

Yes, you can cut the pipe without cracking it, I've done the same, just use a saw.

The carbon pad with the eheim is a novelty to throw out at the first filter clean. It's intended to pick up the slack while the new filter cycles. You can use it for a while but it will take up some of your IAL tannin. 

From the bottom you want noodles, blue sponge, substrat pro (little balls) then white pad at the top. Probably not much room for marinepure, but if used it would replace some of the sub pro at/near the top.

Yes you can rinse all that media. 

There are clay powders that go under the substrate and GH/KH raising powders that go in the water column. Don't know which ones you mean. 

 

I suggest that a hacksaw will produce a cleaner cut on the rigid eheim pipes than a wood saw. 

OK guys...got all my gear from the tech den (whose service totally rocks BTW [emoji110] ). I have a few questions however.

1. The Eheim came with media (some small spheres and the cylinders) what am I replacing with the marinepure bigger spheres?

2. Do I remove the activated carbon? The IAL I got says to remove the activated carbon. The Eheim has a carbon pad.

3. The intake u pipe is too long.. Can I saw it without it cracking?

4. Do I need to rinse the filter media? Including the marinepure spheres.

5. What's the best way to organize the media and filter pads?

6. Does the mineral powder go under the substrate?

Appreciate the help guys, you've been amazing so far! [emoji123]

MarinePure is great media.  I have been slowly changing all of my old media in my tanks to it.  I would definitely use it instead of the media supplied with the filter.

 

By the way, you can easily cut the MarinePure spheres in half or quarters with a hacksaw.  I was able to fit a lot more spheres in my filter by mixes whole spheres with the cut pieces.  Just make sure you rinse them after cutting them.

Hello Neo,

 

The way I have organised my filter media is by having a course sponge at the bottom, then a medium follow by a fine sponge. The rest of the space I used the marine pure media and lastly I had some wool and carbon.

 

I would give the media a quick clean in some old tank water or ro water.

Edited February 13, 201511 yr by Disciple

Hello Neo,

 

The way I have organised my filter media is by having a course sponge at the bottom, then a medium follow by a fine sponge. The rest of the space I used the marine pure media and lastly I had some wool and carbon.

 

 

+1. That's the way to organise your media in a canister.

Reasoning behind that is ... Biological media like marine pure, ceramic rings, or equivalent porous media, will all clog with gunk really easily if you place it before the sponges.

Since water flows from the bottom up in a canister, you want to filter the largest dirt particles out before it gets to the bio media.

By having the sponges layered in course, medium then fine in the bottom most tray, you will minimise clogging of your bio media higher up in the next trays, so it can do it's job more efficiently. When it's clogged, water flow through the bio media like marine pure, is reduced and the bacteria within the bio media won't be able to do it's job properly.

 

You should replace the spheres and cylinders that came with the filter with the Marine Pure spheres. Marine pure will be a lot better, so the more space you can make for marine pure the better. Use the sponges that came with the filter in the bottom most tray. But but keep the other eheim media for another day. Use as much marine pure as your bio media as you can fit into the remaining trays above the sponges.

 

You don't need the activated carbon at this stage, so set it aside for another day when you need to absorb toxins, or medications.

 

Cutting the pipes with a hacksaw will give you the cleanest cut, as wot_fan mentioned. You'd still need to smooth out the edges though. Sand paper and a utility knife helps with smoothing the edges.

 

Mineral Powder goes under the substrate in a new tank. Subsequent applications can just go into the water. 

If you have bacterial additives then the can be sprinkled straight into the filter canister, or into the water directly. 

Your Super Bee Max can go in and on top of the substrate.