Based on the website you linked (thanks for that), I believe I it is spirogyra.  I will have a closer look when I get home.

Oh.... That's bad.

 

Spirogyra will not go away. It will just grow more.

 

Spirogyra occur when there is strong lighting and ammonia spike. Which location are they going on?

There is some near the top and some more in the middle of the spider wood in the flame moss.  There is also some in the subwassertang in the back of the tank.

 

One of the removal methods recommended on the site you linked is a 3 day blackout.  It seems to be one of the few shrimp safe option.  Is there some other method you would suggest I try?

Nah,.. blackout will never kill Spirogyra. You will need to use H2O2 or diluted acid (pH 3 to 4) and drip on them. Do you have diluted muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) with you?

Nah,.. blackout will never kill Spirogyra. You will need to use H2O2 or diluted acid (pH 3 to 4) and drip on them. Do you have diluted muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) with you?

All I have is H202.  I have 35% (food grade) and off the shelf 3% H202.  How much can I safely use without affecting the shrimp.  My tank is 20G/75L.

You have to take them out to treat. 

How can food grade is 35%? 35% will burn skin within split second.

How can food grade is 35%? 35% will burn skin within split second.

LOL, that's what the place that sold it to me called it.  It is also what is recommended (once diluted) for Sochting Oxydators.

 

Here is their reasoning for calling it food grade:

"Food Grade" means that it is approved by the United States Department of Agriculture for usage in food processing. Specifically, it means that the United States Department of Agriculture has tested sample drums of a production run to certify that it is not contaminated, that its concentration level is the level stated, and that it does not contain harmful stabilizers. This increases the cost of Food Grade hydrogen peroxide 200% to 300% over "technical" or "bulk' grade (both are the same.) The individual containers of consumer size filled from the drums are not tested by the U.S.D.A. unless they should elect to do so. 

Food grade means that the hydrogen peroxide does NOT contain harmful stablizers or contaminants AND was tested/sampled by the United States Department of Agriculture (the drums tested). Neither the F.D.A. nor U.S.D.A. has set any standard for the safe consumption of  hydrogen peroxide. Food Grade hydrogen peroxide has been approved for certain food processing applicatoins. 

Most other grades of hydrogen peroxide don't have to mean any standard whatsoever. It is whatever the individual manufacturer says it is. "Technical" grade means whatever the manufacturer wants it to mean. Only "food grade" meets a quality/purity standard AND is tested by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

 

Source

Edited February 15, 201511 yr by wot_fan

LOL!!! 35% usually is BSP grade. Unless they are lower than BSP grade and they just call it food grade. LOL!!!

 

Your quote says everything. :)

 

By the way, handle 35% with care. It burns through your skin very fast. I always sterilise my aquarium containers and tools with 3% H2O2. Sometimes when I forgot to wear gloves, the skin of my fingers will burn right through within a few minutes until no finger print. Just imagine what the 35% can do to you.

 

For the aquarium, you just need the 3% BSP grade type. 

LOL!!! 35% usually is BSP grade. Unless they are lower than BSP grade and they just call it food grade. LOL!!!

 

Your quote says everything. :)

 

By the way, handle 35% with care. It burns through your skin very fast. I always sterilise my aquarium containers and tools with 3% H2O2. Sometimes when I forgot to wear gloves, the skin of my fingers will burn right through within a few minutes until no finger print. Just imagine what the 35% can do to you.

 

For the aquarium, you just need the 3% BSP grade type. 

Thanks for the warning, I will be careful and I'll use the 3% on the algae.

To treat the algae. Take it out. Mix the 3% H2O2 with water at 50/50 ratio. Drip it over the algae area. Leave it for 2 minutes (not too long or your plant will die). After that rinse it with tap water and soak it in dechlorinated water. This will remove the chlorine from tap water. Then you can put it back to the tank.

 

Your shrimp will eat the dead algae and plant. If the algae persist, you may need to do it after 3 to 5 days.

To treat the algae. Take it out. Mix the 3% H2O2 with water at 50/50 ratio. Drip it over the algae area. Leave it for 2 minutes (not too long or your plant will die). After that rinse it with tap water and soak it in dechlorinated water. This will remove the chlorine from tap water. Then you can put it back to the tank.

 

Your shrimp will eat the dead algae and plant. If the algae persist, you may need to do it after 3 to 5 days.

Thank you!  All of the algae I have seen is on the main piece of spider wood so that is all I will have to remove.  I will do it in a couple of hours.  I have to do some maintenance including a WC on my 65G community tank first though.

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help you have provided on both my tank and my shrimp photography.  Without your help I am sure I would have killed at least one batch of shrimp (and probably more) not to mention the grief and aggravation you have saved me from.  Thank you sir.

You are welcome. ;)

I dosed the algae with H2O2 yesterday.  The moss doesn't appear to be affected.  I can't tell yet if all the algae was taken care of.  Here is a close up of the algae.

 

On the positive side, look what I found when the lights came on today.

Congrats man! In about 30 days the real tank staring will begin.

Keep up the good work. Good luck.

Nice shrimp.

love the colour combination - bluish tinged body, orange head and tail, with the yellow eggs.

 

"It's a beauty mate" - with an aussie accent. 

Congrats man! In about 30 days the real tank staring will begin.

Keep up the good work. Good luck.

Thanks.  Seeing her made my day .  I am really looking forward to seeing what the babies look like.

 

Nice shrimp.

love the colour combination - bluish tinged body, orange head and tail, with the yellow eggs.

 

"It's a beauty mate" - with an aussie accent. 

Thanks.  I agree that she is one of my more attractive shrimp.  I think the bluish tinge is due to the white balance being a little off in the picture though.  I forgot to fix it before I posted the them.  I guess I was a little too excited to share the news  .

 

How likely is my girl to successfully carry this clutch of eggs to term?  I know it is not uncommon for many types of fish to be unsuccessful at their first attempt(s) at breeding and caring for eggs.  Is it the same for shrimp?

Edited February 17, 201511 yr by wot_fan

Woo hoo.... Congratulations.....

Some shrimp will drop their clutch early others will be great first time......

Your tank looks in good shape I think that helps :)

Edit: mixing up my there their they're again

Edited February 17, 201511 yr by inverted

Thanks.  Seeing her made my day .  I am really looking forward to seeing what the babies look like.

 

Thanks.  I agree that she is one of my more attractive shrimp.  I think the bluish tinge is due to the white balance being a little off in the picture though.  I forgot to fix it before I posted the them.  I guess I was a little too excited to share the news  .

 

How likely is my girl to successfully carry this clutch of eggs to term?  I know it is not uncommon for many types of fish to be unsuccessful at their first attempt(s) at breeding and caring for eggs.  Is it the same for shrimp?

In my own experience you will find that she will drop a few but carry most all the way.

 

I have had some carry them all the way the first time and some that have dropped them all by 3 weeks.

 

But either way with my rili's once they started they didn't stop.

Woo hoo.... Congratulations.....

Some shrimp will drop their clutch early others will be great first time......

Your tank looks in good shape I think that helps :)

Edit: mixing up my there their they're again

 

In my own experience you will find that she will drop a few but carry most all the way.

 

I have had some carry them all the way the first time and some that have dropped them all by 3 weeks.

 

But either way with my rili's once they started they didn't stop.

Thank you both for the info.  I guess I will just keep my fingers crossed for the next month .

 

I tried to get some more shots of her, but she didn't want to cooperate.  Here are some of my other shrimp that weren't so shy.

Very nice photos!!! 

 

Next time you want them to corporate, spray a little powder food at the front of the tank. The powder food is not obvious and will not ruin the  shot like shrimp wafer. ;)

Congrats man! And dope pics once again!

Very nice photos!!! 

 

Next time you want them to corporate, spray a little powder food at the front of the tank. The powder food is not obvious and will not ruin the  shot like shrimp wafer. ;)

Thanks.  I turned down the flash power as you suggested.  I like the results I have been getting .  

 

I'll try your powder food trick the next time I am taking pictures.  Thanks again.

Congrats man! And dope pics once again!

Thanks for the kind words buck.

Thanks.  I turned down the flash power as you suggested.  I like the results I have been getting .  

 

I'm glad you like it. ;)

I think I may have a problem.  One of my shrimp has a cloudy shell and its antennae are short.  Based on what I read, it sounds like a bacterial infection.  What should I do?

 

I am not sure if it is my imagination but the shrimp in general don't seem as active as usual.  The 5 shrimp (of 13) I was able to find all looked normal and were eating.  I haven't seen any dead shrimp.  I did see a shell from a successful molt though.

 

I'll try to get a picture of the cloudy shrimp.  I may not be successful since he hasn't come out in the open since I noticed him.