Lessen your WC to, when i cycle a tank i would probably only do 1 or so as everytime you are adding new water you are changing the conditions in the tank and imo affecting the establishment of the bacteria colony. Your bacteria colony is only going to be small cause your cycling therefor you want minimal impact whilst it grows.

 

Ever heard the saying a watched kettle never boils ? 

Edited February 1, 201511 yr by OzShrimp

thats the down side to hob filters, i clean my sponges maybe once every 3-4 months and never all at the same time and replace my filter wool in canister about every 6months to avoid impact on the system.

Lessen your WC to, when i cycle a tank i would probably only do 1 or so as everytime you are adding new water you are changing the conditions in the tank and imo affecting the establishment of the bacteria colony. Your bacteria colony is only going to be small cause your cycling therefor you want minimal impact whilst it grows.

 

Ever heard the saying a watched kettle never boils ? 

Really, 3-4 months?  I clean the ones on my fish tanks once a month so I had planned on doing the same for this tank.  Thanks for the info. I'll clean one of the three HOBs per month.

 

I agree about WCs, in fact in the last few tanks I have cycled, I have done at most 1 water change.  This is my first tank with ADA AS and I have read that it requires more frequent WCs during the cycle to leach out excess nutrients.  At this point I am hoping that the AS has stabilized.  I don't plan to do another WC until the cycle is finished unless the nitrates get too high.

 

It has been over 6 hours since I tested my WPs so I retested them.  The ammonia is 0 again and the nitrite and nitrates have increased slightly.  Maybe I didn't do as much damage as I feared.

 

Thanks again for the advice and comments.  I really appreciate the help.  It keeps me from constantly second guessing myself.

Yup but i have over filtration, currently i run a dual sponge filter, single sponge filter, 1250 canister filter running into a 800ltr canister, home made nitrate filter.. The 800 canister only has seachem matrix in it so big bacteria home which i dont need to touch, the 1250 has seachem matrix and filter wool.  

Yup but i have over filtration, currently i run a dual sponge filter, single sponge filter, 1250 canister filter running into a 800ltr canister, home made nitrate filter.. The 800 canister only has seachem matrix in it so big bacteria home which i dont need to touch, the 1250 has seachem matrix and filter wool.  

That's a lot of filtration.  Does your 800L canister have a pump or does the 1250 supply all of the flow?  If you have a picture, I would love to see it.

 

I got some Seachem Matrix to use in this tank.  After I bought it, I read on a couple of threads in other forums that it affects PH so I haven't used it .  Have you noticed anything negative regarding Matrix?

Day 35

The cycle continues to make progress and the otos are getting the fungus under control.  Also a couple of the mosses I thought might be overwhelmed by the fungus appear to be making a come back.  In other words, the tank is coming along nicely.  Thanks again to everyone who helped me get this far.

 

I forgot to mention that when I added the 3rd HOB I removed the air stone.  I think I have plenty of surface agitation with out it.

 

That's a lot of filtration.  Does your 800L canister have a pump or does the 1250 supply all of the flow?  If you have a picture, I would love to see it.

 

I got some Seachem Matrix to use in this tank.  After I bought it, I read on a couple of threads in other forums that it affects PH so I haven't used it .  Have you noticed anything negative regarding Matrix?

No not really but i dont test my wp's often unless i get a death. Other then that the only thing icheck is tds at wc. 

I have an eheim 2000lphr pump hooked up aswell that pumps it into the 1250 whih is also running, the 800 canister has t he impeller removed so that it does not restrict flow too much.

I got some Seachem Matrix to use in this tank.  After I bought it, I read on a couple of threads in other forums that it affects PH so I haven't used it .  Have you noticed anything negative regarding Matrix?

 

All rock or clay (ceramic) based filter media will increase the pH slightly (except those that are designed to bring down pH). You just need to wash them and age them before using them.

Edited February 2, 201511 yr by Shrimpy Daddy

I think my tank is about ready.  Here are my current WPs:

TDS: 134

GH: 5

KH: <1

PH: 6.6

Temp: 80.4°F

 

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 10ppm

 

My plan is to do a WC after work and then lower the temp to 75°F.  At that point my tank should be ready for shrimp, right?  If I place an order today, I should have them by Wednesday or Thursday.  

 

I have decided to get yellow/orange rilis.  The guy I am getting them from sells them in groups of 6.  I plan to buy 2 groups.  If he includes an extra shrimp with each batch I would be adding a max of 14 juvenile shrimp. That shouldn't over work the newly established bio filter, should it?

 

I am not sure why the nitrate level dropped from 25ppm to 10ppm.  Could the plants have absorbed that much in 24 hours?  I will test the nitrate level again before and after I do the water change.

Edited February 2, 201511 yr by wot_fan

Awesome stuff dude, definitely coming along nicely, can't wait to see the pics of the tank with your new shrimp in there!

Awesome stuff dude, definitely coming along nicely, can't wait to see the pics of the tank with your new shrimp in there!

Thanks .  I ordered 12 Orange/Yellow Rilis this afternoon.  They were pretty expensive so I hope I can keep them alive and happy.  I expect them to ship tomorrow and arrive the following morning.

 

I did a WC and lowered the temp.  I also added a mineral stone and a couple of indian almond leave pieces to the tank.  Everything should be settled by the time the shrimp arrive.  I'll post pics as soon as I have some worth posting.  

 

Thanks again for all your help.

All good dude, can't wait to see your new shrimp!

In my opinion 10 - 15 is a good starting point.

 

It will give you a good chance of getting males and females. I have heard some people buying 10 juvies and getting 10 males but that is pretty rare. If you are buying from a trusted source it should be fine. 

 

Just make sure you acclimatize your new shrimp slowly. There is a great post about acclimatizing shrimps in the forums.

In my opinion 10 - 15 is a good starting point.

 

It will give you a good chance of getting males and females. I have heard some people buying 10 juvies and getting 10 males but that is pretty rare. If you are buying from a trusted source it should be fine. 

 

Just make sure you acclimatize your new shrimp slowly. There is a great post about acclimatizing shrimps in the forums.

Thanks Disciple.  I purchased the shrimp from Alpha Pro Breeders (hope it is OK to post a link).  Based on the reviews I have read, the owner (Ron McGee) is a reputable breeder and a good guy to boot .  

 

I have read the thread you mentioned a couple of times.  I will probably read it a couple more before the shrimp arrive.  I don't want to make a mistake at this point.  Thanks again.

If shipping cost is not a problem for you, I will suggest to get 5 shrimps first.

 

Once they are doing fine for 3 to 4 weeks, then get more.

 

I treat shrimp as pet, thus I will feel bad if I kill them. Which why it is better to get 5 to test first. If your tank is good and they are getting enough nutrients, they should survive the first moult (it happens within 2 weeks after entering the new environment).

 

Given said that, if you are very experience shrimp keeper and know what you are doing, you could order as many as you like.

Edited February 3, 201511 yr by Shrimpy Daddy

If shipping cost is not a problem for you, I will suggest to get 5 shrimps first.

 

Once they are doing fine for 3 to 4 weeks, then get more.

 

I treat shrimp as pet, thus I will feel bad if I kill them. Which why it is better to get 5 to test first. If your tank is good and they are getting enough nutrients, they should survive the first moult (it happens within 2 weeks after entering the new environment).

 

Given said that, if you are very experience shrimp keeper and know what you are doing, you could order as many as you like.

It is pretty cold here now (14°F) so next day delivery is required.  That runs about $35/shipment.  It was one of the reason I ordered 12 shrimp.  It was a lot easier to stomach $3/shrimp shipping cost vs. $6/shrimp.

 

Since I already placed the order, I am going to have to do my best to keep them alive and happy.  I view my aquatic friends as pets as well.  I'm going to be really bummed if my preparation wasn't enough and I end up killing some or all of them. 

 

As far as being an experienced shrimp keeper, I am about as far from that title as you can get .  I am working on that though.

Thanks Disciple.  I purchased the shrimp from Alpha Pro Breeders (hope it is OK to post a link).  Based on the reviews I have read, the owner (Ron McGee) is a reputable breeder and a good guy to boot .  

 

I have read the thread you mentioned a couple of times.  I will probably read it a couple more before the shrimp arrive.  I don't want to make a mistake at this point.  Thanks again.

Wow the shrimp in the picture looks awesome.

 

Yeah I didnt think about it as Shrimpy Daddy just mentioned sometimes its good to send in the expendable troops in first just incase but I guess its too late anyways lol Good luck man!

 

Cherries are tough!

It is pretty cold here now (14°F) so next day delivery is required.  That runs about $35/shipment.  It was one of the reason I ordered 12 shrimp.  It was a lot easier to stomach $3/shrimp shipping cost vs. $6/shrimp.

 

Since I already placed the order, I am going to have to do my best to keep them alive and happy.  I view my aquatic friends as pets as well.  I'm going to be really bummed if my preparation wasn't enough and I end up killing some or all of them. 

 

As far as being an experienced shrimp keeper, I am about as far from that title as you can get .  I am working on that though.

 

Wish you good luck.

 

Not to scare you, just to let you know that your tank still need another 2 to 3 weeks before the entire ecosystem is stabilised. Hence, don't get panic when any shrimp dies. ;)

Edited February 3, 201511 yr by Shrimpy Daddy

Wish you good luck.

 

Not to scare you, just to let you know that your tank still need another 2 to 3 weeks before the entire ecosystem is stabilised. Hence, don't get panic when any shrimp dies. ;)

Thanks.  Is there anything you recommend I do (frequent small WCs?) for the next 3 weeks to keep the stress on the shrimp to a minimum?  For future reference, should I have waited 3 more weeks before adding shrimp?

Frequent WC will kill shrimp. Never do it. ;)

 

You can't do anything now. You only can pray for the shrimp.

Edited February 3, 201511 yr by Shrimpy Daddy

Frequent WC will kill shrimp. Never do it. ;)

 

You can't do anything now. You only can pray for the shrimp.

Good to know.  For a setup like mine, how often and what % of water should I change?

 

Thanks again for your help.  Your advice is saving me a lot a pain, not to mention $.

If you have Purigen in the filter and feed only once every 2 to 3 days, you could change 10% water every two weeks.

 

Make sure you have dim light (not too dim, just enough for moss to grow). If you have dim light and you see green algae appearing fast, then it means it is time to change water.

 

Recharge your Purigen every time two weeks when you are changing water. Don't wait for it to turn dark brown. It will be convenient if you have two pack. You could swap in the clean one when you are changing the water. The dirty one, you are able to take your time to recharge it. After recharge, put it in a ziplock bag and put at the least cold area in your fridge. If your tank does not have heater all year round, you may need to warm up the clean Purigen (when you take out of the fridge) by using lukewarm water.

If you have Purigen in the filter and feed only once every 2 to 3 days, you could change 10% water every two weeks.

 

Make sure you have dim light (not too dim, just enough for moss to grow). If you have dim light and you see green algae appearing fast, then it means it is time to change water.

 

Recharge your Purigen every time two weeks when you are changing water. Don't wait for it to turn dark brown. It will be convenient if you have two pack. You could swap in the clean one when you are changing the water. The dirty one, you are able to take your time to recharge it. After recharge, put it in a ziplock bag and put at the least cold area in your fridge. If your tank does not have heater all year round, you may need to warm up the clean Purigen (when you take out of the fridge) by using lukewarm water.

I already have an extra purigen bag so I am good to go.  I'll follow your advice to the letter. 

 

Thank you again!!!

I am officially a shrimp owner .  I have been drip acclimating them for a little over an hour now.  

The water the shrimp arrived in had the following WP

TDS: 202

GH: 9

KH: 2

Temp: 65°F

 

After an hour, the TDS has dropped to 167 and the temp has risen to 73°F.  I will continue acclimating them for another hour, maybe 2.

 

There is not much to see yet, but here is my drip acclimating setup.

 

Congrats. What shrimp did you get?

Pics of the shrimp?

Wahoo!! Fantastic stuff dude!