Jump to content

New Library Article - How to Combat Hydra in an Aquarium


NoGi

Recommended Posts

Hydra_oligactis.jpgAquariums make a wonderful hobby. They are soothing, interesting and can provide a lot of fun and entertainment. However, in order to make the most of your aquarium, taking proper care of it is exceptionally important. It must be maintained, and part of proper maintenance is understanding issues that can develop.

One of the side effects of improper aquarium maintenance is the development of pests, and Hydra oligactis – more commonly referred to as just hydra is one of the most dangerous. Also known as freshwater polyps, these pests hail from the Coelenterata family of aquatic invertebrates. They have a tubular body and a sticky foot located on one end and tentacles on the other end. The tentacles contain stinging cells, which the hydra uses to immobilize its’ prey.

Why Hydra are Dangerous in Aquariums

Though hydras are basic creatures that lack a brain, a respiratory system or even musculature, they are a real threat to aquariums. As mentioned, they use their stinging tentacles to immobilize their prey and are able to kill and eat fish fry and even adult fish. Additionally, they reproduce very quickly, creating buds that turn into new hydra that eventually break off on their own. And, though they do tend to stay in one place (using their sticky foot to secure them to a surface,) they can easily move around if they choose.

Given their ability to eat fish, how quickly they reproduce and that they can move about when they want, it’s easy to see why hydra are a real issue in an aquarium.

Treating Hydra in an Aquarium

Once an aquarium has infiltrated an aquarium, they can be hard to eradicate; however, getting rid of them is possible. The treatment for these pests depends on the extent of the infestation.

If the infestation is relatively small, you may actually be able to physically remove them. If they have taken up residence on plants and rocks, they can be killed by removing the plants and rocks and sock them in a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water for about 15 minutes. After soaking, rinse the plants and rocks with fresh water and let them air dry.

If you are looking for a less intrusive method of removal that will not disturb the aquarium, you can do so by introducing fish that will eat the pests. Mollies, Paradise fish and Spot (blue) Gouramis are known to favor hydra and can rid an aquarium of them.

Heat is another option that can be used to treat an infestation of hydra. With this treatment method, the fish must be removed from the tank first. Once they are removed, increase the temperature of the water to 40°C (104°F) for a few hours. This will essentially cook the hydra and kill them. Turn the temperature of the water down, clean the gravel and change the water. Ensure that the temperature of the water is safe for the fish before reintroducing them.

Chemicals and medicines can also be used to treat hydra; however, do keep in mind that they can be harmful to aquatic life. Copper Sulfate and Potassium Permanganate are two of the most common and safest options in fish only aquariums.

Also take a look at the following article regarding common medication used in aquariums:

Image credit: 

Wikipedia: Hydra oligactis


View full article

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      It has been a few weeks now and I have done a couple of large water changes. I tested the water parameters this morning, GH6 and KH2, TDS 140 and PH 7.5. Obviously the PH is off but there isn't anything in the tank that should cause the PH to rise to this figure so I will just run the tank for another month with 10% weekly water changes (probably just with RO water) and see where we are at that point. The RO water tests at PH6, and the KH and GH in the tank could come down as they are at the upper limits for Caridina shrimps! There are only about 10 very small snails in there at this point, but they seem to be doing well enough.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I believe these to be very rare in Australia so you may even consider making it a longer term plan and produce your own by starting with the best CRS you can get as that is where the pure lines started! Depends how patient and interested in the project you are, but would save money as well? If I recall correctly it takes from 8 generations of selective breeding? They sell them at micro aquatic shop but do not ship to Western Australia, but that means they are available in Australia. https://microaquaticshop.com.au/products/pure-red-line-grade-ss-shrimp Good luck and just maybe smeone on here may point you in the right direction or be able to supply you with some.
    • Jimmy
      Hi Guys,  Does anyone know where to buy PRL shrimps in WA, not the CRS please. Thanks Regards  
    • Subtlefly
      Yes it’s super accurate to position where I want now and stay there- I am satisfied.  All the fish and shrimpers are doing excellent! Coming up on 4 years running!
    • sdlTBfanUK
      You must be pleased with that, it looks better and is much more robust and less likely to damage or leaks! The tank looks very natural now it has been running for a time. I see the ember tetras, how are the blue shrimp doing, I see a few? The cat and dog look very content and unimpressed, lol.
×
×
  • Create New...