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Leaderboard

  1. Disciple

    Disciple

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  2. Squiggle

    Squiggle

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/18/15 in all areas

  1. Disciple
    Just wanted to do a little update. After my holiday and a few discussion with couple of shrimp breeders I have made some changes to my tank design. I have actual also gone down to the lfs to get it made. Back to a 4 foot length and divided into 3 sections. Instead of hooking it all up to a sump I will be using a combination on sponge, under gravel and a canister filters to filter the tank. To achieve this with out the need of multiple canister filters and chillers the partitions have the centre area cut out and covered in very fine mesh to allow the water flow between partitions. I have had second thoughts about the UGF because a post made by shrimpy daddy that mentions UGF causing lots of problems but I have bought all the equipment for it and I hope the way I been told to set it up will combat any issues, so I will see how it goes. Hopefully my next update will be when I have the tank and start setting it up. As always please feel free to provide your thought and feed back. Thanks.
  2. Squiggle
    Hmmmmm, I think I already know, lol
  3. smicko
    Hi all, something I've been working on is this type of tibee. Anyone else have or working on similar? I'm looking to get these breeding true to pattern. Cheers mick
  4. Disciple
    I was delighted to come home and find that my "crs" shrimplets have survived and are now juvies and a new batch of shrimplets have been swimming around. I am hoping this will be the start of my own "crs" colony. Unexpectedly I have also found Cbs shrimplets so I guess a mischling colony would be more appropriate. Here are some pictures. Thanks for looking. Just cause looked at my crappy here is bonus image of actually nice shrimp lol.
  5. linus84
    Damn shrimp secret service. Ill be glad to learn a bit more about the setup for a nice clean and funcional talk. Share ur cards xD
  6. Disciple
    Cheers man, I was a bit nervous but I think investing in the chiller and having my brother and sister come around to check on them paid off lol. Still when I first came home I didnt see any and was disappointed but the next day during feeding time I was pretty happy when they started coming out to eat.
  7. ShrimpDesigns
    Thanks for all your input everyone! I ended up purchasing a 9 litre bag of Africana powder even though its only a 30 litre tank I'm looking for some enourmous slopes. Probably will keep everyone updated with a journal. Louis
  8. Daydream
    1cm riversand other 2 just thrown on top some wood,moss and varied diet..
  9. Daydream
    My balls are best don't use any additives in my tanks substrate is 1cup shrimpsoil 1cup shellgrit 4lt of riversand washed from the nursery.No ro water just sediment and carbon filter from tap that I got at bunnings and don't use any other supplement powders.Have tb, tigers, tigerbee,crs ,cbs ,cherry and natives all breeding no probs by the sound of it I got balls.
  10. Shrimpy Daddy
    There are more problems created by UGF and not just nutrients trapped. In addition, if water constantly flowing through the substrate, there will not be enough acid recycle the nutrients too.
  11. Squiggle
    Brickleberry rocks! Rick & Morty's pretty funny too!
  12. Shrimpy Daddy
    I started off shrimp keeping with TB and most of my knowledge are with TB than other shrimps. As such, I would like to chip in my knowledge. TB and other soft water shrimp, such as CRS and CBS variants, absorb a lot of nutrients through water column. Since they are used to mild acidic water that has a lot of bioavailable nutrients, they are very inefficient in absorbing them when you compared them with Tiger shrimp. Hence, they will need an environment where there are enough H+ ion to reclaim the precipitated nutrients. However, having pH lower than 6 will create more problems. H+ ion will increase the oxidising effect and the shrimp will need more Calcium to combat it; cell will die easily from oxidation. Increasing the acidic of the water will tip some chemical equilibrium towards the acid side. For example, encouraging NO3 to form nitric acid that is toxic in large quantity. As such, the optimum pH for TB or any soft water shrimp will be 6.2 to 6.6. Given said that, I tested to keep them at the extreme end of pH 5.8 and 6.8 does not shown apparently adverse effect. If you are selecting ADA AS substrate for buffering, I will suggest you to go for Amazonia instead. Africana will be too acidic and later on, you have to put aragonite in the filter to prevent the pH from dropping that will kill shrimp. If you prefer aquasoil, you may explore other brands too. I had used Elos Terrablack and it is good too. Although not as rich as ADA AS when you are keeping plants, it is faster to setup (less leeching). There are many other brands out there, such as the Benibachi Squiggle mentioned. Just beware on those Taiwanese or Chinese brand. They usually leech a lot of acid on first week and became inert in the second week. Alternatively, you could go for inert substrate and buffer the water with peat filter media. The benefit of this is that you will be able to control the pH consistently by the amount of peat filter media, and inert substrate does not leech much stuffs (such as organics and silica) into the water column. The cons for inert substrate is that you will need to provide the shrimp with mineral via diet and water column. I don't think it is really a bad point because even Aquasoil will deplete shrimp usable nutrients within a few months (most of the nutrients are trapped under the substrate and only can be used by rooting stem plant). Hence even with aquasoil, you will need to supplement the shrimp with nutrients sooner than you would expect.
  13. ineke
    This is one I have -I thought it was a male but she is berried now- I have several others with a bit more white and also several black ones with the same markings. They are all just coming up to breeding size and once I'm sure of the sexes I'm going to experiment with what I breed them to.
  14. Gbang
    There are two people that I have to give credit to for teaching and helping me develop this technique. 1. Blue Bolt. He was my sensei and I was the grasshopper when I first lost a pregnant female. I was going to dispose the females and told him via sms from one friend to another and he said NOOOOO WAIT!!! He taught me how to cut crap up aka dissect the poor dead females. 2. African cichlid enthusiasts who strip a lot of eggs from mouthbrooders have shown me how to save and tumble eggs. OK so here's how to do it! step one - Grab a little container and lid to put the dead female in it. Get a cheap surgery/dissection kit (costs $30?) with a scalpel, or alternatively use two toothpicks and a blade. This is mine Now using the toothpick to hold the body, legs and head (one by one), cut off the body parts from the eggs and try to get almost every single milligram of meat away from the eggs. When you are done with that, slowly seperate each egg individually by using the toothpicks with each hand. It took me over 30 mins the first time, so yes this is a long process but worth it. I got it down to 10 mins by my third try. This is what the end result looks like (not for the faint hearted and it breaks my heart doing this every time. I have done it 6 times in the past year). With the eggs, you can siphon them out with a baby syringe or something similar. You can tumble the eggs in two ways, both have been very successful for me. method one_ Place the eggs in a one litre circular container with an airstone that will tumble the eggs. Be careful with the amount of bubbles; enough for them to constantly move BUT NOT LIKE A WASHING MACHINE! To help prevent fungus, add two to three drops of methyl blue. method two, my prefered method. Get a breeding box where the water is constanly running. Using a baby strainer, add the eggs into it with an airstone below and let the air bubbles tumble the eggs. ...and there you have it. Always keep a look out for fungused or unfertilized eggs. Remove eggs if they are opague or look a little bit like cotton. Good luck to all you fellow shrimpies out there. Remember, always look for a positive in anything that goes wrong, cause there's usually one :) p.s the last photo was of a recent death a week ago. i will post up a photo of the babies when they hatch as proof of this method and there u go! so far, half are hatched they are at the top left. and so tiny~!!! there u go guys. all hatched

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