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  1. Dear SKFA, Moderators on SKFA are allocated a larger limit for Attachments and Private Messages (PM) in order to assist the forum members. However, when that moderator retired and went back to a normal Member account their limits for Attachments and Private Messages would revert to the normal membership limits. Thereby crippling the ex-moderators ability to continue contributing to the forum with new attachments or PMs. The only option previously was to delete attachments from past posts, so that space is made available to upload new attachments. It is not in the interest of SKFA to have the content and posts from these great contributors to be deleted if the ex-moderator wanted to continue to contribute to the forum as a normal member. The site Administrator and the current SKFA Mods have come to an agreement to honour past contributors, like ex-moderators, who have made a significant contribution to this forum by creating a special account called "Hall of Fame". @ineke becomes our first Hall of Fame (HOF) inductee! Ineke's account will be given a unique ability to post additional Attachments and PMs above the normal Member account limits. Hall of Fame account holders will be donated by the "HOF" acronym below their name and avatar. Hopefully this encourages ex-SKFA moderators to continue to be valuable Members in this community without hampering their ability to upload attachments or PMs. Limits to normal Member and Platinum Member accounts remain unchanged. Please note: that nomination into the Hall of Fame account is at the discretion of the SKFA site Admin and Mods only. Self nominations will not be accepted.
    4 points
  2. Ok today I come with pics. Still super distracted buying plants, building out my shrimp/plant room and getting ready for this business season. Oh and fighting hydra. Nearly usable, going to run 2x dimmable 600 hps and a supplemental led. Ok I'm getting distracted and forgot to post. Midnights and Clockworks. Gotta go buy plants and build my room. It's my birthday!
    4 points
  3. I started emptying my nano tank today, I've been transferring my shrimp to the new set up for a few weeks now. I took out a large clump of Christmas moss that I had in there and placed it in a dish of aquarium water to see if anything was still in it. I was amazed at the number of baby shrimp that were in it. I put them in their new home and thought that was that. I went back a short while later and looked under the moss and there was another lot of babies. I've just checked for the third time and found the two smallest shrimp that I've seen in my life. I expected them to start small, but these are miniscule. I didn't want to put the moss directly into the new tank as it's also hiding a lot of snails.
    4 points
  4. Let the tank cycle for 18 days and got the water parameters to where I wanted them. Added some new residents 5 days ago. Already had 2 molt!
    4 points
  5. I can only speak to the short moves i have done...which I think would apply to anything up to a day's travel. I just drained the tanks down to about 20% of capacity....more if needed to lower the weight so I could carry them....then just unhook...move...hook back up at destination and that's about it. I mean it all depends on specifics....so long as them temps are allowed to stay in what a human would typically be comfortable at....good to go. Good luck! Oh...and just try and minimize agitation of the tank and water as much as possible when carrying.
    4 points
  6. Oh yes definitely get a picture somehow. Simon. I'm pretty sure adults will be safe with my Betta, he won't even eat bloodworm! He just watches it float past his nose. He's only interested in his Betta food, shrimp pellets if the same size not the bigger ones and the odd tiny protein treat that I have to drop almost on top of him. Maybe he's shortsighted?? 🤣
    4 points
  7. Yeah that’s not a problem because I have to take the inlet end of once a week or two to remove any waste that wasn’t able to get in. The spaces in the end cap are less than a mm ive had week old snails all over it and they have had zero problems but I would rather be on the safe side with the shrimp thanks again
    3 points
  8. Set up the new tank how you like it to end up looking and start the Nitrogen cycling process. Add another sponge filter in the existing 15Ltr tank right now, so bacteria start to grow on it. This filter will be transferred to the new tank after a month. Any water change done in the 15ltr tank should be dumped into the new 64ltr tank. Once the new tank is cycled and the parameters are close to the old tank, you can start acclimation of the shrimp to the new tank.
    3 points
  9. No Problem. Ask more questions, if in doubt. We were all new to shrimp keeping once upon a time, so I understand that some people have a lot of questions. But we can't help if people don't ask. You might have to do daily water changes until Beneficial Bacteria start growing in your tank. I highly suggest you look at purchasing 1) Ammonia test kit. 2) Nitrate test kit. 3) Beneficial bacteria in a bottle. Let us know what options you have of purchasing this. There are some better brands and some that don't work. Ideally, if you can get a friend to squeeze their filter media into a bucket for you, that will be the best method of seeding your tank with millions of beneficial bacteria. Pour that gunk straight into your tank and you will boost the cycling period of your tank. Have you got that GH/KH+ mineraliser for your rainwater yet? Use the Prime during your water change. Even though you are using rainwater that should not have chlorine, the Prime will help bind ammonia and turn it into something less harmful. Still not the best for shrimp, but at least it will help slow the deaths. Please note however, the shrimps have already been exposed to a lot of ammonia, so anything we do now might be too late, but it's still worth a try.
    3 points
  10. You give yourself less credit than you deserve. You would know a lot more than the average shrimpkeeper, just by the fact that you hang out here so often. Everything we discuss would have been absorbed. But yes, I also agree, these are not tiger shrimp at all.
    3 points
  11. Simon's reply is correct. Rainwater is like RO water and has close to no minerals. You need to add those minerals back into the rainwater for living creatures like shrimp or fish. Getting the GH/KH+ remineraliser is the right move. And I would also back up that advice to not add additional Tetra Aqua Safe or Prime unless you are using tapwater, or need to remove ammonia. You just don't need to use these chemicals for rainwater. And the less chemicals in the tank, the better for the beneficial bacteria and shrimp. Vorticella. And the picture you provided confirms it. Have a read of our Diseases and Diagnostics thread on this forum. Remove the shrimp and place it in a salt bath as per the instructions in that post.
    3 points
  12. Bloodworms are larvae of midges (mosquito-like flies without the "pronger") The adults lay eggs in the water that look like little sacks of jelly. You sometimes see them hanging from the water surface or stuck to the edges of the bucket. You can wipe the "jelly" off and put it in your tank and when the larvae hatch they are great fry food.... but if you dont have enough fish to eat them they may live in the tank and emerge to fly around your house.
    3 points
  13. Haha that’s awesome, sounds just like my apistos. Not even just wanting food, but they even seem like they just want human interaction, which is the most fascinating thing, and I think bettas are the same. Definitely gonna keep that in mind for the breeding! I think they both are now. Slowly but surely. Here are the pics by the way. Jupiter was my betta that passed away, and he’s in the album, but the two new ones are the Red Galaxy and the Koi (I’m not quite sure what she’d be classified as to be honest, but I’ll stick with koi for now).
    3 points
  14. So the male arrived a couple days ago. He’s been really shy, but I finally just got him to come out and interact with me. He seems really interested in the guppy fry that are in a breeder box, but I’m not sure if he’s interested in them as friends or food 😄 I have noticed he swims rather vertically, in comparison to my female, at least. Not sure if that’s somewhat normal? He spends most of his time (when he’s not being skittish and chilling at the bottom) between 30° and 70° diagonally oriented (mouth up). He kinda looks like me when I try to float on my back in a swimming pool; when he stops moving, his tail just kind of falls. Whereas my female has complete control of her body and when she stops moving, she’s just perfectly still. The male also makes these odd occasional twitching movements. I have no clue what that’s all about or what it means. Doesn’t seem like a big deal to me, but I don’t want to miss anything that could be a worry. Anyways, besides all that, I’ve finally got both of them eating, and they seem pretty happy. Unfortunately, the female endler ended up passing away, which I was pretty devastated about. On a lighter note, I also got some Darwin nerites, and a microworm culture. I’m loving the nerites, and my fish are loving the microworms. I think they’re looking forward to summer, when I can feed them mosquito larvae again. I’ll start up an album in the gallery and pop in some pics of my pretty little bettas and their nerite friends, and link it here, if anyone is interested. I’m partially writing this just so I can have it as a bit of a fish diary for my bettas, to keep track of everything and make sure I don’t miss patterns etc.
    3 points
  15. I have gone through the thread and bolded and enlarged the products so that it is easier to read/follow/find etc. I haven't touched anything else! Simon
    3 points
  16. live foods are always better me thinks!!! BUT if you can't get any live worms then the freeze dried work well -I resorted to these to feed my fry after 3 weeks I think - I only recommended the black worm farm because it's australian and the freeze dried cubes definitely don't seem to have anything else in them. my fish ate them everytime offered but when I used the other types of dried worms like red worms or tubifex they weren't as interested. That's been my experience but I'm not an expert so read as much as you can and remember as with shrimp what works really well for 1 breeder might not work for another. I was a complete beginner as far as breeding Bettas is concerned and had enormous success but I was flying blind so to speak and maybe it was just beginners luck. I didn't try again and the next time might have been completely different. Just have fun and enjoy what you are doing. If what you are doing works then great if not try again -it's a hobby to enjoy and any success if great but it's all a big learning curve. I would absolutely love to do it again but I know my limitations . Even looking after 3 tanks takes a toll on me and water change day means carrying 8 buckets of water plus leaning over to clean the glass etc and the next day I'm like an old granny walking around- but wait I am an old granny LOL - I'm extremely sore and have to take it easy. Hubby has offered to do it for me but it's my hobby so I want to do it. Typical stubborn old woman me!!!!
    3 points
  17. I remember you saying this Simon! In my research recently, I found that it’s possible for females to actually change their sex to become male! That may have been what you experienced. It’s really quite fascinating. I’ll make sure to read jayc’s betta advice again over the weekend in case I forgot anything. Glad to hear yours is still doing well! With the shrimp I’m being a little optimistic, but the shrimp is a tough bugger, and the tank has many spaces where he can hide and the betta won’t be able to touch him (thank goodness for cholla wood 😅). Hopefully it won’t come to that. Oh I thought you could only use live foods for conditioning. I’ve got a few stores nearby that stock freeze-dried black worms, I might give it a go. If the bettas don’t like it, I’m sure my other fish will. Might be a good prompt to get one of those feeder cups too, they seem pretty handy. So… I took too long to order them and they both sold 😢 Going to get a similar male from the same place, but I think I’ll get a female from a local breeder instead, as the online place doesn’t have any other females I really like. Hopefully I can get some extra tips from the breeder. Anyways, once I get them I’ll start my own topic. Thanks to both of you for your help.
    3 points
  18. Thank you so much. This is really awesome especially under the circumstances. I intend to be more active on the forum again so being able to use pictures makes it even more enticing to put in an appearance. Thanks again
    3 points
  19. Ha good try JayC . Not sure if I’m ready to come back as moderator just yet. I did delete a few pictures from a long way back but they weren’t good or clear pictures. I’m sure we will eventually find a way to enable me to post pictures again - well hopefully anyway.
    3 points
  20. Are you sure you have a male as I imagine femaesstill produce eggs whether there is a male or not (same as humanns, chickens etc) and may have dropped them because they weren't fertilised? With so few shrimp the chances are they may be same sex and they are different types so won't be able to breed with all of them? Try looking close and seeing if you can see what sex they are? https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/14104-telling-male-from-female-shrimp/ Simon
    3 points
  21. Beautiful shrimp. Show us more of your progress with the shrimp room.
    3 points
  22. Sadly my yellow shrimp did lose her eggs. However weeks later she got berried again! These shrimps are truly amazing! 1st pic: coming soon!! 2nd pic: when different breeds from different backgrounds come together Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
    3 points
  23. Ooh excited to see how that mischling breeding goes! I have a recently molted EBB Female in this juvie colony of Princes and Clockwork Oranges so... Could be some weird mischlings here too. I got sidetracked by my new septi-annual passion, rare houseplants. Slow progress towards a 8'x10' shrimp/plant room in the shop. But the Midnights and Clockworks showed up today. Lemme potato these pics and I'll get some up.
    3 points
  24. Were the 2 that died the ones with Scut on them? do you have an ammonia test? Check ammonia levels. In fact, check all water parameters and let us know what your tests results are. No planaria will kill off these parasites, and that can cause a spike in ammonia with all the dead parasites. But that depends on how many of them were in the tank/substrate. Always do a water change a day after treatment. If you still have Scut in the tank on your shrimps, a half dose of No Planaria is safer and should still be affective in dealing with parasites. I feel Genchem's dosage recommendation can be a bit too high to be honest. From a product marketing point of view, they want you to use up more than necessary and buy more, but it's not necessarily safe for all shrimps. Always start with a half dose for anyone else reading.
    3 points
  25. Well I got the ro water from big al curb side pick up and lol of course 3 red crystals.... I did a top off and all seems ok. Saw 3 small babies today. Their mom are raccoons tigers and father? Who knows. It seems raccoon tigers are like rabbits always seem to get berried fast.... the black crystal still berried so maybe I have some from her soon too. I added magnolia leaves. I’m hoping for more berried females. Question does juvenile patterns change as they grow? One of the shrimps was very black when I got it but now the white part seems to be expanding....one of the new ones similar it opposite looks more red then white and I’m wondering if that will change too
    3 points
  26. Wow that some nice shrimp. I love all of them, especially that Blue Fishbone. Wish we could get them here in Australia as easily ... at a reasonable price. But we can't due to strict quarantine rules about bringing in live animals.
    3 points
  27. So far so good she and a raccoon still berried:)
    3 points
  28. Well guys, thanks for your help. Just a small update. It seems that dosing the tank with oxytetracycline worked like a charm. Haven't had a single death since then, and all shrimps have grown so much! At one point I had 5 berried shrimps! Some have given birth, one molted and lost shrimps, but all good! Look at them feasting and munching!
    3 points
  29. Its obviously found itself a little hideaway as I didn't see it for a while, but it popped out today when I fed the shrimp. Nothing in there to bother it and the water must suit it so hopefully it'll grow to maturity.
    3 points
  30. Hello, I've just recently started keeping red cherry shrimp. I thought it's time I join a shrimp forum so here I am 🙂 currently I have 9 red cherry shrimp and 1 blue ramshorn snail in a planted setup. Hello to everyone and nice to meet you. Ps. Here's a pic of some of them
    3 points
  31. I hope that’s what it is. I got a good look at it last night and it definitely could be. I’m amazed at it hatching after coming through the post. I’ll try and get a photo if it comes to the front of the tank. Thanks for the reply.
    3 points
  32. I wanted to share this experience in the hopes it is helpful to others. I have a 5 gal tank that I have had for a while...with Painted Fire RCS. It was neglected (long story) and got down to one inhabitant. I restocked from an online source only to find stowaway copepods that multiplied significantly. When I notified the supplier they did indicate they have had some issues with copepods but were also dismissive to say "they are not harmful". Well, that is true and it is not. They may not pose a threat to the shrimp...but I do not maintain shrimp tanks to be infested with unwanted pests. So I debated what to do including potentially starting up another tank...transferring shrimp and break down my main tank. Then I read that someone had some good luck with eliminating copepods with Chili Rasporas acting as assasins. I was gonna go that route...but those are hard to come by and quite pricey...somewhere around $30 or so for a handful of fish. So I decided to go a similar route with neon tetras and an albino cory. The thinking was the cory would patrol the lower tank and the neons would take care of any copepods above. I went to my LFS thinking I would get 3 neons....decided to up it to 5 cuz they like to school and the clerk inadvertantly got 7 in the bag and at $1.25 per or so I said sure just keep them. I put the 7 neons and the sole albino cory into the shrimp tank after acclimating them all...and lets just say magic ensued. Within hours I could barely see a copepod and previously they were everywhere. Not wanting to risk the assasins eating shrimplets I transplanted 4 of the neons after about 12 hours and at 24 hours transplanted the remaining neons to leave the cory on duty. Throughout this I did observe the neons going after copepods even some that were hiding in the substrate. I plan to leave the cory in there for a while longer at which point I will decide whether to keep him there...but likely some point transplant him as well. I will post updates on future developments...but the copepod infestation really bothered me and at the moment I am happy with the outcome.
    3 points
  33. Maybe a newborn corydoras? That ticks all the boxes. They're an egg scattering species, so maybe there was an egg on the Subwassertang? It's super cool either way. I remember getting excited to see eggs on a crypt, when I first started fishkeeping. I thought they were fish eggs.... :( I coulda prevented my snail problems so easily then.
    3 points
  34. Hi Jayc, many thanks sorry for the late reply iv'e been away and just returned, always nice to meet people. Regards Micky
    3 points
  35. Hi all! Thanks for having me here on skf. I used to use this forum a lot under another name (ShrimpDesigns I think it was). But admitedly started using Facebook groups a lot more. Seems like there is still plenty of names around that I recognise which is great to see! Anyway, im back now and hope to share some good stuff with you all. Currently Keeping: - Fire Reds - Green Jades - Blue Dreams - Yellows - Sunkists Wishlist: - Red Spotted Head German Pinto - Blue Bolts - King Kongs - Many more Taiwan Bees also, but ill keep it at that for now 🙂
    3 points
  36. That looks like blue-green algae, Cyanobacteria. It does quite quickly all across your aquarium and is extremely hard to get out. I recommend taking that piece of hornwort out (or at least trimming that part off), and maybe looking into how to get rid of it if it does start spreading more.
    3 points
  37. Thank you for all the help. I believe the issue was a bacteria. Deaths have stopped so far. Shrimps are very active, they keep molting and there's still 1 berried female. I keep doing water changes until it cycles, and half the tank doesn't have the fuzzy white thing anymore. The other part does still.
    3 points
  38. I picked up a school of ember tetras and I’d see them hunting pods all the time. Although I don’t have shrimp babies to see whether or not they eat those Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3 points
  39. No deaths today either. Shrimps have definitely become very active. I don't see any returning to normal colors but they seem to be moving around a lot. 2 mommas have birth, only 1 still berried. Sooooo, you can imagine that the tank is full of miniature neos.
    3 points
  40. Oregano oil (Carvacrol), not flakes as in leaves of oregano. The one drop of oil is a concentrate of hundreds of leaves. But you can try to see if your shrimp will eat oregano leaves. Either dried or fresh. Oregano has very effective anti bacterial qualities. So eating even dried oregano will help the shrimps. One thing to note is that once you have this bacteria that causes the rust disease in your tank, it's going to be there until you break down the tank and sanitise the whole thing including gravel, substrate, rocks, plants, filter, filter media, everything. There is a chance that the shrimps will catch it again. So feeding them food infused with oregano oil occasionally will help eliminate the bacteria internally.
    3 points
  41. If breeders cull their shrimp, they will sell them as high grade shrimp, and charge more for it. But you still have to cull if you start off with good quality starting shrimp. You'll generally get a mix - some higher, and some lower grade shrimp, no matter what the parents are. Obviously with higher grade parents, the offspring will be much more likely to have high grade colouration. The reason we cull is to increase the quality of the genetics, so a bad quality one doesn't breed with a high quality and bring down the general quality. Does that answer your question?
    3 points
  42. Welcome Anja. Nice tank. Don't forget to cover up the filter inlet with a prefilter sponge or floss before you put shrimps in there. Good on ya for researching before jumping to getting shrimp. As with a fish tank, the most important start is to understand the Nitrogen cycle and make sure you cycle your new tank properly before adding any shrimp or fish. Just letting a tank run for 1 month, doesn't mean it is cycled. 😉
    3 points
  43. Thank you! It's so nice to see an active forum these days. I have one empty small tank, will measure it later, I'm not sure how big it is. I'm thinking red cherry (it's the only species I can buy here, and based on my recent research, it should be good species to start with). I'll start a new topic here when I measure that tank, because I have so many questions about setup and everything needed for shrimps to thrive.
    3 points
  44. Hi everyone! My name is Anja, and I live in Banja Luka, Bosnia and Herzegovina. I'm not new in fishkeeping, although I've never had shrimps. I want to set up a tank for them in March, so I've signed up here to lean about their needs before that. Right now, I have a 40l tank with Gymnocorymbus Ternetzi, and one 250l tank that is unfortunately still empty (don't have enough money right now for equipment, but I plan to make it a Southamerican biotope with Pterophyllum Scalare once I collect enough money for that). Here's the picture of my 40l tank :) edit - picture is taken before I put fish in it, so that's why they can't be seen
    3 points
  45. Those are the extremities of the range where they will survive. You don't want to be near those extremes. Lifespan will be greatly reduced. Keeping it to the ranges we suggest will mean the shrimp are living in a more tolerable conditions. It also means you leave room for swings either way with enough time to catch it and correct it. It's like saying "Humans like 10deg C to 50deg C." That statement is correct and incorrect at the same time. Yeah, we might survive in those temperatures, but we certainly prefer it to be 20-26deg C. I certainly don't like 50Deg C temps. Likewise with shrimp. When GH is too high, the excessive calcium content will make moulting more difficult, and the shrimp expends too much energy trying to shed their old shells. This is a number one cause of deaths apart from bacterial infection. The high calcium content also makes the eggs harder and males trying to fertilise eggs becomes an issue. When GH is at the opposite spectrum of the scale and is too low, their shells are not going to be strong enough and you might get deformities. KH impacts your water parameter like pH. When KH is too high, your pH increases. When KH is too low, pH drops. The key to to maintain stability wit your water parameter. Just enough KH to get the right pH reading with out it swinging wildly in a short amount of time. Settling on a value of 2-4 dGH for KH is the Goldilocks number. Just enough to get pH to the right value, not too much and not too little. Keeping water parameters at the extreme ends of their tolerance will also result in a stressed shrimp, leading to lower immunity and increased possibility of catching diseases.
    3 points
  46. I mean if it isn't a long drive, and your tanks are small enough, you could just drain most of the way and leave a little bit of water. Glad to help! I'll keep the thread updated as I move. Thanks Jayc! Great advice. Since I'm not moving far at all, I'll just plug in my regular air pump at each end, and not bother for the drive. I'll definitely use everything else though! Cheers!
    3 points
  47. Invest in a battery operated air pump for the fish and shrimps. That way, you can put them into a bucket that has a lid. Using a lid will stop any water splashing out during the trip. You can make a small hole on top of the lid to fit an airhose, so the lid closes properly. I have this USB powered air pump for emergencies... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Portable-Mini-USB-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Oxygen-Air-Pump-Mute-Energy-Save-Compressor-/153725741661 I can plug them into any USB battery pack or even directly into USB ports in cars. Make sure your glass tanks are safely supported by placing them on soft padding, like old blankets, carpet or similar. Placing them into a car, van or truck unsupported might crack the base of the tank. It's important to keep your Beneficial Bacteria alive for the move. Any gravel you have should be in a bit of tank water, just enough to keep them moist. If you have sponge filters, remove the weighted part and place the sponge into the bucket with the fish and airstone. Filter media in an external filter can be removed and placed in bucket with tank water. Never let it dry out. An airstone in this bucket for the filter media is also a good idea since BB are living organisms that need oxygen. Don't feed the fish/shrimp 24 hours before the move - this reduces ammonia produced for the trip. I suppose everything else is common sense. Some people might have a long trip to make and have to do a pit stop. Don't leave the fish in a bucket in a car on a super hot day for too long.
    3 points
  48. I think that one might have either Milk Disease or Muscular Necrosis. I don't know a lot about them but I can share this site and this forum's own discussion about shrimp diseases. https://aquariumbreeder.com/understanding-dwarf-shrimp-diseases-and-parasites/
    3 points
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