Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay?    I do have an RO system already, and I could  remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate.    Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ?    Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby. 
    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
    • Zoidburg
      By Zoidburg
      Short info...

      I'm in USA
      I got these from a pet store
      They were being sold as something they clearly are not
      Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see)
      *NOT* Neocaridina
      *LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks*

      I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...)
       
      Female
       

      Male
       

       
      And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear)

       
       
       
       
      And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
       

    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      Recently decided to invest in an RODI unit to improve the quality of the water in my shrimp tanks and reduce the margin for any catastrophic deaths. However, sadly my LFS doesn't seem to carry anymore SS Bee Shrimp GH+ minerals. The owner does however have the fish version for soft-water environments and he claims that there isnt a difference. The dosage amount seems similar between the two as well. Does anyone have any experience with using it with shrimp?
       The packaging looks like this in case anyone was wondering!
      Thanks in advance!!
    • ErinF
      By ErinF
      Hi! 
      I know this has probably been asked a million times before but my shrimp keep dying and it's truely a mystery and being very new to shrimp keeping I'm hoping someone can help. Sorry this is long, tia! 
       
      I cycled my 21L tank for 2 months with plants (anubias on driftwood and hair grass with some floating rotala) I use Seachem Prime and Stability. 
       
      I tested everything and all was fine (we keep fish so I'm not new to water parameters just shrimp) I put in 3 large natives (pictured) and a pack of 10 glass shrimp I ordered from livefish.
       
      All of the glass died within the week but the natives (transferred over from my housemates tank) are still thriving and have even shed the other week and grew a little. I feed algae wafers every 3 days and Hikari shrimp cuisine every second.
       
      Did a small water change last week (10-15%) and on the weekend put in 2 cherries and 3 glass from an aquarium shop in. One of the cherries is dead and the others except 2 are hiding and I havnt seen them since the first day. 
       
      I've noticed a few detritus worms on my glass, could it be an oxygen issue? Temp is at 23°c same as housemates tank but the aquarium shop didn't seem to have a heater and livefish sent the glass in bags that arrived cold I floated the bags and let a little of my water in for about 40 mins before setting them free.



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
    • jayc
      It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
×