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Shrimp Diseases and Diagnosis

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fishmosy
On 28 September 2013 at 1:30 AM, jayc said:

Parasites:

These might not necessarily be detrimental to the shrimp.
Many live in a symbiotic relationship with the shrimp as can be seen in wild shrimp.
But if it was me, I say burn them parasites!

(Scutariella):
conv_4317.jpgconv_4326.jpg
Scuterella1.jpgScutariella2.jpg


Leeches (I have no idea what this one is called):
conv_4328.jpgconv_4329.jpgconv_4330.jpgconv_4331.jpg

Treatment is the same as Vorticella.
Known cures: Salt bath with aquarium salts. Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine.
Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water).
Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the parasite drops off, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water) to allow easier re-treatment.

Another treatment that has been known to work is Genchem's "No Planaria".
Use half the Dosage as per instructions on the packaging of No Planaria.
Duration: 3 days, although you might see the pests disappear after one day, continuing treatment will ensure any unseen parasites are also killed.
Perform a water change at the end of No Planaria treatment.
Watch for ammonia spike and treat if necessary.

Similarly, Benibachi Planaria Zero well also work in killing these parasites.

Another product that might be useful in treating these pests is a product called "Internal Parasite Clear" by Guangzhou Bigfish Aquarium Corp.

I can confirm 'Internal Parasite Clear' works well to get rid of Scutariella. I used three doses, each dose three days apart, and each dose half the rate reccomended on the bottle. The Scutariella were gone on the first dose but I did the extra two doses to be sure. I didnt notice any adverse effects on the shrimp. 

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jayc

Thanks for the confirmation @fishmosy

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anthonyd

Picture of one of my  Prl suffering from a bacterial infection. Notice the bottom of the segment missing and the poor colouration.

127857received1095421543821250.jpg

Picture of a molt using a microscope. The orange part is the melanisation deposit.

428448received1095421570487914.jpg

Edited by anthonyd
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Zoidburg

Just to update this thread/add more information....

 

I have used Fenbendazole (dog dewormer, 22% Fenbendazole) to treat a *tiny* outbreak of scutariella in a tank. Rather than doing a salt dip on each individual shrimp I saw with the parasites, I chose to treat the entire tank. Worked like a charm! I did a half dose at night, then the other half in the morning, of 0.1 gram per 10 gallons. Made the tank a milky cloudy color, and the shrimp even ate some of the Fenbendazole, but seemed unaffected by it... scutariella were killed off at least, and no further treatments were done.

The liquid suspension sold for goats or Fish-Bendazole will also work, however they have different doses per 10 gallons.

 

As far as ellobiopsidae go... there is hope!!!! This this is a parasite that attaches to the outside of the shrimp and forms "roots" into their carapace (if my understanding of how they grow is correct... unless it's an internal parasite that burrows it's way out... also possible?), we need to treat it like an internal parasite. It may sound odd, but apparently the best method may be medicated food using products like Kordon Rid Ich+! Article here....

https://www.discobee.com/blogs/news/the-dreaded-green-fungus-ellobiopsidae-neocaridina-shrimp-parasite-and-how-to-cure-it

Edited by Zoidburg
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SSJChar

I believe two of my blue velvet shrimp have a bacterial infection(opaque and much more quite compared to the others). i originally thought thats just how they were but i'd rather be safe. i plan on using hydrogen peroxide to treat the tank with the instructions listed in this thread, but do i do water changes between each day? and if so how much? i will try to take a picture of one of the shrimp later today

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Zoidburg

You don't need to do water changes between treatments. Hydrogen peroxide is H202, which has one more oxygen atom than water, which is H2O. Once it breaks down, it becomes water and air. It's kept in dark containers to try and keep it's chemical properties. When exposed to light, it decomposes.

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jayc
On 18 June 2017 at 8:35 AM, SSJChar said:

do i do water changes between each day?

What zoidburg said.

Do your water changes to keep the water clean and free of pathogenic bacteria. But you don't need to do water changes to get rid of h2o2, as mentioned, it breaks down into water.

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Kingo
On 07/11/2014 at 11:14 AM, jayc said:

Cheers Keego.

 

Doing what I can to keep this info relevant and updated.

Mate, just wanted to thank you for your efforts in this thread! Such a wealth of information in one spot. Keep up the great work legend!

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jayc
6 hours ago, Kingo said:

Mate, just wanted to thank you for your efforts in this thread! Such a wealth of information in one spot. Keep up the great work legend!

Thanks Bro. Even if it helps one person, it's worth it.

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davefoc

This is an image of a shrimp ( Palaemonetes paludosus?) from a local pond and a zoomed in image of what might be some kind of parasites growing on the shrimp's exoskeleton.  The growths are white irregular star shaped structures with a red dot in the center. What are they? Are they some kind of parasite or perhaps a normal part of the shrimp? Thanks in advance. This is my first post in this forum and I hope that my post is appropriate for it.

Link to a higher resolution version of the image: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hn7XXRo74sdWs7rj2

IMG_0245reduced.JPG

shrimpStarStructure2.jpg

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buck

I always thought that was just how a few of the native glass type shrimp looked with the glittery specs and brownish spangles 🤷🏽‍♂️

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jayc

@davefoc Firstly, very nice photo in the link you provided. High res, macro shot and is in focus ... really appreciated especially to see what we are trying to diagnose.

I assume this shrimp has been wild caught.

A lot of microorganisms live on shrimp's carapace in a symbiosis ... a close and long-term biological interaction between two different biological organisms, be it mutualistic or parasitic. 

This however, doesn't look parasitic, as that is one healthy looking shrimp.

Since it is on the surface of the carapace only. And should be gone by the next time the shrimp moults. 

This could be nothing more than a type of non invasive fungus or lichen.

Just keep giving this shrimp a clean tank and regular water changes.

Edited by jayc

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Kingo

Another great thread here. I recently have had a few fatalities in a neo tank, and have had necrosis suggested. Shrimp have lost their colour and have developed a yellowish hue across their backs, larger than the normal saddle line. 

Does this look like the symptoms to anyone else? They don’t appear simililar to the previous images. 

Tank cycled at 7 weeks prior to adding stock. 25 litre nano. 

PH: 7.2

TDS: 330 (treated RO waste)

NH3: 0

NO2: 0

NO3: 10-15

Temp: 20’C

BA8A596D-F8D2-431A-A3BA-A23EC7D423D1.jpeg

93B93D9C-C78C-4088-86B4-F078C5B5276D.jpeg

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jayc

Can you isolate them into a breeder box?

That will allow you to take much closer shots. Side shots.

do you also have healthy specimens to compare with?

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Kingo

I just realised those images were fairly poor as I added them. Both breeders and air is all set up on other tanks atm - I don’t want to risk contaminating my BM’s. 

Heres some others with the macro lense...

862C5181-5670-4CCE-ADA7-B14157A3F6DF.jpeg

47A8A3E5-DCA2-497A-8BD9-4B075E3A5F4A.jpeg

2272E5C7-E969-4F3F-84E6-8EAC2057A81F.jpeg

AFC6CF71-38E4-48AB-A38A-434A3B8AED18.jpeg

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jayc

@Kingo, I don't think it is muscular necrosis, as seeing in this picture ...

862C5181-5670-4CCE-ADA7-B14157A3F6DF.jpeg

the head does not have the same muscular tissue, but yet has also got the same discolouration.

It might be something else entirely.

How do these shrimp behave? Are they lethargic in any way? or are they still swimming around.

 

Edited by jayc
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Kingo

They don’t appear to be lethargic, and are still grazing. The symptoms are the discolouration and two deaths. Shrimps have been in this tank for 25 days.

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Kingo

Has anyone successfully treated necrosis? I have my first small colony of sunkists for a few months and pretty bummed to have ~ 1 fatality a week due to (my uneducated and over googled diagnosis) of necrosis. I am currently trialing 50% PWC every 2nd day. Params are:

NItrates: ~ 5

Temp: ~ 27

KH - 4

GH - 6

PH - ~ 7.7

TDS ~ 240

 

 

9E3C74CD-514B-4BC5-A479-9A1C9508985A.jpeg

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jayc
3 hours ago, Kingo said:

Has anyone successfully treated necrosis?

Not that I can confirm.

You can try Oregano Oil (Carvacrol), can be bought at health food stores around Aus.

Dilute one drop with 2 drops of water.

Soak food pellets in the oil and drop it into the tank.

Oregano Oil is strong stuff that will kill bacteria. Since it's internal infection, we need the shrimp to eat it.

 

Once you can see it like that, the infection is in it's advanced stages, and the shrimp doesn't have long to live.

 

If you have H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) add 3 drops per 20L every 6 hours for 3 days. See you you go there. 

 

Edited by jayc
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Kingo

Morning all,

So i thought I might update this thread for any others experiencing necrosis issues. Thanks once again for your advice @jayc! 

 

After 3 treatments of oregano oil, (at @jayc‘s recommended dosage with 3 different foods, 2 x commercial pellets, one of fresh blanched peas) AND increasing my 20% weekly PWC change to 50% twice weekly - my deaths in this tank have stopped. There are still a few w/advanced stages of cell degeneration showing. It appears to have stopped in its tracks for now. 

First berries in 6-8 weeks have just been spied also. Perhaps too early to say if the issue has stoped completely. 

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richiep

That's interesting please keep us informed as to outcome

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  • Posts

    • jayc
      It sounds about right for GH6 (6 drops is roughly 120 TDS). Those GH test kits are not the most accurate. And RO water reading of 3 is not unreasonable. I don't know why you would have been reading 240TDS last week and now it's a 100 points lower. I would suggest, not changing water parameter with a water change for a week, then see where it is at. Change if it gets close to 200 (say around 180-190). Let's give the tank some stability by not changing anything for a while.
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    • supermansteve32
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      If u have a GH test kit, then u can do a cross check, where each GH value in RO water made with SS equals about 20 ppm, e.g. GH 6 water will give you about 120 ppm.
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      Are you sure the new reading is correct as that sounds unlikely, and I would have thought you would have had shrimps dying  with that sort of decrease. Do you have a second way of checking the TDS, or can you take a sample to a fish shop for them to test? I can't think of any reason that would happen or even heard of that before? Even if you had put pure RO water in last water change it wouldn't have dropped that far! If it is currently the TDS113 it will make adjusting easy as you just mix the water to the desired end TDS figure (140ish) and it will slowly go up to that. Simon
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