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    • KeenShrimp
      By KeenShrimp
      I have been trailing this product for about 8 months now:
      Ingredients: Lactic acid bacteria, crustaceans calcium, reduced maltose, mulberry powder, yeast
       
      I cannot argue with the fact that it increases my berried ratio among females after feeding. I sceptically attributed it to the protein component only initially, but trialling one tank on protein- high Ebita Breed Hinomaro bentou and another tank on B18, I still find B18 has a more pronounced effect on fertility.
      Whether it is potentially the Lactic Acid Bacteria strain used, the highly absorbable form of calcium used, the digestability of the yeast protein or a combination of all above, it appears to work.
      Dosage: Once a week, small amount.
       
      Highlights:
      - very little is used, so it lasts a long time as it is very concentrated.
      - the shrimp are attracted to the food supplement when put in the tank.
      - it completely breaks apart into a fine particle mush so that all shrimp can have a bite of the small portion dosed
      - it indeed does increase berried rate
       
      Concerns:
      - not available for purchase in Australia yet. Available in Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong.
      - possible water contamination potential if too much is dosed in nano tank.
       
      ????/5 Shrimp Tails
       
    • Baccus
      By Baccus
      So I was sticky beaking in my native tank and spied most if not all my girls are berried , so here's hoping that shortly not only will I have the notopala babies growing up nicely but also a few generations of various native shrimp.
      Blackmore I think

      Easy to identify Chameleon

      Also easy to ID Darwin Rednose

      and another

      And this really full girl that is either a DAS or a local creek shrimp that might in all honesty could be anything

    • Grubs
      By Grubs
      The pump flow jets into the corner of the tank and bounces the flow back out across the semi-circle of pebbles which provide "hang-on" spots for the shrimp. Not surprisingly this was set up to also give maximum viewing potential for me :D
      Feeding (infrequently) a mix of Sera micron powder, brine shrimp nauplii, and milk paramecium that I culture as fry food (I strain out the big ones on 50µm mesh).
      I also drop bits of mulberry leaf into the tank every now and then.
      I've found reproduction to be very seasonal.  In the 18 months I've had them this is only the second time I've had berried females - last time was last summer.
       
       



       
    • Paul Minett
      By Paul Minett
      Since the warmer weather the riffles are in gear and starting to breed.




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  • Posts

    • jayc
      Ahhh ... the age old question of how to trigger your shrimp to breed. We will have to assume you have at least 1 male. What are you feeding them? Feed frozen bloodworms twice a week. The additional protein will give them more energy. Add more Indian Almond Leaves (aka Cattapa leaves) to the tank to promote more tannins and biofilm. Try raising temps to 23C or 74F. A 10% water change might help the females moult.
    • jayc
      No it won't have all the minerals needed for plants. SS GH/KH+ is made up of Calcium carbonate, Magnesium.   Anubias is a slow growing plant, so it does not need much fertilisers. Mosses will grow with out any added ferts. Hairgrass and whatever you have in the back corner will survive without added ferts. Give it CO2 while your tanks is empty of shrimps.    Aim for 4-6 GH.  
    • Newday
      Hello, again.  I really appreciate everyone's wisdom on this topic.  Since I last posted, I lost my 29 gallon tropical freshwater aquarium to a sudden leak. 😞  Thankfully, I was able to save and rehome all the fish.  But, that means my 7 gallon shrimp tank received an upgrade wrt live plants and gravel.  I was hoping that would inspire some mating behavior, but I actually witnessed a female discharging what must be unfertilized eggs just this evening.  The male shrimp (I thought I had two, but now I'm questioning the other's sex after some weeks) is not doing his job and I can't figure out why.  I had to siphon out 50% of the water to move it from it's prior location beneath the 29 gallon.  I have not performed another water change in the nearly 3 weeks since the leak happened.  I check the parameters in the 7 gallon once a week and ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite are 0ppm.  Temp remains at a steady 72 degrees.  The shrimp are as active as ever but that male is unexcited by a tank full of females.  No clue what to do next.😑
    • DEL 707
      I'm thinking of ordering that "Salty Shrimp - Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+". My only concern is, does it also have all the needed minerals for my plants? Edit - If I was to use my tap water, what kind of GH should I be aiming for?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      WOW, that's hard water all right! Amazing how different it is to mine as probably only about 25 miles between us???? You were right to use RO water so at least you have a good starting point from here in! The PH may be the biggest issue as remineralising with a shrimp specific GH/KH+ will sort everything else with RO water. Cherry shrimps are pretty tough and adaptable so will tolerate PH below 7 but the nearer you can get to 7 the better, and a long time acclimating the shrimps using a dripper (there is a tube with regulator sold by ProShrimp for about £10 I think if you don't already have something) will be needed! The soil will take longer to loose its PH buffering ability with the RO though! There are a number of ways you can go from here: 1) RO water plus a GH/KH+ and try to get the PH up somehow although you will be fighting the Soil until that exhausts its buffering ability. 2) You could mix RO and (dechlorinated) tap water at 3:1 and then use a GH+. I do a 50/50 'similar' (half tap water, half brita filtered water) on my oldest tank. can't even remember why but I believe in 'don't try and fix it if it isn't broken' so have just carried on ever since. The mixed water would start at PH 6.2, TDS 70(ish), GH just over 4, KH just under 4 and then you can mineralise it (GH+ only) for the rest. This will exhaust the soil buffering quicker than 1 above and you will save a bit on RO water, use less (about half as much) mineraliser etc. You may think this is a bit too fussy a route though, and the soil will still buffer anyway, just not for as long as all RO water, and when it stops buffering you will have a PH closer to the ideal for the shrimps. Probably where you are now I would just get the snails for now until you have stopped adjusting the water or at least decided where next, probably not much longer before you get shrimps. I would also try turning off the CO2 and just see if it is really needed, if it looks like it is you can easily turn it back on then, but shrimps will do better without it and it MAY not be needed, same for fertilisers??? At least you are doing all this before getting the shrimps, very smart as most of us have learnt the hard/wrong way................ Simon
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