Jump to content
ineke

Basic shrimp keeping knowledge

Recommended Posts

Disciple

I'll be on the chat from 6 pm WA time. So 9pm for people in the eastern states.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Unagi42

What is this 'Dino Spit' and 'Dino Pee' that I keep hearing people refer too? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp

they are liquid plant fertilizers :)

You can read about them here 

http://aquagreen.com.au/aqualog/?p=125

it states the following -

Dinosaur Pee

Dinosaur Pee

General information: It is a liquid inorganic fertiliser made up with chelated trace elements, nitrogen and potassium. It has no phosphates and therefore relies on fish excreta and fish food for phosphates.

 

Dinosaur Spit

Dinosaur Spit

General information: It is a liquid organic form of carbon made up from a 10% solution of gluteraldehyde. Plants are 43 to 47% carbon by weight, one of the main limiting factors to plant growth in submerged plants is their carbon supply. This will assist plants obtain carbon and assist plants out compete algae, particularly blue-green algae. This is a weak solution of Gluteraldehyde but should be used as directed only. There are hazard considerations with strong solutions of gluteraldehyde, read http://www.npi.gov.au/database/substance-info/profiles/46.html for health and environment considerations. Keep out of the reach of children and if ingested seek medical advice. It is safe for the aquatic creatures in your aquarium up to double the recommended dose. Higher doses may adversley affect some plant species and invertebrates.

Edited by OzShrimp
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Unagi42

Thanks @ozshrimp, that makes sense. It always seemed strangely out of context.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

@Unagi42 Maybe it's the unusual name of the product.

Dino Spit is comparable to Seachem Flourish Excel. Often you will hear people discuss Excel and Dino spit in the same context. 

They are both made of Gluteraldehyde or Glut for short. Where as Excel and Dino Spit are just product names.

So Glut = Dino Spit = Excel.

And as mentioned by Oz's post above they are CO2 supplements for plants in the tank. It's not really a replacement for the CO2 gas you get in canisters.

The use of Glut comes with a precaution. Too much is harmful for your livestock.

In fact, Gluteraldehyde is a derivative of Formaldehyde, the stuff they use to preserve live specimens you see in places like museums. It's so strong, that Glut can be used to kill off algae.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp
5 hours ago, jayc said:

It's so strong, that Glut can be used to kill off algae.

Alot of people claim this is better then excel for spot dosing Black beard algae, never tried it myself but heard a few people recommend it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishmosy
1 hour ago, OzShrimp said:

Alot of people claim this is better then excel for spot dosing Black beard algae, never tried it myself but heard a few people recommend it

Dino Spit is the same as Excel - only more concentrated. In that regard, its probably more effective on algae than excel because the same volume will have a higher amount of glut. Dino Spit is much better value than Excel.

Glut doesn't only kill algae, its kills planaria. I massively overdosed one of my tanks (think 2 - 2.5 mL of Dino Spit in a 12L tank, normal dosage rate is around a drop or two) and the planaria curled up and died within the next five minutes. It didn't kill 100% of them though as I had to do a quick 75% water change as my choc cherries looked very unhappy. All the cherries survived though.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
17 minutes ago, fishmosy said:

 

Glut doesn't only kill algae, its kills planaria

Nice one. That has to be an undocumented use of Dino spit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Unagi42

Just a quick question on lighting cycles. I've read that 8 hours is preferred or even two 4 hour sessions. Unfortunately my daughter likes to turn the light on in the mornings so the tank was getting 10+ hours and the algae was going nuts. So now I've dropped it to 1 hour (morning) then 5 hours (eve).

Would this stress adult shrimp enough to kill them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

in my experience the answer is a definite no.

due to summer heat and me trying to manage electricity and thermal energy better - over past couple of weeks my crs tank and cherry tanm have had totally bizarre light cycles varying dramatically from a few hours at a random time of day or 36-48 hours with no light except sometimes the ambient room light and a few occassions with 18+ hours of light running overnight. very nuts..

anyway today i spotted my first CRS babies :-) and none of the mums have lost their berries - so it can't be all that significant when it comes to the highly domesticated neos and bees.

I'd personally not take the chance of totally randomly messing with light cycles for wild shrimp because although it may not stress or kill them; photoperiod is often one of the triggers for breeding so could well have a negative impact. i thimk recently fishmosy is increasing his daylength in his aussie c zebra tank in an effort to trigger more breeding.

ime neos and crs don't know any better though :-)

love n peace

will

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

Some time ago we discussed lighting and it was mentioned that  if you switched the lights off slightly short of 4 hours then put them back on later for another 3-4 hours the algae doesn't take hold so much. I generally have my lights on about 8 hours a day and often turn them off for a few hours in the middle of the day with no ill effect to the shrimp and very little algae problems. Conversely when I travel and I'm away for a couple of months at a time my lights come on in the late afternoon and stay on for only 4-5 hours. Again no effect on the shrimp - breeding continues and no apparent deaths. 

It was also discussed that certain strength of light and certain amount of hours of light may affect the thickness of the shell of the shrimp. I think you can still find the threads under the lighting heading .

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Unagi42

Thank you @revolutionhope @ineke. I have read conflicting data on this elsewhere so it's great to get a straight answer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishmosy
On ‎7‎/‎12‎/‎2015‎ ‎7‎:‎52‎:‎55‎, ineke said:

Some time ago we discussed lighting and it was mentioned that  if you switched the lights off slightly short of 4 hours then put them back on later for another 3-4 hours the algae doesn't take hold so much. I generally have my lights on about 8 hours a day and often turn them off for a few hours in the middle of the day with no ill effect to the shrimp and very little algae problems. Conversely when I travel and I'm away for a couple of months at a time my lights come on in the late afternoon and stay on for only 4-5 hours. Again no effect on the shrimp - breeding continues and no apparent deaths. 

It was also discussed that certain strength of light and certain amount of hours of light may affect the thickness of the shell of the shrimp. I think you can still find the threads under the lighting heading .

I run a similar regime for my lights over my shrimp tanks. No problems ever and (bad) algae growth is definitely hampered (i.e. string algae, Black beard ect), not so much green spot algae, which I consider to be beneficial anyway.

Edited by fishmosy
spelling
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Disciple

I just remembered this topic and wanted to give it a bump.

If anyone is interested I would be willing to run a Q & A on basic shrimp keeping knowledge. I could also try organise Guests to pop in and answer questions.

If this would interest you please let me know what the best time and day to run it.

If not I could just do create AMA (Ask Me Anything) thread where people can ask me anything about my colonies or setups etc.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ineke

Sounds good Disciple. I'm still getting asked very basic questions in pm's - I think some people are still not comfortable asking what they see as silly questions - rest assured everyone there is no such thing as a silly question. For every one person asking a question - no matter how simple- there are probably 2 or 3 people eagerly waiting for an answer. So a back to basics night would be good and even though some of us have been breeding for a few years there is still something new we learn when questions are asked. I still see things and go well I didn't know that! 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay?    I do have an RO system already, and I could  remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate.    Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ?    Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby. 
    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      This is a very good video on the basics if you are new to shrimps. It is called 'How to breed shrimp', not sure why as it is generally everything and a very good  and clear video guide?.
       
    • Zoidburg
      By Zoidburg
      Short info...

      I'm in USA
      I got these from a pet store
      They were being sold as something they clearly are not
      Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see)
      *NOT* Neocaridina
      *LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks*

      I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...)
       
      Female
       

      Male
       

       
      And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear)

       
       
       
       
      And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
       

    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
      Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple. 
      Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a  huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
      Regards
      -The Keeper


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
    • jayc
    • kms
      I will try to add all the old tank's shrimps at the end of August to the new tank, had a problem with my chiller this morning, try to make it more efficient by adding a better heat sink grease, I added a liquid metal grease, apparently you can't add liquid metal, when heating up, the heat sink turning to dust, along with part of the cooler inlet and outlet. So far the shrimps are ok.    
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I have had the new shrimps a week and have ordered some new ones(10) for delivery friday. There are probably at least 6 of the 8 alive (they may even all be alive still) but as the tank is so densely planted it is difficult to tell, but I saw 2 black and 2 red this morning, as yesterday, but I'm sure 1 red and  1 black weren't the same as the ones I saw yesterday so there are probably at least 6, if that makes any sense??? Anyway that will be it for now and I will just let the tank and shrimps do there thing once this batch are in there in a couple of days, and I can get back to the usual routine as was, before this unfortunate event wiped out the last lot. All parameters are good, including the nitrates now, but there are a lot of brown patches on the plants and moss balls still......... It all looks a bit drab and uninspiring and brown!!! I probably just need to be a bit more patient? I will do some maintenance tomorrow and a small 2L water change, then the new shrimps will go in on friday after acclimatising. The shrimps were totally uninterested in the spinach or shrimp lolly I put in at the weekend but I am assuming they have so much biofilm at this stage that that is keeping them busy and well fed and they are staying under cover until they get used to their new environment and this strange ugly monster that keeps peering in at them through the glass from time to time? I guess if some 100ft tall bloke kept peering through my window a few times a day I would be a bit nervous/reserved shall we say? I removed the spinach and the shrimp lolly and put the shrimp lolly in the betta tank and within minutes there were 10 shrimp on it so there was definitely nothing wrong with that shrimp lolly! Simon
    • jayc
      Traps don't work on hydra. Even with planaria, it is slow and it doesn't catch them all.
×