Clicky

Jump to content
Dooliga

How do you stop your shrimp from escaping?

Recommended Posts

Dooliga

Hi,

I am trying to prepare my aquarium for shrimp -- in particular Riffle Shrimp.

After reading that these are escape experts I was momentarily put off the idea because I was aware of definite escape routes that they could easily crawl along and out through. But I'd quickly pushed that reluctance aside to focus on a solution. There has to be one. SKF forum members surely have one.

Escape routes in my set up are: specifically the filter inlet and outlet, along with light attachment clips and wave-maker power cord.

I first thought of perspex cut to fit, but that would be near impossible to fit perfectly and I suspect they only need 2-3 mm to squeeze through? I figured something that was flexible/moldable would be more suitable. I was thinking maybe some fine stainless wire mesh  that's used for moss attachment? But that's probably a bit expensive for the size of the pieces i'd need? Or flywire? Or perhaps some security door screen, but i'd be worried about paint leeching into the water as that stuff may likely rust with time? 

Anyone have any ideas? I couldn't find a thread/topic when I searched of 'shrimp escaping'. I'm pretty sure someone here has a simple solution. What do you do to stop your shrimp escaping?

D

Apologies to Admin: I originally thought to add this to my thread on Riffles as I thought it was appropriate under the topic of planning a tank set up for them, but I was unable to add a further photo to illustrate what I'm trying to find a solution for (I'd reached the image upload limit). I figure this topic fits under 'Shrimp Health & Care'. Please move or delete or edit as you see fit. Thank you.



 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

@Dooliga,

Make sure you leave sufficient space between the water surface and top of the tank.

I use a triangular plastic piece cut out of clear Binding Covers A4 sheets. It's placed in the corners where the filter hoses are. https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/cumberland-binding-covers-a4-clear-100-pack-cuombsa4

We have these at work 😉 

Cost = $0

 

Riffles generally climb out at the corners if there is a cable or pipe there.


A picture,  speaks a 1000 words. So I'll try taking one tonight when I get home from work.

But here is a drawing to start with. 

Untitled.jpg.ac3ae2a78c93e368a120099a089fd006.jpg

It's just a triangular plastic piece. Cut along the dotted line's to create a circular hole in the middle for the filter pipe. Slide this over are each corner where there are cables or hoses coming out.

 

Edited by jayc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dooliga

Thank you Jayc, 

What you are describing makes a lot of sense, is cheap and I can envisage that it's effective.  But, if you have time may I see a pic please?

Cheers,

D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
2 hours ago, Dooliga said:

if you have time may I see a pic please?

Thanks for the reminder. Wasn't even sure you saw my post above.

 

2 hours ago, Dooliga said:

makes a lot of sense, is cheap

Hey! that's me to the letter.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

This is what I use on one corner...

20180208_083024.thumb.jpg.f55561bdb4d71d5dc12be457582e4017.jpg20180208_083115.thumb.jpg.495b0afc99d7bf74f084fbee9171328c.jpg

 

 

The following was the prototype, which  I still use because it is easier to remove and replace, thanks to the larger channel cutout. I use it occasionally when I need to remove the pipes often, say like during cleaning time. You see the final product above was much more refine than the prototype.

20180208_083327.thumb.jpg.5347fd2d0889e192c943a45dff03c19e.jpg

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dooliga

Thanks jayc, 

Pretty sure i can come up with something that will work in my set up. 

1 hour ago, jayc said:

Wasn't even sure you saw my post above.

I hadn't replied as I was processing your response to my overall plan for the tank's set up. I've been checking the forum multiple times a day since I made that first post and reading more (enjoying it, very inspiring). Sorry I didn't reply sooner.

I hope the above helps some others too. Find it interesting that other's haven't chimed in with what they do.

Cheers,

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
7 hours ago, Dooliga said:

Pretty sure i can come up with something that will work in my set up. 

If you improve on it, let us know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
      Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple. 
      Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a  huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
      Regards
      -The Keeper
    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. 
       
      Options ive thought of-
      1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
      2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 
      3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
    • Gavin_EuphonyG
      By Gavin_EuphonyG
      Hi Guys and Shrimperts!
      Having owned 3, 5 & 10G tanks (All Neocaridina shrimps), I've taken the plunge and decided to build a shrimp rack and with new tanks.
      Size of the tank is 2.5ft(W) x 1.5ft(L) x 1.5ft(H) and will be divided to 3 columns. The upper most tank will house my Cardina and the middle tank will be the Neo's and the lowest is either a sump or just going to leave the rack space with the chiller only (I am from Malaysia).
      Basically in total, my plan is to have 6 divided tanks (3 each divided from the 2.5ft tank) and that is the max. amount of tanks, I may start a new rack next time should I decided to expand. 2 different local shrimp stores has given me separate suggestions for the shrimp tank water system and need your expertise and advice to see what's best. I am not restricted by their suggestion since I did told them that I want to have a simple water flow without having to drill holes to the tanks, but I don't mind getting my hands on plumbing and DIY Overflow stuff.
      The drafts are below for your suggestions, I'm all ears.
      Thank you in advance!
       




    • SquaniceandSquilliam
      By SquaniceandSquilliam
      Hi I'm an animal enthusiast with many frogs snakes and arachnids but it's my first attempt at caring for cherry shrimp..i researched with my girlfriend quite a bit and already set up a planted tank in a nano 2.6gallon aquarium. It will be cycling and until then I just wanted some feedback on how it looks and what y'all think about it? Thankyou ~ 

    • jc12
      By jc12
      I have been a long time lurker on this forum and have learnt a lot from past and present members who have contributed to this forum. Thank you.
      This is my first 'real' post and I hope this would help anyone who might be considering building a rack themselves. As requested by @Disciple, hope this helps you too.
      Just a bit of background on my experience. My only previous build attempt was for a stand and sump for a 4x2x2. It was my first build dabbling with staining wood and using silicon for sump baffles, etc. As you can see from the photos below, they are pretty amateurish but I am happy for how it turned out as a first attempt. Next step is to fit some doors to it.
      The stand was built following this video by King of DIY. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jN4Y9AYuwcQ
      Anyway, this gives you an idea of the level of experience I have before I embark on my ambitious attempt to build a rack.
      Below are some photos of my 4x2x2, sump and stand build, and some of its inhabitants. Sorry they are not shrimp related and not of great quality taken using my phone.
       
      Stand and sump

       


      Filled up and planted.

       
      Display tank front view.

       
      Display tank side view.

       
      With background in place and tank inhabitants added consisting of altum flora discus, german blue rams, panda corydoras, cardinal tetras, otocinclus, red cherry shrimps, darwin algae shrimps and darwin red nose shrimps.

       
      Altum flora discus.

       
      Panda corydoras.

       
      German blue rams with their fry.

       
      I have browsed many build threads including some from here and have built on my ideas collectively from different sources. The specific post from @BlueBolts here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/1415-breeding-rack-no2/ has inspired me greatly and I would like to acknowledge that.
      I followed the DIY rack build as outlined here: http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/topic/7063-diy-rack-for-under-50-in-under-2hrs/
       
      The plan, materials, and costs
      This rack will be located in the lounge room so it has to be 'display-ish' quality and light from it must not interfere with the TV or be too blinding to people sitting around the lounge room. Also, no unsightly hoses/pipes are to be seen. I managed to convince the Minister for Home Affairs that a canister filter and chiller by definition, is not categorised as hoses or pipes, and would be in no way unsightly. The LED display from the chiller would provide subtle mood lighting, and the gentle humming of the filter and soft soothe whirling of the chiller fan would be therapeutic for lounge surfers, and would also greatly enhance movie watching experience with enriched sound depth and effects.
      Hence I received approval to have a canister filter and chiller located next to the rack.
      I used 5 x 5.4m long 90x45mm MGP10 untreated structural pine bought and cut to size from Masters for $83.75. I find Masters generally sells timber cheaper than Bunnings. Since I have both of them close to where I live, I selectively buy what I need from where it is cheaper.
      The frame is held together by 10-8 x 75mm zinc plated countersunk screws. I bought a box of 250 screws from Bunnings for $27.50.
      The rack measures 1390 x 420 x 2200 mm (L x W x H). The plan is to hold 2 x 2'x15"x15" tanks on the top and middle tier each, and a 4'x15"x15" hospital/quarantine/grow out/sump tank on the bottom tier.
      Each tank would be insulated by 20mm foam around the sides, back and base as I plan to run both tropical (28-30 degrees C) and chilled (22-24 degrees C) tanks on this rack. Plumbing for air and sump would be hidden within the frame.
       
      Please disregard the mess in the background. Still sorting out stuff in the garage after the move.
      From this:

       
      To this:



  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • Cesar
      Congrats @Sheldon13, keep us updated on their progress...
    • Sheldon13
      I LOVE the Velvet blue you have.  Beautiful specimen!
    • Sheldon13
      It's my first time guys!  I got these as my first shrimp, they were berried within 2 days and I had to squeal this morning when I woke up to babies!  So far I count 13.  I had 2 berried females so I know there's more...  They are orange cherries 😄
    • Baccus
      As helpful as pictures are I was wondering if there is a written description of the different colour varieties, much like what would be for say a show dog where desired criteria must be met in order for it to be grand champion worthy or pet quality. I ask because I am seeing many people selling "blue dreams" for example but there seems to be a great deal of difference with regards to darkness of the blue or clarity of the blue. And many of the sellers are either correctly claiming the shrimp are high grade or wrongly duping ( Not all but some and some could be doing it by accident too from not having a definitive accurate description to go by) new buyers who go on to breed said shrimp and sell on the offspring guessing they are high grade because they purchased high grade.
    • Dooliga
      The best write up on CPD's I've come across (and I've been trying to read everything I can find on them). Fantastic photos too. From the first time I read about and watched CPD's online I wanted some with a clear intent to breed them. It took me over 6 months to find some CPDs in a LFS to purchase (could have got some shipped earlier, but hated the idea of them not surviving as they are not cheap in Australia). Finally I found and bought 20 less than a week ago. Fitted right in with my community tank, colour improving daily. A tank to house them in is maturing and intend to pick out a few to see if they will breed there to start with. Plan is to get breeding tanks set-up soon and looking forward to trying some of the methods explained pretty clearly in this article. Hope I remember to come back here and share my experience. Thanks S1l3nt!

      Dooliga
       
×