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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/23 in all areas

  1. Hi Guys, I have 20 odd DAS and 20 odd RNS. Just wondering what parameters you keep your aussie natives at please? Im reading so many different parameters on the Web. I suspect I'm too high. I'm on rain water and I have crushed coral in my tank as naturally my water is ph 7, GH 0-1, KH 0-1 (so low that my API test is already yellow/green on the first drop. My rainwater has a TDS of 7. It's pretty close to RO water! My temp is set at 27 and I read some websites saying that's fine and some are saying too high. I can slowly bring it down as I'm set up to an inkbird. So my tanks parameters are ph- 7.4, Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrites- 0ppm, Nitrates- 0-10ppm, GH-5, KH- 3, TDS- 150-187 roughly in that range. I do have to raise my GH slightly as the crushed coral wasn't enough and I have been using seachem aquavitro GH+. Im thinking I'm way off but that's what a lot of websites had said go DAS and RNS. I have the ability to reduce it slowly if it's needed. My shrimp are really happy, not showing signs of distress. I also have 10 baby delicate blue eyed fish (aussie natives) and a baby bristlenose pleco. He'll be moving onto a 235L community tank I bought, when he gets a bit bigger. Anyway, helllppppp!! Am I on the right track or do I need to reduce? I can slowly take away the crushed coral and do 10% water changes over a month or 2 if too high. Thanks guys!
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  2. Also I added boss aquaria mineral balls. They haven't impacted on the parameters and TDS is in the same range. Are they a good idea to use on top of the seachem aquavitro GH+ or unnecessary? I have a lot of moulting going on and I thought I saw one with the white ring of death so I added the mineral balls in hopes of helping her. Im unsure if that's what it is, as she is also heavily berried atm and I'm very new to shrimp keeping. My tank is also very heavily planted. Thanks!
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  3. This one definetly shows, its been sitting in roughly the same place without moving for a day now. However if i get anywhere close with a net itll jump away so catching it is probably out of the question.
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  4. We definitely need better close up photos to confirm if your shrimp has rust disease.
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  6. This is a thread dedicated to my hopefully effective treatment to rust disease on some red calco bee shrimps. The shrimps are introduced 4 days ago to my planted tank, Parameters as follow: 20H tank RO water with reminiralizer Oase thermostyle 30 filter CO2 1bpm on timer with light Blue velvet shrimp x8 Red calco bee shrimp x6 Kuhli loach x6 PH: 6.8 KH: 2-4dkh GH: 1-2dGH NO3:0 NO2:0 Above results are from test strips, api test kit coming tomorrow and will report back on parameters. Now a little history about the tank: the tank was set up by dry starting for carpet plants, then flooding and adding CO2. tested the PH to be stable at 6.8 with test strip but KH and GH was at 0. Added crushed oyster shell to add some buffer ability to the water. added in blue valvets and all was well, one got stuck in the filter intake and was found too late, died after rescue. then added loaches and snails. 4 days ago finally decided to add some caridina shrimps as the tank seems stable. Water changes was sparse. 10-20% at most and only dripped. I didn't have a quarintine tank so the caridinas was dripped and let in the tank. I seem to recall seeing one of them that had a dark spot and thinking it was nothing major (didnt do enough research) Today I decided to find that shrimp and found it resting on the underside of the driftwood and the pattern on the shell had black spots on it. it seems very dormant while the others are out and about. Contacted the shrimp seller and got the following suggestions: GH too low; KH too high; Temp too high; Increase oxygen level; Do 25% water changes; Treat with hydrogen peroxide; Feed indian almond leaves; Today I will do a 25% water change, have a temp controller coming tomorrow to lower temp to 24 degrees, and test parameters. As for the KH and GH booster they will arrive a bit later. I should treat it with hydrogen peroxide or as this form suggests Oregano oil. One issue is that I feed fluval shrimp granules and those are not wafers so I do not know the correct dosage for oregano oil.... and I dont know if the loaches will do well with H2O2 so I will probably do that as the final option. If any of yall have inputs feel free to share, any help is appreciated.
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