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Bicarb Soda is most certainly not the same as Baking Soda. Baking Soda has an acidity agent added, usually cream of tartar. It's for making bubbles for fluffy cakes. Ever seen the bubbles created when adding vinegar to bicarb soda? That's what Baking Soda is doing. The ingredients list should confirm if cream of tartar is added. But that's besides the point now. You don't need it if you are reducing KH and thus pH. That advice was to address your question about raising KH. And yes, increasing KH means pH will also rise. Clearly you don't need that now.

I noticed it shows as being safe for inverts, so i also wish you luck ... and perhaps we now know a new infection treatment

Hi and thank you for the reply. I do not use heaters. I heat or cool the carage to 22 degrees. Temp in the tanks are between 21,5 to 23 depending if they are positioned low or high. I was in contact with one of the fish disease experts here in Finland and I desided to try JBL furanol plus. https://www.jbl.de/en/products/detail/5580/jbl-furanol-plus-250 I know there is a chance that the medication could harm the shrimp but as I have seen this infection is deadly I had to try it in the CBS tank that had its first victim today. If there are any survivors after 3-4 days I know it has made a difference.

Haha yea thats what i was thinking. Easy and straightforward is what I need! I dont know which of the two my "Bi-carb soda - baking soda" is ? but Im assuming its the wrong one. Either way I plan on not having to deal with it in the future and just get the GH/KH+

Welcome to the forum! I am sorry to hear about your problem. I don't think I can add anything more than is in the thread you have linked. Have you checked the water isn't getting too warm as the photos look remarkeably like mine when my heater malfunctioned, I'm sure others will be able to offer some helpful advice. Simon

Good to her that the new shrimps are doing well! I would bite the bullet and make your life so much easier and buy the GH/KH+ shrimp product, that with RO water will produce the right water in ALL parameters, as long as there isn't anything in the tank such as rock that alters it out of those preset parameters. The new water you add will be the perfect balance of GH/KH/PH/TDS and you only need to prepare it using TDS meter (make it to TDS 160 etc) so it is very easy and straightforward. As long as the new shrimp seem fine I would just start using this new water from now on so it will very slowly make any adjustments, so shouldn't harm the shrimp - I wouldn't do any large water change if all seems fine for now? As JayC mentioned, if you are using baking soda it probably isn't the right product? It may even end up costing you less as well as making life easier in the longer term. Simon

Cherry Shrimp seem alright so far. The Caridina Typhus hasnt seem to settle in yet, they do laps around the tank every now and then or hide in the corner, which I've heard is normal when they're new. The PH of the pure Ro water before i add anything is ~6.2. I see, but wouldn't I still have to use it since I will always need to add KH to my RO water? If I stopped the KH of my ro water will be 0. Right now I add the Bi-carb soda until I get a KH of 3/4. Also would increasing my KH from 0 to 3/4 cause such a big increase in ph? (from 6.2 to 8 ) Cheers!

I hope the new shrimp are dong well? Test the PH of the water out of the RO machine, (before you add anything) usually that will be 5-6 unless, as per JayC, you are using the wrong type of RO equipment? Simon

Hi. Based on my diagnostics I’m facing internal bacterial infections with my shrimps. I currently run 10+ setups and Im afraid that before I have stopped this infection I might have none left. Time will tell how many of them are already infected. The infection has so far wiped two of my Taiwan bee tanks and today I found first loss in CBS tank. Im disinfecting everything that I use and even do now water changes without hoses. I think the hoses have been the reason that the infection has spread from the first tank. The symptoms are not visible on the outside before the shrimp die. They just tend to stand and do nothing. Once they die the color changes and when inside is visible I can clearly see that the organs have turned orange. Attached photo black king kong white line and CBS. I have tried so far dosing H2O2 and oregano oil (carvacrol 80%). I dosed the oregano oil to food but only few or none would eat anymore in tanks where infection had spread. I have ordered baytril and oxytetracycline powder but it will take some time. Now I'm maybe asking what I could do to make the best possible chance for the remaining shrimp to survive in tanks where there are no casualties yeat but have a risk that they are contaminated? I do have some fish medication but they wont have any of the ingredients mentioned in the Shrimp Diseases and Diagnosis post. https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/topic/5052-shrimp-diseases-and-diagnosis/

Ok so, I think I have figured out why my PH sticking around the 8 mark. I decided to test my remineralised RODI water and I got a PH of 8/8.1 and I think the culprit is the Bicarb soda I'm using to raise the KH? Now @jayc you said: Looking at my Bicarb soda packaging, it says "Bi-Carb Soda" then underneath in smaller writing "Baking Soda", so I'm a bit confused as to which one it is haha. According to google, Bi-carb soda is the same as baking soda? its just that the later is an american term? The Bicarb/Baking soda I'm using being the culprit makes sense as Baking soda has natural alkilinity of pH 8. Am I using the wrong thing? ?