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Steensj2004
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jayc
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/25/20 in all areas
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2 points
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To treat internally, add a drop of the oil to food. Flakes or wafer type foods are best. Anything dry that will sink to the bottom of the tank. To treat externally, add 1ml to 20L for the whole tank treatment. This is a more dilute dose than the "Diseases and Diagnosis" post. But I'd prefer we go with a lower dose. How big is you tank ? I realise I'm working in metric, so let me know the dimensions of your tank, just to be sure. A repeat dose after every 2 days is a good idea until symptoms are cleared. Then a 50% water change. Followed by another 50% water change 2days later. Then add any filter media you saved back into the filter. Please note: Treating shrimp diseases is still a very new science. There is no exact doses to be used. There is no specific medication for specific diseases unlike the fish keeping side of the hobby. You will not see Oregano Oil being prescribed for diseases anywhere else (yet) for shrimp except on this forum. In many ways we are pioneering things with the shrimp industry. So when I tell you to use 1ml to 20L, it's not an exact science or a proven dosage. If you have a quarantine tank, it might reduce the risks. But what I do know of Oregano oil is that it is powerful stuff against bacteria, it will work if we are dealing with a bacterial infection here, which you seem to be confident it is. Ah, I get it now.2 points
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@jayc or anyone else, could you please go over how to dose this oregano oil in water, just to make sure I don’t nuke my tank. I only have my tiny HOB and dual sponge filter. Oil will be here tomorrow and I’m nervous about killing my tank. Filter media will be moved to a 1.5 gallon tall container( beverage type container thAts tall and deep), with the sponge filter. I’ll leave the HOB without ceramic media etc for flow during treatment. I will be taking a gallon of tank water out for the container my filter media and sponge will be running in for a few days, before dosing. I places a blanched cucumber in tonight, they swarmed it for the first time, ever. Looking at the shells on some of them, it’s 100% bacterial( external as well as possibly internal). I don’t know why. I thought my water was in good shape..... I’m terrified of something going wrong. Hopefully I can get it all together, and this is successful.... also, than you all for the help. It’s greatly appreciated.2 points
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filter media removed from HOB, and spong lenfilter assembly completely removed. Both are in a container of tank water until treatment is over. About to mix up this oregano oil water. I plan to add some BacterAE and shrimp fit. Let it sit for a while. That SHOULD impregnate the BacterAE/Fit particles with some oil. I’ll do some tablets later
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Additionally, I want to use diluted oil on the food I add, too. Correct?1 point
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1 pointI have Black Galaxy Pinto, Red Galaxy Pinto, Red Wine, Blue Shadow Panda and CRS. My previous CRS has round egg, unlike these which are long and round.1 point
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1 pointThose eggs are very early so will probably be about 3 weeks before those hatch? Always exciting to get to the next/new step! You have a great selection of shrimps there, and the tank looks good! Good to hear it is going well Great photos.! Simon1 point
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1 pointNo shrimplet yet, I only notice the eggs, yesterday, I have spotted 4 crabs at one time, but bought another 4 a week ago.1 point
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1 pointGreat photo of early eggs, yellow yolks! Do you have any shrimplets? How are you doing with the small crabs? Simon1 point
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1 pointHaven't been on this site recently, and the site was also off line, My shrimp has been do well, been sorting out my coura tri. had to change it's tub, turtles getting bigger and fighting. anyway my Black Galaxy Pinto has eggs, but it looks strange, previously my CRS had egg, they were round, these are long. My Turtles1 point
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1 pointIf you try to put bacteria from a pH 7.5 tank into a ph 6 tank, you will probably kill off the bacteria right away. In my experience + forum reading, you have to very slowly acclimate the nitrifying bacteria to low pH. Let me tell a brief story: In my current tank, when I first set it up cycling, the pH with UNS controsoil was some number around 6 and I would add bacteria from a bottle and wait and wait and the cycle would never go thru. Eventually I got impatient and decided to "cheat" by using household ammonia (which raises the pH because it is basic, instead of ammonium chloride, which is slightly acidic) and also adding a little bit of Potassium bicarbonate or Salty Shrimp GH/KH to bump up the pH a notch. When the pH was above 6.2, the cycle would go thru, but if the pH falls below 6, the cycle will stall. Eventually I just added shrimp anyway and at first they were fine, but within a few days, the pH went down a little bit and the shrimp became more quiet. (Nobody died, though). After a few more days, the shrimp resumed activity. During this entire time, I never saw ammonia with the test kit and I added a little prime anyway just in case. But the point is even then, the shrimp can "feel it" somehow. Anyway, in the future what I will do is first grow bacteria + media in a jar at high pH to get the numbers up, then very slowly bring down the pH to acclimate the bacteria. Then I will add this to my tank with substrate and plants and etc. The point being that this way I don't wreck my buffering substrate with the higher pH. Many asian shrimp people have pH below 61 point -
This tank: https://www.marinedepot.com/aquamaxx-rectangular-low-iron-rimless-aquarium-17-1-gallon 20L is around 5.2 gallons. I ASSUME there is around 12 gallons of water in there after water displacement from substrates, rocks, etc. so I assume 2ml of oregano oil TOTAL to that water volume. Add the oil to RO outside the tank, shake hard to combine, and dump it in?1 point
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Shrimp on the oregano leaves! I don’t know, however, if they can get anything off them. I blanched in boiling water for 30-45 seconds, but they weren’t that soft.....
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Lol sorry jayc but I think he meant he had already ordered a different one, but then he found the one he linked and ordered that instead.1 point -
1 point.thumb.PNG.b2ca8f0ec35b2ea0acea155b2273948f.PNG.9f2fd1287a6c18b5b11fe713965b914e.PNG)
Amarinus lacustris are a fully freshwater crab native to almost all parts of Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania and several other islands, As a breeding guide, I must introduce, that they DO NOT have a larval stage at any point of their life cycle, once females are berried they take between 3-5 weeks until the baby crabs hatch and are released, they are fully formed miniature adult crabs (about 1mm) For water parameters they are reasonable hardy and accept a wide ranges of conditions ( they have to be expendable as they are an estuarine species, where the pH and salinity changes extremely quickly), mine are kept at a pH of 7-7.5, with water changes done weekly of 25%, the tank has sponge filters (I use sponge filters as they are completely shrimp and crab safe, compared to internal motorised sponge filters and hang on the back filters which are known to suck up baby shrimplets and crablets), they easily breed in the same environment that they are kept in (no need for a specific breeder tank), from what I have witness like shrimp they can only breed when a female sheds her shell, there should be an extremely high ratio of females to males as males will continually harass female crabs (that have just shedded) other wise the males can kill females, however males and females get on perfectly fine when females have not shed recently, mine are kept in a cold water aquarium which has a large amount of native fissidens, driftwood, sand substrate and porous rocks, baby crabs should be fine if kept in the colony environment however as they need to compete with food with adult crabs you may only get 50% survival rate to adulthood, I overcome this issue by housing females (that are berried) in my 5 segmented tank this mean when the female releases the babies I simply take the female out and put back into the main crab tank, the babies are then grown on until the are about .5cm and added to the main colony tank, I keep mine in a species only aquarium, I have some with cherries and the crabs are quite timid of the shrimp even the HUGE 2cm males XD, I feed all the same food I do my shrimp, this includes shrimp sinking pellets, algae wafers, carrot and other safe vegetables, I did have Amarinus Laevis however I did find the quite regularly predated on my shrimp (this is subjective, as I know people have had no trouble with them and shrimp), also I stopped keeping them because of their complicated life cycle, all in all, easy to care for, easy to feed, just keep with non aggressive fish (they can be acclimatised to tropical), fully formed babies, extremely shrimp safe. *images may appear different depending on your computer settings, also if you want to use my images please contact me before copying them/using them (The crabs range from a light sandy colour, blonde, brown, and dark brown - depending on environment/day and night1 point -
Well...... that’s awesome. update: Performed an immediate 10 gallon water change. Water matched within 15 TDS, exact PH l/ GH. Didn’t know what else to do. Lost 15-20, all tiny baby’s toast( dead). I dunno, it almost killed the corys cats too. Things have settled down, filter media back in. I dunno, maybe there is enough oil left over to help heal them. Assuming they don’t all die anyway.0 points