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A small video with all shrimp tanks, added some new.

Thanks for the reply Zoid, the plan is to use Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+ when I change to RO. That said, I'll have to check what happens with the dragon rock, as you said, it could affect the water with increased TDS.I certainly wont be introducing any shrimp until I'm as sure as I can be that they'll do ok. I've just used both meters to measure the TDS, I'm getting readings of 316 on the one I bought and 484 on the one I got with the Zerowater jug. I'm going to a big aquarium shop over the weekend and I'll see if I can get calibration done.

Hi there , i am 100% sure that the problem is not the pressure of the water.... Something in the big tank...

These shrimp are becoming more common within the USA... starting to think they may be one particular species... and now there's a couple of more species that are mixed in with them... and all are being sold as amano shrimp... Caridina multidenta.... which they are not.

TDS meters need to be calibrated, just like electric pH meters do and refractometers for saltwater aquariums. That said, even with calibrated TDS meters (they are supposed to come pre-calibrated and need to be re-calibrated every now and then), you can still get different results from two different brands. As you mentioned, your tap water may be 1-2 GH... which means that the TDS should be below 40, theoretically speaking. Of course, if you have high KH or other dissolved solids, this could mean a higher TDS from tap. My question is... if you plan on switching to RO water once the tank is cycled, what do you plan on using to remineralize the water? Me personally, I would recommend exhausting the buffering substrate prior to adding inhabitants... especially shrimp. That said, the dragon rock may always skew your water parameters.

Is there a GH difference between the big tank and the nursery tank??? I've heard of crystals not thriving in GH higher than 5, but 3-4 is what's recommended. That is, the adults might be fine but offspring wont be. I remember the first shrimp my O.H. got. Male and female. They were put into a 90+ gallon tank. Female was not berried when she was put in there, but she was the following day.

The products sold to kill planaria (No Planaria/Planaria Zero, Z1?) are usually made out of betel nut, not Fenbendazole. BorneoWild Extermine is made with camille seeds.

Shrimps prefer biofilm rather other food.... But if population grown , biofilm cant grow that fast, that why we add food.... We feed them for one two houres and the 22 hours trying to found and eat biofilm. I dont believe that shrimp need animal protein for food, they can live with plant protein.

It may be worth trying this as it is for Planaia/Hydra (as JayC above) and is from sources in the US which I think is where you are. It worked well for the hydra I had and it is a natural product, really easy to use and harmless to shrimps so i would give it a go. Just add a dose once and that is it (a repeat may be needed). https://buceplant.com/products/sl-aqua-bio-protector-z1?variant=12225133609041 https://www.jungleaquashrimp.com/sl-aqua-bio-protector-z1-planaria-hydra-remover/ Simon