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Parasites don't kill their hosts so quickly, it doesn't benefit the parasite. So you can rule that one out. Diseases also normally take a while, certainly not overnight. Quick deaths are either toxins/poisons or aggressive breeding apistos. Either way, sorry to hear the news. Hope the Apistos make up for it with lots of babies.

Hello, This is my Taiwan proyect. It is a 80 l aquarium. It is divided in 4 boxes. In first one i have blue bolt bees. Next has KK and panda bees. And blue panda Next one: red genetic. Red rubi and red wine and one full red head red bolt (or i think so) And 4th i have male golden (F1 Taiwan) and no dark blue bolt. I AM thinking what can i do with this division. My main goal is get extreme blue bolt. I have gotten very nice blue bolt of lucky way. So, i have my first question: besides select better colours BB, Now can i get then? KK x Golden (f1 Taiwan)?? Kk x blue bolt? Other? My second goal is get blue panda. Again I have 3 blue panda female. Again it was bien in my tank when it haven’t divided. So i don’t know which were the parents. Again, besides select blue panda (now i Only have females) how can i get it? Kk x panda? Panda x blue bolt? Blue bolt x blue panda? Have you got any link with Good info about advanced Taiwan genetic? Any opinion about what to do with 4th box? Thank you very much Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

I really want one now, lol. I’ve looked at pictures and I want one!? Side note, but related, I joint an all shrimp group on FaceBook. The shrimp these people are breeding are breathtaking.

Thanks. I’m not too concerned, if I get some browns, I’ll cull them into the cull tank. My buddy has a 75 gallon he wants to stock up with anything I don’t want, so the culls have a permanent home. I’m not looking to develop a super straight or pure line anyway, I just like the shrimps. Besides, I already have both in the tank? Top off is done with pure RODI, this is something I learned from salt tanks. Thanks for the advice, but I assume it has to do with feeding ETC since I’ve been using pure water for top offs. Ah, I gotcha. Thanks for the response. I’ve really noticed the creep increasing since I’ve started dosing the Shrimp Fit. While it isn’t a lot, it’s more than when I was dosing just BacterAE. Previously I saw less of an increase. My main concern was how it may affect the shrimp. With the mix of CBS/CRS, what ratio of browns might I end up with? Will they have similar patterns to other crystals, but with the colored portion being brown? I actually don’t hate that.... Based on my reading, the brown should be somewhat the odd one out, correct? And if I’m not mistaken, somewhat of a generational dependent mutation. 2-3 generations in or so?

Really? Why bb x red panda? Have YOU got good results? I AM surprised Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

I finally setup my chiller, although it's ok, I find the temperature display a little messed up (not sure if its the controller or the chiller, I have a temperature gun on order to get a more accurate reading), when compared with my temperature controller, the figures are off, even when adjusting them, sometime it's 0.1c, 0.2c, 0.3c, 0.4c faster or slower, some times its the same, but either way, it's consider accurate, and reaches the same figures at the end with 25c kicks off and 26c kicks on. May be I should use the same sensor/probe then it could be more accurate, the temperature controller used a metal end sensor, whiles the Hailea used a plastic. it takes about 8 minutes from 26C to 25C. it takes about 49 minutes after the chiller reaches 25C to 26C. But the weather is a lot better than a few months ago.

I think you can get blue panda from blue bolt x red wine panda

Here is a picture of the tank from about 2 weeks ago, or 1 week after I added shrimp. The tank took about 3+ months to cycle, mainly because I wasn't watching the pH, and every time I added ammonium chloride or fertilizer it would drop the pH and stall the cycle. But during the cycling time when I added nutrients and lots of light, the s. repens and Ludwigia grew quickly. But now the s. repens growth has stalled (no more ferts). Same for the monte carlo. The peacock moss is growing very slowly, and it is also stringy and not highly branched, so there is something wrong with the growth parameters also. Regarding the light: it is programmable, so I can set the brightness to whatever, but since I don't have a light meter, I can't say absolutely how bright it is. But currently it is set so that it is at least visually dim compared to other aquariums I have seen, and the light is on for approx 8 hrs a day. (It ramps up and down) I will try what you suggested and make the light brighter but shorter duration. Anyway, I had read that the way to out-compete algae was to have the plants grow even faster, but so far they aren't growing much.

That's right, but that's not the only reason TDS would rise. TDS rises with waste from your shrimp/fish. Anything that sinks into the gravel will continue to dissolve and add to the TDS reading. TDS rises from left over food breaking down. The natural cycle of bacteria processing ammonia, into nitrites, and into nitrates alters TDS as well.

If your tank gets evaporation between water changes then the TDS will rise as the minerals etc don't evaporate with the water? If you top up between water changes you should use 'PURE' water with no minerals then the TDS will stay the same! This is the usual reason. Simon

@Steensj2004 Unless your really interested in getting Crystal brown shrimp or diluting your stock genetics would avoid mixing CBS with CRS. Havent read all the topic so not sure of your genetics.

Thanks. I was really just curious, as I’m not interested in mixing more than just Crystal Reds and Blacks. i have another question, maybe it’s a dumb one. My TDS creeps up slowly between water changes. Now, water changes bring it down as I remineralize to 150. How do I prevent these swings? I’m not using fertilizers anymore, is it from the powdered food? PH, GH, KN stay steady, but TDS creeps up by 15-ish TDS between weekly changes.

Not many. Maybe an Amano. They won't interbreed with Crystals, tigers, taiwan bees. We have an Australian shrimp called the Darwin Algae Shrimp (DAS) that doesn't interbreed as well. These need brackish (salt) water in the breeding cycle. But many people mix Crystals, tigers, taiwan bees to get Mischlings and hybrids. It's how we get these new fancy shrimps. Of course if you want to keep them pure, they need their own species tank.

Are there any Caridina that don’t interbreed? My buddy asked and I wasn’t sure.

@javierhnb, very nice shrimp. Keep it up.

What do you mean by dim? Light intensity? or length of photoperiod? If it was me, I would shorten photoperiod to 6 hours, but give the plants full light intensity, ie. 100% brightness. Dim lights benefit the algae. H2O2 at 1ml per gal is ok. I wouldn't use fertilisers, except for maybe root tabs, and even then only a very small piece deep into the substrate. Any other ferts will benefit the algae as much as the plants unless you take out as much algae as possible. Floating plants can't hurt. And as Simon said above, give it some time since this is a new tank. The plants in there have not rooted in yet. Once that happens, they should out compete the algae. Got a picture of the tank?

Yeah, we just go by age of the shrimp. There is no visual indication until you see a saddle. Up till then it's just a guess. Crystal shrimps are particularly difficult to gauge, since you can't see under the carapace until Cherry shrimps.

I want to upgrate this post. These are photos of my shrimps now. Blue bolt tank. I am getting some dark Bb. I AM happy. Panda tank . Red tank Kk and blue panda tank Enjoy them Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

Thanks. I have seen many videos about sexing shrimps... but i always have surprises... Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk