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I believe he has Ellobiopsids Disease? This is is a single remaining shrimp purchased from a LFS that imports their shrimp. My most recent batch of high grade reds is locally bred and appear healthier and are hardy. Thought the photo's might be helpful to others.

Welcome! Before messing about too much with the parameters you need to know what the parameters of the PLANNED occupants will be? Are you planning on Cherry Shrimp or Bee shrimps. They have different parameters, cherry shrimp are more adaptable and easier to keep and the PH of 7.6 would be fine and they will likely adapt to a lower PH if the soil buffers for a while. I am at the moment doing some testing to see if there is a quick way to exhaust a soil of buffering ability but way to early to be of any help to you as it will take time! Cherry shrimp should be ok with de-chlorinated tap water, do you know the other stats of your tap water, KH, GH, TDS, and the whole thing will need cycling which you obviously know from your post! You may find that the dragon stone will increase the PH in which case you will have a mini battle going on with the soil trying to reduce the PH and the stone trying to increase it?? I am not all that sure why you would want to do daily water changes? You are definitely doing the right thing by finding out BEFORE getting the shrimps and that way it is more likely to work out well! I am assuming you are going with cherry shrimps at this point, as taiwan bees/crystal are a whole different animal and a lot more difficult but let us know if you are planning on trying them? Simon

Fingers crossed, as JayC says watch the glass covered with biofilm and you will likely see them there but they will be tiny and it may take a few days for them to colour up. They were probably born somewhere sheltered and they don't move far from there for weeks so it could be a bit of a wait before you get to see them? There are many things that can go wrong so don't dwell on those yet just settle back and HOPE to get to see some shrimplets and the more time you spend looking (do you have a magnifying glass) at the tank the more likely it is you may spot something, so enjoy the search! I doubt she would have carried the eggs this long if they weren't viable! Hope to hear you have spotted something very soon. Simon

Sign of a caring shrimp keeper. Just keep doing what you are doing now. Give them a clean home with the right parameters, feed them good variety of foods, and they will have babies.

Give it a few days and see if you spot any babies on the glass.

Not sure if people do build threads around here, OR if I’m allowed, but here we go. Thanks to the wonderful guys in this forum, I’ve already purchased (2) additional tanks. One(9.6 gallon) and this (17.1 gallon) tank from Aquamaxx. Tanks arrived in excellent condition! My current tank has CRS inside, and they will eventually be moved into this 17 gallon. The back has been painted, and tomorrow I’ll start getting everything together! Thinking of using this tree like piece to hold some java moss. Make a tree of sorts. It will need trimmed down a bit to be within my liking, but I haven’t decided how, or what part to trim. Lighting: Fluval Plant 3.0 Nano. Filter: Dual Sided Sponge with Media Chambers Substrate: Amazonia II CO2: DIY System Plants: Java Moss, Staurogyne Repens, Dwarf Baby Tears( maybe), Alternanthera Reinecki

Hi, I’m brand new to the shrimp keeping hobby although I’ve kept fish most of my life. I’m setting up a 30L Dennerle nano cube with a Dennerle XL corner filter. I’ve used Aqua Grow plant soil. I ran the filter in my Malawi Cichlids tank for several days before filling up the cube with water from my cichlid tank and putting the filter in. The only thing I’ve put in the cube is soil and dragon rock. Checked the water this morning and everything looks perfect apart from PH @ 7.6. We have hard water where I live. My question....eventually, is do I need to do water changes every day before I put any plants in? It would seem a waste of time as I’m pretty sure the aqua soil should lower the PH but fresh water will keep it high. Of course, I could be totally wrong, hence the question on here. I’d really appreciate any advice as I want this right before any shrimp are introduced.

A character in my Loach Tank

My first venture was keeping Amano's. They have pretty well been trouble free. 29 gallon long.

The PH is the same as mine but that GH doesn't look right for UK tap water??? There isn't any reason I can think of that you shouldn't set up the tank and plants etc, and start cycling it but you will need the Parameters before you can sort out water. PH, GH, KH, TDS. The TDS meter is a great one as you can usually just use that when everything is up and running and it is so easy/quick to use? I use ProShrimp if you don't have anywhere local for anything you need! They don't usually charge delivery for a single small item! www.pro-shrimp.co.uk Simon

Ok, this is what I have up to now from the tap: PH 7.5 Ammonia 0 Nitrate 0 Nitrite 0 GH between 1 & 2 but it’s the first time I’ve ever tested for GH and it seems a bit hit and miss.

Thank you once again Simon, I’m going to test my tap water now. I’ve just ordered a cheap meter for TDS, are they reliable? I’ll post the results.

Thank you so much for that Simon. You are spot on with the occupants being cherry shrimp. I’ve been doing lots of YouTube viewing and I realise I need to get the basics right before I get over ambitious. I haven’t checked the parameters you mentioned but I will do and get back to you.

Thank you, I am retired and have the time to work with my tanks daily as they give me great enjoyment. A 50, 40 breeder, 29 long, and 10 gallon shrimp tank. He has a face only a mother could love!

you won't need to wipe it down with vinegar anymore. The bleach has now done the job of killing everything. Instead, rinse it out thoroughly. But I still wouldn't trust just doing that. Use your Prime undiluted and wipe the glass down. Dechlorinator helps neutralise bleach. Pay particular attention to the silicon joints. So use it liberally to wash the bleach away. If your hob was in contact with the bleach, that needs to be washed out by the dechlorinator as well. Don't forget the pump in the hob. Open it up and clean inside the impeller area. And no, it's not excessive. Any trace of bleach will ruin your tank. Better to be safe than see your tank suffer.

I'm going to drain 100%; Scrub the tank with a toothbrush and then wipe down with vinegar. Take off the motor on the HOB and re lube the o-ring and clean the impeller. Then fill back up with tap water and seachem prime daily (i've got a full bottle) and cycle for another week. I've only got the HOB filter with no media just to turn the water over. No sponge filters yet.

Hmmm, I thought we established that bleach = bad. Do you know how to clean it out?

Just to update everyone; I was successful in removing all the blue bolts; turned out to be about 60. I put them into a breeder box, a few have since passed away (maybe about 5). But the rest look like they are doin okay. I had to empty out the other cube (with CBS) and relocate them into the main tank as well in preparation of some PRL. I was able to source them from a reputable breeder. Looking forward to having them settle into the tank on the right which has been established for about 9 months. I'm planning to drain the water out of the middle tank (it's been cycling with bleach for about 3 days) then refill and squeeze some of the filter sponges into the existing tank water to hopefully seed the filter. I'll try to get some photos once they settle in.

Man, I’m nervous. I sure hope they make it....

Hmmmm, I don’t see eggs anymore, and I don’t see her fanning her swimmerets the same. How soon might I be able to see the babies? is it possible for her to drop no babies and no eggs to have hatched?

Nice planted aquarium.

Parasitic dinoflagellates and ellobiopsids (Ellobiopsidae) or Cladogonium ogishimae I will refer to both here as there is little studies on these parasites and a general lack of evidence of both types of parasites. Plus a lot of people have been calling this ellobiopsidae for many years. What we deal with in freshwater shrimp is more likely Cladogonium ogishimae, rather than ellobiopsidae. The reason Cladogonium ogishimae fits better is because it: Infects freshwater shrimp, found on the shrimp's pleopods, and turns green eventually. Ellobiopsidae, of which there are thousands of species and many of them are parasitic. Dinoflagellates and ellobiopsids are major parasites in marine invertebrates and fishes. Ellobiopsidae seem to appear on the tops of shrimps, rather than on the pleopods. The possible treatments for both will remain the same. These parasites invade the host's eggs, digestive tract, soft tissue and blood of the organism, who eventually, succumbs resulting in mortality. They propagate by spores, and if any are seen on your shrimp, care must be take to remove the infected shrimp immediately to minimise the spread to other shrimp. Diagnosis: In freshwater shrimps, the Cladogonium ogishimae or ellobiopsidae appear as green to yellow-green vegetation, reminiscent of a fungal infection. Often the infected area is between the swimming legs of shrimp and the swimmerettes (or pleopods). It has a mould like appearance. It's been mainly seen on shrimps imported from Asia. Possibly from poor water conditions. Treatment: There is evidence that a dip in formalin (Attention: carcinogenic and toxic!) could be successful. The only treatment that I know of that has worked is medication with Formalin & Malachite green combo. Separate infected shrimp immediately. And treat the infected shrimp outside of the tank in a hospital tank or a temporary container. Follow the product's instructions for dosage amount and duration. Some off the shelf products with Formalin that also includes malachite green include Fritz Mardel QuICK Cure is one such product. Aquasonic has one too. https://www.aqualifeaquarium.com.au/aquasonic-formalin-malachite-green-solution-100ml Kordon Rid Ick Plus also uses the same ingredients. Seachem Paraguard Eco Labs BSDT32 Broad Spectrum Disease Treatment https://a.co/d/97dwbNn Chances of success and survival of the shrimp depends on how early you diagnose the issue. If left for too long, the shrimp might not survive the formalin & malachite green treatment.