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Not sure if people do build threads around here, OR if I’m allowed, but here we go. Thanks to the wonderful guys in this forum, I’ve already purchased (2) additional tanks. One(9.6 gallon) and this (17.1 gallon) tank from Aquamaxx. Tanks arrived in excellent condition! My current tank has CRS inside, and they will eventually be moved into this 17 gallon. The back has been painted, and tomorrow I’ll start getting everything together! Thinking of using this tree like piece to hold some java moss. Make a tree of sorts. It will need trimmed down a bit to be within my liking, but I haven’t decided how, or what part to trim. Lighting: Fluval Plant 3.0 Nano. Filter: Dual Sided Sponge with Media Chambers Substrate: Amazonia II CO2: DIY System Plants: Java Moss, Staurogyne Repens, Dwarf Baby Tears( maybe), Alternanthera Reinecki

We definitely do!! Xmas moss is similar to Java moss, but prettier. The fronds grow in that Christmas tree shape, rather than long strands like Java moss.

Saw this on planted tank forums. Still stumped. Makes no sense at all why 'pods wouldn't die -or the other side be fine- if it's any toxicity issue -which is almost always the case. All I can say is I'm sorry this has happened and when my colony is back up I'll hook you up if you can wait a couple of months. No logical reason that an aquarium sharing water would have one color of the same species perish that I can even think of.

Thanks for all the help. I leave you with this before I start a tank build thread....

LOL! Keep us updated Spongy. What are you planning on feeding them?

Wow, that's a difficult one. Especially when one side of the tank is fine. And seed shrimp are usually the first to go if it's water related. Can you post a picture of the tank? Not one survivor? All dead?

Mum has popped. I must say, there must be well over 100 babies. Thankfully a small yield, but then I guess my odds are worse for survivors. We have moved Mum back into the main tank. Her partner must have missed her, he was riding around on her back. Lol. The babies are now in brackish water. Fingers (and everything really) crossed. Picture attached, although all you can see are white dots. Lol. They are all moving about. x

Rethinking plants, I may carpet with the Repens I have, and use Christmas moss on the tree . Things will be on on hold for a bit, waiting on more Amazonia ?

You are correct, both the Flourish & Bacter AE are evenly distributed to both sides The water easily flows from one side to the other. When I first filled the tank, there was about 1 second lag to equalize the level between sides. The reason I started (since the end of May) doing 25% weekly was my Nitrates were constantly in the 20-40ppm range. It's down to around 10ppm since I put the Salvinia Cucullata in,. Recently it's been turning brown, so I was advised a couple of weeks ago by the seller to dose it with Flourish. Basically, I'm going to ignore the blue side except I will still add the occasional Bacter AE just on the off chance there are new born in there alive, nothing to lose. If nothing shows up, I'll decontaminate everything in the blue side and start the new tank Even though I changed 2.5 gallon, I add 1ml API Water Conditioner (which is a 5 gallon dose) to the new water bucket when it's at the correct temperature (again, normal procedure). My hands are washed before and after I touch the tanks and well rinsed. My other tank is on another floor in my house, so I have tank specific equipment to eliminate cross contamination.

I took the heater out anyway and inspected it, no cracks, no moisture in it. My thought exactly about the seeded filter, why take a chance. Actually I have two new 20 gallon tanks, one for the reds and one for the blues. Only food they received (past few weeks, both sides are fed the same, at the same time) was Bacter AE, Aquatic Arts Sinking Pellets, Hikari Crab Cuisine & Azoo Max Breed The water is slowly introduced into the tank through a 3/16" airline tube, takes close to an hour.

Same original colony no additions on either side. No survivors that I can see, no deaths yet in red side. Pool filter sand, piece of cuttlebone, Marimo Ball, Java Moss & Feeding Dish. All has been there since day one. 40ppi foam block under glass divider allows water exchange, no forced flow. Same on both sides. Every week, I do a water parameter test on alternating side, I siphon 2.5 gallons of water from same side, do any necessary cleaning on both sides, refill to same side through 3/16 inch diameter airline tubing, 1/2 scoop of Bacter AE premixed in tank water & add 2.5ml of Flourish to each side from same dropper. Very first time I did a water change (28 weeks age) , I poured the water in and had 3/4 die off.

Very sorry to hear this. I had a similar (just 1 tank though, not split) and the heater cooked the shrimps? I can see a heater on the right half but you say 76 so I am guessing it isn't that? You are right that the parameters look good. Maybe, if you have a new 20 gallon tank anyway and they were going in to that you should just set that up afresh and don't use ANYTHING from the old tank blue side. What about food? Have you used any NON ORGANIC fresh vegetables or leaves that may have pollution on them, ie collected at the roadside? Do you drip the new water into the tank? Simon

Also check out Brineshrimpdirect.com for food that can be used. https://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/algae-pastes/ Ideally, you'd want to start feeding from day 2 onwards. that's when the egg sac is depleted.

There are slow growing mosses but they all seem to grow too well in my tanks, always discarding or giving the stuff! The easiest way (may not be the cheapest) is to superglue the moss to the wood rather than trying to tie it on. It needs to be non toxic and aquarium safe though! CO2 I wouldn't bother with, too many people have problems that stop as soon as they stop using it so best not to waste time and money? Simon

It is definitely on the list with the cooling fans but I will wait until I am certain this tank is going to work first, no point buying it if I am giving up on the taiwan bee shrimp, and that all depends on how this goes longer term. I have had a few heaters break in the past but they just stopped working and to be honest (and I am not proud to say I was this stupid) it never occurred to me that it could stick on? Until the point I get one of these you can rest assured I am keeping a very close eye on the temperature daily and the new heater has a flashing light showing the water temperature and the heater is set at 22 so there is a long way to where it would happen again and as summer here is over and it is now under 20 degrees outside in theory the temperature shouldn't go over the 22! I did see 1 dead new blue bolt/steel yesterday but have seen 7 today alive, woohoo! Simon

Great news I hope it continues to work out. I read yesterday that an amano can carry up to 2000 eggs? The book says they need salinity of 25g per litre. Larvae eat Liquizell or similar it says, whether that is any help I don't know. If you can get this working you might be able to make some money as these shrimps are probably the most used in the majority of fish aquariums? Simon edit - I found this which seems very informative. I get yeast powder and spirulina powder readily from sainsburys if that helps. http://aquariumbreeder.com/amano-shrimp-detailed-guide-care-diet-and-breeding/

Suggestions? Is Xmas moss similar?

And your Blue Dreams have been in that tank for 29 weeks prior to this? Any survivors? What is on the bottom of both tanks? How are the two sides connected? Can you describe your tank maintenance regime ? What do you do at each water change?

Thank you for your offer. I did have a similar issue early in my shrimp tank, but I think it was because I did a water change like I do my fish tank. I think I shocked them, but that was 6 months ago. That's why I did the water test right away and every parameter looks normal. Everyone says that seed shrimp are a sign of a healthy tank. I could never understand why I never got the breeding explosion on either side that everyone talks about, but I thought that maybe it was because of the size of the tank. That's one reason that I'm sitting right next to a pair of 20 gallon tanks ready to set up. I have a filter seeding on the red side now, but I don't know if I should trust it. I can see shrimpets on the red side still and everyone is eating fine, no red deaths.

Nothing better than a clean start and you even have a hardscape outline going. Only change I would consider is not letting one cell of Java moss in that tank and starting with a prettier moss. Because Java will (not might) overtake it all. All the fissidens, xmas moss, etc. I own is in Java free tanks. Just food for thought. The shrimp don't care, just our eyes.

I agree, even these branded ones are less reliable these days, compared to those made 10-20 years ago.

Here it is:

That's the same reason I use mine too. It's protection that will turn off a malfunctioning heater. It will do so when you are not there. The problem with thermometers is that it relies on you seeing the problem, and you manually turning off the heater. This temp controller monitors and turns off the heater if it gets too hot, without any intervention from me. I could be asleep and this would still protect my tanks from overheating due to a stuck heater. I've had too many malfunctioning heaters to risk it again. Even so called reputable brands can have issues with the heaters getting stuck on.

With mulberry leaves, either method is just as good. Dried leaves last longer and can be left in the tank. Fresh leaves have higher nutrition. So alternate the two. With fresh leaves you can drop them in fresh, but the shrimp won't eat them until it goes soft. So it's great for feeding when you go on holiday. Or you can blanch the fresh leaf and drop it into the tank, the shrimps will eat that sooner. Dried leaves are also good for when you go away. It's on my shrimps staple diet for a while now. You should try it.Don't put too much in however, just enough for one per shrimp.

I took a look at my shrimp tank this afternoon, all my Blue Dream shrimp are dead or dying. This is a 10 gallon divided tank sharing water. No dead shrimp on the red side at all. Water parameters are: pH 7.6 ppm, HI pH 7.4 ppm, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10 ppm, GH 8 dKH, KH 3 dKH, TDS red side 204 – blue side 197, 76°. I checked the water before I did the 25% water change 3 days ago and the only difference is the TDS is 9 points lower now. I have live seed shrimp on both sides. Both sides are feed the same food at the same time. Both side received 2.5ml of Flourish each after the water change. I've had the shrimp in the tank for 29 weeks. I never had a large breeding explosion like some report, but I constantly see shrimpets. Anyone have any ideas what caused this?

sorry to hear that, do you know what killed the shrimps. hope the blue bolt do well.