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Leaderboard

  1. fishmosy

    fishmosy

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  2. revolutionhope

    revolutionhope

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  3. Tricky

    Tricky

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  4. jayc

    jayc

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/14/17 in all areas

  1. fishmosy
    At the request of a member, here are a few shots from my current set-up showing my PVC looped air supply. Its based on my old set-up (see link below), but rejigged for a rack. For those of you who are unaware, this is my rack: Circumstances were such that I could not build the air supply onto the back of the rack until the rack was in place with tanks running. It would have been much nicer if I could have set it up first, so I encourage you to do this if you want to make something similar. I will show you the main problem later on. A (really) simple schematic for the loop is: The PVC loop is cable-tied onto the back of my rack system so is able to be dismantled if I need to move the rack. The top line is joined to a Resun LP20 air pump using a rubber hose with a special joiner that can slide (in and out) and twist (i.e. rotate) - this minimizes vibration and therefore noise from the pump. I can't remember what this joiner is called, but I found it at Bunnings. Hose clamps are used to hold the rubber hose in place (for peace of mind). Luckily I have a high shelf nearby that I can use to sit the air pump on. Remember it is very important to position the air pump above the position of the tanks so that if the power goes off, the water from the tanks will not back siphon into the air pump and ruin it. Alternatively you can use a one-way valve in front of the air pump, but having seen so many of them fail, I do not trust one-way valves at all. Each 'rung' on the loop has a series of 4mm outlets which I use to attach air line to the sponge filters in the tanks. Details for the taps are in my 'air supply' thread (linked above). The taps can be found at specialist irrigation shops or online. Bunnings does not carry them. There is one regret I have with this system. The top 'rung' does not reach the top of the tanks on the top level of the racks (see below). This means there is some risk that the water from these tanks could back siphon into the air supply if the power goes off. So far that hasn't happened, but the potential is there. Unfortunately it was a consequence of the rack and tanks being set up first - the rack was too close to the wall to fit the air supply around the blind that sits behind the tank. If I need to move this rack I will cut the PVC pipe and add inserts so the top 'rung' sits at the same height as the tanks.
  2. revolutionhope
    2 points
    One last update - berried shrimps seem to be holding and there was apparently a new batch dropped within the last week Ive found several baby shrimplets. I will not hesitate to use planaria zero again in future based on this experience. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will
  3. Matuva
    1 point
    Did you treat just one dose, or did you dose it like recommended, on a 3 days basis? If just one shot, monitor your tank, asit might be not enough to kill all hydra. If you have dosed on the regular basis, chance your hydras are gone 100%, but chance you may have your snails dying in the coming days. Beware of nitirte spike. Test your water and do water change if necessary. I like a lot Planaria zero, shrimp safe, and does a perfect job against planaria, hydra, and even ramshorn snails. Just be sure to not overdose do a water change after the 3rd day.
  4. jayc
    Yes, it's a lot harder to dissolve. Works best in cold water. You could put a bit into the tank, and it will dissolve slowly.
  5. Tricky
    Found out its only the old packaging to the new packaging, foe any other that might want to no, I only wanted to no as my aquarium shop sells the ada amazonia silver bag, Thanks
  6. fishmosy
    1 point
    Number #457 and #502 solves the riddle of why I blanked out two of the tanks http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2015/index1.html

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