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I'm a new member here but I've been stalking your forums for ages & always found answers to my questions. I only keep cherry shrimp (paint fire red / yellow / black / blue dreams / yellow rili experiment) & am very proud of my yellow colony which is well established & has been heavily culled in early days & I add new genetics regularly to keep the colony fresh & healthy. Apologies for poor quality phone pictures & reflections - I'm definitely not a photographer lol I've also added a pic of my red colony [emoji7] the original & still a favourite

Thanks so much - I'm glad you like them :) I like to show the quality of entire colony not just the best shrimp in the colony. It is certainly a very active colony & very large in numbers, but they don't seem to mind :) I will be splitting them into 3 tanks soon - currently setting up 2 new tanks for them - one will isolate the neon striped paint grades to see if I can breed the highest grade possible & the other just splitting up the numbers - (just in case something was to happen to the mother colony). It's taken me a couple of years to get the quality up to this standard & as I said I'm very proud of them [emoji16]

That's mighty impressive. Well done Vicki.

OK, found it : 1 bleach for 19 water. 1 mn soak and then rince with clear water Cleaning on schedule this week-end

Very nice tank full (and i mean full) of yellows. They are a great colour.

Welcome shrimp lover :) (I'm surprised that the nickname shrimp lover was still available - I guess everyone would've thought it was taken) :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Without knowing the GH and KH of the water, using liquid test kits, I'd say it's hard to tell for sure.... Test strips just aren't nearly as accurate and can be more limiting in information. Regardless of whether or not she survives, you may still need to change your water parameters. If the water parameters are within acceptable ranges, then it could be a "one off" thing and you shouldn't change anything *unless* you start seeing more shrimp with this issue.

May be a pregnant female do drop her eggs because of stress?

Hi Matuva, I have a warts and all blog on a fish keeping forum; If it works I say so and if it is a disaster I give afull account of what went wrong. The wall of moss failed, it went brown and died off over a few months. This has happened to other fish keepers to who contacted me to say that I was not alone with this miserable failure. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!. Good luck with your wall, I hope it works. Andrew.

Welcome Vicki. I'll have to put that into my dictionary for the new shrimpkeepers.

Hi@AquaLars these are most certainly bloody mary shrimp :-) They are derived from the chocolate/dark variant of wild cherry. Depending on the lighting it is possible to see that the colour shows from more depth than the red cherries.. (despite being a darker hue of course as well) [emoji173] [emoji111] [emoji444] Will

Actually, Bloody Mary are a different color. They come from the chocolate line, and if bred with cherries (preferably painteds), the offspring will also be red. When it comes to any color of Neo shrimp, you will have to cull (remove from population) as a line could produce higher and lower grade colored shrimp. If you buy sakura, you will still get low grade cherries and maybe some fire reds. Not to say you should do it, but just letting you know!

It's actually better to purchase juveniles instead of adults. Juvenile shrimp are going to be able to adapt to different water parameters better than adults, thus less deaths. You might contact Han and see if he breeds the sakura or fire red shrimp? If not, bloody mary shrimp are a cool alternative! One has a clear body and a red shell, where-as the other one has a red body and clear shell. (although some may have shell coloration, too)

You have shrimp in the tank while it is still cycling? I thought the tank was empty apart from plants. In that case, yes, lower the temps. The bacteria colonisation will slow a bit compared to a warmer temp, but you have to think about the shrimp in there as a priority. Now that you have livestock in there, I suggest you look into getting that "Bacteria in a bottle" to boost bacteria growth asap. Or squeeze the junk from an old filter media into your tank. It might look dirty, but it will boost bacteria numbers instantly, and the dirty look will be gone after a short period. Try to avoid cycling a new tank with shrimps in it. As contentious as the subject is, a fish would have had a better chance of survival in a new tank than shrimp. It takes a while to see the effects of shrimp exposed to too much ammonia.

Ouch! And to think a simple, cheap piece of foam could have prevented that from happening.

Thank you very much zoidburg, jayc, and jc12. I will raise the temp to 80-82 today and will do a WC. Tap water is at 7.6 ph. My tds and ph meter are coming in within the next 2-3 days. Also, i was very confused about the Cu test, so thanks for clearing that up. Will get some ceramic noodles for the wasted space in my filter. Also, im gonna stop co2 injection and add a sponge filter sponge to cap off the filter tube. And jc12, i think the filter is good for its price, very simple no priming needed and nice size but the only thing that i hated was the tubing that came with it. Its so stiff that my inflow tube has to make a loop like a coil in order to attach it to the filter. Might get replacement hose once this onegets dirty :) If anyone feels like i need to read an article or specific forum/thread, feel free to point it out for me. I don't mind the reading if it can help improve me. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

+10 to everything zoidburg said. 28degC or 82-83degF is ideal for growing bacteria. You don't need it at 86° F. Too cold and too hot can slow bacteria growth. TDS meter is highly recommended as already mentioned. The 2 other things I would do is change the filter media: 1) Remove the coarse sponge, keep the fine and medium sponge. Fill the space with biological filter media like ceramic noodles, marine pure spheres, eheim substrat pro, biohome. The more the better. Maximise the Sunsun 602b's wasted space with this bio media. The space under the plastic stand can house a layer of bio media. The space on the top plastic tray can also hold a layer of bio media. 2) Stop CO2 injection until the tank is cycled. CO2 drops pH, whereas bacteria like higher pH. If you want a faster cycling time, keep the pH up above 7. After cycling you can drop it to 6.6-6.8. The tank's current 6.4 pH is already slowing bacteria multiplying. Our tap water in Aus is usually 7.8 pH, which is perfect for cycling tanks. So if your tap water is similar, do a water change now to raise pH.

Bump your tank up to 86° F during the cycle. It will help the bacteria grow a bit faster. Once the cycle is over, you can drop it back down to 68-72° F. Shouldn't need any carbon in the filter, unless you are trying to clean the water/remove meds. Probably don't need the copper test. Maybe ask your LFS if they can test for it? Been in the hobby for about a year, give or take... I don't have a copper test and I don't believe most hobbyists use one. Unless you have an issue with large amounts of copper in your water or you have a lot of copper pipes, I'd just recommend putting that money towards a TDS meter instead.

Had a 90 gallon tank that was 5' long... Exact dimensions were 60 L x 18 W x 20 H Started out with about 20 shrimp in that tank, give or take. Didn't have any issues with the males finding the females. Males *will* swim all over the tank looking for that female!

Congrats. Always good to get new ones.

Great looking male@revolutionhope