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As a general comment, I disagree with the idea that you should leave larvae without food for "X" number of days. You should have food present prior to when the larvae are first capable of feeding for two reasons: 1. Larvae develop at different rates, so some will be ready to feed before the point where the rest of a cohort of larvae begin to feed. Furthermore, being in the presence of food is likely to illicit a feeding response or hasten the development of feeding structures. 2. The longer the larvae rely on larval nutritional reserves, the more the reserves are depleted. This has important implications for growth. Larvae with poor nutritional reserves grow slower and are more likely to die.

Here are 2 pictures of some aura blue i recieved 2 months ago. Took me nearly 2 years to get some reasonably priced ones

Good luck raising them.

I've been transferring larvae to saltwater as soon as I'm seeing them. Except, it's 3am, I've already moved a *lot* of babies, and there are still a *lot* to be moved and hatched... so those guys may have to wait a tad longer... And this being from a female that dropped her eggs approximately 2 weeks prior to when they were "due", set up in a brine shrimp hatchery, and hatched less than 12 hours later... I fed the saltwater tank with powdered algae before I even added any shrimp. Only a tiny amount. (before I even knew I had babies, which, I guess, was 2 days ago from the first female, and only managed to get a handful... as in, could count on one hand... second female, hundreds of babies!)

I can well understand the need to revitalise and attract more members in todays online world, but I have a bit of an issue with making the new name too generic, ideally I believe the name should still hold to its roots which was shrimp. The other reason I think that SHRIMP and AUSTRALIA (or Australasia) needs to be in the name somewhere is because otherwise we will be attracting (potentially) a lot of people from overseas who do not have the same invert/moss/ plant/ fish restrictions that we do. Believe me as a MOD on another international forum it gets very tiresome having to explain over and over again that in Australia we can not just go buy some assassin snails to clear up pest snails. And that is just one instance, then there are the people that can not believe some of the extreme prices we can end up paying for certain creatures/ plants in the hobby and can not figure out that what is common in their country is probably down right rare here, and with more things being added to the banned import list going to get rarer. Also being too generic the site could end up with people wanting Aquatic Frogs sections for species such as African Clawed Frogs, or Newts and Salamanders. Although I could see merit in having a section for aquatic amphibians and reptiles we can keep, I see it as a bad idea if we had lots of people asking about ACF and we have to keep redirecting them to other sites better suited to them. At least with a name like Australasian Invert Keepers people in this general part of the world looking for Invert forums should be able to find the site easily. The site can always add more topic areas for the planted, fish, and even photography followers of the forum.

Melafix and Pimafix don't work either, apparently. I've not met anyone first hand that has cured it. Mostly, someone has heard of someone else type of stories. If you send a PM to me with the links to those pages where people have documented successful treatment methods, it would be appreciated.

I've moved this topic to the Shrimp Health & Care section, as it is appropriate to this topic. There is some discussion this thread I am maintaining. More detailed discussion in this thread... Unfortunately, Geoff's shrimp were too far infected and didn't make it through treatment. The only treatment that I know of that has worked is medication with Formalin & Malachite green combo. Some off the shelf products with Formalin that also includes malachite green include Fritz Mardel QuICK Cure is one such product. Aquasonic has one too. Kordon Rid Ick Plus also uses the same ingredients. Not sure about #6 Kordon Herbal Ich Attack, as we can't get that readily in Aus, but the rest won't work.

I use a worming product that has fenbendazole (different to flubendazole) as the active ingredient. I use Panacur100 (100g fenbendazole per litre) at a dose rate of 8ml per 100 litres. You can also get Panacur25 (25g fenbendazole per litre) in which case I'd dose 32ml per 100 litres. It clears planaria, hydra and also worms the fish. Shrimp are fine IME. Panacur is a livestock wormer and I think the smallest bottle is 1 litre and not cheap. You might find other worming products in smaller quantities.. or someone else on this forum will pitch in with a source. lots of info if you google search for fenbendazole and shrimp. Also see flubendazole (as opposed to fenbendazole). They seem to do the same job but are different compounds.