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Hi all. Just wondering what people are using to keep track of their tanks, inhabitants and readings? I settled on Nyagua, after looking at several programs, both free and fee based. Nyagua is free, and Java based, though at the moment it is only available for Windows platform. There is a Linux version listed, but it is for an older version, and the guy doing the updates has moved on to other things. Since I started using it, about 14 moths ago, there have been several updates released, and it is improving with each update. (I have actually become a contributor to it). It has a main database for fish, invertibrates and plants, that you add to yourself (you can import directly from fishbase.org), this is so the database isn't massive and only contains the fish, inverts and plants your interested in. This database is then the source for listing the inhabitants in your tank(s). You can set up tracking of multiple tanks, listing the plants, inhabitants, expenses, water test results (fresh & marine), maintenance schedule, history, devices & their power consumption. You can run reports (with filters), on a specific tank, expenses, water test results, (as well as graph them), your plants, fish & invertibrates, and an estimated power consumption report .. handy. You can add images to the database for fish, etc. as well as adding a picture of your tank. It has calculators for pH-kH-CO2 relationship, heater calculator, pump flow, a nutrient calculator and several converters. I must mention that the pH-kH-CO2 calculator is also included in the test result page, along with a 'true Ammonia' calculation, which when calculated will also highlight in colour to indicate for CO2 - low, optimum, high or toxic & for NH3 - good, high, toxic. It has a scheduler, but at the moment, it only provides a reminder on start up, but the author is looking at the possibility of using the Google APIs to push the schedule to Google Calendar & send the alerts to your Smartphone. Anyway, enough of my ravings ... let's here about what you use.

Hi @neo-2FX, glad you like it. You can see the Neutrik connectors in the photo, (black & yellow), one just to the right of the CO2 tank & 2 more just to the right of the filter, with the obligatory 'drip loop'. Yes you have to cut the cable and fit them, and you buy them as a male & female connector (sold separately - $12 each). To connect them you simply push together & twist, and a slide (yellow) locks them together. To disconnect, you pull back the yellow slide back and twist in the opposite direction. Now the way they are designed, it locks the electrical cable solidly into the connector, using compression, and the whole thing, once connected, strentgh wise, it's as if there is no connector. (does that make sense?) I bought them from Derringer Music in Adelaide, (hugh place, servicing individuals to bands), as they are most commonly used connecting electronic musical instruments, amplifiers, etc. They simplify setting up and breaking down concerts. You should be able to find them at a similar place in Melbourne. The tool hangers are primarily 3M Command clear picture hooks & cable clips (all removable), except the acrylic hanger (for syringes), on the lower section of the left door, (I designed it & a local acrylc fabricator made it up for me), and the commercially bought acrylic aquascape tool hanger (eBay), on the upper section of the right door. This one though is in two sections, one piece you can screw to a wall or door, and then the tool hanger section slides into it. Where are they used? The cable clips are the white clips on the left door, which hold my flexible pipe cleaner, and the 3M Command hooks are used for the rigid bottle brushes (top of left door), and 2 of them to hang the stainless steel sand flatener, on the right door. The blue mat on the floor of the cabinet is a piece of 'yoga mat' cut to size (completely eliminates any vibration from the filter & acts as a sound dampener). I also used a strip on the left wall for the CO2 bottle to rest against, and a small piece on the right hand door, to stop the sand flattener making a noise every time I opened or closed the door. Hope that answers any questions. :-D

The numbers? There had to be at least a thousand in there. I did pick out about three amazing looking ones I put in with my other cherry colony.

I reset the three foot tank and set it aside for my TB line. (Another sad story, lol has not been my year) have also added some yellow cherries to this tank. I kept about ten of my original CRS line and have also had some of @ineke's added to the colony. So hopefully will have a revival over coming months, plus the bonus of nice red legs from many of Inekes line.

I'd like to share a video about the best shrimp on the Hannover shrimp show 8th edition with you. Have fun.

Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Anthony Rae. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin

Did you run UV sterilization? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was the closest I got to purple:

This is a subject that facinates me. How people organise the space in the cabinet below the tank. Here's my contribution. The cabinet is organised using cable management trays, to keep all the wiring out of the way. I fitted all the power cables with Neutik PowerCon True 1 in-line connectors, to facilitate removal of the equipment without having to pull all the cables out of the cable management trays. You simply pull back a slide & twist and the equipment can be removed, (these connectors are popular with musicians, for all their equipment). I made up a temperature monitoring/control unit using an STC1000, and based the design on several on youtube and various forums. It is capable of controlling both a heater and a chiller, keeping the temperature within +/- 1C. I simply set the heater's control to 1 degree above what I want, and then if the heater goes rogue, no harm, as the STC shuts it down. The same applies to a chiller. If the STC faults, it shuts down and sounds an alarm, (popular with the home brew crowd). Water comes down from the tank & directly into the Fluval 406, (centre), then outputs to a Hydor Eth200 in-line heater, and then a Sera CO2 reactor 1000, which I have plumbed in, (along the right hand wall), in clear acrylic and vinyl tubing. (the whole assembly is held in place using marine plastic clips, and is easily removed for cleaning/servicing/replacement of equipment). The Fluval's quick release system allows easy removal for cleaning/servicing. On the left side is the CO2 cyclinder, which feeds the Sera Co2 reactor, via CO2 proof tubing, which runs across the inside top of the cabinet, and held in place with some 3M clear picture hooks. (the small ones are just right to hold 6mm CO2/airline tubing). I solved the problem of 'air gurgling' in the reactor, by fitting some in line valves in the CO2 tubing and a t-piece, that enables me to 'bleed' the air out, when it first starts up. A one-way check valve is fitted in-line on the cylinder side of the 'air bleed' set up. The second picture shows a timber 'cube' unit I have set up to hold most of the other things I need regularly, for the tank. I have fitted acrylic shelves (custom made) to the side to hold food, fertilisers, water conditioners, bacteria cultures and the tubing I use for water changes. The main shelves hold test kits, more food & water conditioners, and general cleaning items. I hope you enjoy, and maybe it gives you some ideas for your set up.

Hi to all, New to keeping shrimp, and learning fast. I have a high tech aquascape (120Lt) with Otos, Pygmy Cory, Ember Tetra, Red Cherry & Darwin Algae shrimp. The Red Cherry's ae breeding constantly, and I beleive I have had one batch of Darwin Algae shrimp, only because I now have some that are far smaller than the original purchase. I have a second smaller low tech tank (27Lt) with a couple Otos and newly introduced CRS, and on a crash course of learning, despite lots of research beforehand. Seems you never stop learning about these little guys. :-D

Mine stay on the bottom so for me at the moment not an issue. That said, I do always check the garage floor before driving in now lol

I was concerned they might escape but my tops are definitely not completely sealed and they have not tried to escape so far. I would just be careful that they do not startle your shrimp and cause them to accidentally flip out of the water over the side. The shrimp take a little while to get used to the crabs. Mine ride them and chew on them now but they would freak out a bit the first couple of days when a crab came near.

Iv not had a great run with the tank unfortunately i got a bacterial infection and then got cRamped back syndrome ( check the shrimp diseases and diagnosis sticky for a pic of my actual shrimp) so what did survive the bacterial infection quite a few got culled due to cramped backs it was bloody devastating. Iv been meaning to do a full update to show the changes iv done to the tank so I'll get onto that over the next few days. I managed to keep some alive and im slowly rebuilding my colonies. The CRS are going well now though lots of babies that are almost at juvie size.

Really depends on your expectations, and selective breeding goals. Other factors is whether you are prepared to purchase shrimps to add to your quality/line, and/or decide to just use what you've got ! Yes, I've had similar experience with my culls becoming a lot better then initially graded, BUT at the end of the day it's quality was still a "cull" category.....again, depends on the depth of your expectations and goals. I too find it extremely difficult to cull my babies, BUT, for the better good of quality, it has to be done :-)

My shrimps tank.

and first post! my 36L