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Leaderboard

  1. Disciple

    Disciple

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  2. Mr. F

    Mr. F

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  3. jayc

    jayc

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  4. buck

    buck

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/16 in all areas

  1. Mr. F
    Hello, new here but have been breeding neos a while. My greens came from an orange/neon yellow mixed colony. It was long and many wts came out of the process, but I ended up with some gorgeous shrimp. Most of the stabilized lines I know of, like green jade and lime green, come from Orange. There are also the lesser known nessies. They are dark green, but originate from Orange. Here are a couple from my slime green neo line: For reference:
  2. Disciple
    2 points
    My contribution to Monday blues. My new oebt video.
  3. jayc
    I don't know if there is a correct answer for this. I was lazy last winter, so I left it connected but turned off. However, this coming winter I am planning on disconnecting it and draining it, to remove any gunk that might have built up. I am going to stick the garden hose in through the outlet port (opposite to the normal flow) and blasting it with high water pressure. Store it dry. Do not leave water in it while in storage. Aquarium chillers will need routine maintenance such as removing the front grille and vacuum the build-up of dust. This is easy to perform and greatly helps your chillers performance. This can be done without disconnecting the hoses, and can be done anytime. Aquarium chillers used in a Marine tank will need to be flushed with vinegar to remove any calcium buildup. But I don't think this is necessary for freshwater tanks.
  4. Disciple
    Great Shrimp @Mr. F
  5. waffle
    @Mr. F, those are really nice greens!! Thanks for sharing the pics! Sounds like developing a stable green line is pretty far beyond my scope at the moment but I'll file it away for a more advanced project when I've skilled up in the shrimp keeping trade.
  6. Disciple
    Great info from @jayc as usual. I just wanted to add that once you have your canister running as Jayc mentioned you will need to adjust the flow. The reason is, if the flow is too slow the water in the chiller will cool too fast making the chiller stop prematurely (a mistake I made earlier in the year, It took me awhile to realise why it was constantly starting and stopping). On the flip side if the flow is too fast it will not effectively cool the water either. You will have to experiment with the flow until you get it just right.
  7. jayc
    @chad590, both will work. It just depends on how much flow you want in your tank. But remember, the rated canister flow will be greatly reduced due to prefilter mesh/sponge intakes, filter media, chiller, and spraybars. So a 206gph rating of the Fluval 206, might actually only be 160gph. So if you thought that 206gph was a lot of water movement, it isn't after it's installed in the loop. In regards to choosing a canister filter, I would personally choose the bigger, more powerful canister (where practical). That means picking the 206. The extra filter media space is important, you can never have enough biological filter media. The bigger canister ensures that there is enough flow rate to run the extra chiller, flow is reduced when adding those things mentioned above. And if you find flow is too strong in the tank and blows everything around, it is a lot simpler to reduce flow. Whereas, it's near impossible to increase flow from a smaller, underpowered canister.
  8. buck
  9. buck
  10. Disciple
    1 point
    I am so disappointed I dont know what to say ?
  11. Jo
    1 point
    Hmmmn, technically you'd be after @neo-2FX I'm afraid @Disciple - but maybe if you help me fix my tank Ph problems and I'll see whether you get bumped up the order ;)

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