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I'm in agreement with both 2 and 3. "Pure" to me implies that the parents are one type of shrimp (be it a variant or species) and produce 100% (or close to) offspring that are the same. Anything descended from a recent mischling or other hybrid cross cannot be 'pure' because it will always contain genes from that hybrid cross. I like the idea of using "pure" to define old school, defined variants (such as CRS or CBS, or tiger) that have not been crossed with any other variants, and using "line bred" to define variants with a hybrid ancestory that produce 100% (or very close to i.e. >95%) young that are the same variant as they are. In the end you have to decide what the purpose is when you label something as "pure". Is the purpose to demonstrate that whoever buys your shrimp should end up with 100% offspring that are the same variant as their parents, or is the purpose to let the buyer know that the colony has been bred as a particular variant and not crossed with other variants? I think "line bred" and the use of F numbers covers the first purpose, whereas "pure" is much more suited to the second.

Bing bing bing!! And we have a winner!! Well done perplex, I'll be in contact with you shortly to arrange your prize. Well done and thanks everyone for participating. For those that didn't win, try out our other comp this weekend. Apparently its much easier to win?! Here is the official answer And here is the same shrimplet in the same spot when the camera was on a slightly different angle and zoomed in.

wtf lol yay!

Oh c'mon Perplex, winner of two comps in two days.

Hahaha, wow, it still took me a while to find that even in the 2nd photo! Next time please can you use a less-hallucination-inducing rock as a background? :)

Congratulations you've won a genchem white pellet. Please pm me your details. I will wait until the competition is over to forward all winners on to the sponsor \.

Ah, of course @jayc, thanks, I knew about the potassium but forgot. I just assumed all the other elements would be in the brighty K instead of the green brighty. Anyway, I like the dispensing system (easier than measuring out 5 different bottles in medicine cups) and my plants grow really well (although it appears my parameters have gone haywire recently so perhaps I should refrain from commenting)!

I'm using Green Brighty Step 3 (brown), which is the fertiliser and Brighty K which is clear and I assume*, the trace elements required for the fertiliser to work efficiently. For a new tank, the Green Brighty step 1 is used, followed by step 2 after a few months. *The difficulty is, there are no ingredients and no words on the packaging to indicate what you're adding to the tank. It seems logical to me that Green Brighty has nitrates in it but for all I know I could be pouring pale ale in my tank.

I've been using the ADA ferts on my tank for over a year now. They remain a mystery to me.

Top of the class on mendelian genetics. The likelihood of the recessive phenotype appearing is reduced after 3 but it's never completely eliminated.

Really nice shrimp and set-up mate. looks super clean and healthy, well done.

Looking great dude! I'm so jelly of your pure blue bolt section!

Section 3 I have sold most of the tibees & tatibees and tatibee mischlings. I want to concentrate on the pintos. I did realise how many shrimplets and juvies were hiding case it still seems like i have a lot. My red rili are also doing well. Will have to start culling some soon.

Ok update for section 2. My dreams of a tank full of Blue Bolts is coming true. So far every shrimplet born in this section is a BB. Oh yeah my chocolates are doing quite well too.

Thanks for the reminder @buck. Ok update section 1. I have culled most of the second shrimplets from my second generation to hatch in this section. The 1 or 2 of the 6 berried females have started hatching shrimplets. Also bought my self another stud male i will miss my left kidney but my doctor told you can live with one. Ok hope you enjoy the pictures. my new stud, best by far. one of the best females, there is one or two better but they did want to pose. Contemplating getting a tank for them. you can see some of the new shrimplets. Happy BUCK!??!

you guys are blind.... so easy

Basically fish TB is a bacterial infection in humans that comes from a bacteria that infect fish (the technical term is zoonosis). As Bob said, a common sign of this disease is a sore on your hand that wont go away, and most peoples infections do not progress beyond this. However there have been cases in the UK and the US where people have lost limbs due to the infection, but this is extremely rare. The infection is carried by fish and aquarists come into contact with the bacteria when they put their hands in the tank during maintainence. Its even possible to get mouth infections if you suck start your hoses when siphoning out your tanks. You can avoid getting the infection by following simple hygiene such as washing your hands after touching your fish tanks or coming into contact with the water in your fish tanks, avoiding suck starting hoses, wearing gloves during maintainence, not putting your hands in the tank if you have open sores or other wounds, ect. Given this disease appears to come from fish only, this may be another reason to go with that shrimp only tank you've been dreaming of! With a proper diagnosis, fish TB is generally readily treated with antibiotics. However most common antibiotics used to treat infections often don't treat this bacteria, so the right antibiotic has to be used. So if you have a wound that won't heal, remind your doctor that you keep fish and asked to be tested for fish TB. As Bob also said, this is something to be aware of but not to freak out over.